| 120 RF Folders 120/220 Format Folding Rangefinders, including the various classic Zeiss Ikontas, Voigtlander Bessas, and their Ruskie copies. |
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Elementary Bessa Folder Question |
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07-30-2008
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#1
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semper ubi sub ubi
Fausto is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Harlem, NYC
Posts: 72
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Elementary Bessa Folder Question
I know, I only speak up when I have a problem!
My first folder showed up this morning, a Bessa. First 6x9, oldest camera yet (I think - the Leica II might be as old but it needs extensive repair)
I would try shooting with it today except that after opening and admiring it, I DON"T KNOW HOW TO CLOSE IT!!!
So while I'm scouring the web for instructions, if anybody wants to help out, it will be much appreciated! 
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07-30-2008
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#2
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semper ubi sub ubi
Fausto is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Harlem, NYC
Posts: 72
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Clarification - this is the rangefinder Bessa, postwar I think.
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07-30-2008
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#3
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Registered User
Chris B is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 22
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Just push upward on the struts closest to the camera body.
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07-30-2008
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#4
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semper ubi sub ubi
Fausto is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Harlem, NYC
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris B
Just push upward on the struts closest to the camera body.
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The short bottom strut moves and releases the cover but the long top strut is not moving & looks like it will bend....
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07-30-2008
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#5
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Lemon magnet
fidget is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Northern England
Posts: 1,418
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And press the button on the plate underneath the lens front to unlock the lens plate. For mine I press this button and lift the round shaped strut, it all collapses from there.
__________________
(Almost) Too many cameras.
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07-30-2008
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#6
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semper ubi sub ubi
Fausto is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Harlem, NYC
Posts: 72
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The camera is variously referred to as Bessa, Bessa RF, Bessa E; it is apparently almost identical to the Bessa II but with separate view & rangefinders instead of the II's combined ones. Anyway there is a metal tab or key next to the lens which must be depressed in order to collapse the bellows. Moving the struts is not a good thing to do.
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07-30-2008
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#7
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Analog Preferred
Solinar is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,057
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On my Bessa II - I always set the lens back to the infinity position before closing the front platform. Does anyone else do this? Does it matter?
__________________
- Andrew in Austin, Texas -
35mm Gear Bessa R, Leica II, - IIIf RD/ST, - IIIg, - M3
Medium Format Fuji GW 690III / Minolta Autocord
MF Folders Agfa Record III and Super Isolette / Voigtlander Perkeo II and Bessa II
Digital a D300 with a some primes
"Who spilled the Dektol on the bathroom carpet?"
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07-30-2008
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#8
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foo was here
chippy is offline
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solinar
On my Bessa II - I always set the lens back to the infinity position before closing the front platform. Does anyone else do this? Does it matter?
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hi Andrew in Texas....
i dont think it matters at all with the Bessa RF or the Bessa II.
actually its one thing is good about the bessa's. On occassion i use the rangefinder and set the distance before opening it for a quick snap shot so to speak. it closes no matter what the distance is. different to what you would be used to with a Super Isolette of course where the focus must be set to infinty before closing and the Weltur auto moves to infinity upon closing in contrast
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07-31-2008
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#9
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Analog Preferred
Solinar is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,057
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That's what I thought, but Super Isolette and Retina IIIc habits are difficult to shake off.
By the way, while the folks down under are enjoying their winter, it is has been getting to 38 degrees C almost every afternoon here in Texas. We call it a 100 to 102 degrees.
__________________
- Andrew in Austin, Texas -
35mm Gear Bessa R, Leica II, - IIIf RD/ST, - IIIg, - M3
Medium Format Fuji GW 690III / Minolta Autocord
MF Folders Agfa Record III and Super Isolette / Voigtlander Perkeo II and Bessa II
Digital a D300 with a some primes
"Who spilled the Dektol on the bathroom carpet?"
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07-31-2008
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#10
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foo was here
chippy is offline
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solinar
That's what I thought, but Super Isolette and Retina IIIc habits are difficult to shake off.
