Old 02-21-2006   #41
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I swear something is not wired correctly in my mind. I seem completely unable to remember which bodies the ORAKO vs OKARO fits.
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Old 02-21-2006   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Silfver
Richie, nice setup - how do you find using the RASUK/RASUL sportsfinder? Pain in the ass? Fun/Easy?
It was annoying at first, because of the little peephole that you are supposed to look through; but, after playing with it for a while, I found that just looking through the center of the framelines and leaving the peephole part of the finder down is good enough most of the time. I do not even have to bother to put my face close to the camera. No more scratched glasses-ever

Richie
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Old 02-21-2006   #43
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This is some thread... and, like Ralph, I wanna know how is that all threads Rich starts are so successful?

Heck, I'm glad they stay!

Now, gentlemen, before I fall for these, I must know what is the trick with these cameras: when do you change the shutterspeed? Is it BEFORE or AFTER advancing the film?

Please, remind me...

And thanks, Rich, for the great idea of a Barnack-Leica show-off thread!

In case you care... it was your M3 camera with hood photo that inspired me to get one and use it. Right now, it goes in my pocket every day!
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Old 02-21-2006   #44
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Originally Posted by SolaresLarrave
In case you care... it was your M3 camera with hood photo that inspired me to get one and use it. Right now, it goes in my pocket every day!
Damn, knew I should had marketed that photo
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Old 02-22-2006   #45
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Francisco, old rule of thumb, change the shutter speed after winding the camera. I don't know if it matters with the Barnack Leicas, and I don't think you have to with the later Canon knob winders, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 02-22-2006   #46
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Thanks a lot for your pearls of wisdom , oh, Master of the 6000 posts!

Don't rest yet... I'm after you, with 3000!

(I had no idea about this rule being an old one... I think it makes sense and practice will help me remember it... just in case!)
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Old 02-22-2006   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover
Francisco, old rule of thumb, change the shutter speed after winding the camera. I don't know if it matters with the Barnack Leicas, and I don't think you have to with the later Canon knob winders, but better safe than sorry.
The shutter speed dial on the III/IIIa Barnack will not read correctly unless it is wound before setting.

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Orako ?
Old 02-22-2006   #48
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Orako ?

I have a question about the ORAKO. I have a IIIc but I purchased the one that is designed for the IIIf/g, I think. However, if I reverse it it fits ok on the rangefinder side of the camera. Does this make sense? I have seen them position on either of the rangefinder "windows". To those who use them regularly, can you exchange them from window to window wil the same results? Does this make sense?
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Old 02-22-2006   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Black
I have a question about the ORAKO. I have a IIIc but I purchased the one that is designed for the IIIf/g, I think. However, if I reverse it it fits ok on the rangefinder side of the camera. Does this make sense? I have seen them position on either of the rangefinder "windows". To those who use them regularly, can you exchange them from window to window wil the same results? Does this make sense?
Richard
The IIIc & IIIf rangefinder & viefinder windows have identical diameters- so the OKARO should fit them all, though strictly the OKARO should go on the RF window.
Fitting to the RF window gives you an orange RF view with a clearer central patch; fitting to the VF window gives you an orangey central spot while the rest of the field is clear.
personally I find that the orthodox fit (over RF window) gives the best RF contrast & is probably more secure. But I think the best long-term solution for a fading RF patch is to replace the beam splitter & have the whole RF assembly cleaned at the same time.
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Old 02-22-2006   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Film dino
Richard
The IIIc & IIIf rangefinder & viefinder windows have identical diameters- so the OKARO should fit them all, though strictly the OKARO should go on the RF window.
Fitting to the RF window gives you an orange RF view with a clearer central patch; fitting to the VF window gives you an orangey central spot while the rest of the field is clear.
personally I find that the orthodox fit (over RF window) gives the best RF contrast & is probably more secure. But I think the best long-term solution for a fading RF patch is to replace the beam splitter & have the whole RF assembly cleaned at the same time.
Cheers
David
Leica made this filter as an accessory long before RF patch's started to fade. In the beginning it was made for those who simply wanted more contrast in the rangefinder window. It is true that it is sometimes used to improve a failing patch, but this is not an absolute. A perfect patch can sometimes look better to some with the use of the filter. I for one feel this is true. The biggest drawback of this filter can be the cost. It is often referred to as the most expensive accessory per ounce that Leica has made. That is not to say that you can't find one for a reasonable price.
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Old 02-22-2006   #51
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Paul, very cool. Were you able to find it this way, or was it a project?
Hi, I wouldnt dare try something like that on a IIIg! I bought it from a seller in Venezuela and it came with the leather already. Wasnt in a good working condition when I got it so I sent it for a CLA. Works like a dream now.

