Okay! You've convinced me!

[DRabbit]

I'm going to try my hand at my own developing! (aren't you proud? LOL)

So here's my shopping list:

Atomic digital wall clock (it's cheap) with indoor temperature reading.

1 quart storage containers (2)
Chem measuring cups
Changing bag (small?)

Paterson 35mm Tank and Reel
Diafine (concentrate, makes 1 Gallon)
Kodak Rapid Fixer (1 Gallon)
Photo Flo

Clips

Archival negative sleeves

I'll get gloves locally as needed

What am I missing?


Also, where do I get an old roll of film to practice with? It doesn't seem right to ruin a perfectly good roll of film

And also, I'd like to hear more about the method of cutting the lead off and getting the reel started BEFORE going to the changing bag... do I still have to remove the film from the canister once inside the changing bag, or can I just cut it when I get to the end? I'm trying to minimize my fumbling around until I get better at the whole process.

[dof]

Some exposed film!

Everybody has their favorite or must-have items, but your list looks like it should get you started.

All the best with your first efforts!

[steelydam]

Don't really need any fancy clock/timer just to develop. I do see you mention it has a temperature gauge, but I think you will need a thermometer you can actually stick in your developer. It's not a big deal to cut off the leader with scissors in a changing bag, it's what I've always done. I don't find a need for gloves for developing, nothing that you'll come into contact with if you're careful. And even if you do, just rinse 'em off in water. Have fun - once you get a system all dialed in, it's pretty easy and very rewarding.

[david.elliott]

I'm in the same boat as you - as you know from reading my thread.

I am sure you likely have most of this lying around your home...

Probably want a binder to go with your negative sleeves. Bottle opener for the film canisters. Couple funnels to make pouring stuff easier. Distilled water. Scissors. Masking tape to label your containers so you dont mix batch A with batch B! Safety goggles?

I dont know if we need graduated cylinders for accurate measurements of fixer or developer?

And is a squeegee necessary / recommended or is just using our fingers on the negatives okay?

Edit: Dont think you need a thermometer for diafine. So long as everything is equal temperature and around 70 - 85 degrees from what I have read, you're fine.

[Gradskater]

I just started developing my own film about a month or so ago, and the best thing to do is to just try it! After your first roll you will know if you need this or that, or if you need to change your process.

I don't have a changing bag, I just sit in the bathroom (no windows) with the lights off, pop the film canister top off with a can opener, start reeling the film, and cut it off at the end. takes all of 3 minutes if I do it quickly.

For processing, I use diafine, no timer (just keep an eye on the clock, and agitate every minute or so for 4 minutes), no thermometer, arista fixer, and some photoflo at the end. squeegee the film off, hang it up, and wait for it to dry. cut the negs, scan them, and put them into negative sheets in a binder. thats it. haven't had a bad roll yet. good luck!

[BTMarcais]

some kind of hypo-clear (perma wash, etc)... not strictly necessary... but will make a huge difference in how long you have to wash your film...
-Brian

[marke]

I've never heard of cutting the leader before going into the changing bag, but I suppose you could do that. I often change film in mid-reel by rewinding just enough so that you still have the leader hanging out of the film canister. I suppose you could use that same procedure for developing.

First, grab an old-fashioned can opener to pop off the recessed end of the film canister, but do it in the bag. Then pull/drop the film out of the opened end of the canister. Cut the leader off just past the tapered leader section, so you have a straight end to feed into your reel. I'll bet that you find it much easier that you imagine. I first learned about 35 years ago in high school on an automatic plastic reel. But that Christmas, my dad went to a photographer friend of his to get suggestions on buying equipment for my own. I quickl;y re-learned how to do it on stainless steel reels. When I returned to souping my own last year (after a 25 year hiatus), I picked up a plastic automatic reel, but quickly wnt back to the ss reels. I know some people still like the plastic one, but for me there is no comparison. I can load the ss reels quicker than the plastic, they are eaier to clean, and they require considerably less chemicals than plastic reels and tanks.

One thing for sure, you're in for some real fun now!

Originally Posted by DRabbit

And also, I'd like to hear more about the method of cutting the lead off and getting the reel started BEFORE going to the changing bag... do I still have to remove the film from the canister once inside the changing bag, or can I just cut it when I get to the end? I'm trying to minimize my fumbling around until I get better at the whole process.

