Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Classic Film RangeFinders & Other Classics > Zeiss Contax

Zeiss Contax Forum for the classic Zeiss Contax I, II, III, IIa, IIIa , G series, and if you want to push it, the nice Contax point and shoots. Some spill over from the Kievs, the Soviet copy of the Contax II/III can also be expected. Plus the ONLY production camera ever made in classic Zeiss Contax Rangefinder mount WITH TTL metering ... the Voigtlander Bessa R2C.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Contax I ribbons
Old 09-14-2016   #1
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Contax I ribbons

(I have put this post in this section and not repairs etc because it follows on from others)

OK, so using Erik's excellent instructions I have arrived at the following point without incident or loss. You'll notice that I put screws back in their holes so that I know where they should go on re-assembly.

IMG_2790 by dralowid, on Flickr

I don't know if these are original ribbons but the rest of the camera's insides look as if they have suffered from the attentions of others. The camera was working before the ribbon broke.

IMG_2792 by dralowid, on Flickr

To be honest I have read so many different threads on ribbons that I have become quite confused.

Ribbon I can order easily enough from Akai Ashi (apols if incorrect spelling).
According to my micrometer the old is +/- 3mm wide and .2mm thick. Will check their website

Then it becomes a question of approach. Do I remove the rollers etc which I would assume would make stitching easier or will this cause trouble later. Somewhere I have seen a picture of a simple jig for holding the whole thing in place while stitching. If it is necessary to remove the rollers how is it done?

If I keep the rollers in place I assume I need to record the tension and then cut the last remaining ribbon?

I'd like to take this one step at a time and I am in no rush. So long as I do not make the camera unrepairable by someone else (who?!) there is nothing to be lost.

Michael
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-14-2016   #2
Sarcophilus Harrisii
Brett Rogers
 
Sarcophilus Harrisii is offline
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,935
Hi Michael,
The ribbons look like the ones I have replaced in 2 x Contax II models. Same colour, weave looks about right and both mine (which I'm fairly sure were original) were stitched in place with blue thread. Others know better than me regarding working on Contaxes but I suspect they are likely to be original fitment. Despite the fact they are not as thick as original Zeiss material, most people seem to think the Aki Asahi ribbon material is the best alternative. I've used it both times and it's holding up OK so far and one camera is over 1000 cycles at various speeds by now with zero issues.

How far you go removing the mechanism is up to you. You can install ribbons with the rollers in situ but it's likely to be a lot easier if you release the spring tension first. Ideally you'd want to count the number of turns on the adjuster until it's fully unwound, so that you can use the same setting as a starting point on re-assembly. Sometimes easier said than done, though, the adjuster (On the II, anyway) isn't so easy to get a screwdriver head onto cleanly and it's not hard for the driver to slip off the head as you're adjusting the tension. Maybe the original Contax is easier in this respect? Not having worked on one I can't say but I'm sure the usual suspects can add to what I've mentioned and correct it if necessary.

Good luck with the repair and keep us posted please.
Cheers,
Brett
__________________

  Reply With Quote

Old 09-14-2016   #3
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Good work, Michael!

There's nothing to lose. Renewing the ribbons in a Contax is standard.

Removing the top cover.

1. Remove the film stabilizers in the film room. As a result, the screws of the housing of the shutter are accessible.
2. Remove the housing of the shutter from the film chamber.
3. Unscrew and remove the release button of the image counter with a piece of rubber (rear cover, near arrow).
4. Remove the rewind button. (one screw)
5. Remove the frame counter. (one screw)
6. Remove the small nickel screws from the top of the front plate (on the versions 6 and 7 also the ones of the receiving fork of the viewfinder slider.)
7. Remove the two large screws on the corners of the top cover, which can be accessed from the film room. (Inside the camera)
8. Remove the two large screws at the corners of the front side of the top plate under the leather. (Outside of the camera)

You now can remove the camera's top cover.

To get access to the shutter, remove the four screws of the cover plate of the shutter.

Installing new ribbons.

The biggest problem is the fact that the original ribbons are no longer available. One has to rely on alternatives. I've had good results with the ribbons from Aki Asahi, but actually these are too thin, so 1/500 and 1/1000 do not work anymore. The gap then closes to easy. Other speeds work fine.