I initially wanted to replace the leather with an original look a like but dropped the idea. It does look kinda cool

Cheers,
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Old 02-23-2006   #52
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Hi Walker, Sorry, thats the only Leica screwmount body I have ..... for now Go get a iiig, its nice Cheers, Paul
Paul, I wish I could afford one right now but the IIIg will just have to wait a little longer.

My IIIa arrived today and it's pretty nice for being 69 years old. The body is clean, the rangefinder contrasy and appears to be properly aligned. Speeds seem OK and everything is smooth in operation. The Summar lens has something on the front element like a kid with candy on his hands may have grabbed it. It was pretty much on the whole surface so I've been working on getting it off. I have a little more to remove before I'll be happy. Other than the stuff on the lens and the normal bright marks on the chrome finish, it's a very nice example. It's obviously been in storage awhile but had a roll of Ilford FP-4+ in it. I'll develope it later and see if there's anything on it.

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Old 02-24-2006   #53
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Originally Posted by doubs43
Paul, I wish I could afford one right now but the IIIg will just have to wait a little longer.

My IIIa arrived today and it's pretty nice for being 69 years old. The body is clean, the rangefinder contrasy and appears to be properly aligned. Speeds seem OK and everything is smooth in operation. The Summar lens has something on the front element like a kid with candy on his hands may have grabbed it.

Walker
It will be worth the wait! A IIIa and a summar is a darn good setup as well. Congrats! Hope you will be able to clean up the lens.
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Old 02-24-2006   #54
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kmack---which Catholic school in the American South did you attend? I don't remember fountain pens as we were still using carving tools for writing---:-)
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Old 02-24-2006   #55
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KMACK,
I attended a public school in the 1950's and learned how to write with a fountain pen, an old Sheaffer pen that was clear so you could see the level of the ink. But, and this is creepy, one of my favorite pens is a Lamy, red, Safari model. It is plastic and has a black nib that is made of steel. Great pen and great company, they replace the cap when it broke!
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Old 02-24-2006   #56
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kmack---which Catholic school in the American South did you attend? I don't remember fountain pens as we were still using carving tools for writing---:-)
Paul
Notre Dame Academy in Libertlytown Maryland, a large name for a small 3 room parish school. Grades 1 thru 6 in the 2 rooms on the first floor and 7 & 8 on the second floor. It was home to the three School Sisters of Notre Dame who did all the teaching (God's own storm troopers).

Quote:
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But, and this is creepy, one of my favorite pens is a Lamy, red, Safari model. It is plastic and has a black nib that is made of steel. Great pen and great company, they replace the cap when it broke!
Not really, like rangefinder cameras, people who use and love fountain pens will tend to end up finding and using the same type of pens, Lamy, Waterman, Monte Blanc, Parker et. al. In this case the Lamy is a Canon QLIII and Monte Blanc would be a Leica
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Old 02-24-2006   #57
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Kmack--well---this is reeeeal close as Maryland is JUST south of the mason-dixon line--so I guess it's OK that you're in the "American South"---:-) :-)
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Old 02-24-2006   #58
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Kmack--well---this is reeeeal close as Maryland is JUST south of the mason-dixon line--so I guess it's OK that you're in the "American South"---:-) :-)
Paul
Some will argue today that Maryland isn't really "the South" but anyone who grew up there in the 1940's & 1950's as I did would have no question about it.

Kmack, I graduated from Frederick High, Class of '62. I've been through Libertytown (Rt 26) more times than I can recall.

Walker
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Old 02-24-2006   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmack
My family moved to Maryland when I was 6, from Rhode Island. It sure seemed South to me!
Class of 62, then you remember the "curious" signs on the water fountains at "The Great Frederick Fair", you can't get more South than that.
That's exactly my point. Crossing from PA into MD was going from one culture to another. It was no different than being in VA or farther South.

I grew up in Doubs - hence my screen name - but it's become so crowded in Frederick County that I couldn't live there now. I still have family and friends in that area but it isn't "home" any longer.