[marke]

Originally Posted by david.elliott

And is a squeegee necessary / recommended or is just using our fingers on the negatives okay?

I've tried a clean, new squeegee, and I've tried my fingers. Everytime I would get scratches. Not bad, but they would always show up. I never squeegee anymore, and I never have scratches.

[DRabbit]

I plan on getting distilled water locally. I use that for mixing the chemicals, but do I need it for the rinse between B and fixer? Does PhotoFlo get mixed ahead of time? If not, can I use tap water there?

What is Hypo-clear?

I was planning to squeegee with fingers (a method I saw in some YouTube tutorials).

The measuring containers were so cheap it seemed silly not to get them.

[David William White]

Originally Posted by DRabbit

I'm going to try my hand at my own developing! (aren't you proud? LOL)

So here's my shopping list:

Atomic digital wall clock (it's cheap) with indoor temperature reading.

1 quart storage containers (2)
Chem measuring cups
Changing bag (small?)

Paterson 35mm Tank and Reel
Diafine (concentrate, makes 1 Gallon)
Kodak Rapid Fixer (1 Gallon)
Photo Flo

Clips

Archival negative sleeves

I'll get gloves locally as needed

What am I missing?


Also, where do I get an old roll of film to practice with? It doesn't seem right to ruin a perfectly good roll of film

And also, I'd like to hear more about the method of cutting the lead off and getting the reel started BEFORE going to the changing bag... do I still have to remove the film from the canister once inside the changing bag, or can I just cut it when I get to the end? I'm trying to minimize my fumbling around until I get better at the whole process.

Great to hear!

So believe me, wasting a fresh roll practicing loading your reel is the best investment you'll ever make. Do it over and over just in your lap in the light, then with your eyes closed, then in a dark room, then a few times inside your changing bag BEFORE doing an exposed roll.

Story Time: In my college class, we all went into the darkroom to load our reels after practicing in the classroom. The lights went off, and we started loading for real. The lights couldn't come on until everyone said they were loaded. Took 20 minutes.

Yes, you can just snip the film from the cartridge instead of opening it up. Also, rolls of 24 load faster and easier than 36. Start there.

Think about how you will hang your film to dry before you pull from the final rinse! Often I'm in weird, makeshift places, holding my arm over my head and yelling at someone to get me a clothes peg or trying to rig a coathanger over a doorframe with one hand or something similarly stupid.

If you get really stuck and you have real important film that won't go onto a reel -- know that it doesn't have to. Film just needs to be submerged in developer for x minutes to develop. Reels are neat and tidy and fit nicely inside those inversion tanks, but aren't strictly necessary in an emergency. You can go into a dark room at night, or under a dark blanket and develop in an open bowl if need be. Reels and tanks were invented long after roll film was.

Another story: Once, the tape holding the end of my film to the spool gave way and my film could not be rewound back into the cartridge. I went into a closet with a black baggie and unloaded my camera inside the baggie. I then mixed up some developer and poured it into the baggie and gave it a gentle shake every minute or so, then rinsed and fixed. Great negatives.

So off you go!

[DRabbit]

Good input about drying David... I do have a plan though. I'm going to do nearly everything in my master bathroom (small). I have a new toilet hutch (or whatever it's called) that actually has an empty spot on top where I can keep some of my supplies, and it's rather empty in the cabinet under my sink to keep the chemicals. I'm going to hang a couple of hooks from the ceiling inside the shower stall (that has a glass door) and that will be my "drying cabinet".

[dfoo]

I recommend to keep the first try at developing really simple. No hypo clear, no stop (other than water). Use Tri-X and D76 with some kodak (or ilford) rapid fix. Here is an outline.

