Kiev frame spacing

[peterc]

I've been going through the threads on fixing bad frame spacing in Kievs and been unable to find an answer that seems to apply to the problem I'm having (I could just be missing something ... if so, let me know).
I have a Kiev 4am that occasionally slightly overlaps or buts frames together. Most fixes for Kiev frame spacing seem to involve adjustment to the takeup spool tension. However, the Kiev 4am (having a fixed takeup spool) isn't, as far as I know, adjustable in this way.
Any ideas would be appreciated as this is the only problem left with this camera (I've plugged the holes where the dark was getting out and got the shutter running happily).

Peter

[captainslack]

Glad you started this thread, as I noticed the same behavior in my 4AM.

[peterc]

Originally Posted by captainslack

Glad you started this thread, as I noticed the same behavior in my 4AM.

All we need now is answers.
The only thing I've found that helps (but only a little bit) is winding the film on slowly and steadily and making sure the rewind knob doesn't get jostled in any way between shots.

Peter

[Xmas]

Peterc & CapSlack

I'll look at my Kiev this pm, but I think the fixed spool is merely an add on and the friction clutch of an AM is similar to its precursors. My Kiev spacing is ok.

It is likely that adjusting the slip will be more difficult than with a precursor, more stripping required.

Are the take up spools tight, i.e. do they slip easily or are they very tight?

A problem with the sprocket drive seems less likely.

Noel

[Xmas]

Tentative suggestions

1. Check that take up spool has axial play (i.e. up and down) mine has about 1/16". If it is tight axially that may be the problem, and you may need to file, ... after removal as below. Try to keep spool aligned with film rails if this is case.

It might be too slack, or tight.

2. Remove three screws underneath plate securing the bottom of take up spool. Hold spool in place in case it is spring loaded, this should be clear as the screws are slackened.

After the plate is removed the spool should drop from the drive and you may find that you have the normal Kiev drive fork mechanism and clutch to strip, and rebuild, which is possible with care without removing the top plate.

The clutch noes not need to be too tight, mine is really slack.

If you have a length of film you can try the first friction setting marking the performance with a pencil on the face of the film through the shutter opening on 'B', removing the film and measuring the spacing, the setting needs to work at the start and at the end of the film.

Good luck, I cannot strip my camera as it is under 2nd hand sale warranty.

Noel

[peterc]

Thanks, Noel. I'll look into your suggested fix.

Peter