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Black Paint Canon P ...? Who?
Old 06-18-2008   #1
JTK
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Black Paint Canon P ...? Who?

One of my P is crudely engraved, back and bottom. Otherwise, very nice. Might like to give it a CLA and a paint job.

Who does that in the US?

I read somewhere that an epoxy paint was best.

Is this a ridiculous idea?
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Old 06-18-2008   #2
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If you are gonna keep it a long time, why not get it painted and enjoy it every day? Makes sense to me. One of our own members in the USA might be persuaded to to it: http://www.digitalintrigue.net/Welcome.html
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Old 06-18-2008   #3
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Funny, I thought the same and asked the guy if he did Canon Ps. He said he'd never tried it and wasn't sure how complicated it might be. I figured ... eh. I'll leave it.
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Old 07-01-2008   #4
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Funny, I thought the same and asked the guy if he did Canon Ps. He said he'd never tried it and wasn't sure how complicated it might be. I figured ... eh. I'll leave it.

I think you may have slightly misunderstood him. He just said he'd try my Canon L1 and it's just like the Model P in terms of dissasembly (in other words easy). However, he's just a little reluctant to name a price on any camera unless he's actually done one of that make/ model or at least seen one in person. That's very normal for his "profession" or any other contractor/ repairperson.
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Old 07-01-2008   #5
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Is this a ridiculous idea?
No, I don't think so.

OTOH, I own a 1937 Contax III. It has the usual nonfunctional meter lump on top of the camera that, I believe, seriously detracts from the camera's appearance. As a result, I've located a trashed Contax II that is being parted out and have purchased such bits as will allow me to turn my Contax III into a (to my eyes) much more attractive, and user friendly, Contax II.

There are three important considerations here. First, the camera in question, for both of us, is not especially rare. There is no history being destroyed by making these changes. Second, at least in my case, I intend to keep all the origional bits in a package for future reference, Finally, I intend to keep and shoot this camera for the rest of my life. I am as passionate about the Contax series as most memebers of RFF are about Leica so this is not much of a surprise. Given these considerations, I don't consider my alterations to my camera to be "ridiculous". Similarly, I don't think that your alterations need to be that, either.

I hope this is of some help,

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Old 07-02-2008   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill58 View Post
I think you may have slightly misunderstood him. He just said he'd try my Canon L1 and it's just like the Model P in terms of dissasembly (in other words easy). However, he's just a little reluctant to name a price on any camera unless he's actually done one of that make/ model or at least seen one in person. That's very normal for his "profession" or any other contractor/ repairperson.
Yes. I understood it like that, too. I can see how he'd need to see it; but after some due consideration, I decided to leave well enough alone. His work is wonderful, but I'll wait. Maybe later. Maybe not. That's all I meant.
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Old 07-02-2008   #7
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Yes. I understood it like that, too. I can see how he'd need to see it; but after some due consideration, I decided to leave well enough alone. His work is wonderful, but I'll wait. Maybe later. Maybe not. That's all I meant.

I got you...
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Old 08-05-2008   #8
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Is a black paint Canon P worth more? How much more? 10% 20% 30% ... ?
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Old 08-05-2008   #9
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Based on what I have seen on eBay, an authentic black paint P would probably sell for 5 to 10 times as much as a standard chrome model.

This would not apply to repainst, such as the one currently listed on eBay that has nice shiny chrome showing through the worn paint. At least the seller is claiming that it is authentic.
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Old 08-05-2008   #10
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Dexdog's estimate agrees with my thoughts. And experience of "losing" on ebay after posting what I thought was a more than reasonable price for a Black P a few weeks or months back. I think it went for about 2 grand. hmmm... nothing wrong with chrome, I always thought.
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Old 08-05-2008   #11
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Based on what I have seen on eBay, an authentic black paint P would probably sell for 5 to 10 times as much as a standard chrome model.

This would not apply to repainst, such as the one currently listed on eBay that has nice shiny chrome showing through the worn paint. At least the seller is claiming that it is authentic.
Hi Mark,

The ebay seller is saying that it is most likely a black repainted Canon P,so he is being frank about it.

How much more is a repainted P worth as compared to same condition chrome version? I guess, I am after the value of a used repainted P.

Also, how would I go about repainting the flaked off parts of a repainted camera?
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Old 08-05-2008   #12
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This is a price list for Shintaro:

This price is for Leica.
1 $500US just paint on the brass.

I do not paint eyelet's and flame at back door.
It is good for the camera which is mint condition or owner doesn't care about scars.

2 $600US Fix dents or dings then paint on the brass.
I do not paint eyelet's and flame at back door.
It is good for the camera which has dents or dings but has good leather.

