Lovely Konica Auto S2 on EBay - problem!

jrong · 12-09-2005

I just got a Konica Auto S2 rangefinder off eBay, it looks in stunning condition, the leather case is immaculate and the camera itself looks to be in mint condition, hardly used. Everything seems to work, although I don't have a battery for the meter.

Apparently it uses the PX625 mercury battery - any idea where I can get hold of an equivalent?
It's only for the meter anyway, so its not the end of the world if I can't find a suitable replacement.

What is more disturbing is that when I look through the viewfinder, I can't see a yellow focusing spot to focus with. When I shift the focusing ring, the yellow frame lines move in and out, but there isn't a double image in any yellow focus spot to focus with. I'm stumped.

Any ideas?

Jin

bmattock · 12-09-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrong

I just got a Konica Auto S2 rangefinder off eBay, it looks in stunning condition, the leather case is immaculate and the camera itself looks to be in mint condition, hardly used. Everything seems to work, although I don't have a battery for the meter.

Apparently it uses the PX625 mercury battery - any idea where I can get hold of an equivalent?
It's only for the meter anyway, so its not the end of the world if I can't find a suitable replacement.

What is more disturbing is that when I look through the viewfinder, I can't see a yellow focusing spot to focus with. When I shift the focusing ring, the yellow frame lines move in and out, but there isn't a double image in any yellow focus spot to focus with. I'm stumped.

Any ideas?

Jin

Jin,

As to the battery problem, there are a lot of solutions out there. None are perfect, but Google is your friend; just type "PX625 replacement" and google away.

The reason that none of them are perfect is because of two characteristics of the original mercury batteries:

1) Their stated voltage was 1.35v.
2) Mercury batteries have a very flat voltage output curve.

You can step down the voltage of an alkaline or silver oxide battery from 1.5v to 1.35v, but they have different output curves over their lifespan. Alkalines in particular, put out more than 1.5v when new, decline rapidly, and end up putting out weak voltage before they gasp to a shuddering halt. Silver oxide somewhat less so. Mercury batteries tended to put out a steady 1.35v until they died, and when that happened, it tended to be sudden and complete.

Because mercury batteries were so flat in their voltage output curve, the designers of the first electronic light meters did not bother to compensate for fluctuating voltage with some kind of voltage regulator circuit. Modern light meters do, of course, since modern battery voltage output fluctuates.

You can also use a zinc-air (hearing aid) battery, which commonly puts out 1.4v and tends to have a flat curve until they die. But they depend on a air interface (they have little holes in them) and they die sooner than most others, even if unused (unless you cover the little holes). Some report good long life with them, others not so much. YMMV.

You can also have a voltage regulating circuit installed in your camera or have it 'recalibrated' for higher voltage. I recommend not having it 'recalibrated' since it is only accurate when the battery is putting out the voltage it is spec'd for, which alkaline cells do not do for very long (silver oxide are not quite as bad in that respect).

Frankly, I tend to ignore non-working meters in vintage cameras and use modern external light meters. I don't understand how you can properly test a vintage camera without having at least one testing mechanism you can trust. With a meter that you know is accurate, you can see if your shutter speeds are really wonky, etc. With a flaky onboard meter, you never know what's going on when your exposures are over or under significantly.

Just my 2 cents.

As to the rangefinder patch, that's a different story. Either the patch has faded out over time, or it has come loose inside the camera. Does it rattle if you shake it (gently)?

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

smudwhisk · 12-09-2005

You could try the Small Battery Co (www.smallbattery.company.org.uk), I've recently purchased an air-zinc PX675 replacement from them. They're not cheap but quick service. You might want to try an independent watch shop (or similar - not H Samuels or the like) since I also obtained a new original mercury PX675 for considerably less but they didn't appear to have any PX625s.

I'm assuming you won the S2 that was on ebay UK over the weekend????

Kim Coxon · 12-09-2005

Hi, To expand on the batteries, the closest thing you will get to the mercuries is the Wein cell which is a modified Zinc Air designed for cameras. It is also one of the most expensive. I haven't had any joy yet with calibrating the meter on an S2 but the batteries adapters work well. If you use these, don't use alkalines for the reason that Bill states. Use silver cells. These actually have a very flat discharge curve like the mecureys and is which is why they are specified for watches. The only reason that the camera manufacturers used mecurey cels was that in the 50's and 60's, silver cells were difficult to get hold of and very very expensive whereas mercury cells were cheap and plentiful.

As to the focus spot, it is a guess but as the framelines move, the basic mech must be OK. Therefore I would suggest that the beamsplitter or prism has become dislodged or moved. About the only way is to lift the top.