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yeah i thought that would of been the cause...same thing happens to me when i've been using a camera with auto frame lock/double exposure prevention and then go back to red window counter cameras...i double expose and skip a frame for a while until i get in the habit again. btw all the retinas (including the pre-war) have that need to set to infinity before being able to close..for me i find it a real pain in the .......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solinar
By the way, while the folks down under are enjoying their winter, it is has been getting to 38 degrees C almost every afternoon here in Texas. We call it a 100 to 102 degrees.
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we sure are shivering here, bloody freezin! for us anyway..getting down to 1-2 degrees C at night...i know how you feel with days over a hundred (we used to use that system yonks ago and some people still metion it when it gets to a 100). our last summer was a shocker...no rain at all for months and we had at least 2 weeks consecutive days up around 38-40-43, even a few 45 sheeze. luckly no bad fires though. i heard you had some very serious ones over there but they may not be near you i guess
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08-11-2008
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#11
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Registered User
FallisPhoto is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto
The short bottom strut moves and releases the cover but the long top strut is not moving & looks like it will bend....
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That's because you were given the instructions for closing a Bessa I instead of a Bessa II. There is a tab under the lens, where the front standard meets the rails; use that to release the standard and collapse the bellows. Just push the front standard and bellows back into the camera. THEN close the front of the camera.
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08-11-2008
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#12
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Dave
Argenticien is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC, USA
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FallisPhoto
There is a tab under the lens, where the front standard meets the rails; use that...
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Can I trouble any of you who actually own this beast, to post a picture pointing out that magic tab on the camera? I'm going to be potentially facing the same "new to Bessa RF" issues in a few days when mine arrives, and really don't want to bend any crucial bits. (Note my other thread in this forum about inability to find any documentation for this old model, so you can't just reply, "RTFM!!"  )
Cheers,
Dave
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08-11-2008
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#13
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Registered User
FallisPhoto is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argenticien
Can I trouble any of you who actually own this beast, to post a picture pointing out that magic tab on the camera? I'm going to be potentially facing the same "new to Bessa RF" issues in a few days when mine arrives, and really don't want to bend any crucial bits. (Note my other thread in this forum about inability to find any documentation for this old model, so you can't just reply, "RTFM!!"  )
Cheers,
Dave
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Here is a photo of a Bessa II with the tab in question indicated: http://fallisphoto.deviantart.com/art/Bessa-2-94558072
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08-11-2008
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#14
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foo was here
chippy is offline
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 802
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Dave the picture FallisPhoto shows is of course the Bessa II but it closes excactly the same as the (your soon to arrive) pre-war black Bessa E (RF) by pressing the tab that FPhoto has shown. However as you will soon find out the the front standard, bellows and lens does not need to first be pushed back into the camera before closing the front (possibly FPhoto was thinking of older cameras). with the bessa E and bessa II this happens all in the one movement by just depressing that tab and closing the front door.
as Fphoto mentions the confusion earlier is because someone was discribing the Bessa I which closes by slight upward pressure to a red circular point in the middle of the struts on each side of the bessa I. A completly different set up to the bessa E and II
the struts that can be bent (on the bessa E and II) if not carefull are those long chrome struts shown in the photo . see how one of them is slightly bent in relation to the other(in the other thread with the picture that abazz shown). sometimes they can be worse (always something i look for in relation to a bessa) and this can be the cause of the front standard and lens not alighning with the film plane correctly and sometime indicates that the front door is loose or wont close as snuggly as it should
Last edited by chippy : 08-11-2008 at 16:05.
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08-11-2008
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#15
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Dave
Argenticien is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC, USA
Posts: 302
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Thanks guys. I see the tab there, and the similar one on the old Bessa RF/Bessa E picture that Abbazz posted. I might have even found that myself by trial and error, but this takes out, er, the error. I'll post a pic somewhere when the machine arrives.
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08-11-2008
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#16
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Registered User
FallisPhoto is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chippy
possibly FPhoto was thinking of older cameras
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Could be. That sort of thing happens when you live with about 100 cameras.
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08-27-2008
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#17
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Registered User
chubasco is offline
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Age: 63
Posts: 286
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I have the same cam or close, pre-war, 1937. Messing with the big long top strut could potentially damage the coupled rangefinder, not a good thing. I don't have an instruction manual for mine, either, but figured the spring-loaded catch under the lens was for closing. Hope you get the cam up and running!
Bill
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