Alternatively, there are the ribbons from Arsenal (Kiev). Which are thicker, more narrow and stiffer. I intend to use those when my v4 dies. I have no experience with these.

For the attachment of the ribbons there are two ways: first attach to the second curtain (Oleson method) or first attach to the first curtain (Van Straten method).

My method is as follows.

1. Let the ribbon that still is intact stay where it is. It serves as a model for the ribbon that you are replacing.

2. Set the shutter to "B" or "Z".

3. Remove the lower roller (in which the shutter spring is). In the left film chamber, seen from behind, is an aluminium hatch mounted with two small screws. Make these screws carefully loose, but not quite, so that the cover does not spring away because of the spring tension. Rotate with the schrewdriver the end of the spring (in the middle of the aliminium hatch) counter-clockwise until the spring is totally relaxed. Now, take off the hatch. Then the roller can be taken out of the camera. Beware the little rings at both ends of the roller but also the small metal pin that looks like a part of a needle. These components are all very important.

3. Remove the remains of the broken ribbon.

4. Attach a long piece of the new ribbon (at least 15 cm) to the roller in the same manner as the ribbon which is still good if the camera still has a good one. Work the ribbon through the openings while pushing it with a needle. The "caps" can be removed - by taking out the small screws - for easier inserting the ribbons (thank you Highway 61 for this tip). Use a fine needle and thread for the stitching. Lubricate the stitching with glue. Before the ribbon passes through the clutch on the other end of the curtain, the ribbon must be rotated a number of times around the roller in order to build up some tension. Use clothespins to keep everything together. Be inventive. When the ribbon is through the clutch its tension is fixed.

4. Attach the ribbon to the second curtain. This curtain stays in the camera. For the correct length of the ribbon compare with the old one.

5. Replacement of the spring-loaded roller. First replace at both ends the small rings, then put its end with the thick ring in its small hole on the right and then put on the left (the side of the aluminum hatch) the small metal rod in its slit. Replace the aluminum hatch, but do not fully tighten the screws yet. First give the spring some tension with a screwdriver (clockwise). Then tighten the small screws to fix the tension. The small metal pin is hold by the slot in the back of the aluminium hatch. The spring has enough tension when "B" or "Z" is working correctly. If you cannot get the speed selector to "B" or "Z" the ribbon is too short.

6. Have fun.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-14-2016   #4
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Thanks both,

Ah well, the second ribbon broke just as I was facing up to removing the lower roller (I shouldn't fiddle but really had no strength). I guess it doesn't make too much difference so long as I can get a good measurement off the remains. I may need reminding how it goes through the buckles on the lower blind. I will remove lower roller later and also order ribbon. This is more fun than a Leica...

(Brett, off topic, I had hoped to buy a Trojan but chose the Austin because life is too short. There are few cars with the level of mechanical ingenuity (or single mindedness) as a Trojan Utility...)
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-15-2016   #5
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Quick update...

Aluminium tensioning plate in place:

IMG_2793 by dralowid, on Flickr

Removed:

IMG_2794 by dralowid, on Flickr

There appeared to be little more than 1.5 turns of tension withn the blind right down, much less than I thought.

The pin etc

IMG_2799 by dralowid, on Flickr

...and the other end.

IMG_2796 by dralowid, on Flickr

I have been to the opticians for new glasses and ordered the tape. Now I wait. I was going to ask if there was anything else that I should be doing whilst the camera is open but decided best left...for now!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-15-2016   #6
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
So far so good.

It is best to work with a binocular loupe that fits on your head, like the nightviewer from "The silence of the lambs". I have been using a Zeiss (East German) for many years. A great instrument for any photographer.

It is good to study how the ribbon goes through the clutch. There it goes wrong easily. The only other thing you can do is to wait for the ribbon, but Aki Asahi is usually superfast.

The number of turns of the spring will be different with other ribbons. It is my experience that there is enough tension when "B" or "Z" is working. More tension gives problems with the high speeds. The shutter then closes ("caps") too early so the film will be only partly exposed.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-15-2016   #7
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Is this correct?

I have done it from memory using the old tape and taking into account signs of wear.

