QL17 GIII phtoos - internals

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Here are some photos I took when I opened up the QL17 GIII for some clearning and repairs. Hope this helps as a 'visual road map' when others decide to open up theirs. It was fairly trivial to clean the viewfinder, adjust the frame lines and f-stop indicators (bad alignment-dropped??), and unstick the meter needle. There are actually two cameras photographed. One a Black GIII and the other a Chrome GIII. However, all the internal parts are the same, I just wanted to point that out since some might notice the difference in the photos and be thrown off.

There are two hand drawn diagrams for removing the camera cover, with some notes on adjustments on Rick Oelsons repair site. [i](If the link is broken, send me an e-mail and I'll send you the images.) [\i]

Hope this is helpful.

The diagrams referenced above show how to get the top off. The three screws were somewhat obvious. The diagram shows how to remove the shutter and film advance lever. I used a large rubber gromet to apply pressure and grip the top chrome ring while I rotated it counterclockwise. The ring unscrewed and the rest came right off. Keep track of which washers go where!!

For the film rewind crank, you need to open the back, then put a wood dowel or similar object in the notch that interconnects with the film canister for winding. Then just unscrew the film reqind crank in a counterclockwise direction. The top then comes right off.

There are just two screws to remove the bottom plate.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

from rear

sfaust · 10-12-2004

top left from rear of camera

sfaust · 10-12-2004

overall top view. rangefinder/viewfinder on left under black cover, tape is covering the meter electronics, and the film winder and exposure counter on right side.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Front of camera looking at the meter assembly and frame lines. You can see this one was crooked. Not sure how it was damaged, but it was physically bent downward, along with the f-stop index on the left. I just realigned them carefully with a little pressure in the appropriate direction. I think this camera was the end result of someones tinkering.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

You can see in this photo how far off the frame lines were.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Left side of camera from the front.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Left side of camera from top left. Shows the battery check LED and button assy.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Rear of camera, center section. The meter electronics are slightly right. The two copper pieces sitcking out from under the tape are for the hot shoe contacts. This allows for the top to come off without wires being attached to the cover. Rangefinder assy is to the left.

There is a adjustment screw just about dead center in the photo. I am not exactly sure what it adjusts related to the rangefinder, but I intend to find out.

The red and white square is for the window in the top cover that tells you if the shutter is cocked or not. White is not cocked, and red is cocked. The red and white stripped rectangle is for the film advance confirmation window.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Closer look at the right side of the camera top

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Closer look at right side of camera, this time from the front.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Closer look at frame lines, meter assy, and rangefinder window from the front of the camera.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Bottom right of camera with baseplate removed. Battery compartment is just to the right of the tripod head screw in this photo.

jdos2 · 10-12-2004

OutSTANDING Stephen! Thank you so much- that's a wonderful guide for those daring enough to open it up!

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Bottom left of camera. I am not sure what the circuit board controls other than being part of the exposure and/or automatic modes of the camera. I have some schematics for the camera, but not sure how it relates to the actual boards and their placement in the camera. I have a service manual on order which will answer that for me. You can also see the battery compartment is made to be easily serviceable. Looks like two screws to take it out, and soldering the leads to the new part from a scrap parts camera.

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Last photo of the bottom, with the battery cover in place and spring in place. The spring and battery compartment cover will need to be held in place as you put the bottom cover back on. I did this with a screwdriver holding the door in place, which was slipped through the battery compartment cutout on the baseplate. Then I just slid the cover down onto the camera.

Let me know if this was helpful to anyone!

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by jdos2
OutSTANDING Stephen! Thank you so much- that's a wonderful guide for those daring enough to open it up!

Thanks jdos2. Its actually very easy to open up the camera, especially if all you are going to do is clean the viewfinder area (NOTE: DONT clean the silver mirror!!!!).

I needed to make some adjustments to the frame lines, meter, etc, and it wasn't all that much harder. However, the camera I practiced on I could care less if it was damaged. So I could try things without breaking my 'good' camera. That helps a lot, and I would suggest a parts camera to tinker with and as a parts source.

denishr · 10-12-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by sfaust
There are two files that are hand drawn diagrams. I found these on a QL17 repair site, but I can't remember the URL. I'd like to credit the originator, or better yet just point to his site. If anyone remembers where they came from, please provide a link.

The diagrams are from Rick Oleson's repair site.

Denis

sfaust · 10-12-2004

Thanks Denis. I couldn't for the life of me find it again. I'll update the first post to reflect this.

dwpayne · 10-12-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by sfaust
Let me know if this was helpful to anyone!

This is great! I'm about to embark on just such a project, and although I'm reasonably handy at such things, the more info I have the better. Many thanks.

peter_n · 10-12-2004

All I can say is - WOW!!

Pherdinand · 10-13-2004

Hm... the ql17 looks alot like my cheapo canonet 28. Inside, i mean. Probably they share lots of components. Good to know!

Brian Sweeney · 10-13-2004

Many of the parts are interchangeable with the Canonet 28. The Canonet GIII that went to Biber has the bottom plate from one; the original was engraved. Most of the VF/RF is the same. The Electronics, including the SPD, is newer on the 28.