What's Best Way To Cut Negatives?

[robklurfield]

I got a cute little old Spiratone film cutter on eBay for about $15. Only accommodates 135 film, but it's illuminated. I used scissors for years and did a lousy job. When I started processing my own stuff again last year, I realized that I'm doing a worse job now than before so decided to be a pussy as Frank so delicately put it.

Recently when preparing to process and spooling some CMS 20, which doesn't seem suspectible to tearing by hand, I snuck a sharp-pointed scissors (that was what was nearest by; too lazy to leave the room to get some safe ones) into my changing bag to try to cut the stuff midstream. Not recommended, as I damn near sliced off one of my clumsy digits.

I probably shouldn't be allowed to even own scissors. And, apparently, I'm not alone. Funny blog entry here about chefs and kitchen accidents.

http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/1...-battle-scars/

For example: "Watch out for big carrots: Mark Ladner (Del Posto, New York) explaining how he lost a bit of finger while slicing and dicing." And, that is not a cheap restaurant.

[notraces]

Scissors. Just scissors.

[robert blu]

Wow, the interesting thing is that I am discovering that what I found a problem for me and i was shaming mysel f admit and confess it, is a problem for someone else as well !
I never consider what MartinP suggest, to consider and mark the eight perforation. I'll try next time ! it is interesting always to learn something new !| Grazie, thanks
robert

[damien.murphy]

Originally Posted by Keith

Cheap kitchen scissors over the top of something white for me ... I think the long bladed type definitely make the job easier. One decisive 'snip!'

+1. I've not cut through a frame yet, but Murphy's law dictates this record probably won't stand for long

[jburgie]

I think you hit on a very common problem that most shooters don't want to admit to. The fact is, the spacing between negatives is usually way too small. Even if they're cut precisely, they don't seem to sit in the enlarger's negative holder correctly if you're trying to print one on the end -- especially if your film has a bad curl to it. And as for the suggested cutting devices, most of these involve more film handling, never a good thing. Besides, they're all out of production anyway, or will be soon.

[filmfan]

Personally, I use scissors.

[FrozenInTime]

Originally Posted by jburgie

I think you hit on a very common problem that most shooters don't want to admit to. The fact is, the spacing between negatives is usually way too small.

Completely agree - I would love to have my cameras adjusted so there were larger spaces between frames.
I use a glass neg carrier to get round the problem - but it's difficult keep it dust free.

[kdemas]

I've been working with some TX @3200, very dark settings, and it's been VERY tough to identify the spaces between frames in some cases. I think the advice regarding some thin scissors is a good one.

[Tom A]

Best scissors I found was in "notions" store in Chicago. This is a place that sells supplies to seamstresses and embroidery fanatics. Blades are just long enough to cut in one go - narrow enough that you can see the "cut-line". Bought three pairs - somehow lost two and I am defending the last pair with my life. They are also spring-loaded so you have less "sticky" effect when you cut tape for loading. I think they were made in Finland.
As for sprocket spacing - it is possible to adjust the sprocket wheel - but it is a bit tedious as you have to test any adjustment. I abhor having to cut across the sprockets!!! Hangs up when you stick them in file pages and drives the scanner nuts too.
If you really want liberal spacing - get a Nikon S with the 24x34 filmgate - you can write captions between the negs!

[Erik van Straten]

Get a good binocular loupe. Any reasonable scissors will work OK when you really see what you are doing. Look through the loupe against the light and watch the cut the scissors make carefully.

Erik.

[FrozenInTime]

Swiss Army knife scissors

I see there's even a Leica version now:


I use a larger one.
Perhaps we could have a custom version -
with longer scissor blades and the bottle opener at the other end of the fold from normal.
So in the darkroom the film cassette opener and scissors can be open at the same time.

Is there scope here for a new thread : design a perfect Leica camera repair and film developing swiss army knife ?

[Edward C. Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by Tom A

I think they were made in Finland.

They were probably from Fiskars.

As for sprocket spacing - it is possible to adjust the sprocket wheel - but it is a bit tedious as you have to test any adjustment. I abhor having to cut across the sprockets!!!