IMG_2800 by dralowid, on Flickr

Looking forward to practising my non existent sewing skills!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-15-2016   #8
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
This is how it must be, from Henry Scherers website



I think you've got it right.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-15-2016   #9
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Now that gives me an idea....
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-16-2016   #10
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Interesting, the Contax I shutter ribbons are significantly shorter than those of the later cameras. Rick Oleson notes 4 3/8ths between folds and it looks like mine are around about 3 7/8ths. I'll stick to the size of what was in the camera.

He (or someone else) also mentions around 15 turns of tension in the bottom roller and I 'think' I only counted 4-5...

But I reckon both relate to Contax II or III

This is a picture is of my 'jig' for working on the ribbons, not up to Henry Scherer's standards but it does allow the whole thing to lie flat.

IMG_2802 by dralowid, on Flickr

Last edited by Dralowid : 09-16-2016 at 09:23. Reason: better photo and text corrections
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-16-2016   #11
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Interesting! But don't forget that the ribbon goes under the spring-loaded rollers on the right first, alongside the curtain.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-16-2016   #12
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Erik,

I was just stretching it out to get the measurements.

I think I understand you but to be quite clear do you mean that the ribbon must go round the spring loaded rollers two or three times (with no tension) before it goes up and through the sliding 'buckles' on the lower curtain?

Thanks so much for your help so far!

Michael
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-16-2016   #13
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post
do you mean that the ribbon must go round the spring loaded rollers two or three times (with no tension) before it goes up and through the sliding 'buckles' on the lower curtain?
Yes, they stay close to the curtain. They have tension from the springs in the two small spring loaded rollers. So the roller at the bottom has three separate springs, one for the curtain and two for the ribbons. In this way the two curtains have their own separate tension, one directly and the other via the ribbons.

The curtains in a Leica have separate springs too.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-17-2016   #14
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Thanks, I will do things step by step when the ribbon arrives and seek your OK as I go!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-17-2016   #15
Hatchetman
Registered User
 
Hatchetman is offline
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 136
Boy if someone ever mastered fixing these old Contax's it would make a great part time job in retirement! There are plenty of them out there but nobody can fix them!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-17-2016   #16
Grytpype
Registered User
 
Grytpype is offline
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post
I think I understand you but to be quite clear do you mean that the ribbon must go round the spring loaded rollers two or three times (with no tension) before it goes up and through the sliding 'buckles' on the lower curtain?
l
Is this what you mean, Michael?



The above is a Contax II, and I don't have a Contax I, but every Contax II/III or Kiev I have stripped since I started noticing, has had approximately two turns of 'wrap' of the ribbon round its roller with the first curtain fully extended, and the ribbon slack.

Whether this is right or wrong, I cannot say, but I've always reassembled them this way.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #17
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post

I think I understand you but to be quite clear do you mean that the ribbon must go round the spring loaded rollers two or three times (with no tension) before it goes up and through the sliding 'buckles' on the lower curtain?
Before any confusion rises: It is required that the ribbons are first connected to the spring loaded rollers, but before they go through the "sliding buckles" they must be wound several times around the rollers. In that way they built up their tension. Once they are through the buckles their tension is fixed. Then you cannot change it anymore. They must get in this way as much tension as possible.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #18
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grytpype View Post
Is this what you mean, Michael?



The above is a Contax II,
On this picture I do not see the small spring loaded rollers for the ribbons.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #19
Grytpype
Registered User
 
Grytpype is offline
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 279
The ribbons in my picture are wrapped round the rollers, but the end-caps are removed. The spring spindle in the II/III looks exactly like the Contax I spindle in Michael's picture above, but the method of locking the axle when you tension it is different.

How many turns would you estimate that you wrap the ribbons round the rollers before running through the friction clutches, Erik? As I said, in my rather limited experience there normally seem to be a couple of turns in the later Contax and Kiev, but this still means that there will be perhaps 1 or 2 turns more tension on the 1st curtain spring than the 2nd curtain springs when the shutter is closed. Of course the 2nd curtain springs do have to extend much further than the 1st when you go to the slow speeds and B.

