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Peter Dechert -- Photographic Equipment Historian Peter Dechert is best known for his Canon Rangefinder, Canon SLR, and Olympus Pen books, the latter two long out-of-print. He was a monthly columnist for many years for SHUTTERBUG magazine, and has contributed to many others. Most recently he has written about the pre-WW2 Zeiss 35mm cameras, but his interests in camera equipment and optics are many and varied. As a pro protographer and honorary life member of ASMP, Peter is also expert in using the gear! IMPORTANT READ THIS: CWE Forum hosts have moderation powers within their forum. Please observe copyright laws by not copying and posting their material elsewhere without permission.

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Old 02-01-2008   #26
sanmich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silva Lining
Looks like you got a great deal there, I paid almost twice this much for a 'mint' example (It was mint too!)

Happy shooting!
Thanks!

I think we are making it a better deal at each contribution...


But hey, I've got mine, You've got yours,....Let the price climb

well ok, let's wait for Tom to have his
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Old 02-01-2008   #27
LeicaTom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raid
My Canon 35mm/1.8 is being cleaned by a professional, so I am looking forward to a better lens returning to me.
Raid,

Who did you send it to? Mine is near mint glass, but the focus ring is stiff

Tom
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Old 02-01-2008   #28
sanmich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeicaTom
Raid,

Who did you send it to? Mine is near mint glass, but the focus ring is stiff

Tom
Tom

Canon lenses are, from the few i had in my hands, usually very easy to re-lube.

My 1.8 was also stiff and it was the first one to get the helicoid cleaned and relubed.

All you need is a spanner wrench and the right grease (I use Lithium automotive grease).

let me know if you want to give it a try. It's fun, too.
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Last edited by sanmich : 02-01-2008 at 01:30.
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Old 02-01-2008   #29
Sonnar2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanmich
Just to make sure: by ghosting you mean those round or aperture-like shaped light spots that appear when the sun is in a corner or just outside the frame?
Yes, plus artefacts coming from internal reflections like this one (the 35/1.5 delivers some strange ghostings...)



as opposed to



Quote:
And by flare you refer to the glow that appear around a strong light source in the picture?
Yes, but it's often just visible as a "haze" in the middle part of the picture, like this one:



I believe this kind of flare is very common with Gaussian wideangle lenses. The Summicron IV-gen 35/2 has exactly the same kind of flare with a bright sky as backlite. For landscapes this can be very annoying. Newer designs like the ASPH.-Summicron 35/2, the ZM-Biogon or UC-Hexanon don't show it (or much less)

Very bad with this kind of flare is the Canon 35/2.8. Opposed to it, the 28/3.5 (designed in the same year 1951 and even looking similar from diagrams) is quite free of it!

To be precise, at f/1.5 sharpness is only present in the very center of the picture with the 35/1.5. But in many cases this is just enough, i.e. when you have a three-dimensional subject and small DOF anyway. Light-loss to the corners can look bad too. You need to think about before using this lens wide open, or to have just good luck. At f/2 it is much better, plus you get nicer bookeh and colors than with the Canon 35/2. From f/2.8 on the Canon 35/1.5 is very strong.

have fun, Frank
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Old 02-01-2008   #30
sanmich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonnar2
Yes, plus artefacts coming from internal reflections like this one (the 35/1.5 delivers some strange ghostings...)



as opposed to





Yes, but it's often just visible as a "haze" in the middle part of the picture, like this one:



I believe this kind of flare is very common with Gaussian wideangle lenses. The Summicron IV-gen 35/2 has exactly the same kind of flare with a bright sky as backlite. For landscapes this can be very annoying. Newer designs like the ASPH.-Summicron 35/2, the ZM-Biogon or UC-Hexanon don't show it (or much less)

Very bad with this kind of flare is the Canon 35/2.8. Opposed to it, the 28/3.5 (designed in the same year 1951 and even looking similar from diagrams) is quite free of it!

To be precise, at f/1.5 sharpness is only present in the very center of the picture with the 35/1.5. But in many cases this is just enough, i.e. when you have a three-dimensional subject and small DOF anyway. Light-loss to the corners can look bad too. You need to think about before using this lens wide open, or to have just good luck. At f/2 it is much better, plus you get nicer bookeh and colors than with the Canon 35/2. From f/2.8 on the Canon 35/1.5 is very strong.

have fun, Frank
Franck

Do you know what made the difference between the two pictures of this cute kid?

