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120 RF's 120 / 220 format rangefinders including Fuji, Koni-Omega, Mamiya Press, Linhof 6x7/6x9 cameras among others, but excluding the 120 folders and Mamiya 6/7 that have their own forums.

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Old 05-26-2012   #26
bob338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaehoppa View Post
did the W67 come out before or after 670?

I can't remember. I have a W67, too, but I only bought it last year. Information is not very easy to find on Plaubel Makinas.
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Old 05-26-2012   #27
jaehoppa
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yeah i know..

btw, what kind of film do you usually use?

do you use slide or negative?
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Old 05-26-2012   #28
bob338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaehoppa View Post
yeah i know..

btw, what kind of film do you usually use?

do you use slide or negative?
Rarely do I use slide film. The slides are amazing to see in such a huge negative, but I'm too lazy to develop it. I usually use Tri-X(320 and 400,) HP5 or FP4.
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Old 05-28-2012   #29
1joel1
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Just FYI, the 670 is a better camera than the 67. They seemed to work out some of the kinks, especially the weak film advance, of the 67 and put upgrades in the 670. Also, the 670 has a nice ribbed surface (for her pleasure) as does the W67. So, I'm thinking that the W67 came out after the 67 and nearly to the same time as the 670. I sold my 670 and only have the W67 left along with the Bronica RF.

One thing you can do for sure is that after you take a picture, advance the film slowly and smoothly. Even though the 670 has improved gears, it still is a weak point.

You paid a fair price.

Enjoy,

Joel
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Old 05-28-2012   #30
leicavidom
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YOU MUST REMEMBER TO DO THIS; Before you collapse the lens panel,remember to focuson infinity. You do this by turning the focusing ring that surrounds the shutter release towards the centre of the camera.
If you hold the camera flat in the palm of your left hand,press the lens panel release button with the index finger of your left hand,while holding the front of the lens panel with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand and as the lens panel lock releases,ease the lens panel towards the body until it stops.
If you do these things carefully every time you use the camera you will avoid some of the major problems that affect this camera.
When you have developed your first fill,if there is any uneveness of spacing between the negatives let me know and I will talk you through how to retension the spring around the take up spool to avoid the spacing issue.
Good luck and welcome to the" Makina madness club"
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Old 05-30-2012   #31
jaehoppa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leicavidom View Post
YOU MUST REMEMBER TO DO THIS; Before you collapse the lens panel,remember to focuson infinity. You do this by turning the focusing ring that surrounds the shutter release towards the centre of the camera.
If you hold the camera flat in the palm of your left hand,press the lens panel release button with the index finger of your left hand,while holding the front of the lens panel with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand and as the lens panel lock releases,ease the lens panel towards the body until it stops.
If you do these things carefully every time you use the camera you will avoid some of the major problems that affect this camera.
When you have developed your first fill,if there is any uneveness of spacing between the negatives let me know and I will talk you through how to retension the spring around the take up spool to avoid the spacing issue.
Good luck and welcome to the" Makina madness club"

Thanks for the tip. I've actually read about this before and trying my best to be careful each time I collapse the lens. I also know that I shouldn't turn the focusing dial when the lens is collapsed but what damage can it cause? I'm sure I've turned it a bit a couple times without know but I should be ok right?
Also thanks for offering to help with the spacing issue. I will let you know when I develop my first set of rolls.
Thanks again!
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Old 05-30-2012   #32
jaehoppa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1joel1 View Post
Just FYI, the 670 is a better camera than the 67. They seemed to work out some of the kinks, especially the weak film advance, of the 67 and put upgrades in the 670. Also, the 670 has a nice ribbed surface (for her pleasure) as does the W67. So, I'm thinking that the W67 came out after the 67 and nearly to the same time as the 670. I sold my 670 and only have the W67 left along with the Bronica RF.

One thing you can do for sure is that after you take a picture, advance the film slowly and smoothly. Even though the 670 has improved gears, it still is a weak point.

You paid a fair price.

Enjoy,

Joel
Glad I chose the 670 over 67 at the same price. Even though I like the look of the 67 better I had to go with the 670 due to the improvements.
I will make sure to turn the film advance very carefully.
Thanks again!
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Old 05-30-2012   #33
maitani
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at the same price the 670 over the 67 is a no brainer, the 670 is probalby the most advanced makina made, as they improved the gears and takes 220 film too, but also the changed the design a little not to everyones taste.

I went for the W67 because I wanted the wider lens, and the previous owner had it overhauled with completely new gears at plaubel, so it should be good for some years to come, the W67 is usually more expensive than both, but probably more due to the rarity than anything else.

All Makinas are absolutely great imo, won't sell mine
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Old 05-31-2012   #34
jaehoppa
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http://aspect-ratios.net/rangefinder...ina-W67_02.jpg

I have one more question. If you look at the picture in the link, the long plastic piece is on the left side but isn't it supposed to be on the right and a film is supposed to be on the left? am i missing something? all the pictures that i found of the makina has the plastic piece on the left..
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Old 05-31-2012   #35
MikeL
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Hi jaehoppa,
During shooting the film unrolls from the left and onto the once-empty reel on the right. When finished, you'll take the completed roll out on the right. Before putting the new reel in, you'll move the empty reel on the left to the right, and the new reel goes in on the left.
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Old 05-31-2012   #36
jaehoppa
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oh i think i get it! i'm just a noob lol
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Old 05-31-2012   #37
MikeL
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Noobs have more fun.
Let us know how things go with the Plaubel, and keep asking questions as they come up.
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Old 05-31-2012   #38
shiro_kuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaehoppa View Post
http://aspect-ratios.net/rangefinder...ina-W67_02.jpg

I have one more question. If you look at the picture in the link, the long plastic piece is on the left side but isn't it supposed to be on the right and a film is supposed to be on the left? am i missing something? all the pictures that i found of the makina has the plastic piece on the left..
: ) .......To remove the spool there are 2 buttons on the bottom of the camera that need pushing to remove the spool and insert the film ... Remember to lock them after you load the film .....
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Old 06-01-2012   #39
shiro_kuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaehoppa View Post
did the W67 come out before or after 670?
I am going to say yes based on two things

1) The 670 has a hot shoe
2) The 670 has a shutter lock feature .When the lens board is collapsed the shutter is unable to fire .

The W67 has neither of these upgrades .....


Here is a link to some info on the Opto Mechatronic Masterpiece

http://www.scribd.com/doc/35816501/Plaubel-Makina-670
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Old 06-02-2012   #40
bastian a.
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The Makina 670 may be improved technically but the original 67 looks much better!
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Old 06-02-2012   #41
jaehoppa
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I have one issue. I finally took it out to shoot for the first time BUT i noticed that the metering stayed at - (underexposed) at whatever aperture/ss settings..even at f2.8 and shutter speed of 1" in daylight which is definitely not right. The iso is at 100. But this only occurs when the lens is pulled out. When the lens is collapsed the metering works properly as i can see it go from + to - and vice versa. Is the battery no good? I'm not blocking any part of the camera and the lens cap is off. What could be the reason?
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Old 06-02-2012   #42
jaehoppa
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Btw this forum rocks. So much help from so many people. Thank u so much guys!
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Old 06-02-2012   #43
jaehoppa
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i think it has some issues with metering..gonna contact the seller for possible return..so sad..
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Old 06-02-2012   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaehoppa View Post
i think it has some issues with metering..gonna contact the seller for possible return..so sad..
Get a VC meter for the cold shoe.
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