Leica III with flash socket - advice needed

[RFH]

Hi all,

I have this Leica III with a flash socket. I assume it's been added sometime after the original manufacture of the camera. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
My question is, would any of you care to venture a guess as to which shutter time(s) the socket is synched with?

[Mr_Flibble]

1/30th or 1/25th and longer as I recall. The shutter is completely open at these speeds, instead of a just a sliding slit.

But I think you are limited to using flash bulbs.

[RFH]

If the info helps, the shutter is split at 1/20.

So, no electronic flash possible? If so, can anyone explain to me why? I definitely won't be using bulbs...

[wolves3012]

Simple way to find out: connect a flash, remove the lens and aim the flash into the shutter, preferably in a poorly-lit scenario. Cock and fire the shutter - if you see any portion of either curtain, you would not have got a full-frame exposure. Sync speed is likely to be around 1/20-1/30th. If you see the entire pressure plate area through the curtains, the frame was wide open at the selected speed and you'd have got full-frame exposure.

[Mr_Flibble]

Originally Posted by RFH

So, no electronic flash possible? If so, can anyone explain to me why?

Bulbs need a few milliseconds to reach full brightness after being tripped.
An electronic flash fires instantaneous and would need a delay so the opening shutter curtain can finish traveling across the film plane.

Now, I won't pretend to know if there are ways around it. I'm definitely going to try Wolves3012's idea on one of my Leica III cameras that has an aftermarket flash socket hideously placed in the middle of the top plate

[RFH]

Thanks a lot! I'll try that once I'm through with the roll that's in it.

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Why not just take a flash picture at 1/20th and 1/30th if there's film in it? And some had an extra speed dot (red) added to the shutter speed dial; to confuse the issue.

Regards, David

[RFH]

Ok... once again thanks for taking your time to reply. I finally finished the roll and did the test as suggested by Wolves3012. It seems there's no sync with any of the speeds and electronic flash. Now I know.
Won't be getting into using bulbs, though.

[David Hughes]

Originally Posted by RFH

Ok... once again thanks for taking your time to reply. I finally finished the roll and did the test as suggested by Wolves3012. It seems there's no sync with any of the speeds and electronic flash. Now I know.
Won't be getting into using bulbs, though.

Hi,

As you've just finished a roll, did you take any test flash pictures?

BTW, it could probably be altered to take an electronic flash.

But, it was probably sync'd for a FP bulb which has a flatter peak.

Regards, David

[colyn]

Most of these aftermarket flash sockets were capable of working with electronic flash but went out of sync quiet often since the method used was to add a contact in the bottom that used the brake ecentric for contact.

I've had a few of these cameras and my fix was to remove the socket/wire/contact and fill in the hole in the shell with JB Weld. After smoothing it I then recovered the shell.. Be sure to smooth both sides if you go this route..

[charjohncarter]

Have a IIIf that I bought almost 50 years ago. It has a stock (not added) PC socket. I have the dial that is under the shutter speed dial. When this is set to 20 I can use 1/50. When it is on 0 it is 1/25. Yours looks like it does not have a micro second delay dial, so you may have a IIIc. But not being an expert don't take my word for the difference between IIIc and IIIf. Also, I've had some trouble with flashes that have hot shoes potential shorting out and flashing even though they are attached to the PC socket. So best to test the flash with your Leica to be sure it works smoothly.

Now the PC socket: if it is a real Leica socket it has a locking system that only will lock if you use a Leica cable. You can use a 'normal' PC cable, but they are sometimes loose. This is frustrating as the cable slips out and you don't notice. I use blue masking tap (3M) to hold the cable in place.