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FSU Former Soviet Union RF This forum is for the Former Soviet Union rangefinder cameras, especially the many and various Fed, Zorki, and Kiev.

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Old 01-05-2005   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by RML
I'm wondering what makes a VF bright or not. Why are the Bessa and Leica VFs so much brighter than the FED's? Obviously the size of the window ill have something to do with it, but what else? Would resilvering the mirror or using clearer glass make a difference? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be too difficult to make the FED's VF at least a bit brighter than it is now....
VF/RF brightness relates partly to the quality of the components, and also to the design of the rangefinder optics.

In a combined VF/RF, the rangefinder image has to be "inserted" into the viewfinder image path. To make this work in the usual coincident-image design, there needs to be a semi-reflecting mirror (aka beamsplitter) in the path, so that both the viewfinder and rangefinder images can be combined together.

The inexpensive way to do this is to have the semi-reflecting mirror cover the entire finder area; that's how they do it on a Fed (and most other RF cameras that have a rangefinder patch with blurry edges.) This reduces overall finder brightness, because the part of the viewfinder outside the RF patch is also only semi-transparent, and doesn't pass all the light.

A more expensive and elaborate way of doing this is seen on some Canon and Nikon RF cameras. In these, the beamsplitter was masked before the reflecting material was coated onto it, so that it's ONLY semi-reflecting in roughly the area of the RF patch. (Looking at the beamsplitter from the front, often you can see vertical and horizontal 'gunsight' marks left by the wires that supported the mask.)

This allows the rest of the finder area to be brighter. The downside is that since the beamsplitter, RF image, and viewfinder image are focused at different distances, the RF patch not only has a blurry edge, but often a dark halo around it (from the unsilvered area of the beamsplitter.)

The best but really expensive way to do it, as used on Leicas starting with the M3 as well as on the Minolta CLE and the Bessas, is to use a complex optical system inside the RF/VF module. This incorporates a system of lenses and prisms that allow the designer to achieve focus of the viewfinder image, the framelines, the rangefinder image, and the edges of the rangefinder mask, all at the same point. This gives a sharp-edged rangefinder patch and also allows the semi-transparent area of the beamsplitter to affect ONLY the patch. This allows full brightness for the rest of the focusing area. (Actually the rest of the area must still be somewhat semi-transparent, so that the framellines can be reflected into it, but the brightness loss is not as great.)

Take a look at a diagram of a Leica or Bessa RF/VF module, and you'll see how complex it is. That's one reason a modern RF camera is so much more expensive than a similarly-featured SLR!


As to trying to make the finder image brighter in a Fed or similar camera: You probably don't want to do it! You could certainly brighten the image by polishing off some of the semi-reflecting material from the beamsplitter. But that would make the rangefinder patch harder to see, because there would be less material to reflect it into the finder view.

Your best bet probably is simply to make sure that the optical surfaces inside the finder are as clean as possible. Use great care if you decide to clean the beamsplitter itself, because the semi-reflecting coating rests on the glass surface and is easy to remove by accident.
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Old 01-05-2005   #42
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Old 02-16-2005   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Petteri
I also would like to know if Zorki cameras are similiar from inside ? I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?

I also have a Moskva 2 camera which has a similiar problem, but thatīs a different story, I think...

nice to "see" ya here, Petteri!
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Old 02-17-2005   #44
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Thanks a lot~!It was very useful for me~!
But my fed-2 seem some problem now.
It will sound "sqeeze" when I push the shutter release.
Don't know what happen on it.
But when I push Harder or the shutter speed more lower.
The sound will disappear.
Can Any one help me about this question.
Thanks alot
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Old 02-17-2005   #45
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Probably it would need a bit of lubrication - I have one FED 2 that also makes squeaking noises at 1/100 and 1/250, but not at other speeds, and my other FED 2 is really silent (but that one was CLA'd by Oleg...)

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Old 02-18-2005   #46
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Thank you Roman
I will send it to my other photomate for a certain check.
Who knows what happen next with FSU-made Fed-2.
But I will very sad now......
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Old 04-26-2005   #47
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Holy hats! Is this thread going to be the top one on the list FOREVER????
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Old 04-26-2005   #48
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Originally Posted by C-Petteri
I also would like to know if Zorki cameras are similiar from inside ? I have a Zorki 1, which rangefinder needs some tuning (distances just donīt match), but I donīt know if I have to remove the top plate to fix that problem or not. Any help ?

I also have a Moskva 2 camera which has a similiar problem, but thatīs a different story, I think...


Zorki and FED 1 adjustments are the same, as far as aligning the rangfinder spot.

http://home.att.net/~wayne.cornell/camera/repair.htm
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Old 07-02-2005   #49
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That was very usefull..Really.
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Old 07-24-2005   #50
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I need a quick help, the winder isn't moving off!
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Old 07-24-2005   #51
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I removed the screw, the winder itself seemed to be locked in..

