What Films Work Well In Rodinal?

I just placed an order at Freestyle and on a whim included a bottle of Rodinal. I have only ever used D76 before.

Now, what films work well in Rodinal? I've read in an earlier thread that HP5+ does not. Should I assume that Tri-X also does not? if so, how about FP4+? Those three are the only B&W films I use so I hope I didn't waste the $7 on a developer that doesn't like any of them.

I'm willing to try a different film - live dangerously! - but Tri-X, HP5+ and FP4+ are readily available and not too expensive.

Also, is the process of developing in Rodinal basically similar to developing in D76 1:1, aside from the times? I typically do it at 68F after a water presoak, agitating for the first minute then for 5 sec and a tap each 30 sec, in a Paterson tank. Then fixer, hypo, wash, then Photoflo.

[r-brian]

I've developed TMax 100, Plus-X, FP4+ and HP5+ in Rodinal. The low speed films are fine. The HP5+ I've scanned and am not sure if I like it or not. See the 2 photos in my gallery of the mountain top cabin, 4x5 HP5+ (Arista Pro 400) in Rodinal 1:50. I may have stretched the dilution a little. Most times I've found for Rodinal and HP5+ says 1:25 only. I've read that Tri-X and Rodinal is great.

Everything else about the developing process is the same as your old developer. I do expand my agitation sequence tho. Once every minute and sometimes once every 2 minutes. It allows the shadows to develop without over developing the highlights (compensating effect). Depends on your subject.

Enjoy and remeber concentrated Rodinal nevers go bad.

Brian

[GeneW]

As a Rodinal lover, I'd say any film with an emulsion is well suited

Seriously though, Rodinal is always a good choice for slow films -- Pan-F, Acros, APX100, Plus-X. Whether or not you like it for fast films depends on your tolerance for grain. It is distinctly grainy but distinctly sharp -- I personally like the gritty way it looks with ISO 400 films.

The 'new' Tri-X seems, IMO, to work very nicely with Rodinal 1:50. I posted some Tri-X/Rodinal shots in the gallery today...

Gene

[Roman]

Agfa APX100 and Fuji Neopan 400 work VERY well in Rodinal 1+50, TriX is nice, too.

Roman

[GeneW]

Meant to add -- the only film I have not liked with Rodinal is HP5+. Too grainy for even my taste, and I like grain. With HP5+ I get nicer results with HC-110.

Gene

[Stu :)]

Fuji's Neopan range (Acros, SS, 400 and 1600) love Rodinal at 1:50. All the B&W work in my gallery is developed in Rodinal.
I tend to develop my Kodak HIE Infrared film in Rodinal as well, it gives better tonal range without losing the "glow".
And I been known to develop Kodak 3200 in Rodinal as well.

Also several of the odd German emulsions work quite well with Rodinal too and there is a way to develop the new Gigabit film in Rodinal at 1:100.

Stu

[digitalox]

Yep Tri-X is nice, GREAT tones though a little grainy - though that may have just been my development. Not offensively grainy, but more noticeable.

[doubs43]

As already noted, the slower films - up to maybe ASA/ISO 200 - work well in Rodinal but it's real magic is with the slowest films. of 100 and under.

I agitate for the first minute and then for five gentle reversals and two "thumps" of the tank on a padded surface (to break loose any bubbles that may be clinging to the emulsion) every minute thereafter. I generally use dilutions of 1:50 or 1:100 so my times range - in general - from 13 - 18 minutes.

I don't know what size container of Rodinal you purchased but if you have small bottles that will allow you to divide it up, you'll keep it fresher and with less oxidation. I have a liter bottle of the original Rodinal (sold as RO-9 by JandC Photo) and won't open it until I can locate at least four 8 oz. bottles to break it down into smaller quantities. I'm presently using a large bottle of Freestyle's Rodinal.

Walker

[jyl]

Thanks, everyone. By the way, I was "unregistered" who asked the question - forgot to log in.

OK, then, I'll go ahead with the FP4+ and Tri-X.

