Old 04-16-2017   #41
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If I sell my M8 and M9, I may get the first $4000 towards an M10.
Raid, that was my initial thought for my MM. But it's the balance that's troubling. As much as I'd like one, I think my days of $6K+ cameras are over.

Of course, I've said that before, so who knows....

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Old 04-16-2017   #42
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Great photos. Great camera. I'd buy one but still happy with my M9 and MM. Unfortunately photos of the cat at play at night have to be monochrome which is not popular with my wife.
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Old 04-16-2017   #43
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Raid, that was my initial thought for my MM. But it's the balance that's troubling. As much as I'd like one, I think my days of $6K+ cameras are over.

Of course, I've said that before, so who knows....

John
Hi John,
I may never do it, but maybe I will one day. Not today. Selling the Summilux 75/1.4 may bring another $2500+.
I would be nearly "there".


If the M10 is a highly reliable camera, I can get away with having only one digital M camera. My latest iPhone would be my back-up. Life goes by too quickly! Enjoying it is a good move.
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Old 04-16-2017   #44
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If the M10 is a highly reliable camera, I can get away with having only one digital M camera. My latest iPhone would be my back-up. Life goes by too quickly! Enjoying it is a good move.
I hope it is highly reliable, too early to say! In my opinion (and of course always depending on individual shooting style) the 10 can be the only camera...a film back up ...and voilà, done

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Old 04-16-2017   #45
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Interesting. Then no clearance problems with using the DR at the close focus range? Great!
...
I think any clearance problem will crop up in getting out to infinity focus, where the lens is closest to the sensor. There was a post elsewhere in which the person had two DR lenses, one of which would not focus beyond 10m. So there are variations in lenses...
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Old 04-16-2017   #46
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Will a Nikon 35/1.8S mount correctly on the M10 with an adapter?
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Old 04-16-2017   #47
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The DR Summicron in normal range will focus out to about 10 feet before the RF cam starts excavating the M9 interior. Unlikely to be much different with the M10. Could be worse given it's more compact. The DR works fine in close range on my digital Ms and likely on M10 too.
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Old 04-16-2017   #48
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It would great if a M10 user could check this out, Richard. We need additional incentives to make such a purchase.
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Old 04-16-2017   #49
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Raid - What you want to know is in this thread.
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Old 04-17-2017   #50
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Thanks.
It is unclear why "he" has one DR that focuses to infinity and for the entire range, while his second DR has limited range focusing.
Someone else there used DR with goggles on the M10, and he reported this:

It fits perfectly and focuses to infinity
The goggles slide into place without any effort and there's no need to remove the plastic spacer. The parallax adjusted RF works perfectly
Close focus is perfectly usable with the EVF or Live View without goggles if you depress the little ball stop. No significant effort needed.
Lovely colour and sharp rendering. A couple of examples showing the FOV at 1m and at .46m REALLY useful.
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Old 04-17-2017   #51
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Raid - I don't have any infinity focus problems with my DR Summicron.
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Old 04-17-2017   #52
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That would be great news indeed for DR users.
Are you using the goggles?
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Old 04-17-2017   #53
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Yes, but focusing with the EVF. Much easier when handholding.
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Old 04-17-2017   #54
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I would suspect if you use the correct goggles. all is fine. The are goggles for early DR and goggles for late satin come ones. The are not interchangeable.

Some DR and some may not, as there are two versions. The optics are different if you look at them both. Early has heavy smooth bright chrome, latter has satin chrome like an M body.
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Old 04-18-2017   #55
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Love this camera!
One night shot, handheld from the first "roll" with my M10.

iso 1600, 1/60, probably F4

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Old 04-20-2017   #56
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The new Summaron 28 just arrived today. Here's one of first pictures I shot with it — I processed it in B&W because I read somewhere that it was particularly good for B&W, although I don't recall whether that referred to film of digital. Ian Watt noted that he suspected the lens was particularly good for film, but said that he hadn't shot it with digital.

