Repairing vulcanite on a IIIa

harry01562 · 03-01-2006

I have a lovely little IIIa with what I hope is a small problem. The vulcanite is intact and complete, but is lifting up very slightly along the bottom rear edges. It is just beginning, apparently. I would guess that if this is left alone, it will result in cracking and major problems. I'd rather nip the problem before it becomes any larger.

I have liquid electrical tape, pliobond, and plain old Elmer's ++ available. I've used the liquid tape to build up small missing areas on my M3, and the pliobond on several full loose leather repairs. I'm uncertain which would be the best to use to just tack down this small area.

Anyone have the same problem?? Corrective measures that worked??

Harry

doubs43 · 03-01-2006

If anyone has a good answer, I'd be interested too. One of my cameras has vulcanite that's pulled loose and I need to get adhesive well up under the vulcanite. I've considered warming up Pliobond and allowing it to seep between the body and vulcanite but I'm not ready to try that just yet.

Walker

je2a3 · 03-01-2006

I' ve re-attached original vulcanite on a II using rubber contact cement. It was easier since the vulcanite was already off and intact. I cleaned the body and the back side of the vulcanite before applying adhesive. Be careful handling the vulcanite, it is brittle from age.

Joseph

reagan · 03-01-2006

Pliobond has been often used by others here on cover repair/replacement I believe. I've only used it for seals. My III has a place coming loose as well in the corner next to the lens, at top. As mentioned, the cover is quite brittle and I thought if I didn't get glue to cover evenly and completely underneath, any "gaps or empty spots" underneath would eventually give way to cracking. So I've decided to use it as is until a newski from Aki arrives for total replacement. I've installed an Aki replacement once before and it certainly was no biggie.

kmack · 03-02-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by je2a3

I' ve re-attached original vulcanite on a II using rubber contact cement. It was easier since the vulcanite was already off and intact. I cleaned the body and the back side of the vulcanite before applying adhesive. Be careful handling the vulcanite, it is brittle from age.

Joseph

I have used this method on a Zorki and a Kiev and seems to work well. An additional tip, for those hard to reach places: I have a few old insulin syringes that I keep around for oiling and gluing, the sharp hollow needle is perfect for small amounts of glue or oil in just that right place.

FrankS · 03-02-2006

If the repair doesn't work out for you, then a complete reskin from Aki Asahi is just the ticket. You can replicate the original or go wild.

harry01562 · 03-02-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankS

If the repair doesn't work out for you, then a complete reskin from Aki Asahi is just the ticket. You can replicate the original or go wild.

I've bought a number of items from him, and always happy with both items and service. It would be just sad to lose the original condition of such a lovely little camera because of what looks like a simple job. The more I look and think, two things that are harmful to me, the more it appears that I'd have to add pressure to the edges to get any cement/glue to hold. And that pressure will probably result in cracking and disaster.

I guess I'll just use it the way it is, and reskin when the inevitable happens. Nice that there is a reasonable alternative. I'll probably buy a kit before anything happens, to be on the safe side.

Thanks to the posters for some ideas, and helpful comments.

Harry

payasam · 03-03-2006

Right on, Harry: get a new skin and be prepared for the inevitable. Aki-Asahi the best, in my view, and I have the support of FrankS.

John Shriver · 03-03-2006

I'm not sure that all IIIa's have the real vulcanite. Mine has what appears to be an original covering, split above and below the lens, which is clearly just glued on. It's loose, but doesn't appear to be in any danger. But I usually use it in a case.