Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Being a Photographer > Technique: How To Shoot It

Technique: How To Shoot It Ask questions about how to take pics, as well as share your own favorite shooting tips.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Common settings for 35mm film camera zone-focusing for street photography?
Old 01-01-2016   #1
howard22
Registered User
 
howard22 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 14
Common settings for 35mm film camera zone-focusing for street photography?

I am new to street photography with 35mm film camera.

When I was using X100, I normally use prefocus 10.9 ft with f/8, that give me the range from 5.48 ft to INF.

When I use the DOF calculator for a 35mm film camera, for 11 ft prefocus, I can only have the range of 6.67 ft to 31.4 ft, that is narrower, so for the fellow street photographer here, what are your common settings?
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-01-2016   #2
lamefrog
Registered User
 
lamefrog is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New York City
Posts: 102
I assume that with the X100 you are setting the focus distance using a camera setting . This makes it difficult to change focus on the fly as it requires pushing buttons on the menu. With most 35mm film camera you can use the focus ring which is a lot faster and flexible. You can just nudge the ring in one direction as you move around and as the situation requires. Tabs such as those found on some Leica lenses make this even easier. If you are shooting 35mm focal length and lower you have plenty enough of dof to work with. I personally keep my lens on 3m and quickly nudge up to 5m or down to 2m or less as needed. I rarely go below f4. I rarely miss shots because of focusing .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-01-2016   #3
zauhar
Registered User
 
zauhar's Avatar
 
zauhar is offline
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,094
I try to 'learn' the positions for 5 ft and 10 ft, keeping it at 5 ft most of the time. You can quickly go to minimum distance if you need to.

Helps if your lens has a focussing tab.

Randy
__________________
Philadelphia, PA
Leica M3/50mm DR Summicron/21mm SuperAngulon/
90mm Elmarit
Canon 7/50mm f1.4
Leica IIIf/Summitar/Collapsible Summicron
Yashica Electro 35
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-01-2016   #4
Vics
Registered User
 
Vics's Avatar
 
Vics is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: California, USA
Posts: 3,298
I set the infinity mark on the aperture I'm using, which, on my 35mm lens, gives me about 16 feet. The DOF is about 8 feet to inf. I can then fudge it in closer or just quickly focus on the subject. I use (on RF) an acc. finder, so the fudge method usually works better for me.
__________________
Vic
Sony a200

My Flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-01-2016   #5
Ko.Fe.
Me. Write ESL. Ko.
 
Ko.Fe.'s Avatar
 
Ko.Fe. is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MiltON.ONtario
Age: 50
Posts: 4,140
Winogrand told students it is OK with 1/250 f8. He and like him also used 1/1000 to freeze the action on the street with film pushed @1000 ISO.

It all depends how fast shutter speed you want, how wide lens and how quick you want it to be to operate.
I took SLR with 28mm lens on the street few times, it was too slow to focus for images I'm after. I have to look at lens scale, I have to wait for image to become visible only after it was focused. Meh... It is like to be visually impaired for most of the time.


My film street camera is RF with lens which has tab and short focus. With tab I bring camera to my eye, my finger sets right distance without looking at scale, frame-click and go.
I don't really care for DOF with this method. It will be in focus anywhere between f2.8 and f8. I don't use RF patch most of the time. Just position of the tab.
I'm pushing film @1600 and from sunrise to sunset I could keep it at f2.8-f8 with #3 orange and #2 yellow filters under day light and clear filter under low light with shutter speed between 1/125 - 1/1000.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-01-2016   #6
Bingley
Registered User
 
Bingley's Avatar
 
Bingley is offline
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 5,221
When shooting street with a 35 mm lens, I usually set the focus to 3 meters, or approx. 10 feet. That tends to be the distance I use for most street photography. Using f5.6 or f.8, I can shoot quickly and the subject will be in focus at those f-stops. I usually shoot street with a film rated at iso 200 or 400, which allows an acceptably fast shutter speed. After that, it's just practice. I sometimes use the method Vics describes in post 4 above.
__________________
Steve