I mean yes i can't unscrew the knob..
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Last edited by nomade : 07-24-2005 at 06:07.
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Old 07-24-2005   #52
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Alright, i'll do that now..thanks.
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Old 07-24-2005   #53
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Well a friend of mine did it for me, it seems that i don't have enough force to do that...!!
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Old 07-25-2005   #54
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Work was on halt yesterday, i found out that there's missing gear...It was sunday shops were close..I'll resume today. But the lens screws are irritating..
It's awfull being new on the job
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Old 07-27-2005   #55
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All is back together now, everything is in place...And working.

It feels much better now...It also feeels good to be that familiar with ur camera.
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Old 08-26-2005   #56
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I don't own a FED but I can certainly appreciate the effort here. Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2005   #57
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I was seduced last night by a black FED 2 from the baying auction house. I hope that it is quicker than the last shipment from the FSU, otherwise it will get caught up in the Christmas postal mess. It's comforting to know that there is so much intellectual knowledge around on this camera, which I must admit has considerable appeal. The photo on e-bay shows the serial no as being 315685. On the assumption that this is correct, and to date I have no reason to belief otherwise, is there any way of finding out what year it was produced?
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Old 10-11-2005   #58
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No, the SN on a Fed has no discernable relationship to the year of manufacture. If the lens is original equipment that might give you a clue, or maybe not. On a Fed-2, the best you can do is to identify the sub-model based on the features and then research the time span when that particular sub-model was in production. Parts are easily interchangeable on Fed's and the Soviets practiced incremental product development so even that can be uncertain.

-Paul
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Old 10-11-2005   #59
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Thanks - I noted the earlier reference to model variants in Laika's post. I'll wait until I get it in my hot sticky hands.
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Old 12-08-2005   #60
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hello
in respose to which russian rangefinder , for me the zorki 6 fits the bill, i have tried a zorki 4 and it way cool but messing around with the removable back and the loose spool just got to be problematic. If you can get your hand on the Olympus rc35 rangefinder go for it because its all time favorite compact street shooter. Russian Lens are wow for the price jupiter 8 nice, happy clicking

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Old 01-02-2006   #61
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Getting back, for a moment, to Laika's first post with the thumbnail of the two Fed bodies. I quite clearly have the later model. However, the later model top plate by the shutter release shows a "B" to "C", whereas the earlier model shows "n" to "c". But my late model shows "n" to "c". Otherwise everything about the design is clearly late model.

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Old 01-28-2006   #62
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Nice job! Iīll definitely have to try that out. I have a FED-2 body with Jupiter-8, but the VF/RF is almost useless because of the dirt and misalignment. Iīll have to borrow some tools from work and try this out!

Thanks!

p.s. my fed-2: http://www.kameralaukku.com/galleria...teemu/fed2.jpg
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Old 03-22-2006   #63
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Laika,


Wow, Great job!
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Old 04-04-2006   #64
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Just thought I should throw out a big thanks to Laika! These instructions were great!
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Old 04-10-2006   #65
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Thumbs up

Laika, I just wandered into this thread and read from the start. Wonderful presentation. I have a FED 2C and it is hard to see through the RF. I guess next step is following your instructions.

There is an alternative to Micro Tools for the spanner and other tools. Ed Romney has a good selection as well as repair books and manuals. The spanners are at

http://www.edromney.com/
His home page is:

http://www.edromney.com/

His Spanners are less expensive than Micro's

Again, Laika thanks for the effort.

