Poly Pan F iso 50 film

[raytoei@gmail.com]

hi varjag,

a. i use ilford rapid fixer.

b. i don't get the spots, maybe it's because
they are always quite dense.

the have black dots in shanghai 120 film, which i
attributed to temp o moisture change during shipping / handling.
not sure if this is same reason why ppf may have spots

raytoei

[raytoei@gmail.com]

i have developed ppf with the following developers:

* d-76 non stand
* rodinal stand and non-stand
* pq developer stand
* hc110 stand

raytoei

[Tom A]

Polypan @ 50 iso. Rodinal 1:200 for 120 minutes. The base of the Polypan is a bit of a dustmagnet and you spend a bit of time spotting (thanks Lightroom!).
Nikon F, Micro Nikkor 55mm f3.5
The Ur Menu - rivals even a modern digital camera in complexity. By the time I have figured ut the season,time etc - t is usually to dark to shoot. The Mercury Univex II is fun though - 72-75 shots per roll 18x24 mm sized. The camera is prone to have frozen helicoils as the thread is running alloy to alloy.

[varjag]

Originally Posted by raytoei@gmail.com

not sure if this is same reason why ppf may have spots

With Shanghai you have to be extra careful to cut the sticky tape (attaching film to paper backing) off when loading the film. It seems to deteriorate in the bath and land on emulsion as the spots.

[lukasdinohk]

Originally Posted by funkydog

Polypan F, 100 ISO, 15ml Ilford DDX + 650ml water, 30 mins stand development at 30 deg C. 1800DPI scan. The negs are a little thin for darkroom printing but scan well.

ppf_ddx on Flickr

The next two photos show the drastic light fall off for anything in shade

ppf_ddx2 on Flickr


ppf_ddx3 on Flickr

while the bright stuff holds together pretty good.

ppf_ddx4 on Flickr

Maybe it's the way I photoshop the pics. Here's a raw scan for anyone who wants to try.

polypanf_rawscan on Flickr

Hi,

Sorry to dig this old post out again.

I have been doing the same approach as you do (scanning the negative in raw and then converting into B&W later in Photoshop), but I am encountering problem with tuning the contrast.

I used to put a straight away invert layer, into a level adjustment layer for tuning the level of each RBG channel (I just drag the sliders to the ends of the histograms), and finally a black & white layer. In this way I usually have a greyish sort of layer over the photo.

I recently try a different method: invert layer > level adjustment layer to drag sliders of each channel > do a calculation combining the red and blue channel with soft light mixing in order to convert to a new black & white channel. In this way I usually have a high-key image.

Apology in advance if I am a bit off topic, I know I should be discussing the film here, not the Photoshop techniques. As you posted the raw scan, so I had a play around with it. It's interesting to see either of my way can't get the result of the final photo you got (which I like the taste of it). How do you get the contrast just right? Do you mind to share with us your workflow of processing the raw scans into B&W photos and some techniques used in Photoshop?

Jon

[funkydog]

Originally Posted by lukasdinohk

I used to put a straight away invert layer, into a level adjustment layer for tuning the level of each RBG channel (I just drag the sliders to the ends of the histograms), and finally a black & white layer. In this way I usually have a greyish sort of layer over the photo.

I recently try a different method: invert layer > level adjustment layer to drag sliders of each channel > do a calculation combining the red and blue channel with soft light mixing in order to convert to a new black & white channel. In this way I usually have a high-key image.

Jon

Hi. That sounds complicated. All I did in Photoshop was:
Crop to remove any overscan of the negative area (optional)
Invert (Ctrl-I)
Desaturate (Shift-Ctrl-U)
then either
Levels (Ctrl-L followed by Alt-A for auto)
or
Curves (Ctrl-M followed by Alt-A)

Hope that helps.