I like the feeling of the picture below, but must note that I processed it with Silver Efex, and liked this version better than the B&W I made in Lightroom in terms of the contrast and the feeling of the light. So, not sure whether it's the lens of Silver Efex: I would say both.

Leica M10 | Summaron 28 | ISO 1600 | f/5.6 | 1/750 sec


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Old 04-21-2017   #57
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For sure considering the dark shadows and the strong light outside you and your camera did a good job
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Old 04-22-2017   #58
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Here is another photo with the new Summaron 28 f/5.6 and the M10, both is color and B&W, the latter processed with Silver Efex. Shot at ISO 100, f/8 and 1/125 sec. (I'm posing both version because some people have expressed interest in this).









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Old 04-22-2017   #59
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Have you tried the red filter in SEFx for that last B&W? I think it'd make the geometry pop more.
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Old 04-22-2017   #60
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Maggie - I used the yellow filter. I just tried again and the red filter didn't work that well — I found if I used the filter hue and strength sliders, an extreme move to the left on the hue and all the way to the right on the strength slider, then I got the face of the fence planks facing me good and dark, while the tops of the planks are bright white, with good contrast against the grass. However, the sky in the top middle becomes, inexplicably, much lighter, while detail lost in the cloud in the middle of the picture. I'll have to try again tomorrow.
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Old 04-22-2017   #61
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Here is another photo with the new Summaron 28 f/5.6 and the M10, both is color and B&W, the latter processed with Silver Efex. Shot at ISO 100, f/8 and 1/125 sec. (I'm posing both version because some people have expressed interest in this).
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I like the punchy Tri-X look of the B&W conversion. It's especially good on the white building planks and in the clouds top left.
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Old 04-23-2017   #62
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@mcfingon - Thanks.

@maggieo - Here it is with the SEFEX red filter:


Potomac, MD by Nowhere..man, on Flickr

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EDIT: This image has been reprocessed along the lines of maggie's suggestion in post #63
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Old 04-23-2017   #63
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Try backing off the red filter slider and maybe use a control point on the tree in the center to brighten it up and maybe punch up the contrast and/or structure.

I really like the image and it's just a few tweaks away from being great.
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Old 04-23-2017   #64
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maggio- thanks. I've done some dodging with control points as you suggest and may have to try to play some more with the red slider when I get some time.

There are several issue when you use SEFEX: one is whether to bring in the finished color picture, the original DNG, or the "flattened" (low contrast) version of the finished color picture. I generally find the latter works best. For example, in this picture, to get the fence planks dark, works best with the flattened picture.
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Old 04-23-2017   #65
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Mitch, I like your B&W conversions.

I've had my M10 for exactly 3 months and it is such a wonderful camera. Looking forward to seeing more of your images.

I have the original version of the 28/5.6 Summaron. It has been a fun little lens to shoot. Especially, shot into the sun.
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Old 04-23-2017   #66
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As far as the DR is concerned. I've had one since 2012 when I sent it to DAG to have the near helicoid milled down to fit the upcoming M240 (which I assumed would have LV).

The new M10 seems to have more clearance for the near portion of the DR helicoid. So, the DR seems to work fine on the M10 with the exception that there is variation in how far the near helicoid extends. It seems that some of the DR lenses might need a little of the helicoid filed off.

I've had the DR on my M10 for the last week and it is just a wonderful lens. Also, it is nice to shoot into the sun!
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Old 04-23-2017   #67
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I have the DR, so all that is left here is to get an M10.
It would have been easier for me to first have an M10, followed by finding a DR!
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Old 04-23-2017   #68
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maggio- thanks. I've done some dodging with control points as you suggest and may have to try to play some more with the red slider when I get some time.

