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Nikkor 5cm 1.4. To file or not to file?
Old 04-18-2009   #1
Krosya
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Nikkor 5cm 1.4. To file or not to file?

I recently got me a Nikkor 5cm 1.4 LTM lens. As you know it can be modified to couple with later m-bodies to focus down to .7m, by filing down a section of the mount with the tread on it. I really do like the idea of closer coupled focus.
Question is - should i do it?
Yes, there is a chance I'll screw it up. But based on what I have seen in Roland's old post - its pretty straight forward job. Yet, there is always that - "what if?".
Also, what will it do to the value of the lens?
Any thoughts? I wonder if many people that have this lens had this done?
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serial number?
Old 04-18-2009   #2
sp9107
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serial number?

what is the serial number on the lens?
is it a Japan or Tokyo?

jim
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Old 04-18-2009   #3
Brian Sweeney
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You want to be EXTREMELY careful about getting filings into the helical. I had that happen to a J-8, and it was miserable. I might do this with a Nikkor 5cm f2- but I got it for $50.

I found an easy way to make a J-3 focus closer, to 0.75m~0.8m or so. One that I was sent recently had the stop-screw missing from the helical. The lens focusses closer than 1m and a little farther than infinity. The advantage on the J-3: remove the helical from the mount and then file it down. Clean it, and then remount the helical.
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Old 04-18-2009   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp9107 View Post
what is the serial number on the lens?
is it a Japan or Tokyo?

jim
I'm not sure why this would make a difference? It's Japan.
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Old 04-18-2009   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney View Post
You want to be EXTREMELY careful about getting filings into the helical. I had that happen to a J-8, and it was miserable. I might do this with a Nikkor 5cm f2- but I got it for $50.

I found an easy way to make a J-3 focus closer, to 0.75m~0.8m or so. One that I was sent recently had the stop-screw missing from the helical. The lens focusses closer than 1m and a little farther than infinity. The advantage on the J-3: remove the helical from the mount and then file it down. Clean it, and then remount the helical.
Whats the best way to make sure that mounting thread will be intact after filing, so lens still will mount Ok? - any special technique?
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Old 04-18-2009   #6
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I HAD to file the cam down on a CZJ Sonnar in LTM, the focus was way off and the optics module was frozen in the helical....

So, I stuffed as much paper into the area as possible to keep filings out, and used a rubber band around the RF cam and up against the helical threads. After filing, flood cleaned the residuals out with Ronsonol. I filed as gently as possible and it took a lot of time. But it did work. I thought about putting a layer of grease on it, but then the filings would just stick to it. If you could not get the grease off easily, the filings would be left in place. With the Nikkor, you can remove the optics module- but can't easily get the helical out of the mount. File slowly, and flush it out. I "chickened out" and did not do my nice LTM Nikkors.

Last edited by Brian Sweeney : 04-18-2009 at 18:27.
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Old 04-18-2009   #7
hans voralberg
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I filed it, using it just fine now. I first line it with cling film (food wrap) then tissue then file away, blowing the metal dust away every 30 sec or so.
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Old 04-19-2009   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans voralberg View Post
I filed it, using it just fine now. I first line it with cling film (food wrap) then tissue then file away, blowing the metal dust away every 30 sec or so.
Any way you could post a photo of your final result - what that area looks like, that you had to file down?
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Old 04-19-2009   #9
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NOTICE: This is a horrendous job and I know it, it might induce heart attack if you love one of these lens. It works though. The SMALLER filed position is the correct one. Don't ask me why I filed away a whole chunk of it before realizing it's the wrong place.





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Last edited by hans voralberg : 04-19-2009 at 01:47.
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Old 04-19-2009   #10
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Oh - good - you fixed it. !
Now, your smaller cutout looks like it's the wrong position, based on what Roland posted. Your larger cut out seems to be the correct one. Yet you say its the other way around. Could you clarify, pls?
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Old 04-19-2009   #11
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Uhm I can't remember what Roland's looks like. When I look at it through the back of my M3 the smaller cut is where the rangefinder cam meet the lens helicoid.
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Old 04-19-2009   #12
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none of the photo's are showing up for me, get a 404 error.