- Mix up D76 powder.
- Put D76 stock in jug, add equal amount of water to make 375 ml (if developing a single roll). Put thermometer in jug. If < 20C put in hot water, if > 20C put in cold water.
- Put film on reel.
- Put reel in tank.
- When D76 is around 20C, pour in developing tank. Start timer.
- Invert back and forth for 30 seconds.
- For the next 9:30 invert 5 times each 30s. Give the tank a couple of bangs on the counter after you are done inverting.
- At 10 minutes dump out the dev. Put in water. Shake for 30 seconds, dump.
- Add fixer, and shake for 30s. Bang on counter.
- Leave film for 5 minutes.
- Save fix back in bottle.
- Wash film. fill container, shake 5 times, dump. fill container, shake 10 times dump. Fill container, shake 20 times dump. Fill container, shake 40 times dump.
- You are done. Dry film in the bathroom for 2-3 hours. Cut & Sleeve.

[DRabbit]

DFoo... appreciate the advice and I'll have this thread saved for the future... to start though, I've already decided to use Diafine (advice from another thread), cause it seems the easiest to start with. I'll be using Arista Premium 400 (ei at 800-1250) or Arista Premium 100 (ei at 200-400).

[dfoo]

Diafine is fine, except you don't really have any control over the developing process (that is you cannot push and pull the results, you get what you get). When using diafine you can use whatever EI you like actually (within reason). You don't need to use such a high EI (it can be a pain during the day).

[DRabbit]

Dfoo,

Yes, I've been reading about it. I know there's limited control in the developing and it actually gives a "flatter" (less contrasty) result, but since I'll be scanning all my negatives, that's probably a good thing (a little more leeway in photoshop). I will never build a darkroom and do wet prints, so it's likely my workflow will always be to scan and print on my inkjet or send out to a place like WHCC or Shutterfly.

I also like that I can use different EIs on one roll of film. I've looked around here and around the net and seen comparisons of the same shot at different EIs using both 400 and 100 film developed in Diafine, and the results are interesting. I'll be interested to try it out myself.

If I stick with developing and really like it then I'll get into trying different developers that are time and temp sensitive. I just want it to be easy to start

[Drewus]

The equipment I use is pretty basic. You really don't need to spend a lot just to develop some film.

I use a basic egg timer for my developing time. I don't use gloves (no need if you handle the film by the edges). My measuring container is just a glass orange juice jug, and I drew some measurement indicators on the side.

[Drewus]

Also, I just use regular tap water but i do a quick rinse with wetting agent (Ilford) right before I hang them up to dry. If you use wetting agent it really doesn't matter what quality water you use.

[drewbarb]

Ha! You're easy- one thread and less than 24 hours, and we've converted you.

Seriously, Amy, I think this is great. It seems like you've got your head on right about this; I hope you have fun. Diafine, and those films at those speeds, and your expectations of density and results all sound like good plans to me- you've done your homework. I'll bet pretty quickly you'll get results good enough that you may not bother with other processes for a while- but I do suggest you process a couple of test rolls (or even cut partial rolls, as marke suggests) with no important, one-of-a-kind images first, just in case. Also, practice opening the film can, cutting or tearing the leader off, and putting it on the reel with any old junk roll of (otherwise garbage) film. When you can get this on the reel in the dark with no trouble, you're ready to spool up and process your test film.

Distilled water for your chemistry is a good idea (especially so with mixing Diafine and other two part developers), though your rinse and washes should be fine with tap water If you use a perma wash/hypo clear/fix remover, I'd start off mixing that with distilled water, too (though I use tap for these now- but I know my water). Photoflo or similar wetting agent is probably better with distilled, too.

Let us know how it goes!

[Bingley]

Originally Posted by marke

I've tried a clean, new squeegee, and I've tried my fingers. Everytime I would get scratches. Not bad, but they would always show up. I never squeegee anymore, and I never have scratches.

Squeegee? Been there, done that, never again! Here's what I do (learned from reading threads here, then tried it out and it works!):

After the final rinse (in distilled water), I plop the reel in a small container of water w/ photoflo or similar. Then I turn on the shower in the bathroom (I develop film in a bathroom), and let the water run hot for a couple of minutes, to build up humidity. I then take the film off the reel, hang, weight the bottom, and I do not touch it until it is completely dry (usually overnight). No scratches, minimal dust, works like a charm.

[Bingley]

Originally Posted by DRabbit

I'm going to try my hand at my own developing! (aren't you proud? LOL)

So here's my shopping list:

Atomic digital wall clock (it's cheap) with indoor temperature reading.