3 $700US Fix dents or dings then paint on the brass and change leather
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Old 08-05-2008   #13
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I've found a guy here in Korea, who's as good as Shintaro and will do a paint job for $300
w/ no dent repair. I'm getting my Model P done now in "Army Green." Changing the covering to match paint is $100.
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Old 08-05-2008   #14
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Take a look at these photos of my newly acquired Canon P.
It is rough looking, but still beautiful to me.
What can I do to put some black paint on the areas where the paint has gone ?

The repaint job was done in Japan.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg black p 3.jpg (37.0 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg black p.jpg (27.0 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg black p 2.jpg (32.2 KB, 38 views)
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Old 08-05-2008   #15
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OK, Raid........ what did you pay for it? Touch up? I'd leave it alone. A nick is better than a big glob of touch-up paint, even if you find a sheen match.

BTW--it's sweet!
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Old 08-05-2008   #16
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Bill,

I paid $360 shipped from Japan. The seller states that there are no wrinkles in the shutter curtain. This is a good sign.

Once I see the camera for real, I may love how it looks and keep it as is it.
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Old 08-05-2008   #17
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Quote:
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Bill,

I paid $360 shipped from Japan. The seller states that there are no wrinkles in the shutter curtain. This is a good sign.

Once I see the camera for real, I may love how it looks and keep it as is it.

You got a helluva deal!!!! Congratulations. I'll have $550 in mine when finished.
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Old 08-05-2008   #18
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You got a helluva deal!!!! Congratulations. I'll have $550 in mine when finished.
Bill,
Mine has many paint flaking, so it is not as nice looking as a newly painted one like the camera you will be having.
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Old 08-05-2008   #19
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Bill,
Will your camera be repainted also from inside the back or will it show chrome?
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Old 08-05-2008   #20
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Is that a "TE" in the accessory shoe?
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Old 08-05-2008   #21
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Is that a "TE" in the accessory shoe?
It sure looks like a TE painted over with black.
Is this short for someone's name or is the P an export model or what?
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Old 08-05-2008   #22
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I think you should check with Peter, Raid. He did record three other Ps with similar TE engraving, AFAIK. Probably a rare animal.

Roland.
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Old 08-05-2008   #23
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WOW! These could be good news for me then. Thanks for the tip.I was debating whom to ask about the TE.
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Old 08-05-2008   #24
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I just found mentioning of P cameras with the TE for serial numbers 773,139 and 773,019. My camera has serial number 773,698.

They all start with 773XXX. Is this a coincidence?
Maybe not. This supports that a series of P cameras was assigned the letters TE by some unit.

What Peter has stated is an educated guess. Maybe he is right.

One owner of such a camera bought his TE camera new in Seattle, while mine is used from Japan. Why would someone be able to buy a new TE camera if he is not from "that company" that had the TE engraved?
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Old 08-05-2008   #25
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Hi Raid,
a very nice black P. When it's black over chrome and misses the white dot on the selftimer lever it's a repaint (the camera was chrome originally).
As for the paint flakes, I would look for model paint, available in very small tins in toy shops. At least, I've bought it there in my youth... like these one:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Revell-Color-Emai...mZ350086222828
very good quality repair paint (synthetic resin paint). Probably you need to grind transitions before the paint job carefully with a very small piece of grinding paper, thus roughen the chrome surface for better adhesion of paint.

cheers, Frank
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Old 08-05-2008   #26
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Quote:
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Hi Raid,
a very nice black P. When it's black over chrome and misses the white dot on the selftimer lever it's a repaint (the camera was chrome originally).
As for the paint flakes, I would look for model paint, available in very small tins in toy shops. At least, I've bought it there in my youth... like these one:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Revell-Color-Emai...mZ350086222828
very good quality repair paint (synthetic resin paint). Probably you need to grind transitions before the paint job carefully with a very small piece of grinding paper, thus roughen the chrome surface for better adhesion of paint.

cheers, Frank
I've tried model paint to no avail--most of it is made for plastic, not metal. Maybe you got better results from a different paint.
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Old 08-06-2008   #27
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I would say, avoid acrylic paint. But otherwise, maybe my paint repair bottle for my motorcyle may be also acrylic, because it dries quickly. I never need to repaint one of the repaired spots. Maybe it's a matter of underground. Chrome is a bad underground for any paint.

Anyway I haven't repaired yet any black paint on cameras. My black Rolleiflex SL350 (http://www.taunusreiter.de/Cameras/Rollei350black02.jpg) has three white spots on the prism where the paint has gone. If I had a repair bottle with the right colour and paint thickness just like I have for my motorcycle I would have done it.

