| Tom Abrahamsson of RapidWinder.com It is almost never that an inventor improves on a Leica product so that it is better than the original Leica product. Tom holds that distinction with his RapidWinder for Leica M rangefinders -- a bottom mounting baseplate trigger advance. In addition Tom manufacturers other Leica accessories such as his very popular Soft Release and MiniSoftRelease shutter releases. Tom is well known as one of the true Leica rangefinder experts, even by Leica.
IMPORTANT READ THIS: CWE Forum hosts have moderation powers within their forum. Please observe copyright laws by not copying and posting their material elsewhere without permission. |
 |
Summarit Disassembly- Help Needed. |
 |
03-14-2009
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
Summarit Disassembly- Help Needed.
I'm surprised by how little information is available on taking this lens apart. I am doing a "hacking Project", and have been supplied a Summarit-M for the experiment. I need to remove the Optics Module from the Focus Mount. It seems like it should "just unscrew", but I'm not willing to force it as there might be a hidden trick. Just removing the three set screws below the aperture ring allow the whole module to rotate, allowing indexing of the F-Stop ring.
The front group DID unscrew, and at least I cleaned the heavy haze out of it.
I would appreciate some help and Tips on this-
Thanks,
Brian
|
|
|
|
03-14-2009
|
#2
|
|
RFF Sponsor
Tom A is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 5,088
|
Brian, I have never ventured to take a Summarit apart! If at all possible, I tend to leave lenses to people like you and others who know how.
I will check around for information and if I can find it - pass it on to you.
I have a friend locally who does things like that. Also check with "Vic" on the Nikon site. He takes things like Nikkor 50f1.1's apart!
Last edited by Tom A : 03-14-2009 at 18:04.
|
|
|
|
03-14-2009
|
#3
|
|
Go Fish
MikeL is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,108
|
Hi Brian,
I don't know if you saw this, but I left you a post in this thread: clean a summilux
I inserted a pin in a hole covered by a side screw until it engaged. Then I could twist them apart.
Let me know if you have any trouble,
Mike
|
|
|
|
03-14-2009
|
#4
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
Justin- Thankyou for Summilux info!
Mike- the notes of the differences with the Summarit will be much appreciated.
I've ordered a book that is supposed to cover the Summarit.
Tom- appreciate the help.
I'll follow-up with the results. Mike points out that the Summarit is different from the Summilux, the optics head needs an extra trick to unscrew.
Last edited by Brian Sweeney : 03-14-2009 at 19:08.
|
|
|
|
03-14-2009
|
#5
|
|
Go Fish
MikeL is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,108
|
Hi Brain,
After removing the three ring screws you'll be able to rotate the optics mount freely. Then, insert a pin in the hole and rotate the optics mount until the pin enters the hole in the focus mount ring. In the second photo you can see the whole in the focus mount ring that you'll need to engage.

|
|
|
|
03-14-2009
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
That was going to by my 419th guess as to how to do it.
Right after breaking out the LASER tip for the Dremel....
Thankyou!
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#7
|
|
Registered User
Ricko of Fla is offline
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 67
|
when you are finished, you need to sent the lens to a pro and have redone.
__________________
I likea Leica
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#8
|
|
Go Fish
MikeL is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,108
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricko of Fla
when you are finished, you need to sent the lens to a pro and have redone.
|
Ricko, Brian is a pro.
But thanks for the helpful post. Nice work.
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
Well Ricko, this one did quite well after I finished with it.
It did not work out for a conversion for a Carl Zeiss Opton Sonnar. It can be used for a pre-war Sonnar conversion. Now a Pro machine shop might have been able to bore out the parts of the barrel that got in the way. I did not go that far.
As it was, I opened up the glass, cleaned out the haze, tested it, and sent it to its owner overseas.
I'm not a Pro camera repairman. I'm a Pro FORTRAN programmer. But I did have several optical engineers that worked for me.
This Summarit after cleaning the haze out of the surfaces on each side of the Aperture mechanism.
Not bad for a $200 Leitz lens. The front element had a lot of cleaning marks. But the internal haze was the real killer.
