Struggling to finish a roll of 36 exposure

[bwidjaja]

Hope this is the right forum to ask.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again. I have shot both 35mm and MF. As I am only occasionally shooting on the evenings or weekends, many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

[feenej]

I tried different lengths of film and found that 24 frames is best for general purpose, for me.

[sepiareverb]

Get an ND filter? I like Fuji Pro 400H and will throw an ND filter on the lens to keep shooting regardless of the light.

Reloads aren't terrible with one of the metal tail pullers. Just a note on the cassette of how far to skip when you reload and a good enough memory to be sure the lens cap is on when you reload.

[mervynyan]

vote for option 2 for 35mm, different backs for MF.

[thegman]

Personally I just tend to finish off the roll if I'm nearish the end, I bracket a bit, and maybe shoot a few things I wouldn't otherwise. Or of course, get 24 exposure rolls, but if you're not developing yourself, I'm not sure of the economy of doing that.

[Roger Hicks]

Use the last few frames for experiments: crazy angles, how long can you hand-hold for, macro... Force ypurself to finish the roll. Generally works for me.

Cheers,

R.

[Steve Bellayr]

I use 24 exposures except with Neopan 1600 which is only available in 36 exposures. The other problem you will run into is having B&W film in the camera when now you want Color. The solution is to have 2 cameras of the same model. I know that this sounds expensive but look at it this way. If, like me, you use fixed lenses then you probably have several lenses for one camera. If that camera goes down then what?

[Keith]

I rarely use anything more than 24 exposure rolls for this reason ... I start to get very bored towards the end of a 36 exposure roll and tend to get wasteful to finish it off!

Perhaps I should get some 256mb cards for the M8?

[robbeiflex]

I am also fairly new to shooting film, and have recently switched to rolls of 24 exposures. It's faster to get through a roll and they are easier to handle if you develop them yourself. Also, although I recently bought an assortment of film in different speeds it seems I'm using up the ISO 400s faster then the others. To me this speed has a decent trade-off between grain and versatility if you combine it with an f/2 or faster lens and a fast body, for example a CV Bessa with its 1/2000 speed.

[Leigh Youdale]

Originally Posted by bwidjaja

many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

I think we've all had this problem. Things that help me deal with it are:-

1. Many great photographers of the past only used one film type. They probably missed some shots they would have liked to get because of that, but it IS possible to select (say) Tri-X or HP5+ or XP2 and use it exclusively - yes, work within the limitations.

2. I often use two bodies (with the same M-mount). If travelling I have colour in one and B&W in the other. Otherwise, because one body has great WA viewfinder frames and the other is more standard lens framed I use the same B&W film in each.
But that's not really necessary - I just happen to like using 25mm and 15mm lenses and most regular RF's don't go wider than 28mm. I do have accessory viewfinders that allow me to swap and use all the lenses on either camera regardless of the frame lines, but it's more about convenience and quickness to use two bodies. It's much easier to carry just one body and a couple of lenses in a pocket or small bag.

3. I find my photography gets a bit aimless and spasmodic if I don't have a project to work on. If I'm just wandering around looking for "shots" I seem to find few that I can be bothered taking. If, on the other hand I have a project with a subject and I'm trying to create a small collection or "body of work" around that subject then I find I get much more focussed and plan my outings much better. And some shots, whilst not competition winners, are still perfectly useable and contribute to a collection rather than having to be "knock-your-socks-off" images in their own right.

[Philly]

Originally Posted by Roger Hicks

Use the last few frames for experiments: crazy angles, how long can you hand-hold for, macro...

Coffee cups on tables seems to be popular...or get a cat.

[ferider]

Change mid-film, 2nd body or ND filter - that's what I do, anyways.

[Ducky]

Originally Posted by bwidjaja

I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again..

Fairly new? Why not start from scratch with one film. It would help if you processed your own as well. Using one film helps eliminate distraction of choice which can really stop you cold if you let it.

More info would have helped us help you better (processing, camera, color/bw, etc).

[filmfan]

This is EASY.
I just rewind the film, leaving the leader out. Note the frame # on the film where it was last shot at, and then when you want to use that specific film again, you shoot through the frames with a lens cap on until you arrive at the noted frame. Easy. I do this all the time.

[bwidjaja]

Hi all, thanks for the input and suggestions. I think i will try to narrow down film selection to at least 1 B&W and 1 Color. Right now I am leaning to XP2 unless i can start self development. For color, I am going to try some slides before deciding on one.

Ducky, i just noticed that you are in Dallas area. Actually i took a film photography class in a community college to get access to the dark room. But I always seem to be busy during the lab open hour. So maybe you can show me self development at home...

[coelacanth]

I have several bodies with film loaded all the time, but most of them are b/w at 1600, some 400 & 3200 (use 4x ND filter to reduce the speed when needed), maybe one color.

I do what filmfan said all the time as well, although I have no problem finishing a 36 exp roll. When I need to empty the camera for servicing, checking something, or quickly do some testing done without opening a new roll, I rewind film with the leader out. Make sure you don't do this multiple times and know that your camera won't bent/damage the leader part too much.

[Bob Michaels]

Why is there some obligation to use film to the end of the roll? Film is about the cheapest part of photography. And that is without regard to if you process it yourself or have someone else do it for you.

[Silva Lining]

I develop my own, and though I don;t normally have too many problems finishing a roll (My two kids can be willing models ) I'll occasionally just remove the film if I've taken say 24-30 exposures, especially if I really need to use an alternative film...

[filmfan]

Originally Posted by bwidjaja

Hi all, thanks for the input and suggestions. I think i will try to narrow down film selection to at least 1 B&W and 1 Color.

No. Just rewind the film with the leader out. Probably the simplest solution to the simplest problem.

[ChrisPlatt]

I too prefer to buy film in 24 exposure rolls for the same reasons mentioned here.

Chris

[peterm1]

One of the reasons I enjoy shooting more digital is just this.

I cannot recall how many times I either had a roll of film developed with half of it still unused or I took multiple crap images just to finish it off so I could get it developed. I did the calculations and found that probably every good image I used cost me about $10 after accounting for film cost, developing cost and the negatives I threw away because they did not turn out well enough or because I used them up on "nothing" images just for the sake of finishing the roll.

I do now keep one film roll on the go in whatever is my current favorite film camera and am willing to leave it in the camerra till it is eventually all exposed - the main problem with this strategy being that I iwll oftne forget what type of film it is and its speed, so I still run the risk of losing some images.

[pakeha]

Originally Posted by bwidjaja

Hope this is the right forum to ask.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again. I have shot both 35mm and MF. As I am only occasionally shooting on the evenings or weekends, many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

No to the highlight - once you start your own development, experiment to find `your' preferred film.
regards,
CW

[DNG]

I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).

[coelacanth]

Originally Posted by DNG

I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).

I'm using 5x7 and shooting 35 frames on a 36 exp. roll. (I can't find binder that can hold 10 6x7 shots though. )

[jmcd]

I use one body per lighting condition, mainly one for overcast and one for contrast with shadows. Into these I load just what I want to shoot, usually 15 frames that load up quickly and good to the last frame thanks to my Bobinquick bulk loaders. I do this is because I like to shoot the roll, develop, and proof soon after shooting, and tailoring exposure and development of the film rolls to the lighting conditions makes for more satisfying printing.

Two rolls of 15 fit nicely on an 8x10 proof sheet.