These are nice portraits.
I've used paper negatives almost exclusively for the last decade. Some thoughts:
Contrast can be excessive in daylight (landscape) images, due to paper's UV/blue sensitivity, combined with multigrade paper's high-contrast emulsion being blue sensitive. You can either use a yellow filter to reduce contrast, or shoot graded paper. I use grade 2 paper, so I don't have to use a filter.
Tonal range is 19th century, orthochromatic-like. Flesh tones will appear darker than with panchromatic emulsions. Hence the use of white face makeup in early B/W cinema.
Preflashing of the paper, prior to the in-camera exposure, can also improve tonal range, especially helping to increase shadow detail without blowing highlights, helping to control excess contrast in daylight exposures. My preflash exposure is enough to turn an otherwise unexposed sheet of paper slightly light gray upon developing.
Contact printing RC paper negatives results in good images, the paper's texture doesn't show through, like some have claimed. I think the problem here is people repeat what they've heard, without trying it out for themselves. Using fiber-based paper as negatives will result in paper texture showing, however.
Paper's Exposure Index: I used to rate grade 2 Freestyle RC paper somewhere between 3 and 6; then I began more controlled testing, and found that with freshly mixed Ilford Universal Paper Developer, diluted 1:15, maintained at a temperature of 68f (treating it more controlled, like one would do with film negatives), I can claim a working Exposure Index of 12. I've since gotten into the habit of treating my paper developer more like "one-shot plus", meaning that I can get away with several negatives, but must ensure the temperature maintains near 68f, and I get consistent results.
"If your eye is clear, your whole body will be full of light"
Inventor of the Light Pipe Array
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