Last edited by Brian Sweeney : 07-03-2009 at 09:53.
|
|
|
|
 |
Wow, I'm amazed. |
 |
07-03-2009
|
#10
|
|
Registered User
Vickko is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canada
Age: 53
Posts: 2,363
|
Wow, I'm amazed.
I would never have guessed.
Vick
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeL
Hi Brain,
After removing the three ring screws you'll be able to rotate the optics mount freely. Then, insert a pin in the hole and rotate the optics mount until the pin enters the hole in the focus mount ring. In the second photo you can see the whole in the focus mount ring that you'll need to engage.

|
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
As a sidenote, not all pro repairshops can handle these old lenses and you need to find someone that can work on the "old stuff".
I had a Wartime CZJ SOnnar sent to me AFTER it had been worked on by a professional shop. You think they would have tightened up the retaining rings on the optics before reassembling it.
http://ziforums.com/showthread.php?t=120
The other great thing about being an amateur repairman- making offers on stuff that people send you AFTER fixing it and providing test results.
The lens worked better after undoing the previous repair. That took longer than just repairing it.
And I get to try the conversion again. I have a $20 Parts Summarit heading my way.
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#12
|
|
modern vintage
digitalintrigue is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,264
|
Indeed. Many of the cameras I paint have had untold numbers of unqualified repair people tear them up inside (and sometimes outside.) And some of these people are pros... 
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#13
|
|
modern vintage
digitalintrigue is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,264
|
Brian, the Summarit-M that is en route, you'll find easy to take apart. 
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#14
|
|
packin' light
buzzardkid is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Assen, The Netherlands
Age: 42
Posts: 6,854
|
Brian, OT:
did you post a remark on some other thread last week, saying a 90mm collapsible Elmar was easy to clean yourself, since the lens is a boasted 50mm optical design?
I received a 90mm collapsible with some haze on the front element and like to clean it myself if it turns out it can be done easily. Any tips on how to proceed are greatly appreciated!
__________________
Cheers, Johan
Leica II (1932), Elmars 50 & 135, Heliar 50: the nickel kit
Leica II (1942), Minifinder, Canon 28, W-Nikkor 35, Elmar 90: the chrome kit
Ricoh GXR Monochrom
Visit johanniels.com!
|
|
|
|
07-03-2009
|
#15
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
I'm building up a collection of 50mm Focus Mounts, lenses with Bad Glass.
The Nikkor 5cm F2 focus mount will work well with a CZJ Sonnar 5cm F2, wartime, pre-war, and probably post-war. The Summarit Mount coming in will end up being an M-Mount CZJ Sonnar.
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
07-03-2009
|
#16
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
Collapsible 9cm Elmar: I did not photograph this procedure, but it only took a few minutes.
1) Remove the Name Ring using a rubber grommet, like that used to pass wiring and cables from a project box. Check the electrical section of an appliance store.
2) Under the name ring is the retaining ring for the front element. It has two holes in it for a spanner. I used a stiff set of needle nosed pliers to undo it. Front element comes off, giving access to the surfaces on each side of the aperture. That's where the haze usually accumulates.
From an old post, made right after I did mine:
YES: I just did this. I used as rubber grommet to take off the name ring. The black rim surrounding the front element holds down the name ring. Once it is off, you will see the two holes for the retaining ring for the front element. I used the needle-nosed pliers seen on my Avatar(edit: changed my Avatar!). Spread apart, they fit the two holes on each side of the lens element. The front element is pressed into place on this metal ring. It comes out as an assembly. Once out, I used ammonia based eyeglass cleaner on it, and the inner surface behind the aperture blades.. No need to go deeper, that did the trick for my lens. Open the aperture blades up all the way when opening the lens.
Last edited by Brian Sweeney : 07-03-2009 at 10:31.
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
 |
07-03-2009
|
#17
|
|
packin' light
buzzardkid is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Assen, The Netherlands
Age: 42
Posts: 6,854
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney
Collapsible 9cm Elmar: I did not photograph this procedure, but it only took a few minutes.
1) Remove the Name Ring using a rubber grommet, like that used to pass wiring and cables from a project box. Check the electrical section of an appliance store.
