Zorki 4K - "HOW TO - CLA"

[persefonia]

in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by persefonia

great instructions. but i had a little accident. the spring under the wind lever has got completely unwind and fall out. how can i put it back? how can i wind it? hhave you any photos of its original position?

Yes that's happened to me too! There are pictures of the spring in its correct position if you look above. You have to wind it back around the bobbin, carefully. I'd suggest some thin leather gloves or great care, you will cut your fingers very easily. Once wound around the bobbin, insert the pin as described above. The inner end of the spring hooks around a pin on the bobbin, by the way and the spring winds clockwise onto it (from memory!).

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by persefonia

in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum

Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.

[persefonia]

Originally Posted by wolves3012

Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.

thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by persefonia

thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them

To do this you need to remove the top plate. After removing the flash sync/slow-speed stuff etc on the top plate, take off the rangefinder. Under it there is a screw to be removed. Next remove another screw near the pillar for the shutter release/rewind collar. I think there are just those two that retain the top plate as long as the body front is removed. Lift it off carefully since several parts will fall out. Note the pin in the shutter mechanism that engages in the shutter drum, it will have to be replaced in the same position. Ditto the restrictor gear on the bottom of the drum.

Good luck!

[PMR]

Originally Posted by wolves3012

Zorki 4K "HOW TO - CLA" here. hope you like it!

NOTE 1 - most photos will be in the posts below the sections - there are more than 5
photos in most sections!

NOTE 2: You can use this for a Zorki 4 as well. Apart from the winder, the two models are identical. To remove the winder knob on the Zorki 4, slacken the small grub-screw in it and then unscrew it. Ignore the parts about the rewind lever and its associated gears thereafter.

UPDATE: freeranger has kindly turned this thread into a PDF file, which can be found at:
http://www.fileupyours.com/files/102206/zorki4cla.pdf
Thanks freeranger

I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by PMR

I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter

The link got changed I'm afraid, although I thought there was an alternative. I didn't create the pdf file, another member did that. There's nothing in the pdf that isn't in the thread though.

[sooner]

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!

[Kim Coxon]

Yes, but that takes all the fun out of it.

Kim

Originally Posted by sooner

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by sooner

Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!

Buying a Bessa R patently doesn't achieve a CLA on a Zorki 4. Your point is what? The Bessa replaces everyone's Zorki 4, perhaps? How dull that would be!

Thankfully, some of us actually like these cameras, otherwise they'd all be junked and history would be lost.

[Vido]

I started work today on a new PDF of wolves3012's tutorial; should be finished by Monday, Nov. 12, 2007. It includes the addendums of questions/answers after wolves3012 submitted his tutorial, and all the photos set within the text for easy reference of each step.

That is if wolves3012 will let me ~;-)

[Vido]

Here is the new home for the PDF of wolves3012 CLA Tutorial on the Zorki 4/4K, edited by Vido:

http://thephotocollege.com/wolves301..._4K%20Tut.html

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by Vido

Here is the new home for the PDF of wolves3012 CLA Tutorial on the Zorki 4/4K, edited by Vido:

http://thephotocollege.com/wolves301..._4K%20Tut.html

Oops, I forgot to post that, thanks Vido...and thanks for the effort of producing it!

[Vido]

Oops, me too. I couldn't remember if I was supposed to do it or you, but it's there now for the clicking of others. The post-production taught me a lot. Thanks for letting me help get your work back to help all the FSU users.

[blacknoise]

hey,

great guide, made my Zorki a wayyy better camera

Any idea how much of it could be adapted to my Fed 4b, which could also do with a tune up?

Thanks

Rob

[Vido]

I know wolves3012 will be pleased all his work helped you with your Zorki. I didn't think mine needed a CLA but I did one anyway to see if I could follow my own editing of his great tutorial. I even applied some I learned from him while rebuilding my brother's Summitar 50/2 (the one with the friendly aperture blades), two Kiev 6x6's, and an old strat I never play.

Also am applying the techniques on the new (old) Argus A3 with the extinction meter that kinda almost works. Soon.

Vido


Bunches of cameras I'll sell one day, so you gotta be quick! Used them all while shooting thephotocollege.com

[mynameislee2]

I need to lubricate/fix the shutter release on my Zorki 2C. Before I start dismantelling it are the above instructions and parts the same?

Regards,
Lee

[fefe]

Thanks for the detailed guide. My Zorki 4K had lost its shutter trigger and spring due to the loosening of the small screw that holds it in place.
I removed the top cover following your instructions, tightened the screw, cleaned up things around, remounted the whole thing, et voila ! It is now ready to take a few more years of beating.

[BigHairyFinn]

Hiya, might as well piggyback this thread. I have a 4K I managed to drop on a trip, get the RF totally out of whack and then fumble enough to loosen the adjustment screw enough to have it rattling inside.

So thanks to the detailed instructions here (big hand) I finally got to repairing it, alas theres a couple things I am missing now I put it all back together again.

1. Film advance is "loose", as in I need to advance first halfway, and then advance fully to get the shutter triggered. Is it my spring too loose or the cog wheel under the spring in the wrong position?

