Zorki 4K - "HOW TO - CLA"

[Green_Blue]

Originally Posted by wolves3012

Firstly, check your technique setting the counter. Either hold the winder knob firmly or cock the shutter before setting the counter. Having said that, the counter isn't linked to anything, mechanically, except being friction-coupled to the winder knob.

Generally, you set the counter after loading film and you'll have most likely re-wound a film before that (stating the obvious). Therefore, is the camera going back into "advance" properly? If it's not, I'd look at the bit about flushing out the dog-clutch inside the sprocket and adding some oil (check out the precautions too, it'll run out of the bottom of the sprocket area).

Hope that helps!

So after some experimentation I have given up on setting the counter and I just keep on using until I run out. I find that after I rewind the film there are times when the advance will not work properly however it takes a bit of fiddling with the shutter disengaging ring and a bit of turning of the advance before the camera regains friction.

Is the dog clutch the lever at the bottom of the camera?

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by Green_Blue

So after some experimentation I have given up on setting the counter and I just keep on using until I run out. I find that after I rewind the film there are times when the advance will not work properly however it takes a bit of fiddling with the shutter disengaging ring and a bit of turning of the advance before the camera regains friction.

Is the dog clutch the lever at the bottom of the camera?

The dog clutch is inside the sprocket assembly, at the top of it. It's not easy to get to without a total stripdown, unfortunately

[Green_Blue]

Just my luck, now I have a problem that really can't be ignored, I think something must have bumped the rangefinder in my bag because now it does not focus properly. I was just wondering should I do the infinity adjustment first or the close distance first or does it not really matter what order I do it in?

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by Green_Blue

Just my luck, now I have a problem that really can't be ignored, I think something must have bumped the rangefinder in my bag because now it does not focus properly. I was just wondering should I do the infinity adjustment first or the close distance first or does it not really matter what order I do it in?

I'd set the infinity first but don't be too fussy because the close-up affects the infinity and vice-versa. You have to, kind of, refine the accuracy at each end of the scale in stages until both ends are correct.

If you've bumped it out of alignment, it's anyone's guess as to what part moved but it just might be the RF sensor tip.

[jab]

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Originally Posted by jab

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

It might be easier when the shutter is cocked and the speed is set at 1/125 sec

did you rewind the slowspeed mechanism about 2 1/2 times counter clockwise before reinstalling?

I'm just working on two 4K's and putting back the slow speed mechanism is really the easiest part

[danieldumanescu]

Originally Posted by jab

I got hold of a Zorki 4 with a shutter problem: the second curtain doesn't move. To my delight I found this thread with the excellent description how to dismantle the camera. This gave me the confidence to have a go at a repair.

I got as far as part 2, refitting the slow speed mechanism up to: " If anything fouls up, STOP and ascertain why, DON'T continue to wind!". Repeated the re-assembly several times, paying careful attention not to trap the 2nd curtain closing lever under the cam of the slow speed mechanism: same thing every time: can only wind about 20% of the way. (Btw, if I manually operate the 2nd curtain closing lever, the curtain does move OK).

Any suggestions?

Please post a photo of your escapement. It is most suffering from a wrong engagement position beteween the O ring and the cam driving cog wheel. Take a VERY close look at the wonderful photos at the beginning.

[julspeter]

Great guide for CLA, might attempt it one day. However, before completely disassembling the camera, I would like to ask one question. When I look into the viewfinder, the RF patch is way off to the right. It makes focusing annoying, as I have to tilt the camera away from the subject. The alignment however is perfectly fine at both infinity and 1 m. Is this a fixable problem, or just one of the design quirks of the Zorki 4k? Thank you.

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by julspeter

Great guide for CLA, might attempt it one day. However, before completely disassembling the camera, I would like to ask one question. When I look into the viewfinder, the RF patch is way off to the right. It makes focusing annoying, as I have to tilt the camera away from the subject. The alignment however is perfectly fine at both infinity and 1 m. Is this a fixable problem, or just one of the design quirks of the Zorki 4k? Thank you.

It should not be off to the right, it should be pretty much central. However, I really can't see how this can be wrong unless the two prisms of the VF block are misaligned - if they are, you will not be able to do anything about it because they're cemented together.

Sorry for the slow reply, I only just noticed this question.