There are several issue when you use SEFEX: one is whether to bring in the finished color picture, the original DNG, of the "flattened" (low contrast) version of the finished color picture. I generally find the latter works best. For example, in this picture, to get the fence planks dark, works best with the flattened picture.
Interesting! I haven't tried that. What format do you save the flattened version in?
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Old 04-23-2017   #69
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I have the DR, so all that is left here is to get an M10.
It would have been easier for me to first have an M10, followed by finding a DR!
You will love the DR and the M10. When you put it on the M10 mount it at the the stop of the distance portion (at the 3'4" mark). Then slowly turn towards infinity. It probably won't bind. If it does then the near helicoid is binding and you will have to file the near portion down just a little. It shouldn't matter much.

My lens doesn't have any portion of the near helicoid. Which is ok. It just means it will never work with the goggles... which is fine for me. I can use the LV for near. And, it will work on the M240.

Good luck.
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Old 04-23-2017   #70
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Interesting! I haven't tried that. What format do you save the flattened version in?
There was a video on this by a photographer in Hong Kong, but it is no longer on the web. The idea is the same as making a low contrast scan of film for further processing. It makes sense particularly when you want to process a color file into high contrast B&W.

Assuming you're in Lightroom, you simply take a "finished" color DNG or RAW file, i.e., one on which you've set the WB, Exposure and other settings in the LR "Basic Panel" and then apply the Flatten Preset that you've made. My preset has the following values, which I copied from the example in the video:

Contrast -71
Highlights -25
Shadows +37
Blacks +13

I also have the following settings in the HSL panel, but I don' remember whether that is by design or whether those setting happened to be in there when I made the preset:

Hue
-----
Yellow -38
Blue -17

Saturation
------------
Yellow -29
Blue - 39

Luminance
------------
Yellow -15

I generally apply the Flatten Preset to a DNG color file on which I done a quick basic processing. You don't need to save the flattened file: you simply bring it into the SEFEX plugin.

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Old 04-23-2017   #71
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Mitch, I like your B&W conversions.

I've had my M10 for exactly 3 months and it is such a wonderful camera. Looking forward to seeing more of your images.

I have the original version of the 28/5.6 Summaron. It has been a fun little lens to shoot. Especially, shot into the sun.
LightBender - Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, I was interested in the Summaron 28 because I saw shots with it taken directly into the sun, particularly some by Ian Watts. I bought it mainly because I thought it would be great for shooting into very bright and contrasty light. Also, I saw that it doesn’t create starbursts, which I dislike although some people love them. With the M10, as the f/5.6 maximum aperture should not be a problem, I’ll try it for street photography at night when I get back to Bangkok in October.
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Old 04-23-2017   #72
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Shoot. I don't use Lightroom.
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Old 04-23-2017   #73
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You can do the equivalent in Photoshop or other RAW developers. Just make a low contrast, flat image and use it in Silver Efex.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #74
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If I get an M10, I'll keep that in mind.

One plus of the M9-P is that its RAW files play exceptionally well with Nik Software, both Silver and Color Efex Pro. Oh, and their RAW Presharpener is amazing.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #75
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maggieo - That's the same with the M10 files; but I think that in both cases, particularly for B&W conversions, using a low contrast ("flat") file gives you more scope for B&W particularly when you want a high contrast look.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #76
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Leica M10, DR Summicron-50 , ISO 100. Again, I'm posting both a color and B&W version, as many people want to see M10 B&W conversions as well.








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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #77
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If you want a true rangefinder, Leica is the only game in town. With no competition, prices are what the market will bear. Lots of competition for the SL and S. Doubt sales for those models are robust.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #78
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ptpdprinter - Actually, this thread is aimed at impressions of the M10 rather than its price.

Anyone is welcome to post M10 photos.


M10 | Summaron f/5.6 28mm | ISO 1600

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #79
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Quote:
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ptpdprinter - Actually, this thread i.e. aimed at impressions of the M10 rather than its price.

Anyone is welcome to post M10 photos.

M10 | Summaron f/5.6 28mm | ISO 1600
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This is actually a very lovely photo. The circular window in the house behind also picks up the cupboard handle plate. Intentionally or otherwise, very nice
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #80
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Nice shots and good information Mitch, thanks for posting.

cheers, michael
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