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Ilford Delta Pro 100... |
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01-24-2007
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#1
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Don
fishtek is offline
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Location: 07003
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Ilford Delta Pro 100...
Beginning to come to terms with Ilford Delta Pro 100. Cooked with HC-110, 1:7 stock for 6 minutes. Removed purple cast in Elements, dust control there, too. Should I always expect the purple cast with Ilford?
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01-24-2007
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#2
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Registered User
Xmas is offline
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 2,791
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Only if you use a M8...
Seriously dont you tell the scammer it is B&W?
Noel
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For the last 13 months I've only used a Kiev (or Contax), apart from folders, Fed's, Zorki's, M2, etc.,... and a digital to record dismantle sequences...
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Re: purple cast... |
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01-24-2007
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#3
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Don
fishtek is offline
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: 07003
Posts: 511
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Re: purple cast...
Not scanner, the negative strips themselves have a purple tinge. I don't know the characteristics of this particular film, and I'm aware that there are expected differences on the base material. Maybe Ilford's SUPPOSED to be purple????
If not, How do I adjust? HC-110, 1:7 stock, 6 minutes, Arista fixer as instructions, etc...
Regards!
Don
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01-24-2007
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#4
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local man of mystery
kaiyen is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Age: 34
Posts: 2,204
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Ah, the tinge is from the AH layer and, more importantly, the sensitizing dyes which is used across all the new emulsions. The base is almost perfectly clear if washed properly.
As compare to TMAX films, which are famous for their purpose tint that is hard to get out, you can get it out of Delta 100 (which is the one that suffers the most from this) with adequate washing. Just keep washing until it comes out.
For me, since I use permawash, I get rid of it pretty quickly. It starts coming out in the wash between fixes (I use a 2-bath fix, mind you). Then a lot after the 2nd fix, then less and less during permawash and first rinse. It's usually completely gone from the wash water by the time I get to the 10 inversion cycle of the Ilford method.
allan
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01-24-2007
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#5
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Registered User
AGN is offline
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 108
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Don, do you use a presoak? I find the presoak water to pour out purple and the negatives do not have a cast.
Art
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01-24-2007
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#6
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Registered User
Max Power is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Aylmer, QC
Posts: 224
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Don,
In my limited experience of about 500ft of D-100, I have found that it is very tough on fix. As an indication, if it comes out purple, as opposed to a grey of about 0.1 density, then either your fix is exhausted, or you haven't fixed enough. That is to say, it ought to come out of the fix without any purple cast.
I usually use Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 for 5:00 when freshly mixed, and 7:00 when it's been used a few times. Even then, the leader usually clears in about 1:30 when it's less than fresh.
Kent
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01-24-2007
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#7
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Don
fishtek is offline
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: 07003
Posts: 511
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Great help, folks! Seems I'm not fixing long enough. I'll try another roll tomorrow, and fix for 5-6 minutes, and see what happens.
Regards!
Don
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01-24-2007
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#8
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Registered User
x-ray is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN USA
Age: 64
Posts: 2,101
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Ilford Delta 100 and 400 are my main films. I was one of the field testers for both these films prior to their release in the market. Both films are so good that they became my main emulsions. I can say I've used them longer then they've been on the market.
It's not recommended that you presoak the film but if it works for you then have at it. Presoaking can change the developement characteristics due to saturating the emulsion with water prior to introducing the developer.
Delta 100 never clears totally in my fixing. I use FT 4 Formulary fixer for about 5 minutes. The fixer has no hardner which helps the purple come out. No need for hardner usually because the emulsion is prehardened now. Hardner also makes washing more difficult. Probably 50% of the purple comes out in the fixer and then a 3-5 minute hypo clearing bath removes about 40%. The final wash of ten minutes removes the rest.
My standard developer is Ilford HC @ 1:47 (from concentrate) @68F for 7-1/2 minutes with very gentle agitiation at 30 second intervals. It is high accutance, full speed and does not block highlights and has full shadow detail ( true 100 speed).
Since the intro of Delta films I've probably shot 6-7 thousand rolls and many many sheets to 8x10.
I also did the trade trial testing of the prerelease T-max films. You see what film I use!
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01-24-2007
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#10
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local man of mystery
kaiyen is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Age: 34
Posts: 2,204
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As mentioned, Ilford specifically recommends against a pre-wash, but whatever works works. Just stay consistent. But, again, it'll come out in the wash (and it's easier with permawash in there).
allan
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01-24-2007
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#11
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Waiting on Maitani
Trius is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rochester, NY & Toronto area
Posts: 7,828
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Don: You can re-fix dried film.
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01-25-2007
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#12
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Elmar user
markinlondon is offline
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: London, for now...
Age: 52
Posts: 1,573
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The purple cast will fade over time. I don't really worry about it. D100 is about the only "new technology" film I can get on with but that probably says more about me than the film.
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