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Old 08-06-2008   #28
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Charles Watkins posted this useful suggestion on hot to paint the camera:


Charles Watkins , Aug 05, 2008; 09:49 p.m.

I suppose it depends how much effort you are willing to put into it. To do it right, you would have to go the full mile as John indicates. One (almost secret) ingredient used in the factory like painting process of metal parts is a pre application of a resin catalyst. Secondly, no kind of paint, short of epoxy, at your local hardware store is capable of giving you the desired durability because none of them have the necessary hardening agents added. Any consumer grade spray paint would simply wear off quite easily in a relatively short ammount of time. Shelf paints do not contain hardening agents because once a hardening agent is added to the paint, it must be applied quickly before it cures. You would have to buy the paint and hardening agent seperately and mix them together just prior when you were ready to paint. The air brush suggestion by John would be the right approach. You can buy the hardening agents at your local paint store or auto body paint supplier. Unfortunately, you will not be able to buy them in small quantities for such a small job. I would second the idea of stripping the lever and just leaving it chromed. It would still look quite nice I think. If it is going to be a user camera, try not to fret about the looks. I find it easier to use marred cameras where I don't worry so much about banging them up and think more about taking pictures.
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Old 08-06-2008   #29
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Quote:
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Hi Raid,
a very nice black P. When it's black over chrome and misses the white dot on the selftimer lever it's a repaint (the camera was chrome originally).
As for the paint flakes, I would look for model paint, available in very small tins in toy shops. At least, I've bought it there in my youth... like these one:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Revell-Color-Emai...mZ350086222828
very good quality repair paint (synthetic resin paint). Probably you need to grind transitions before the paint job carefully with a very small piece of grinding paper, thus roughen the chrome surface for better adhesion of paint.

cheers, Frank

Hello Frank,

It is now clear that this camera had the chrome parts painted black. I will go to a hobby store to get suggestions too.
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Canon P TE
Old 08-06-2008   #30
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Canon P TE

I too have a Canon P with the letters "TE" engraved on the accessory shoe. The serial number of my P is 773862. It appears that all of these cameras identified thus far have serial numbers that start with 773xxx. Is anyone aware of any TE Canon P with a different serial number?
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Old 08-06-2008   #31
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But the white dot is a little divot, yes?
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Old 08-06-2008   #32
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I too have a Canon P with the letters "TE" engraved on the accessory shoe. The serial number of my P is 773862. It appears that all of these cameras identified thus far have serial numbers that start with 773xxx. Is anyone aware of any TE Canon P with a different serial number?
We now have these numbers:
In order:

766 168
769 864
771 684

773 019
773 139
773 698
773 862

Four out of seven cameras start with 773.
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Old 08-06-2008   #33
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Although of course the white paint on the self-timer lever can diappear over the time, as far as I know, all original black paint Canon rangefinder cameras with self-timer levers have, as is suggested above, an indent in the lever where the white dot would originally be painted.
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Old 08-06-2008   #34
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Raid, thanks for providing the list of known Canon P cameras with "TE" engraved in the accessory shoe.
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Old 08-12-2008   #35
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My black Canon P arrived today in the mail.
The areas showing where the black paint is gone are not chrome but more champagne in color. Is this what chrome looks like? I compared it with a chrome Canon P. The color are different where it is "chrome".
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Old 08-13-2008   #36
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Since paint does not adhere to chrome, it needs to be "sanded" and then usually a primer applied, Raid. I guess that's what you're looking at.

Pictures?
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Old 08-13-2008   #37
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BTW, in those places where the recessed letters are missing white, microtools sells lacquer sticks that work pretty well for filling in. IF you are so inclined.
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Old 08-13-2008   #38
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Quote:
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One of my P is crudely engraved, back and bottom. Otherwise, very nice. Might like to give it a CLA and a paint job.

Who does that in the US?

I read somewhere that an epoxy paint was best.

Is this a ridiculous idea?
Not in the USA, but the best repaints I have ever seen are done by Shintaro in Japan. Beautiful work, better than the original Leica, Nikon, or Canon rangefinder black paint finishes.

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Old 08-13-2008   #39
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Since paint does not adhere to chrome, it needs to be "sanded" and then usually a primer applied, Raid. I guess that's what you're looking at.

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Jim and Stephen:

The camera was painted black in Japan, but I don't know by whom. Shinatro first removes the chrome and then applies the black paint. In my camera, the paint was applied on the chrome [it seems]. The white lettering looks great and does not need any refilling.






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Old 08-13-2008   #40
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For more details in the photo:

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