Why the M-Monochrom?
On a camera this expensive the price is not worth discussing, the same way that it's pointless to regret that it cannot do color. Rather, it is the value of the M-Monochrom as a photographic tool that is interesting to consider. I got one in late September and was overwhelmed by its capability: a unique camera that produces files of stunning detail and clarity, fine gradation and broad dynamic range, it can produce astounding images. People have asked, "is it as good as film"? My take on this is that it is "better" than film in the same way that one can say that the Summilux-50 ASPH is a "better" lens than the last pre-ASPH version in various measurable ways. But I generally like the rendering of the pre-ASPH lens much better than that of the newer ASPH lens, the same way that many people like the look of film better than digital files. But these are very general sentiments, and I would add the proviso that the M-Monochrom files are so malleable and robust that one can process them to achieve the look that one wants — and therein lies the main value if this camera for me.
Leica was gutsy at the M-Monochrom launch in using Jacob Aue Sobol, whose previous work was shot with 35mm point and shoots and fast film, to promote the new camera. Many people felt that
Sobol's photography did not show off this camera's capabilities; but, for me, it was precisely this new work that made me consider the M-Monochrom seriously, because I felt that if Sobol, shooting with a digital camera for the first time, could produce images that essentially matched his previous aesthetic then the M-Monochrom was worth looking into. More specifically, my interest was in having a camera with which, shooting in bright, high-contrast tropical light, I could produce the type of high-contrast images that I like while still maintaining rich gradation in the mid-tones. In this I was not disappointed, as the following photograph demonstrates.
M-Monochrom | Summicron-28 | ISO 320
Chiang Mai
Exposure and Processing
Contrary to what several people have written, the M-Monochrom is easy to expose and process, even in very bright light. Indeed, unless shooting in difficult lighting conditions (as when shooting into the lights in a high-contrast situation) or going for an unusual look, M-Monochrom files generally require little processing. For example, the following image required only these adjustments in LightRoom 4.3:
Exposure –0.10
Highlights –0.25
Whites +0.15
Blacks –0.07
Clarity +0.68
Point Curve: Medium Contrast
Note: I generally use a large Clarity adjustment in order to get the gritty look that I feel is apprporpiate for Bangkok.
M-Monochrom | Summicron-28 | ISO 3200 | f/11 | 1/250 sec
Bangkok
You will note that the above picture was shot at ISO 3200. For street photography, where a part of the street is in deep shade, as in this scene, while parts of the background in the sunlight are very bright, I like to shoot at high ISOs, usually in the ISO 1250–2500 range, in order to be able to get the deep depth of field from f/8 or f/11, while kepping to shutter speed at 1/250 sec or higher. The M-Monochrom excels at this because the image quality is so good at these ISOs.
As others have written, it's generally best to expose the M-Monochrom for the highlights and then "develop for the shadows". Indeed, so much detail can be recovered from the shadows that this camera has very extensive dynamic range.
Now, "exposing for highlights" with the M-Monochrom has substantially more flexibility and dynamic range than doing the same for transparency film. Generally, you can "expose to the right": just take one or more test shots and look at the histogram, which is very accurate because it takes its values from the actual pixels in the DNG file, not from a JPG. This gives great flexibility in exposure. Some people have written that it's generally better to shoot a lower ISO, say, no more than 3200 than to go to 5,000 or 10,000: by lifting the shadows by increasing Exposure in post-processing you generally get better image quality than amplifying the image in the camera by going to the highest ISOs — the only thing you lose is a full view in the LCD. The latter, however, is not important because you get all the information that you need in the histogram on the test shot.
I find the light meter in the M-Monochrom excellent, as far as I can remember exposure poses no more problem than it did with the Leica M6 — it's easier actually — and gives me less trouble than that of the M8 and the M9. I don't know in how different the metering pattern is in the M-Monochrom, but I find it much easier to work with than that of the M9 for wide-angle lenses.
Someone in thread on the Film vs Digital forum, someone pontificates:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtcls100
Curious to see how the Leica Monochrome performs in bright light situations versus B&W film. Blown out highlights like other digital cameras? Probably. Recall that the Zacuto tests showed that digital cameras could not record as many shades of grey as film before clipping to dead white. Modern digital is great in low light performance, not very good with highlights. Which situation do you shoot more of?