My father used his Leica and other cameras to record daily life there from the late 1930's into the 1990's. That's light years away from today.

Walker
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Old 02-25-2006   #60
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How much trouble is it to get to the point where you can access the inside of the casing where the lugs are secured? I have a IIIa that needs to have one of the lugs tightened up.

Jim N.
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Kinky Red!
Old 02-25-2006   #61
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Kinky Red!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmack
She's a cutie alright, post her again when you get her into that little black number from Japan.

(I just love Leica porn)
No, no black! that is for funerals! My 'new' old girl will be wearing a tight kinky red suit! With a shiny chrome necklace.
Similar to what my M2 had, now in the hands of Jano.

I can't wait!

Rob
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Old 02-25-2006   #62
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How much trouble is it to get to the point where you can access the inside of the casing where the lugs are secured? I have a IIIa that needs to have one of the lugs tightened up.

Jim N.
Not sure Jim, The IIIa may have more screws attaching the camera itself to the casing. Search Rick Oleson's site for details, he shows it all.
Tightening lugs might be difficult though, they are - forgot the word - riveted rather than screwed to the casing. Maybe you can do something with a hardening glue? If you don't, the hole will wear out and the lug will fall off.

cheers, Rob.
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Old 02-25-2006   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNick
How much trouble is it to get to the point where you can access the inside of the casing where the lugs are secured? I have a IIIa that needs to have one of the lugs tightened up. Jim N.
Jim, it's not too difficult. Remove the base plate & take-up spool. Remove the three front screws you'll see in the vulcanite and then the six screws holding the top plate - three front and three back. Remove the slow speed dial and then the underlying plate. Now carefully pull the casing downward to separate it from the top and shutter mechanism. Note the orientation of the bevel on the pressure plate and be sure it goes back together that way.

The lugs are riveted to the body casing so tightening them will require a punch and a form-fitting support for the casing so as not to deform it when you punch the lug. Making a supporting form of hardwood shouldn't be too hard.

Walker
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Old 02-25-2006   #64
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I really want a IIIc or IIIf.
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Old 02-25-2006   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover
I really want a IIIc or IIIf.
Rover, those are the two most common models encountered so you should have no problem finding one.

You may want to look for the IIIf Black Dial or Red Dial or a late IIIc. The early post-war IIIc often suffers from flaking chrome as the materials available to Leitz wasn't as good as pre-war. My 1950 IIIc is unbelieveably smooth but the edges of the base plate have lost a little chrome. I use my Leicas so that's not a problem for me.

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Old 02-25-2006   #66
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Originally Posted by doubs43
Rover, those are the two most common models encountered so you should have no problem finding one.

You may want to look for the IIIf Black Dial or Red Dial or a late IIIc. The early post-war IIIc often suffers from flaking chrome as the materials available to Leitz wasn't as good as pre-war. My 1950 IIIc is unbelieveably smooth but the edges of the base plate have lost a little chrome. I use my Leicas so that's not a problem for me.

Walker
There are quite a few on ebay all the time. I find that they often are not described or demonstrated to my satisfaction, and if they are they sell for "too much," meaning for the same or more than a reputable dealer charges. I will keep my eyes open for a "bargain" for a little while longer, but have seen some that appear nice at some dealers who I trust to give fair assessments of their cameras. I mostly don't want to risk having to send one off for a service if I am paying the same price as I would if buying from a dealer a camera that is clean and working.

If a RFF member had a camera they were selling for a fair price then we could have a win win situation, I would feel good about the condition of the camera that I was buying and getting a "bargain" would not be as important. Unfortunately, you all like your Barnacks (unfortunately for me ).

I probably need to wait a few weeks before I act anyway to keep from getting ahead of my wallet.
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Old 02-26-2006   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubs43
Rover, those are the two most common models encountered so you should have no problem finding one.

You may want to look for the IIIf Black Dial or Red Dial or a late IIIc. The early post-war IIIc often suffers from flaking chrome as the materials available to Leitz wasn't as good as pre-war. My 1950 IIIc is unbelieveably smooth but the edges of the base plate have lost a little chrome. I use my Leicas so that's not a problem for me.

My IIIc appears below.

