I need a good meter

[Todd.Hanz]

Any suggestions? I've looked at the Gossen Luna Pro and they seem nice, anyone here use one? If so have you used the Spot attachment? I like the analog type, I have a Sekonic flash meter but it doesn't seem accurate for incident/reflective metering. I would also like to keep it in the 200-250 dollar range, any suggestions?

Todd

[peter_n]

Todd I really like the classic old Weston Master V and I ended up buying a "new" version of this meter from Megatron in London, England. The meter is incredibly accurate for both incident and reflected readings, has a massive light range, and is light to carry. I love mine!

[doubs43]

Originally posted by Todd.Hanz
Any suggestions? I've looked at the Gossen Luna Pro and they seem nice, anyone here use one? Todd

Hi Todd,

I have a Luna-Pro and it's BIG! Mine is the older model intended to use a mercury battery which mine still has and is still working just fine. It's a first-class meter and my only complaint is the size.

For Christmas, my wife gave me a Gossen Digisix meter and it's a beauty. Quite small and light, it reads out digitally and then you set the analog dial for your settings. It agrees with my Luna-Pro exactly. In addition to measuring light, it has a clock, timer, an alarm and reads temperature. I ordered mine from B&H Photo at a total cost of $134.95. It retails for $199.95.

Walker

[denishr]

Todd, if you do a lot of low-light photography, you might consider something else besides Westons - they're not too sensitive - with mine (Weston V), about the lowest I can go is something like 1/15, f2.0 on 400 ASA film. I don't know about the Gossen Digisix that Walter has, but it looks nice, it's small (a plus!). Only drawback, I guess, is the construction quality (plastic, not very durable). I don't have one, and all of the above I got from reading various Web resources (like Karen Nakamura's site). Maybe Walker could post a small review once he gets familiar with it, and after some "real-life" tests...

I'm also looking for something more sensitive to use with my meterless Leicas. Weston V is excellent and very rugged, but not very sensitive - and I do a lot of available-light shooting.

Personally, for this purpose I'd be very happy with a a used Quantum Calcu-Light XP meter - it's probably the most sensitive low-light meter you can find It's not made any more, and you can find it used only, usually betwen $50 - $100, depending on condition and any attachments with it (fiber optic probe, etc..).
Still looking, though...

Denis

[nwcanonman]

I use a Sekonic L-318B incident meter, for which there is an optional spot attachment that I don't need. While it is digital, it's very reliable and uses standard AA battery. I got mine used on Ebay for around $50. It easily fits in a small pocket and has a looong neck strap with it.

[back alley]

shooting only b&w film, i find the tiny gossen pilot2 to be a great little meter.
no battery required, well built and the toughest little plastic case you'll likely ever need.
it's not the one for low light though.

joe

[furcafe]

I use the Gossen Digiflash (1 model up from the Digisix, which I also had & broke :-( ).

This is a question that's come up a lot on the photo.net "Leica Photography" forum:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-...?msg_id=005EGn

[GeneW]

I used to carry around a Sekonic L-398M Studio Deluxe II incident meter -- selenium cell and very nice to use, but a little large and heavy.

Since I picked up a clip-on VC meter, the Sekonic is scarcely used. I'm told the VC II is even nicer. Lovely, and accurate, little meter.

Gene

[doubs43]

Originally posted by furcafe
I use the Gossen Digiflash (1 model up from the Digisix, which I also had & broke :-( ).

How did you manage to break your Digisix? Do you believe the meter to be fragile? My impression is that it's pretty sturdy in spite of it's size and light weight.

Walker

[hjfischer]

An analog meter I have used for 5 years, battery operated, light weight, accurate, very sensitive and dependable is an Adorama-about $70. Highly recommended. Check one out @ www.adorama.com.

[jlw]

Random meter thoughts:

I have the Digisix and don't consider it fragile. Yes, it's made of lightweight plastic -- but that means that if you drop it, it doesn't hit as hard. My main beef with it is that the readout and dial are hard to read in low light.

Speaking of cheaply constructed, I looked hard at those Calcu-light units when they were new, but wound up walking away. The electronics may have been first-rate (although back in the day they did have a reputation as battery-eaters) but the cases, hardware and general construction struck me as excessively cheesy. They may be great meters for all I know, but I would suggest NOT buying one sight unseen!

If you like the Westons but need higher sensitivity, you might want to try to find the Ranger 9 CdS (model 348 -- made, incidentally, in Newark, N.J.) It has the same well-liked calculator dial and general shape as the Master models, but is hugely more sensitive thanks to the CdS cell -- it reads at ISO 100 down to EV -2.5, which corresponds to an exposure of 5 minutes at f/8 (!) It even has a rather accurate little bright-line viewfinder built into it, to help you aim its sensitivity area at the subject.

I had semi-retired my Ranger 9 because my stash of PX-14 mercury batteries was dwindling -- but I just found this page about converting it to use silver-oxide cells, so that's my new winter project!

[Brian Sweeney]

It is true that Selenium Meters are not good in very low light. But my Weston Master and Master II are fine for most indoor situations. They are amazingly accurate, and cheap. And of course no Batteries.