Kim

photogdave · 12-09-2005

Wein manufacures a PX625 replacement. Many camera stores carry Wein products.

jrong · 12-09-2005

Yes, I won THAT S2.

It's a beauty, but the main trouble is with the rangefinder spot. It just isn't there. No, it doesn't rattle if I shake it.

There is a dark spot in the lower left corner of the rangefinder window, as if moisture might have leaked in at some point.

Thanks for the advice on the batteries. Seems like my problem might lie with the rangefinder mechanism itself rather than finding a source to power its meter... not that I really need an in-camera meter anyway.

Jin

bmattock · 12-09-2005

G'man knows his stuff. He says 'mirror' then I'd guess that's what it is, all right. And since it doesn't rattle, it could be missing. Not to worry, they can be replaced.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

jrong · 12-09-2005

Great... hmmm, that makes sense. Does anyone know a cheap place in the UK I can get this looked at?

It seems that the moment a camera goes into a repair shop here, it's 40 quid (at least) down the drain....

Jin

Kim Coxon · 12-09-2005

I would suggest Michael Spencer at Clay Cross. He is less than most and will not charge unless he can fix it. You would still have to pay postage both ways. I would still try to get a refund off the seller first. It may prove to be the cheaper option in the long term. If you get stuckI may be able to have a look at it or can supply a replacement.

Kim

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrong

Great... hmmm, that makes sense. Does anyone know a cheap place in the UK I can get this looked at?

It seems that the moment a camera goes into a repair shop here, it's 40 quid (at least) down the drain....

Jin

caspert79 · 12-09-2005

I had the same problem with the mirror. In my case I found it inside the camera. I'm sure it's a weak point of the S2. After you glue the mirror back into the camera, you probably have to readjust your rangefinder. With the top off, you'll see you have to turn two screws to adjust it (horizontal and vertical). Make shure you have a good quality screwdriver, or else you will ruin your screw.
To solve the battery problem you can use an A675 zinc air battery and an adapter. My batteries were really cheap (6 for 2 euros), but the life-span of zinc-air batteries is short (they dry out --> just take a spare battery with you everytime you go out).
For my Oly SP (which takes the same batteries) I made a cheap-ass adapter out of an audio cable (just cut it at 41mm, roll it into you battery chamber and put in the battery). For the S2 I tried the same, it didn't work in my case (probably I have a weak contact or something) but probably it will work in your case.
By the way, the S2 takes razzzzzzzzzorsharp images, I will keep mine till I die!

jrong · 12-09-2005

Thanks for the useful pointers!

What tools do I need to take the top off the S2? Is it something safe to attempt by myself? I don't really have any special tools, although I did try to see how I could prise the top off the S2.

I don't really want to return the camera to the seller, it was a bit of a "buy at your own risk" as it wasn't really that expensive at all, and the seller said he did not know much about cameras and I knew I was taking a risk. It looks minty though, so you're probably right about it being a weak point of the S2.

Kim Coxon · 12-09-2005

Hi,
You will need a reasonable set of jeweller's screwdrivers and some sort of friction bung to take the top off the winder. The rubber stopper off a walking stick works quite well. Whatever you do, do not try to prise the top off!!

Use the friction tool to take the top off the winder. Now open the back, jam the sprocket with a screwdriver and unscrew the rewind lever. Be careful not to close the back because it will be difficult to open. There is a screw under the rewind lenver and a collar or screws under the winder ( I am working from memory). The top should now ease off. If it doesn't have a look under the flash socket cover, they may be a screw under there. Make notes as you go and it is best to work on a tray with a large piece of white paper in case anything "pings" out.

If you get stuck, come back and I will try and do a partial strip of mine and take some pics.

Regards
Kim

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrong

Thanks for the useful pointers!

What tools do I need to take the top off the S2? Is it something safe to attempt by myself? I don't really have any special tools, although I did try to see how I could prise the top off the S2.

caspert79 · 12-09-2005

It's really straightforward actually to open this camera. But make shure you remember how to put everything together in the right order (I usually put all the parts in a line in the right order). Somebody allready mentioned not to close the door when the top is off, I agree on that, maybe you can use a piece of tape to avoid that.
As a frictiontool I usually use cheap rubber handgloves (worked just fine for me). And I believe 1 good screwdriver to open and adjust everything.

Kim Coxon · 12-09-2005

I said a set of jeweller's screwdriver because in the UK, you can normally get a reasonable set of 6 on the markets for a couple of pounds and then these will do most jobs. A single screwdriver is almost the same cost

Kim

dcphoto · 01-06-2006

it's probably too late to help but vintagebatteries.com/battery.html has replacement batteries for the old mercury cells.