Steve.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #20
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grytpype View Post
How many turns would you estimate that you wrap the ribbons round the rollers before running through the friction clutches,
It seems that the ribbons in a Contax I are shorter than in a Contax II. When they are cut to their final length (so that the camera can be set at "B") they must be completely wound on the rollers before they go into the clutches. In that case they have their maximum tension. That is how I see it. I don't know how many turns that is.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #21
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
My first boss told me that trying to teach me was like talking to a brick wall....

Many thanks to you both. I reckon I understand...ish.

In order:
1) Sew ribbons on to rollers
2) Accurately measure ribbons from roller to the attachement point on the upper or second curtain and mark. (This measurement taken from old ribbon)
3) Roll slack onto rollers
4) Feed up through 'sliding buckles'
5) Sew onto upper or second curtain

Michael
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #22
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Yes, that is the theory. Now the practice.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #23
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Nothing can possibly go wrong...ever!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-18-2016   #24
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
We will see ...

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #25
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Ribbon arrived very quickly. Seems thin but I am no judge of ribbon. Shame it is black, makes it difficult to see what you are doing but no matter.

First pic, threaded through a roller. If you can find a stainless steel cable tie that is 3mm wide to help push it through life becomes a lot easier.

IMG_2805 by dralowid, on Flickr

Second pic, both rollers

IMG_2806 by dralowid, on Flickr

Third pic, ribbon sewn and wound round both rollers, fed through sliding buckle with no roller tension. Grey dots mark the 100mm length to match previous ribbons. Next job is to fold over at the mark and sew (with a tiny drop of glue).

IMG_2807 by dralowid, on Flickr

Problems? Apart from threading the ribbon through the rollers the other problem is that my sewing at the rollers has left a bump. Hoping it will be OK.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #26
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post
the other problem is that my sewing at the rollers has left a bump. Hoping it will be OK.
It is better to have the bump on the back of the curtain (towards the front of the camera) and press it flat with pliers. There they do less harm.

Great work, Michael! Looks fine.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #27
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post
the other problem is that my sewing at the rollers has left a bump. Hoping it will be OK.
At re-reading I understand that your problem is the bumps at the rollers. I was thinking you ment the bumps from the sewing at the second curtain. At the rollers too it helps when you press the bump with pliers to make it as small and flat as possible.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #28
Highway 61
Revisited
 
Highway 61's Avatar
 
Highway 61 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dralowid View Post
Apart from threading the ribbon through the rollers the other problem is that my sewing at the rollers has left a bump. Hoping it will be OK.
If the rollers caps are the same as the Contax II ones, they can be removed (too very small screws), so that fitting the ribbon ends through the rollers clutches is a breeze... and it makes things easier not to leave a bump at the sewing point.

I'm afraid you'll have to re-do the sewing - the bump will be a major problem.

Getting a sewing bump or not getting any depends on at which distance of the roller edge you are doing the sewing. If the sewing is too close to the roller edge : sewing bump.

If you leave a few millimeters between the sewing point and the roller edge, so that the ribbon can "naturally" make a loop : no sewing bump.

This is of course my own experience on several Contax II shutters.
__________________

  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #29
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 61 View Post
If the rollers caps are the same as the Contax II ones, they can be removed (too very small screws), so that fitting the ribbon ends through the rollers clutches is a breeze...
Yes, they have these small screws, but I did not know they could be removed. So you can tension them separate from the first curtain? Makes things very complicated!

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #30
Highway 61
Revisited
 
Highway 61's Avatar
 
Highway 61 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Straten View Post
Yes, they have these small screws, but I did not know they could be removed. So you can tension them separate from the first curtain? Makes things very complicated!

Erik.
You remove the rollers caps to very easily fit the folded ribbons ends around what then becomes a basic open lip, you sew, you put the rollers caps back on with the ribbons in place, and you're done. You haven't to do anything to the rollers springs !

Doing this, you don't have to hardly fit the ribbons ends through the tiny gap between the rollers caps and the rollers springs at the risk of making the ribbons ends fray or damaging the rollers springs.

