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MP service manual (remove top plate) |
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01-10-2008
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#1
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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MP service manual (remove top plate)
Hi,
I recently bought an M kit and am enjoying it immensely. MP, 28 Elmarit ASPH, 50 Summicron. I bought my demo MP from Adorama and it had dust in the finder. Sent it to Solms, came back clean, and now I see it has one big spec of dust in there, with more to come I am sure. The only way I am going to be able to live with this is to learn how to remove the top plate and use a bulb air blower to get the dust out, then seal the eyepiece myself.
I am mechanically inclined, build computers, have a Ph.D., blah blah, and I'm willing to buy the toolsets required to do the work. I would not attempt such a thing unless I had a detailed service manual, or a web site describing the procedure. I found a site or two but none applying specifically to the MP.
If I can't find anything, I guess I will be sending it back to Leica often!
Any comments most appreciated! 
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01-10-2008
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#2
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Registered User
nobbylon is offline
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nederlands
Posts: 1,857
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didn't Leica change the seal or something to stop this happening. I don't know but perhaps yours is an earlier one without the mod? just a thought before you start doing some DIY!!!!!!!
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01-10-2008
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#3
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Think Different
Mackinaw is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: One hour south of the Mackinaw Bridge
Posts: 1,877
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This is from memory, but I recall reading that, unlike earlier M-series cameras where the eyepiece screws in, the MP rear eyepiece just pops out. Supposedly it's a pretty easy job to remove the eyepiece and re-seal it.
Disclaimer: I never tried this and what I told you is from all the threads that were making the rounds when the MP/dusty viewfinder issue was all the rage. I imagine if you searched the LUG archives you'll find several threads on this. Probably back around 2004 or so, when the MP first came out.
Jim B.
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MP VF dust |
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01-10-2008
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#4
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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MP VF dust
Indeed I have read stuff all over the web regarding this issue. I thought Solms would meticulously clean it, seal it, and it would be done. I can remove the rubber eyepiece, behind which are a few screws to remove and expose the rear optics, but this does not allow access to the front where the big dust bunnies hide.
Must... learn... to take off top plate or keep sending to Leica.
Here's the kit,
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...1&d=1200013271
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01-10-2008
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#5
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Molecular.Atom
Atom is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 171
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I have been looking to remove my top plate as well aka. I'll be wathcing this thread!
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01-10-2008
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#6
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Registered User
Rik is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Netherlands
Age: 51
Posts: 120
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I have disassembled my M2 far beyond the topplate. I will have a look at my MP later today but think that it is similar. You do need some special tools which here in Europe are about the equivalent of 50US$. It is not a very difficult job to do, just have to be careful you dont make any scratches.
I'll come back on this later.
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01-10-2008
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#7
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Registered User
ddutchison is offline
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Posts: 323
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Kim Coxon Posted links to 2 Leica Manuals on this thread :
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=48915
You might want to post a question in RFF's Camera Repair Forum about any differences between the older M"s in these manuals (M2 and M4 IIRC) and your MP. Google Microtools, they sell the required tools.
Good luck, it should be pretty easy with the right tools.
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01-11-2008
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#8
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fallor ergo sum
john neal is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albion
Posts: 1,484
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Akasha,
I have a service manual for earlier bodies, including the M3. I have both M3 and MP (with dust behind the rear eyepiece). Apart from the eyepiece and hotshoe, it looks to me that removal of the topplate on the MP is virtually identical to the M3.
The manual on Kim's site will show you the basics, and i will try to get the relevant parts of mine scanned to post here.
I would appreciate a link to the how-to for removing the rear eyepiece, as i need to do that.
Let us know how you get on.
[edit] I just found this description of how to remove the eyepiece and effect the sealing job (scroll down a few messages). It looks like you don't need to remove the top plate for my problem
http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-...tml?1111735200
Now, where can I get some nice black sealant, and a steady hand?
__________________
Regards,
John
Last edited by john neal : 01-11-2008 at 02:35.
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Be careful remvoing rear eyepiece |
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01-11-2008
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#9
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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Be careful remvoing rear eyepiece
John,
Be careful when removing/cleaning the rear eyepiece. That is what got me into trouble the first time before sending it to Solms. I had a couple of dust specs behind the rear eyepiece. Removed it, blew softly with a rubber bulb, and all the dust and more ended up in the front and inaccessible at that point.