[EsaS]

Todd
I have a Lun-Pro F, but have tried the spot-device only occasionally. (It is not real spot, 7,5 and 15 degrees if I remember correctly). It is big, but I like the large analog scale. I use it to check the exposure by incident metering mostly and like very much the flash-meter feature. Feels reliable.
Cheers Esa

[SRMC]

I have a Gossen Digisix and am very pleased with it. I have used it as a reflected meter and incident meter without problem (it does not do flash or spot). I've found that it also helps me to train my internal meter (I compare what I figure exposure should be based on the sunny-16 rule) more easily than an in-camera meter. To use it you press the meter button and it gives you an EV which you transfer to a rotating bezel. This bezel then gives you the various appropriate shutter speed / f-stop combinations. It sounds more difficult than it is.

My only gripes are:
1) They tried to hard and put too many functions into the meter. In addition to a lightmeter it has clock, alarm, and temperature functions. I have occasionally pushed the wrong button and changed to one of the other functions rather than taking a reading.

2) To change shutter speeds you have to press a button and rotate through all of the speeds to get to what you need. This is annoying if you want to change to 100 speed film from 400. Sure, it is easy enough to calculate the difference in you head, but I don't trust myself to remember what speed I have the meter set to.

SRMC

[Tim]

Don't write off the little VC Meter. In spite of having a Weston Master and a Gossen, the VC is what I use most on my non-metered cameras. It's surprisingly accurate, and it's tiny. And it doesn't look out of place on the accessory shoe of a IIIf or a IIa.
Out this way, quite a few experienced photogs are starting to carry it in preference to bigger meters, and getting some pretty good results from it.
I've just upgraded to the VC II, which is even smaller, and has an extra stop or two range.

cheers...

tim

[oftheherd]

I also have a Gossen Luna Pro. Love it. I have a Sekonic L28c2 which really doesn't work right now. The Sekonic works in amazingly low light, but nothing like the Gossen. The Gossen Luna Pro SBC would probably be better. No memory (frankly, little on the Luna Pro), and presumably a little more low light capability. Some of the others mentioned do sound good, but I don't think you would be disappointed with a Luna Pro. I don't find it too big myself.

Btw, I also have a Sekonic Auto Leader. 1st one I ever bought. It is small, and to be so cheap, amazingly good in low light. I was able to meter a photo in a market in Korea with Tri-x at 1600. Sorry, don't remember the settings, but it was wide open at f/1.7 and probably no faster than 1/4 sec on a tripod.

Good luck on your decision.

[furcafe]

I certainly don't consider the Digisix to be fragile, I just managed to accidentally smash it so that the "M" metering button jammed (AFAIK, the electronics are still fine). I could have gotten it fixed, but ended up just getting a new meter & figured that I might as well move up 1 model.

Originally posted by doubs43
How did you manage to break your Digisix? Do you believe the meter to be fragile? My impression is that it's pretty sturdy in spite of it's size and light weight.

Walker

[Doug]

I have a Gossen Luna Pro F also, essentially a Luna Pro SBC (silicon blue cell) with flash metering too. As I was shopping for one of these, used, on eBay, I eliminated all Luna Pro varieties that didn't use a 9v "transistor" battery. So easy to find, compared to mercury cells!

I also have a Luna Star, Gossen's "pro" level digital meter. I tend to like an analog interface, but this meter is very easy to use, and it's a good bit slimmer than the Luna Pro series. This is an expensive meter, when new, but used ones go for more reasonable prices.

[Russ]

How do you guys find the time to meter with a separate meter, set the exposure, then trip the shutter? For scenics, I can see it. But what about fast, on the fly street shooting? I intend to start using the Yashicamat TLR. The meter is not working, but that gives me an excuse to pull out the Soligor spot meter...

Russ

[Doug]

Hi Russ -- It's a matter of being prepared, like a good Boy Scout! Don't expect to meter each shot in the process of taking it; that's likely too slow. Just be conscious of the light as you move along. I occasionally take an incident reading of well-lit areas and dim areas and keep them in mind. I have the camera set for the most likely opportunity, and adjust it as the situation changes. When the photo op appears before you, raise the camera and shoot. It's already set for the correct exposure.

Or if the opportunity appears differently lit, set the camera appropriately from memory of your meter readings. Or just wing it, then when/if you have a couple seconds, verify the light with your meter, adjust the camera as necessary and move in again!

This preparatory metering helps keep you alert to your surroundings and changes in the light. Heightened awareness is a Good Thing for seeing pictures (it also makes you an unlikely target for theft).

[EsaS]

Hi Russ
Just like you said, in many cases metering every shot takes too much time. Normally I use a procedure something like Doug descibed. Taking readings in advance and trying to estimate correct exp. when time to shoot works mostly fine with negative film. Slide is a more complicated matter and with it I try to use meter more frequently, unless taking several photos in constant light.
Cheers, Esa

[Nikon Bob]

I have a Sekonic L398 Studio Deluxe and like it for it's fairly small size and no battery. OTH I have a Gossen, forget which model, which takes the spot meter adaptor. The Gossen is bigger, takes a battery and is bulkier yet with the spot adaptor. You can guess that I use the Sekonic more. Both work well and are accurate enough especially since I use print film more. A true 1 degree spot meter is like carrying a small handgun with you, not the most compact for walking around with.

Bob