1 quart storage containers (2)
Chem measuring cups
Changing bag (small?)

Paterson 35mm Tank and Reel
Diafine (concentrate, makes 1 Gallon)
Kodak Rapid Fixer (1 Gallon)
Photo Flo

Clips

Archival negative sleeves

I'll get gloves locally as needed

What am I missing?


Also, where do I get an old roll of film to practice with? It doesn't seem right to ruin a perfectly good roll of film

And also, I'd like to hear more about the method of cutting the lead off and getting the reel started BEFORE going to the changing bag... do I still have to remove the film from the canister once inside the changing bag, or can I just cut it when I get to the end? I'm trying to minimize my fumbling around until I get better at the whole process.

Are you using a two-reel Patterson tank? Get a second reel. Use it even if you're only developing one reel of film at a time.

I started w/ Diafine, too. Very easy! Great way to start. I quickly found, however, that I wanted to develop film at box speed or a little slower, so I've switched over to Rodinal for the time being. But part of the fun of it all is experimenting w/ film/developer combos until you find one that really works for you.

[mcgrattan]

Diafine is nice and easy to start with, although, for me, it does weird things to the midtones on some films [but not others].

With 35mm, some of my cameras leave the leader out, so those I sometimes trim before I put them in the changing bag, and then just load directly from the cartridge and snip at the end. I find a timer fairly helpful, but I just use the timer function on my mobile phone as it's easy and cheap.

re: agitation, everyone has their own method. The 5 times every 30 seconds method suggested above would be WAY WAY WAY more agitation than I'd ever use with any film or developer. I tend to go with agitating with three or four inversions a minute. I've found diafine sometimes requires a little more agitation than I'd use with other developers to avoid bromide drag.

I squeegee with my fingers dipped in the tank with the rinse/water. I've never had scratches that way. I've had terrible scratches using an actual plastic/rubber squeegee, though.

I just use normal clothes pegs for hanging the film.

Good luck!

[dfoo]

I don't want to come off as some sort of authority on developing film, because I'm not. However, although it might be WAY WAY WAY more agitation that you'd ever use, 5-7 inversions in 5 seconds is Kodak's recommendation each 30s, and that's what I've used for most of the time I've been developing film. I did use at one point 5 each 60s for a short while, but I found the negatives lacked contrast.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...bs/aj3/aj3.pdf

[fixbones]

DRabbit,

I am a beginner myself and intend to develop my own film sometime in the future. This thread is GOLD!!!
Can i ask what do u intend to do with the processed film? Do you have a scanner of some sort?

Ferraby

[DRabbit]

Thanks everyone... you have all been so helpful. If Larky hadn't said what he said in my other thread about processing, I would never have considered all this, so thanks to him too!

I've ordered my supplies! I wish I had a reel to practice with NOW so I could be ready when it all gets here. I may have to drive out to a camera store I know up about 30 minutes away to see if they've got one

Steve - I think the tank I got is the smallest and only holds one reel. The description says it takes a single 35mm reel.

Ferraby - I'm going to be scanning my processed film. I saw a blog recently - http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03...iafine-and-tx/ - that talks about Diafine and TX film pretty extensively, especially in regards to scanning. Not everyone here might agree with everything he says, but I found the info helpful (and even more encouraging). He also happens to say that TX is usable with an EI of 400-1250/1600 when using Diafine, which will be fun to experiment with.

I bought a dedicated negative scanner. I ended up with the Plustek 7300 as it seemed a good balance of features, quality and price for me. I've seen some really nice results from it and it should give me the ability to get a good scan at a decent resolution. Unfortuantely, I had started off buying the 7200 not realizing it wasn't Mac-compatible, so I had to return it and buy the 7300.

[dazedgonebye]

It's a dangerous road you travel.
I started with a tank that would hold 2-35mm rolls or 1-120 roll. Then it became frustrating to only be able to develop 1-120 roll at a time, so I got a tank that could handle 2-120 rolls. Then I got a tank that could handle 12 4x5 sheets, but I only had one spool and it got frustrating to only be able to develop 6 4x5 sheets at a time. Now I've got a second spool for that tank too.
I've got a tank in the garage that can be used for developing 1 8x10 print. I'm staying the hell away from that thing.