2. The film rewind release doesn't work. I mean it releases the silver spool with the teeth from the shutter allright, but it won't "release" it to allow rewinding, it only moves half a turn and then stops. And I didn't really touch anything of that assembly, only the rewind mechanism.

3. If you look from the film compartment there are the cogwheels and then a "claw"... on the claw there is a small spring... where/how what is it supposed to be doing? Apparently not allowing a return of the cogwheels but I didn't pay attention to its existence before removing a hefty dollop of grease. The spring's function is a mystery...

*sigh* the Fed 3 I reassembled was such a cakewalk as are plain 4's.

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by BigHairyFinn

Hiya, might as well piggyback this thread. I have a 4K I managed to drop on a trip, get the RF totally out of whack and then fumble enough to loosen the adjustment screw enough to have it rattling inside.

So thanks to the detailed instructions here (big hand) I finally got to repairing it, alas theres a couple things I am missing now I put it all back together again.

1. Film advance is "loose", as in I need to advance first halfway, and then advance fully to get the shutter triggered. Is it my spring too loose or the cog wheel under the spring in the wrong position?

2. The film rewind release doesn't work. I mean it releases the silver spool with the teeth from the shutter allright, but it won't "release" it to allow rewinding, it only moves half a turn and then stops. And I didn't really touch anything of that assembly, only the rewind mechanism.

3. If you look from the film compartment there are the cogwheels and then a "claw"... on the claw there is a small spring... where/how what is it supposed to be doing? Apparently not allowing a return of the cogwheels but I didn't pay attention to its existence before removing a hefty dollop of grease. The spring's function is a mystery...

*sigh* the Fed 3 I reassembled was such a cakewalk as are plain 4's.

In answer to your questions:
1) yes you did reposition the ratchet wrongly. Take a close look at the pictures and you'll see the ramps in the correct position. Alternatively, just move it about 1/8 turn and try again. You can't be much further away than that.

2) The rewind release collar should only turn about 1/4 turn anyway. Effectively what it does is to depress the shutter and release the sprocket. If the sprocket IS releasing you could lock the shutter down when rewinding and live with that or take it all apart and solve whatever is the real problem.

3) The "claw" you mention is a ratchet that allows one-way gear movement. The tiny spring keeps the "claw" (it's actually called a pawl) in engagement with the gear teeth.

Hope that helps!

[Pictor_M]

Many, many thanks! Following your instructions my Zorky-4K had now new life.

[paul beard]

I'm stuck on part 2, getting the slow speed gearing back in. I seem to get it to the right place but I don't get the shutter speed selector and the ring gear to cooperate. And of course, you don't get to find this out 'til you have the whole thing back together. Is there a gotcha there that the easily baffled might run into?

EDIT: I have made another couple of runs at this and perhaps my escapement has gotten gummed from repeated handling. I'm de-greasing it again (mmm, the smell of orange oil). Where my reality deviates from the documentation is the number of turns i need to wind the ring gear: I need almost 2 full revs to get the pin in the right place. Is there a more precise way to tell if this is working properly?

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by paul beard

I'm stuck on part 2, getting the slow speed gearing back in. I seem to get it to the right place but I don't get the shutter speed selector and the ring gear to cooperate. And of course, you don't get to find this out 'til you have the whole thing back together. Is there a gotcha there that the easily baffled might run into?

EDIT: I have made another couple of runs at this and perhaps my escapement has gotten gummed from repeated handling. I'm de-greasing it again (mmm, the smell of orange oil). Where my reality deviates from the documentation is the number of turns i need to wind the ring gear: I need almost 2 full revs to get the pin in the right place. Is there a more precise way to tell if this is working properly?

First of all, the 1-and-a-half turns was what mine needed. I don't think 2 turns would mean something is wrong, it's just a case of individual spring tension etc. You'll probably find that 3 turns (ish) can't be achieved because the spring is fully found before 3 turns and that needs to be avoided.

The only way to check if you have it set up properly is to cock the shutter, which can be awkward to do with half the top missing (and the lever, in particular!). Try winding it by turning the film sprocket in the normal film travel direction. Hurts your fingers but it works. Good luck!

[paul beard]

Ah, OK. And one more detail. Since mine is a 4, not a 4K, I can use the winder knob to cock the shutter, yes?

The speed selector on this 'un was a little balky and still seems a little tricky, as if the tabs and slots don't fit well. I guess it's only a '70 and hasn't been run in yet?

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by paul beard

Ah, OK. And one more detail. Since mine is a 4, not a 4K, I can use the winder knob to cock the shutter, yes?

The speed selector on this 'un was a little balky and still seems a little tricky, as if the tabs and slots don't fit well. I guess it's only a '70 and hasn't been run in yet?

On a 4 you can just screw the knob back on and use that, yes.

If the tabs/slots of the selector are tight, try a few small dabs of lightwight grease on the slots. Run the selector around the speeds a bit to work it in. Personally, I tend to oil or grease the contact surfaces of any moving parts. Oil for bearings of any sort and grease for gears and anywhere oils wouldn't stay in place.