First roll with my first rangefinder: Kiev 4A

[davidtan]

Many thanks for the comments in my previous thread, which eventually steered me towards buying a Kiev 4A and Helios-103 lens from Fedka. I took the set out for some shots over the past week or so, having loaded it up with Kodak Ektar 100.

This is my first roll with a rangefinder, though not necessarily my first use of one. I've fondled many different rangefinders in shops and flea markets, and I've shot a few exposures with a Leica M7 belonging to a photographer I met in Coney Island. So diving into an old FSU rangefinder wasn't a particularly high hurdle; it was, however, still a very unique experience.

Of course, the photos:

















The only issue I've had so far is with what appears to be a faint light leak in certain photos. In landscape orientation, it's on the lower left; in portrait orientation, on the lower right. Is this something I can fix myself, or should I send in the body for a replacement at Fedka?

[wolves3012]

Nice photos, although some of them look a bit soft for a Helios 103. Possibly you're a touch off on focus with those? As for the light leak, it's hard to spot and I would not have noticed it. Check the fit of the back towards the eyepiece because that would be roughly where the leak is. Check the negs to see if the leak extends into the sprocket-hole area, that would suggest a body leak rather than shutter (which it doesn't look like anyway).

If the fit is not excellent, you can get some thin black wool or similar and fit it into the channel on the body where the back fits. It's not supposed to be necessary but it should fix a small leak. Or you could exchange if it bothers you enough.

[Coldkennels]

I was about to say that maybe it was slight lens flare and that you should always use a hood with these things, but it looks too regular to be a flare, so I suspect you may be right, and that Wolves' suggestions are, as always, bang on the money.

That said, the validity of the lens hood suggestion stands.

Great photos, though. Looks like you've taken to the Kiev like a duck to water. I particularly like the portraits; an interesting mix of characters that you've photographed well.

[davidtan]

Thanks for the advice on the light leak. I can't exactly open up the body right now, since I've already put in a roll right after I was done with this one. In retrospect, not a very smart thing to do for a camera of unknown condition (though I had confidence in Yuri's assessment of the the body).

The Helios is very sharp for me. I think certain portrait shots are softer than they had to be due to the fact that I've been focusing the RF patch on the contours of the faces, rather than on the eyes. In certain lighting conditions, it's very hard for me to focus the patch on minute features.

I'm currently using a hood on the Helios, though I still avoid shooting against the light with it. Maybe with some more nerve, I'll try to open up the lens and color the aperture blades in with a sharpie.

[soelin]

Nice photo. How did you scan them?

[PatrickCheung]

great photos... the helios IS sharp, as you said. damn. now I want one again

[davidtan]

Originally Posted by soelin

Nice photo. How did you scan them?

Scanned with a Canoscan 8400F using Vuescan.

On Vuescan, I would simply preview, right-click on gray-white areas for the software's auto white balance, and adjust the white-point until I get rid of blown highlights.

[PatrickCheung]

I just skimmed through your blog... some great work there

[xayraa33]

Nice photos !

I always found that the Helios 103 to be superior to the J-8 when using colour film.

[davidtan]

Originally Posted by PatrickCheung

great photos... the helios IS sharp, as you said. damn. now I want one again

Currently $38.50 on Fedka (I think I bought mine for around $20+). Worth the price, I'd say.

[PatrickCheung]

For sure! If I didn't have a whole lot of travelling to do this summer, I'd definitely drop the $40!

[wolves3012]

Originally Posted by davidtan

The Helios is very sharp for me. I think certain portrait shots are softer than they had to be due to the fact that I've been focusing the RF patch on the contours of the faces, rather than on the eyes. In certain lighting conditions, it's very hard for me to focus the patch on minute features.

Just to point out, I was being constructively very critical in saying some shots looked soft - they aren't actually bad. I find the Helios very sharp and yes, it is a little flare-prone. One thing you have certainly got the hang of is framing portraits - often hard to get used to the parallax errors on an RF.

If you search either the Brian Sweeney or Optics & Lenses forums you'll find the "sharpie" trick. It's not that bad if you're a dab hand with small screwdrivers and the like, just be careful with the glass bits. I've done mine but have yet to use it again so I can't say if there's a big difference but Brian thinks so and I'd trust his opinion!

EDIT: If you've loaded the camera up again, it would be worth putting black electrical tape along the upper body/back joint, to see if it's leak-free with that in place.

[davidtan]

Oh, I wasn't taking your comment badly; I was just noticing in my own technique how I was focusing the RF patch. Yes, I've taken into account the parallax error for close-up shots; I just tilt the camera in the direction of the lens ever so slightly.

I'll wait and see if my hood is helping with cutting the flare. I'm a bit timid about fiddling with mechanical stuff (even though I went to a "technical" high school with mandatory design and machining classes).

The tape on the back gap sounds like a good idea. I already have the second roll under way, but I can still check after it's done to see if the tape did the trick.

[bgetty]

you've taken to rangefinder shooting well! some excellent work here, and on your blog. colors, tones and choice of subjects really are astounding.

[davidtan]

All credit for colors and tones are given to Kodak Ektar 100, my new favorite film. Too bad my scanner doesn't take it too kindly when it's underexposed. If there was only an Ektar 400...

[reagan]

You're off to a really good start there. I believe the Kiev is a Keeper.

Well ... that's too bad. You've got great photos and had fun making them. With an FSU.

Yet another young hopeful has fallen headlong down the sLiPpeRy sLoPe oF RuSsiAn iRoN. You might as well go ahead and
(a) clear off a shelf to make way for the next 30 FSUs that are sure to follow.
(b) Start putting together your reasons why you like eating in front of the TV anyway since your friends and loved ones (hereafter known as "the Comrades") won't be able to use the dining room table that is destined to be covered with teeeeny camera parts from yet another *project*.
(c) Make that list of excuses to be used in the future when you call in sick at work ... on those days when "the Postman Cometh." And don't forget to
(d) empty the fruit and vegetable drawers in the frig, clearing space for cartons and cartons of film that soon will arrive.

You're in good company. There's plenty of us here to encourage you right over the edge.

P.S. ~ Really like the portraits. Well done.

[davidtan]

The FSU board does seem like one of the more active camera-specific boards on RFF; a good sign of the popularity of the cameras.

BTW, I just took a look at my negatives; the light leaks do show up on the sprocket-hole areas, suggesting that the source is a body leak. Gonna tape up the seams on the back, but is there a more elegant way to get rid of the leaks?

[reagan]

The tape helps you determine exactly [or close] where the light leak is. Then you can work out a more permanent and *attractive* way to deal with it. It may include making some sort of gasket, applying a sealant, etc. Luckily, your leak certainly isn't so bad. I've got a couple right now that couldn't be plugged with five gallon bucket of cement!

Hang in there!

[Tom hicks]

David wonderful images , looks like you have a nice one . good sharp images and comps.