And it makes things much much much easier to get ribbons being of the perfect length, because you sew at the rollers while easily maintaining the ribbons folded when they ought to be, without seeing your sewing job alterating the ribbons length.
__________________

  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #31
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Oh, I see. Well, I did not have much difficulty in getting the Aki Asahi ribbon in the slit (beginning from the big gap, other ribbons can be harder to get them in). When you remove these tiny screws, there is a risk of loosing them.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #32
Highway 61
Revisited
 
Highway 61's Avatar
 
Highway 61 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,414
"Zero risk" isn't any human thing...

Here is a pic of how looks some rollers sewings which I did using some acetate 3mm ribbon having the same thickness as the original Zeiss ribbon.

Not wanting to damage the shutter curtains blades while sewing I even slided the whole first curtain off the main drum (very easy, you just have to unglue the leather brake pad, which is a good opportunity to replace it if the leather is deteriorated, which is quite frequent).
__________________

  Reply With Quote

Old 09-22-2016   #33
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 61 View Post
I even slided the whole first curtain off the main drum (very easy, you just have to unglue the leather brake pad, which is a good opportunity to replace it if the leather is deteriorated, which is quite frequent).
Yes, on one of my cameras the curtain came loose; I could push it back into the slit. Now is seems to be OK (for how long I don't know).

In any case, the high speeds (the "sports group" in Zeiss speak) I can not get to work, but the other speeds work fine.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-23-2016   #34
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
Well we've got to this stage now. The sewing will win no prizes!

IMG_2811 by dralowid, on Flickr

The sewing at this end is clear of the 'sliding buckles'

IMG_2810 by dralowid, on Flickr

I've flattened the bumps at the roller ends and moved them over the larger slots in the roller so we live in hope!
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-23-2016   #35
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Looks fine, Michael. Good luck.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-23-2016   #36
Sarcophilus Harrisii
Brett Rogers
 
Sarcophilus Harrisii is offline
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,935
Interesting stuff, well done. I had a thought yesterday that had not previously occurred regarding the Aki ribbon thickness and curtain speed. Given that the curtain velocity is going to be the product of the spring tension and drum diameter, presumably the latter will be slightly smaller with the thinner Aki ribbons spooled around them. Trying to get my head around the significance (or lack of) this will have on the faster speeds. Anyone have any thoughts to share?
__________________

  Reply With Quote

Old 09-23-2016   #37
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcophilus Harrisii View Post
Given that the curtain velocity is going to be the product of the spring tension and drum diameter, presumably the latter will be slightly smaller with the thinner Aki ribbons spooled around them. Trying to get my head around the significance (or lack of) this will have on the faster speeds. Anyone have any thoughts to share?
When the ribbons are too short, there is the problem that you cannot get the dial on "B". When they are too long, it will be compensated by the tension of the small rollers. In any case I saw no difference between a little too long and far too long, but it is a German camera -"Wir in Deutschland machen alles genau" - so I don't know.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-23-2016   #38
oftheherd
Registered User
 
oftheherd's Avatar
 
oftheherd is offline
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,546
Thanks for the thread. Very informative.
__________________
My Gallery
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-24-2016   #39
Dralowid
Michael
 
Dralowid's Avatar
 
Dralowid is offline
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,164
So now we arrive at the next stage which may take a while.

The shutter is reassembled

B (or in this case Z) can be selected.

When fired both blinds run down without the shutter opening.
The same applies to the other slow 'red' speeds.

The mid range 'white' speeds allow the shutter to move more quickly however the blinds do not open. The escapement can still be heard.

The fast range of speeds are only selectable occasionally and the shutter does not open.

The advance/speed knob may need to be wound past its setting and back when winding on.

Not very easy to describe but it is as if something is 'out'. So I guess I must look for whatever holds back the second blind from moving?
  Reply With Quote

Old 09-24-2016   #40
Erik van Straten
Registered User
 
Erik van Straten's Avatar
 
Erik van Straten is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,248
Maybe the curtain gets stuck against the cover. First try to get the shutter running without the cover. Mind you, the shutter will only work well with the cover in place.

Another possibility is that the two curtains are stuck to one another. The second curtain must get in and out the first very easily.

Study everything very close. Don't give up, the problem can be a very small thing that you've overlooked.

How much tension did you put on the spring?

Are you sure the gear is not out of synch? Unlikely when you did not remove the top roller.

Erik.
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 21:29.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.