M2, R2A, IIIc, IVSB2, & T, and assorted LTM & M lenses
Minolta XD11, Pentax ME Super, and assorted MD Rokkor and Takumar lenses, Rolleicord III, Rolleicord Vb, Rolleiflex Automat MX-EVS




My Flickr
My Gallery
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-06-2016   #7
goamules
Registered User
 
goamules is offline
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,597
I take one shot quick, based on my pre-focus. Then, if I have time, I focus one manually and take another. Kind of like "bracketing" for focus guestimates.
__________________
Garrett

My Flickr Photos
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-06-2016   #8
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
 
coelacanth's Avatar
 
coelacanth is offline
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,431
I often just zone focus based on visual guesstimation and DOF scale on manual lens but here is another way, especially when you have time but don't want your human subject to react to you holding the camera up and/or you wan to use wider aperture and more accurate focusing is ideal:

I'd focus using RF on my film M on something that looks to be about the same distance as the actual subject, but totally away from the actual direction I want to shoot. Then I'd shoot from hip at the actual subject, or bring the camera up for framing for a split second. On X100, I believe you can set it to manual focus but use an assigned button to AF once, right? If so, you can use this technique using MF + one-time AF without bringing the camera to eye-level even once.

For example, I want to shoot someone on street. I'd pretend I'm shooting a tree or bicycle nearby or something that's about the same distance as the person(s) I want to actually shoot, then quickly re-frame or just blind-shoot from hip or chest level pretending like I'm just fiddling with the camera. Trust me it works, especially with super quiet shutter of X100.

If I remember correctly, I shot these using that technique with film M


A little bird told him... by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Man of Thirty Eight by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr


Dripping awesomeness by Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr
(this was Mamiya 7)

This example is, if I remember correctly, a combination of pre-focusing at something nearby then pretending to be fiddling with the camera.

Reader by
Suguru Nishioka, on Flickr
__________________
- Sug

b/w guy.

flickr | RFF Gallery | Buy my prints on RFF Classifieds | Instagram | Portfolio

  Reply With Quote

Old 01-07-2016   #9
nightfly
Registered User
 
nightfly is offline
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,721
It really depends on light, lens, time of day etc.

Usually I'm shooting with either an M-4p or an M9 and a 28 or a 35. In daylight I generally set the shutter at 1/250 and adjust the aperture according to the light (I often do this as I'm walking and crossing from light to shadow) somewhat subconsciously from about 5.6 to 11.

For focus my hand knows what distance the tabbed 35 Summicaron is at and I make micro adjutments from the tab being straight down which is about 3 meters.

As it gets dark I'll drop the shutter speed down and eventually adjust the ISO on the M9 if it's getting really dark and basically set the lens wide open and work from there being more careful of distance.

Been working like this for many years and it's why I'm sort of locked in to the Leicas because it really is the easiest camera to do this type of shooting with by feel at least for me.

Shot this last night with this technique (cropped for Instagram):

  Reply With Quote

Old 01-07-2016   #10
FrankS
Registered User
 
FrankS's Avatar
 
FrankS is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canada, eh.
Age: 59
Posts: 19,439
F8 and be there.
__________________
my little website: http://frankfoto.jimdo.com/

photography makes me happy
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-07-2016   #11
bmattock
Registered User
 
bmattock's Avatar
 
bmattock is offline
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Detroit Area
Age: 55
Posts: 10,460
I have been gone from RFF for a good while and apparently this 'tabbing' thing happened while I was gone. I had to go look it up.

__________________
Immanentizing the eschaton since 1987.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-07-2016   #12
Roger Hicks
Registered User
 
Roger Hicks is offline
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Aquitaine
Posts: 22,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmattock View Post
I have been gone from RFF for a good while and apparently this 'tabbing' thing happened while I was gone. I had to go look it up.

No, I think it's just language. I know roughly the focus corresponding to the position of the finger tab on my Summilux or the bump on my C-Sonnar, and can adjust it in a fraction of a second.

Cheers,

R.
__________________
Go to www.rogerandfrances.eu for a whole new website
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:47.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.