Ideally 35mm Motion pictures would provide a good role model. None of the 35mm cine formats including the original full aperture (18.67x24.92mm) ever cut through the perforations--- quite different from 16mm or Super 16.
The problem with still 35mm is that one did not need to standardize and so every camera has a different location for the advance sprockets. The relation of perforations to frame widely varies among different cameras--- only the advance (8 sprocket holes) and the normative aperture (24x36mm) remains constant. Lacking the ability to adjust the advance one has no way to standardize on a particular frameline offset. A positioning rig--- where the perforations hold the film in position--- would need to be constructed for each camera--- if at all. Using such a scheme its 4 holes per half-frame, 6 holes per 24x24, 8 holes for 24x36 and 10 or 12 for panoramic.

[Haigh]

I use small scissors. I rest one hand on the table to help precision.

[Tom A]

Actually remembered to check who made the small scissors I use. They are made by "Fiskars" in Finland. I think they cost me something like $7-8 each. High quality stainless steel - stays sharp to and just long enough blades to cut in one go across 35mm film.
The spring loaded handles are a bonus as film can twist and jam (Tech Pan/Agfa Scopix) and this way they pop back on their own.

[tlitody]

scissors and they are handy for stabbing anyone who walks in the darkroom when they shouldn't.

[DNG]

Originally Posted by Keith

Cheap kitchen scissors over the top of something white for me ... I think the long bladed type definitely make the job easier. One decisive 'snip!'

Originally Posted by damien.murphy

+1. I've not cut through a frame yet, but Murphy's law dictates this record probably won't stand for long

+1
I just bought a 3" pair at the sewing area of the store. I thought about the longer ones...But, the blades are [thicker] and more difficult to see a frame edge as you line them up... The 3"-4" size have thinner blades, and is easier to see the frame edge just before the single cut.

[Edward C. Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by Tom A

Actually remembered to check who made the small scissors I use. They are made by "Fiskars" in Finland.

They make good modern mass market scissors--- way too light, not terribly balanced but robust and inexpensive. I think Fiskars are the top selling brand these days.

Here is their current line-up: Fiskars sewing scissors

P.S.: Since William Whitely of Sheffield are said to currently make Thomas Wikinson shears they might be a place to look for a cut above Fiskars.

[Tom A]

Mine are "Easy Action" - but not Titanium Nitrided ones. A bit of overkill for cutting negs!!!
Inflation has played havoc with the prices - now they are $17 instead of $8. On the other hand - you will need one pair for the rest of your life!

[35mmdelux]

Using care and NOT after drinking a cuba libre.

[tlitody]

that's it. I'm going to slit my throat. I can't stand it any more. I'm spending my life on a forum discussing the best tool for cutting film into strips and its the hottest thread......................

[DNG]

Originally Posted by tlitody

that's it. I'm going to slit my throat. I can't stand it any more. I'm spending my life on a forum discussing the best tool for cutting film into strips and its the hottest thread......................

Can you believe this.
About Scissors to cut negatives

It is something us Film developers need to do, however mundane it may be

[Richard G]

I use the tiny one finger-loop scissors that hide away in the indispensable Swiss Army Card, but never do it except on a light box.

[Ragnar58]

I stole a "personal paper cutter" from my wife. It is a small (4" blade) guillotine type paper cutter for an office desk to cut off the short end of an envelope. I set it on the light box to line up the center of the between-the-frame area. Before I used it I checked the surface for any burrs or sharp edges to prevent scratches. It gives a nice, clean 90 degree cut and works well because I don't end up cutting too close to the frame.

[Colin Corneau]

Light sabre.

[healyzh]

Originally Posted by FA Limited

http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/fc-mmf.html

i use one of these. freakin expensive but no mistakes
i put it on top of my 4x5 light table and works perfect

Oh, now that is nice! I want!

With the URL, I thought it was going to lead to one of the ViewMaster cutters (those go for big bucks last I saw). Of course then you'd have little film chips (~72 from a 36-exp roll).

Back when I was shooting a lot of Realist format 3D, I used a StereoRealist film cutter. It worked good for 35mm. The link you provided is really attractive to me since it does both 35mm and 120.