Does closing down the aperture reduces flare?
or ghosting?

About the ghosting, maybe a good hood could help?
do you remember if you used one one the first picture?

I have to say that the flare you show on your landscape reminds me of what I had from time to time on my last version summicron-M 50mm. I was so amazed it was from the lens, I was convinced it came from the camera and sent it to DAG (that did a great CLA on it BTW). It appears this lens ('cron-M) allows for some kind of reflection on the inner hood, after the rear lens surface. At a certain angle, with strong light just at the edge, outside the frame, the lens would reflect the light onto the film and get this ugly hot-spot.

I sent the lens to Don and he repainted the hood with a matte paint. So far so good...
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Old 02-01-2008   #31
Sonnar2
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Hi Michael, I remember that I used the W-50 hood on both kid pictures, and with the second one (the third of three), I additionaly take my hand to cover the lens (the W-50 is quite small). Stopped down ghosting was gone.
See it as an excellent f/2.8 lens with 2 stops reserves for special conditions.
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Old 02-02-2008   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonnar2
Raid, in your very nice park portaits I notice some typical background behavior for this "pushed for speed" lens class: unsharp background behind the center and "coming back" to the sharpness area in the corners. That gives an expressive structure but can also be annoying with background of certain structures, i.e. tree twigs, causing "swirly bookeh". Most extreme with vintage Plasmat lenses. Probably this is caused by undercorrected spherical aberration.
What is great on the Canon 35/1.5 in this class is that it is very well corrected for center sharpness and color saturation. It's less "cold" than the Canon 50/1.4. I cannot imagine that the PRE-asph. 35/1.4 Summilux comes out any better.
What I noticed with my lenses: backlight flare of my (very clear) 35/1.5 is well controlled, better than with the 35/1.8 (very light haze) and the 35/2 (clear), much better than the older (chrome) 35/2.8 (which is clear as well).
In contrast (price for extra speed) the 35/1.5 more prone to ghosting than the others if the sun is near to the picture frame. Maybe this corresponds to your light-bulb test behaviour (strong light source). But with real low light, it behaves nicely (as the 50/0.95 too).
At f/2.8 my 35/1.5 beats any other Canon RF lenses in terms of sharpness and contrast. At f/5.6-8 it is more contrasty than the 35/1.8 but not the 35/2. I would take the 35/1.5 as a standard lens with a reserve for high speed. It is big in diameter, but not heavy or protruding. 48mm filter (like the 50/1.4) is good as well. In screwmount it can be beaten only by the UC-Hexanon 35/2, but this is nearly one stop slower and a much younger design.
I think Canon did it very well with their super-fast 35/1.5 in 1958. Universal usability is much better than with the 50/0.95. Consider it's 50 years ago. Yes, it's underrated from a user's view.

have fun, Frank
Hello Frank,

I try not to get attached to any of the borrowed lenses in a lens test. This particular lens I liked a lot for the some of the reasons that you have mkentioned above. I carefully selected the OOF background. This is something that I am used to, as I favor the older lenses anyways.
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Old 02-03-2008   #33
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Six years ago when I joined ebay I stated that the 1.5/35 Canon was my favorite lens, and it probably still is for an all-round 35,but for colour saturation my 2.8/35 Topcor has no equal. Unfortunately although I bought it cheaply here in Australia,
when they do occasionally appear on ebay the vendors usually have stupid buy it now prices. I have several LTM 35's, and one day soon I'll do a comparison of each over three apertures for my own amusement.
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Old 02-03-2008   #34
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the 35mm/ f 2.8 Topcor is one fine lens.
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Old 02-07-2008   #35
Silva Lining
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanmich
Thanks!

I think we are making it a better deal at each contribution...


But hey, I've got mine, You've got yours,....Let the price climb

well ok, let's wait for Tom to have his

Heh!

Well, mines been out for it's first test run, loaded up on a Voigtlander R3M (I used the whole viewfinder as a 35mm frame ) With PanF and Ilford Delta 100, Souped in Ilford DDX and scanned with a Minolta E5400....



MORE HERE

Hopefully, I'll be taking more this weekend...
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