Thank you all for the discussion, let's keep it going. I am going to be ordering some micro tools shortly in anticipation.
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removal of MP top plate status |
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01-11-2008
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#10
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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removal of MP top plate status
Hi,
After reading the M2 service manuals posted here, it seems like removing the wind lever is no problem (with proper flexiclamp tool, anyone know the correct size); removing the shutter speed knob looks easy (1 screw); hot shoe similarly easy; but two remaining things look difficult, one is removing the rewind knob (spanner wrench in two red holes?), and removing the flash PC socket (tool unknown).
When I checked micro tools I found a tool kit for the specific purpose of removing M top plates - unfortunately the kit is back ordered!!!!!!!
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/ite...mCode=LF-KIT-C
Reminds me of when I could not get the 28 Elmarit ASPH.
The posts so far have been great, more please!
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01-11-2008
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#11
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modern vintage
digitalintrigue is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,263
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The flash socket can also be removed with a flexiclamp.
Rewind knob: I believe if you pull out the knob and secure the rewind fork from the inside, turning the knob will loosen it, although you may need a spanner wrench if it's tight.
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01-11-2008
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#12
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DSLR Defector
ocean7 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Montreal, QC
Age: 43
Posts: 215
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If Micro-Tools is back ordered you can have a look at these clamps on e*ay :
http://search.ebay.ca/_W0QQsassZjiozhou
I am sure the quality isn't as nice as the Micro-Tools one but they will do the job. I have a set. Actually if you need it quick I could sell it to you because the project they were intended for aborted. Just PM me if you are interested.
__________________
Philippe
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01-12-2008
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#13
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fallor ergo sum
john neal is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albion
Posts: 1,484
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Akasha,
Thanks for the warning - I used a microfiber cloth first. Amazingly, I thought that the surround was metal, nut plastic, but it does pinch off if you are careful.
The ring wrench for the wind lever should be 16mm
If the rewind knob is like the M3, it should unscrew by hand if you hold the forks inside the body.
PC socket is probably undone with a flexiclamp.
Hope that helps
__________________
Regards,
John
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summary so far |
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01-12-2008
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#14
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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summary so far
So from the information so far in this thread and manuals, to remove the top plate:
1) remove the top screw in the bayonet mount
2) remove the screw where the Leica dot would be
3) remove the screw on shutter speed dial and remove
4) remove PC socket with flexiclamp
5) remove shutter button collar with flexiclamp, remove lever & stuff
6) unscrew rewind knob by stopping rotation of spool underneath, unscrew collar underneath with flexiclamp
Is there anything else? I am still eagerly looking forward to some new information before I actually try this.
I have purchased a set of 6 brass flexiclamps in anticipation.
P.S. There is a small, looks like plastic, cover right behind the shutter speed dial on the top plate of the MP. Is there a screw underneath that that needs to be removed, and how does one remove that small round plastic piece without damaging it?
Thanks to everyone for your continued comments and suggestions!
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link for m disassembly |
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01-12-2008
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#15
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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link for m disassembly
I found this link which is good:
http://www.jumboprawn.net/jesse/cams...-overhaul.html
But it appears I will need a special tool to remove the rewind knob. I have a reasonable idea now how to remove the top plate, except for the rewind knob.
Any further information is, of course, much appreciated.
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01-12-2008
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#16
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Registered User
wontonny is offline
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 286
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by john neal
Akasha,
I have a service manual for earlier bodies, including the M3. I have both M3 and MP (with dust behind the rear eyepiece). Apart from the eyepiece and hotshoe, it looks to me that removal of the topplate on the MP is virtually identical to the M3.
The manual on Kim's site will show you the basics, and i will try to get the relevant parts of mine scanned to post here.
I would appreciate a link to the how-to for removing the rear eyepiece, as i need to do that.
Let us know how you get on.
[edit] I just found this description of how to remove the eyepiece and effect the sealing job (scroll down a few messages). It looks like you don't need to remove the top plate for my problem
http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-...tml?1111735200
Now, where can I get some nice black sealant, and a steady hand?
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is this the same for an M6 TTL?