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All I can say to this is, "bollocks!" As I've written above, the M-Monochrom excels in very bright, high-contrast light — and gives more flexibility in this respect than any film that I've used.
And here are a few more shots illustrating the high-contrast cum mid-tone gradation that interests me:
M-Monochrom | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 640
Chiang Mai
M-Monochrom | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 640
Chiang Mai
M-Monochrom | Summicron-28 | ISO 320
Mae Salong
Lightroom vs Other Raw Processors or Editors
Before getting the M-Monochrom I used Aperture, whose general user interface I still much prefer. However, after getting to know Lightroom 4 better, I find that most its processing tools are substantially better than those of Aperture, with the possible exception of Retouching, i.e. Spot Removal. I particularly like the LightRoom 4 Black and White sliders, and find that dodging and burning with the Adjustment Brush, once you get to know how to use it, provides much better control than in Aperture.
It is, however, possible to develop M-Monochrom files using the excellent Raw Photo Processor (RPP) and then do further processing of the resulting TIFF file in Aperture. However, there is no advantage in this. As Andrey Tverdkhleb, the RPP developer, wrote back in May:
Quote:
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Since there is no interpolation I wouldn't expect any difference in resolution in this case, unless LR does something with noise filtering and antialiasing. With tone corrections RPP should be able to pull better details out of shadows. I don't have enough samples yet to be really conclusive.
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If you are interested you can download RPP and write Andrey Tverdokhleb (by clicking "Provide RPP feedback" and ask him whether there is anything new on this.
To digress, for Leica M8, M9 files and for Ricoh GXR M-Module — all of which, of course, require interpolation — I found that RPP produced much better resolution and colors than either Aperture or Lightroom. However, for GRD3 and GRDIV files I found that Lightroom, which has profiles for these two cameras, produces very good resolution and colors, much better than Aperture.
A word about Silver Efex: it's a great program that I've used extensively with all the digital cameras that I've used before the M-Monochrom. However, I've only tried Silver Efex on a few M-Monochrom files, and in each case, I found that I could do what I wanted with Lightroom 4.3, usually with results that I liked somewhat better. Therefore, at this stage, I am not likely to use Silver Efex on M-Monochrom files unless I cannot achieve the look that I want with Lightroom.
So What About the Other Cameras for B&W?
Of course, I've seen a lot odf good B&W from the M8 and the M9 — and I prefer the M8 to the M9 for that purpose, but that may be because I simply never took to the M9. However, for both color and B&W, I have preferred the Ricoh M-Mount, particularly using RPP for raw development, as in the following shot — clearly one can get good B&W without the M-Monochrom, but the latter often makes things a lot easier and generally allows an astounding detail and gradaiton, if that is what one is after.
Ricoh GXR M-Module | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 200
Chiang Mai
And here are two of my favorite Ricoch GRD3 shots.
Ricoh GRD3 | ISO 400 | f/1.9 | 1/55 sec
Manila
Ricoh GRD2 | ISO 200 | f/2.8 | 1/660 sec
Bangkok
Consider, the last one. This is taken very close to the subject — the type of shot for which the Ricoh GRD cameras are ideal — because you can roughly frame the shot with the LCD and then look directly at the subject when pressing the shutter. Moriyama Daido
in this short video speaks about his preference for using a compact camera for this type of close-up street photography. In the video he's using a Ricoh GR1 or a GR21, a compact film camera, which obviously doesn't have an LCD and he shoots using what he calls a "no finder shot". This has been called a "hip shot" and can be done with any Leica-M camera, but the Ricoh GRD with its LCD and huge depth of field will always be a great camera for this type of street photography. With an M-Monochrom, this is easier to do with a 21mm lens than with a 28mm one.
Now, here are a few of my favorite pictures shot with the M-Monochrom:
M-Monochrom | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 1250
Chiang Mai
M-Monochrom | Summciron-28 | ISO 3200
Bangkok
M-Monochrom | Summciron-28 | ISO 1250
Bangkok
M-Monochrom | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 1250
Bangkok
This last picture is the one that I like the best that I've shot with this new camera. The more I look at it the more it makes me think of the Japanese novelist, Kirino Natsuo, three of whose books have been published in English translation:
Out, Grotesque and
The Real World.
Comments on the pictures are welcomed.
—Mitch/Bangkok
Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)