2) Under the name ring is the retaining ring for the front element. It has two holes in it for a spanner. I used a stiff set of needle nosed pliers to undo it. Front element comes off, giving access to the surfaces on each side of the aperture. That's where the haze usually accumulates.
|
Thanks Brian,
sounds real easy, piece of cake. I will proceed with this in the morning. Bedtime now.
__________________
Cheers, Johan
Leica II (1932), Elmars 50 & 135, Heliar 50: the nickel kit
Leica II (1942), Minifinder, Canon 28, W-Nikkor 35, Elmar 90: the chrome kit
Ricoh GXR Monochrom
Visit johanniels.com!
|
|
|
|
 |
08-04-2009
|
#18
|
|
Registered User
irishimage is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ireland
Posts: 11
|
Hello Brian,
You mentioned in a previous post you had a $20, Summarit lens coming your way..
Dont know if your just using the bayonet fitting and scraping the rest.. but if so i'd be very interested in buying the screws from you.
Its a long story but i have a pretty good ,glass wise that is,Summarit screwmount with some of the screws missing from it and although its in working order,aperture ring is adjustable with only one pin screw in place,would be nice to have the complete set to finish it off.
Noel
__________________
M3 DS 70****.
IIIC IIIG IIIF
Leicaflex SL
R4
R4s
V-LUX 1
|
|
|
|
 |
Aperture ring... |
 |
11-12-2009
|
#19
|
|
Registered User
alexandre.mur is offline
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
|
Aperture ring...
Hi! I disassembled my summarit, including the aperture ring, because there was no "clicks".
Well, I basically removed the three screws ON the aperture ring. Two of them are quite long, and I can't manage to get them back in!  They go on partially, but when I try to screw them, it blocks, even if I perfectly align the arrow with the maximal aperture (diaphragm is fully opened).
The third screw I removed has a small bearing ball inside. Isn't there an other part meant to be there so that it clicks? If yes, how is it shaped?
Thanks a lot in advance for any reply.
|
|
|
|
11-12-2009
|
#20
|
|
Dad Photographer
raid is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 21,727
|
Having a Sumamrit lens shell would be awesome. The J-3 looks wimpy when compared with a Summarit.
|
|
|
|
11-12-2009
|
#21
|
|
Registered User
hans voralberg is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Birmingham, UK & Hochiminh, Vietnam
Posts: 2,065
|
If I remember correctly the last time I open up my Summarit, that little ball click into a "hole" in the lens body? Try lifting the ring up see if you can figure out where to align the screws
__________________
Bodies: Leica IIIf - Leica M3 SS - M6 Classic - M6 Black TTL - M8 - VC Bessa R2M
Lens: VC Skopar 21/4 II - VC Skopar 35/2.5 - Summar 50/2 - Summicron DR 50/2 - Elmar 50/3.5 pre-war uncoated - Summarit 50/1.5 - Summitar 50/2 - VC Heliar 50/2 - Nikkor S.C 50/1.4 - Canon LTM 50/1.2 - Nikkor P.C 85/2
My Flickr
|
|
|
|
11-12-2009
|
#22
|
|
Registered User
Brian Sweeney is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 15,160
|
Sent a PM to Alex. Looking at my parts lens, the screws from the aperture ring go through slots to an inner ring. If that ring has moved, the screws will hang-up. Easiest solution seems to be to unscrew the front optics module to expose the mechanism.
|
|
|
|
11-12-2009
|
#23
|
|
Go Fish
MikeL is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,108
|
alexandre, it sounds like you are missing the spring that pushes the ball-bearing in to the detents.
|
|
|
|
11-13-2009
|
#24
|
|
Registered User
alexandre.mur is offline
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
|
Thanks a lot everyone! For the spring, it will soon be ok, by disassembling the lens I managed to understand the clicking mechanism, and all will soon be working perfectly.
Haze... any advice on how to clean it? 
|
|
|
|
11-13-2009
|
#25
|
|
Registered User
alexandre.mur is offline
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
|
Have a look at this strangely circular shaped haze just behind the diaphragm... Do you think it is easily cleanable without damaging the lens? How? I am scared by the aperture blades around it...
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:19. |
|
|