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Developing 45-50 year old Verichrome Pan 620 film
Old 08-20-2006   #1
venchka
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Question Developing 45-50 year old Verichrome Pan 620 film

In the course of packing to leave New Orleans and unpacking in Texas, I discovered that my Brownie Hawkeye has a roll of VP in it. When I finish the roll, any clue as to how I should attempt to process it? I did read on this forum that Rodinal is a very low fog developer and the writer suggested it was good for very old film. Another Rodinal fan said that he processed just about any film in Rodinal @ 1:100 for 20 minutes. Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Wayne
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Last edited by venchka : 08-21-2006 at 15:00. Reason: Clarity
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Old 08-20-2006   #2
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Don't know about developing really old film, but I used to shoot Verichrome Pan back in the '80s. It was great, had wide latitude and decent grain. I used to use D76 1:1, but don't recall the time.

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Greg
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Old 08-21-2006   #3
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Anybody? Any ideas?
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Rodinal 1:50
Old 08-21-2006   #4
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Rodinal 1:50

John Welton’s Recommendations for Kodak Verichrome Pan

Developer Dilution Time Temperature E.I.

Rodinal 1:50 10 m 72° F 80

Comments:

Rodinal: continuous agitation for 30 sec, then 5 sec every 30 seconds (two inversions).

This is encouraging as well:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce
Frank (and everyone else...)
FP4 and Rodinal is my standard combination. After years of tinkering, here's how I do it and why:
At 68-70 degrees, and film exposed at ISO 80-
35mm- Mix 2grams per liter sodium ascorbate and a half gram per liter of borax in water (half the strength Patrick Gainer recommends), then add rodinal at 1+50. Develop for 12 minutes with 3 inversions each 3 minutes.
120- use at 1+50 for 15 minutes, 4 inversions every 5 minutes. I don't add sodium ascorbate or borax for the larger film.
So why all the complication? My enlarger/ paper combination seem to require somewhat lower contrast negatives than most film developing data will accomodate, so using semi-stand development works best.
As for the different combinations with different sizes of film, in 35mm the results are just a little grainier than I like. The ascorbate/ borax makes a very noticeable difference in grain clumping, as well as speeding development. By 645 size, grain is right where I like it without the extra chemicals.
After all this, it took tons of trial by error to come up with a really satisfactory scheme. Done again, I'd stay away from the stuff unless I REALLY like to experiment.
As for HP5 or Tri-x in rodinal, I can't tell them apart except for the strange dark ooze that comes out of the tank with Tri-x, and the extra fixing time required for Tri-x. Results are very grainy in either case.
Specifically for 120 I've had trouble with uneven development with both Tri-x and HP5. I'd suggest running a test roll first.
Hope this is useful!
I'm game to try.
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