FSU Lenses on the Nikon Rangefinder

[Brian Sweeney]

My rule of thumb for adapting the Helios-103, Menopta 53/1.8, and J-8 5cm F2 to the Nikon RF: undo the set screw and back out 1/2 turn. Tighten Set Screws. On the Helios-103 and Menopta, two set screws are used so you do not even need to tap out new ones. For the J-3, I custom shim the lens using a TTL viewer.

Menopta:

Distance shot, F4:

Center

Far edge:


Bright Background:



Menopta close-up and wide-open.

Tight Crop:


Another close-up and Wide-Open:

Tight Crop:

[Brian Sweeney]

Industar 61L/D, converted to Nikon S-Mount using a J-8 mount. The mount from a Collapsible 5cm f2 Sonnar also works.
At F4:

Tight Crop:

[Brian Sweeney]

Helios-103 53/1.8, wide-open.

Tight Crop:



Helios-103, F4

Tight Crop:

[Brian Sweeney]

And Infinity Shots, Helios-103 wide-open

And at F4:

[Santafecino]

Brian--
I almost missed this thread. These lenses are remarkable, especially for the money they cost. If I were shooting Nikons I would definitely try them out. Do you have any pictures with a shimmed J-3 or J-8 on the Nikon?
Thanks,
--Lindsay

[Brian Sweeney]

These are with a "hacked" J-3 5cm F1.5, made using a 1958 lens with a 1974 front element. I shimmed it for the Nikon RF's.



The J-3 itself came out soft, but the Bokeh came out very smooth.



I've tested it at F1.5, at the end of a roll. And somehow forgot to stop it down for any of the shots... It's a nice portrait lens for the Nikon, smoother than the Nikkors. But not as sharp.

[Phantomas]

Thanks for the tests. Interesting to see. I was wondering myself if it's worth using the lens off my Kiev on the S3 sometimes, instead of 1.4 Nikkor for a couple of shots, but never bothered so far.
Which film did you use for these shots?

[Brian Sweeney]

Film- I switch between Kodacolor 200 and Kodacolor 400. Used to pick up Fujicolor at Ritz when they were open. Kodacolor 400 is cheap at BJ's, and Kodacolor 200 is cheap at Walmart.

[Proteus617]

Brian; Is it possible to adapt wide FSU glass to the Nikon mount? Should one bother, or does the different register make not a hill of beans difference at 35mm? have an S on my workbench and was thinking about selling it. If I could use a J12 on it, I might re-consider.

[Brian Sweeney]

I shimmed a late Black J-12 for the Nikon. Read element unscrews, then front module comes out with a spanner. You should see a shim under it. Thicken the shim to move it out ~0.4mm. I would check the focus on the Nikon, with the Shutter set to "T" and film strip with tape (or something) at the film plane. Also make sure the lens moumts easily. The Black J-12 required some of the chrome collar over the mount to be filed down. it comes off with three set screws.