I'm slightly daunted about the dilution - not sure how accurately I can measure 50:1 - guess I'll use a syringe (like you use for oral medicine).

I ordered the smallest bottle Freestyle had, so I imagine I'll use it up before oxidation is a problem.

Very exciting! I am a developing newbie, and this will be my first foray into anything but D76.

[doubs43]

John, if hypodermic needles aren't against the law where you live, Micro-Tools offers them in the 10ml size. There's 29.573ml's per oz so 8 oz will have 236.6ml's which gives you 4.73ml's for a 1:50 dilution. I use a syringe and a 10ml glass cylinder graduated in 1/5th ml's to measure.

Walker

[Stu :)]

I use a medium sized syringe without the needle to measure out 1:50 to 1:100 ratios. The one I bought from the pet shop gives anything from 1mls to 20mls. For measurements over 20mls I use a pyrex lab beaker.

What type of enlarger are you using?

Stu

[GeneW]

Originally posted by jyl
I ordered the smallest bottle Freestyle had, so I imagine I'll use it up before oxidation is a problem.

You'll retire before it becomes an issue

Seriously, the stuff has incredible shelf life... and if it turns dark brown, not to worry. It still works fine ...

Gene

[jyl]

Stu, I use the ones at the university lab - Beseler 45s.

[Solinar]

If you are a Rodinal user, you may want to acquire a 10ml graduated cylinder - It makes life much easier.

Enter the product code WLS-24685-B into the "search" field on the home page of http://sargentwelch.com/

[digitalox]

I have the small graduated cylinder - it measures down to 1/2 ounce. I just add 1/2 ounce rodinal, then 25 ounces water. It makes enough for two rolls with some left over. You store it, if not, rodinal is pretty cheap no worries. Also just remember its just a ratio 1:50, or 1/2:25 - you can use anything you want to measure, than mix, measure out your 10oz. in your grad. cylinder, and serve with a wee bit of cinnamon piping hot.

[doubs43]

Originally posted by Solinar
If you are a Rodinal user, you may want to acquire a 10ml graduated cylinder - It makes life much easier.

Enter the product code WLS-24685-B into the "search" field on the home page of http://sargentwelch.com/

Couldn't agree more. I use mine all the time and probably should buy a back-up just in case.

BTW, I've corrected my cc's to ml's in my previous post. #&@**% metrics!! Grumble, grumble.

Walker

[wilt]

I am quite happy with Efke KB 100 in Rodinal. 1+50.

[Duncan Ross]

The only thing I know about Rodinol is that my Efke 25 was processed in it. Outstanding results.

[zpuskas]

Go to http://unblinkingeye.com then Articles, then Developers, you'll find a list of recommended times and dilutions for Rodinal. You can also find a link to the Agfa website for a pdf with more films and info.

[canonetc]

If you ever get into Medium Format 120 or above, Rodinol 1:25 is great for Ilford FP4 or HP5. But I prefer not to use Rodinol on 35mm HP5. Results are too grainy for my liking. In that instance I use Sensidol.

[Mike Richards]

I've tried Agfa Scala in Rodinal, developed as a negative. Some results:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...cat/500/page/1

[JamesW]

Another vote for Neopan 400 in Rodinal, 1:50.

Also tried TMax 100 and 400 with good results.

[Kin Lau]

APX100 & Ilford FP4+ in Rodinal 1:50 is a nice, easy and very forgiving combination.

Anything faster is HC110 or Microphen.

[kbg32]

I'm not sure if people know the reasonfor the "grain" when developing film in Rodinal. My apologies if you already know. Rodinal is high accutance film deveolper, and by virtue, it will accentuate the silver grains in the film. At 1:50, with a variety of B&W films, it will produce negatives with a long tonal scale and high sharpness, provided the images is in focus!

I love it with HP5.

Cheers.

[wdenies]

I use the Jobo CP2 processor for my film development.
Has anyone development times for Tmax 100/400 (35mm & 120) in Rodinal with rotational agitation?