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Removing MP Rewind Knob |
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01-14-2008
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#17
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Registered User
aka5ha is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
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Removing MP Rewind Knob
Hello All,
I was curious if anyone had additional information concerning removing the rewind knob. Some readings suggest it can be unscrewed by brute force if the film canister couplings underneath are not allowed to rotate, while other readings suggest it must be removed with some kind of spanner wrench or other tool which fits into the two holes to rotate it.
Any additional information appreciated!
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06-24-2008
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#18
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Love vintage Hifi, too!
errorlogin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Darmstadt, Germany
Posts: 207
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Quote:
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Rewind knob: I believe if you pull out the knob and secure the rewind fork from the inside, turning the knob will loosen it, although you may need a spanner wrench if it's tight.
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I cant speak for the MP, I only own a M3:
Í would never do that. It will not work or it will break. It's not build in such a simple way.
To remove the rewind knob, you have to unscrew the screw with the 2 red dots. For doing this, I made a simple tool: Cut off 2 toothsticks that they will fit in the red holes and hold them in your hand with your thumb.
Its very simple and very effective and it will not scratch your camera for 100%! The only thing that could happen is, that a little bit of the red color comes off. To avoid that, file the toothstick smooth with a little sand paper.
The scew comes out the normal way: counterclockwise.  To unscrew you have to hold the rewind fork inside the camera. Mostly it is sufficient to hold it with a finger of your other hand.
You might not be succesfull the first time. When the srew is heavenly in, try another day!
If you will be successfull in unscrewing this screw, you can go on removing with your special clamp tools!
If you own an early M3 with only one red hole, I dont know what to do.
This is by the way a good tool also for other cameras: You can remove top plate of Rollei 35 e.g.without being afraid of srcratching it.
For easier understanding I will attach some pics.
Here we go:
Last edited by errorlogin : 08-01-2009 at 02:47.
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06-24-2008
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#19
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Love vintage Hifi, too!
errorlogin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Darmstadt, Germany
Posts: 207
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I was only allowed to upload 3 photos.
So here is the last:
Could anybody tell me, if the first ring on the lever(the first you have to remove) unscrew counterclockwise or clockwise like the self timer do? Thanks a lot!!
Last edited by errorlogin : 06-24-2008 at 14:44.
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06-24-2008
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#20
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Registered User
lewis44 is offline
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 555
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The rewind knob on most M's has a tiny screw on the outside. If you lift the crank handle as if to rewind and look in the space where the handle rests, you will see the screw. Loosen that (you don't have to remove it) and then hold the film prong inside the camera and unscrew the knob, turning counter clockwise.
__________________
Randy
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06-24-2008
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#21
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Registered User
Vickko is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Canada
Age: 53
Posts: 2,363
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Taking the top deck off is dead simple, but on the M7, be very careful about its static-sensitive electronics. Make sure you are working on an ESD mat.
I've done lots of M's, up to and including the M5, but not M6 nor newer.
As for the shutter dial, the M6 and M7 shutter puzzled me, as it doesn't have the normal screw that holds the dial on, like in the older M's. There might be a cover plate that needs to be carefully lifted, off the shutter dial. Then it becomes tricky, as you might bend it. The Leica service shop will have replacements.
Another item is to remember to hold the RF lever in, when pulling off the top plate, so that it clears the top deck.
Good luck.
Vick
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06-24-2008
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#22
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Love vintage Hifi, too!
errorlogin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Darmstadt, Germany
Posts: 207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewis44
The rewind knob on most M's has a tiny screw on the outside. If you lift the crank handle as if to rewind and look in the space where the handle rests, you will see the screw. Loosen that (you don't have to remove it) and then hold the film prong inside the camera and unscrew the knob, turning counter clockwise.
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Mine doesnt have that screw.
@Vickko:Could you tell me, if the first ring on the lever(shutter release)(the first you have to remove) unscrew counterclockwise or clockwise like the self timer do? Thanks a lot!!
Its maybe a stupid question, but I would like to know before doing anything.
I would like to remove the top plate for seveal reasons.
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06-24-2008
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#23
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Registered User
LChanyungco is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Berlin
Posts: 465
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righty tighty lefty loosey
i just recently bought a set of clamps and a spanner from microtools because of dust phobia... now my m's are dust free. the operation is very simple but quite tedious and time consuming.
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06-24-2008
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#24
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Love vintage Hifi, too!
errorlogin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Darmstadt, Germany
Posts: 207
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Thanks. I will go on with the work later on.
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