For the cut-out position- have you tried putting the lens in the M-Adapter that you plan on using? Set the Nikkor to 0.7m and eyeball the position.
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Old 04-19-2009   #13
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Well, I did it! Took me all of 30 min, and most of it was to cover the helicoid threads. Filing was easy, yet one has to be careful. Works great at the end! I went with a different approach - I made mine look like an M-mount cutout - works like a charm and looks nice I think. My cutout is at the same location as Roland's and your larger one. Well, here are the pics - just freshly done:








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Old 04-19-2009   #14
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Lovely work! Have fun with it. I might need to check mine though because while it obviously move the focus patch until 0.7m at the wrong position the lens seems to front focus.
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Old 04-19-2009   #15
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That looks really good. We'll have to start a thread with "closer than 0.9m in LTM".

BTW: Add one point for the FSU cameras with "fingers" instead of rollers. My Zorki 3M can follow the modified J-3 and my LTM Nikkor 5cm f2 in much closer than the Roller based cameras. No filing required. The narrow RF follower makes it possible. "My Opinion" is that the FSU designers intended that as a feature. Some of the J-8's focus closer than what a roller-based pick up can do.
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Old 04-19-2009   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans voralberg View Post
Lovely work! Have fun with it. I might need to check mine though because while it obviously move the focus patch until 0.7m at the wrong position the lens seems to front focus.
Thanks,
Now as far as yours goes - I assume you had your M3 adjusted to focus from 0.7m? Cause usually they focus from 1m. Also, I think it can only fit at "right" position, as lens will only go on one way, so cam will only hit it in one spot. Maybe you need to take a closer look at yours?
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Old 04-19-2009   #17
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Not sure if this is the reason but I'm using a 35-135 adapter not the 50, I'll try with the 50 tomorrow. And yes my M3 was adjusted to focus to 0.7m by CRR Luton. In any case I might not messed up that bad hehe.

BTW, does this lens has the Sonnar focus shift ? I'm not sure the focusing problem I have wide open is shift or front-focus.
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Old 04-19-2009   #18
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I dont think it matters which adapter you use other than what framelines it'll trigger.
As far as Sonnar focus shift - I dont know from personal experience as I just got this lens a few days ago. But I'd expect it to have at least some of it.

PS. My LTM->M adapter is Leica 13.5cm
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Old 04-19-2009   #19
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Which is the same adapter, most strange. Huhm I will send it in to check when I go to HK next week then.
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Old 04-19-2009   #20
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The Nikkor 5cm F1.4 was optimized for F1.4 and close-up. I've got a test of it done in '91 by Pop photo. Interesting results, probably explained by the shift. F1.4 did better than F2, but by F4 all settles down. But, you have to enlarge quite a bit to see it.

In real life, it's never been a problem for me. I've used them for a long time.
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Old 04-19-2009   #21
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Great job, Krosya !

You sure have noticed already, but if you leave the bracket off you loose the 1m "bump". No other function put pushing a little ball into the helical.

For anybody new to this: mark the location where you need to file with the M/LTM adapter on.

Cheers,

Roland.
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Old 04-19-2009   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney View Post
The Nikkor 5cm F1.4 was optimized for F1.4 and close-up. I've got a test of it done in '91 by Pop photo. Interesting results, probably explained by the shift. F1.4 did better than F2, but by F4 all settles down. But, you have to enlarge quite a bit to see it.

In real life, it's never been a problem for me. I've used them for a long time.
Brian, do you have a scan of the article that you could put up?

Also, anyone has a link to the Nikon site for this lens? Do they have a page similar to Canon Camera Museum ?

I cannot wait to try out this lens.
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Old 04-19-2009   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naruto View Post
Brian, do you have a scan of the article that you could put up?

Also, anyone has a link to the Nikon site for this lens? Do they have a page similar to Canon Camera Museum ?

I cannot wait to try out this lens.
Plenty of data on your lens, Ashwin :

http://ferider.smugmug.com/gallery/2196270_eVajg

Cheers,

Roland.
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Old 04-19-2009   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferider View Post
Plenty of data on your lens, Ashwin :

http://ferider.smugmug.com/gallery/2196270_eVajg

Cheers,

Roland.
Thanks Roland.

what's the size of the lens? I assume it's close to the Canon 50/1.5 in length? I am looking for a camera bag that will carry the M6TTL w/the canon or nikkor and some rolls of film.
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Old 04-19-2009   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naruto View Post
Thanks Roland.

what's the size of the lens? I assume it's close to the Canon 50/1.5 in length? I am looking for a camera bag that will carry the M6TTL w/the canon or nikkor and some rolls of film.
It's tiny. Just a little bigger than the Canon. A little shorter than your DR Summicron. 43mm filter size. See the M3/Barnack photo in the gallery. The original hood reverses.

Cheers,

Roland.
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