Walker
In the back of my mind something tells me that the IIIc was a single die-cast body and that structurally it is supposed to 'feel' even more solid than the later IIIf for instance. Am I making this up or is really the case (I haven't fondled both models myself so I can't tell).
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Old 02-26-2006   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Silfver
In the back of my mind something tells me that the IIIc was a single die-cast body and that structurally it is supposed to 'feel' even more solid than the later IIIf for instance. Am I making this up or is really the case (I haven't fondled both models myself so I can't tell).
The single die body casting began with the IIIc making it and all subsequent models stronger than the earlier Leica models I, II, III, and IIIa.
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Old 02-26-2006   #69
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Thanks Frank so I was somewhat right. So the single die cast structure was used all the way from IIIc to IIIg?
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Old 02-26-2006   #70
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That's right, Rich. The new construction method added a few millimeters of size to the cameras. I like my IIIa. Any your black II is lovely!
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Old 02-26-2006   #71
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Thanks, but now I'm curious to feel how a IIIc 'and up' feels.
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Old 03-02-2006   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raid amin
I know that this is not a Leica I/II/III camera, but it is their forefather and should be allowed "in".
The Leica II and Standard were both introduced in 1932 with the II preceeding the Standard by some months according to my reference.

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Old 03-02-2006   #73
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Quote:
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Raid, I can't see the top of your camera due to the lens shade. Does it have a rangefinder? If it does and has a Standard serial number, it would have been converted by the factory into a Model II. My father's IIIa was a Standard that was factory converted but retained the same serial number followed by an asterisk.

I agree with Rich; it looks like a real beauty!

Walker
Walker,
The camera has no viewfinder or rangefinder.
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Old 03-02-2006   #74
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Hi, It just so happened that I got curious about using an old Elmar lens and a gentleman on PN had one for sale there, so I bought it. This was followed by an out-of-the-blue pm to me by another gentleman who read here in this website about the possibility that I let my mintish Canon VI-L go, and he sent me a pm offering a trade of some sort. We have until the end of this month to decide whether we both want to finalize the trade or reverse it. Unless I am mistaken, the Elmar also comes from the late 30's or so. Your guess that the two accessory shoes could have been meant for a rangefinder and a viewfinder makes a lot of sense. I have a rangefinder (German) somewhere ...
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Old 03-02-2006   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raid amin
Walker, The rewind knob comes out for easier rewinding, as you said, and you have the correct serial number. The owner of this camera did not say anything about the camera being custom made, but he told me that the black version is rare to find compared to the chrome version of the Standard.
According to my reference book, the first 5,0000 Standard models were made in black. They ran from serial number 101,001 ~ 106,000 and were from the date beginning 21.10.32 (21 Oct, 1932). I'm not certain how many Standard models were made but after the first run, the majority were made in chrome so black in your serial number range is not common.

The Standard was almost the same as the Leica I, Model C except for the pull-up rewind knob which it shared with the Model II that was the first model with a rangefinder.

Sold as only the body, the black Standard was coded ALVOO and with with the Elmar lens it was coded AROOG. Chrome models were coded ALVOO CHROM and AROOG CHROM.

Walker
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Old 03-03-2006   #76
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I only have one classic Leica screw mount camera.

It's spolied rotten.

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Old 03-03-2006   #77
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Above, Summitar (coated), Canon 50/1.8, J-3, Collapsible Nikkor 5cm/2, Elmar

Except for the Elmar, all of the lenses can be seen in the bottom portion of the main viewfinder. None of them are "bad", can barely be seen. The Canon 50/1.5 blocked less of the VF than any of the first four shown here.

More lenses on this IIIf, scroll down about 1/2 way.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...+iiif+summarit

And a close-up of the Nikkor and Summicron.

Last edited by Brian Sweeney : 03-03-2006 at 01:53.
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Old 03-03-2006   #78
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I think I may work on my problem today. I received a rebate check from some Christmas stuff I bought.
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Old 03-03-2006   #79
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Well at least you have some 50's to use on it.

The Canon 50/1.5 is perfect on the IIIc or IIIf.

My IIIf is actually a IIIc that was factory converted. This is the camera that I got in the brown paper "Grab-Bag" at a pro camera store for $50.
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Old 03-03-2006   #80
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One day (but not during March, 2006 !) I will try to buy a clean Canon 50/1.5 to check it out against my other 10-12 different 50mm lenses.
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