Michael
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Old 04-28-2006   #66
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Hi, great thread. I would just like to add some info that I encountered when servicing the VF/RF of my Fed 2. If you remove the viewfinder prism for cleaning it is easy to replace it on a slightly different angle. This happened to me and after I reassembled the camera I could not adjust the rangefinder to infinity by quite a large amount. It took me a while to realise that the viewing prism was the problem. I would recommend setting the horizontal adjusting screw about midway, loosening the two screws holding the viewing prism, lock the lens on infinity and go outside and adjust the rangefinder to infinity by adjusting the angle of the viewing prism. After tightening the two screws again infinity will probably be off but should be easily adjustable with the horizontal adjustment screw. Hope this info is useful.
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Old 11-03-2006   #67
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When doing this cleaning procedure to the fed 2, I urge you to try the finder with the diopter control and eyepiece left out. Slap it together and look through just to see if you like it- I have done this to one of my feds and it's amazing the difference in brightness with those elements gone. I can't remember now, but I had to make a baffle or something around the rewind shaft to make up for the missing lever..
Also since there's no eyepiece any more, there's dust to worry about, not that the fed is super-sealed to begin with.
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Old 11-13-2006   #68
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Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like to adjust the cam on the back of the lens?
I'm a lens killer from way back and I'd like to get this right.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laika
Last of all you need to check and adjust as required the RF on your camera. The basic adjustment is to remove the RF cover and using a small screwdriver rotate the inner RF lens until the vertical adjustment is correct in the viewfinder. Now set the lens to infinity and adjust the RF screw behind the cover screw (see image) until the RF shows correct infinity focus on an object in the distance (I use the moon), that’s the basic adjustment but it doesn’t take into account any variation in close focusing. To adjust a close focus error you need to adjust the cam that rests on the back of the lens as well. This is how I go about it (after setting infinity). I measure off 2M on a table and stand a book or video cassette case up to focus on, then check the lens reading, say it’s off by “X” amount. Now with my padded jaw pliers turn the cam in one direction a small amount (sorry I forget which way does what at the mo), now you must reset the infinity focus again (it will have changed), now recheck the close focus again, at this point you will know if you turned the cam in the right direction or not. Now repeat this process over and over until both the close focus and infinity are correct…. Done.

Note the different shaped cams: the pie shaped of the later models and the tear drop shape of the early models.

Phew
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Old 01-27-2007   #69
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Hello Laika,
Many thanks for the tutorial. You have made me want to clean the top of my Zorki 1.
Do the same guidelines apply?
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Old 04-08-2007   #70
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Oh, my!... I'm waiting on a Fed-2 in the mail. Laika, this is so great!
And, my RFF buddy Ruben, on the other side of town, has 'hands of gold.'

My Fed-2 is from a good Seller at a reasonable price... but, who knows?
Who knows what the use history is, and what's inside?!? I may never
have to do this... yet, knowledge is power ,and I have good hands...
too ;-)

Thanks again, Aussie mate,
Cheers, mike
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Old 04-25-2007   #71
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This is a great source of info' and assistance.I seem to recall that it has been put on another site as a PDF File.Can anyone tell me where to find it.

Thanks,
Brian.
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Old 09-29-2007   #72
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Thank you Laika

I use you guide to open my FED3 type a And it is very easy open

Big THANK
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Old 10-24-2007   #73
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In case someone needs to know how to calibrate the rangefinder on FED-2 for close-focus:

Read post number 17 of this thread and see the following picture:

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Old 12-27-2007   #74
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Thanks

I am buying a Fed 2 D (1958) in the next few weeks..This DIY is a great insight of the insides of these. I had a Zorki 1, and a Kiev 4, But I like the Fed 2 better for a long base RF. This and another Fed 2 thread has given me FSU Gas -- AGAIN --

I guess I need to get a 50/1.5 also for this baby !! Or a nice 35mm f/1.8 Canon when I rob a bank to pay for it

Or Both

Peter
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Old 12-27-2007   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlw

The inexpensive way to do this is to have the semi-reflecting mirror cover the entire finder area; that's how they do it on a Fed (and most other RF cameras that have a rangefinder patch with blurry edges.) This reduces overall finder brightness, because the part of the viewfinder outside the RF patch is also only semi-transparent, and doesn't pass all the light.


As to trying to make the finder image brighter in a Fed or similar camera: You probably don't want to do it! You could certainly brighten the image by polishing off some of the semi-reflecting material from the beamsplitter. But that would make the rangefinder patch harder to see, because there would be less material to reflect it into the finder view.

Your best bet probably is simply to make sure that the optical surfaces inside the finder are as clean as possible. Use great care if you decide to clean the beamsplitter itself, because the semi-reflecting coating rests on the glass surface and is easy to remove by accident.
Actually this is incorrect except for the FED 1 and Zorki 1, C, 2 and 2C models and the FED 5C. All other models use a beam splitter made from two triangular prisms glued together. The reflecting surface is the interface between the two and it is neither half-silvered nor accessible. Beyond cleaning the external optical faces it is not possible to improve the brightness of the VF image. The FED 5C has a partial splitter, in the centre only, so has a much brighter VF with no loss of contrast. The early models (FED 1, Zorki 1, C, 2, and 2C) do have a half-silvered splitter and this is very delicate indeed.
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Old 03-17-2008   #76
moving_electron
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I sent an email today to the site folks letting them know that the thumbnails and links to images in this tutorial are missing as of the server change. Hopefully they will return as this thread is excellent with the accompanying images.
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Old 03-17-2008   #77
moving_electron
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I used this repair thread and excellent tutorial to clean out a Fed2b. But the Fed also had the diopter adjustment jammed. I have heard that mentioned in a few places. The symptom is that when one moves the diopter adjust lever all the way in one direction it gets "stuck".

The cause is that when the moving diopter correcting lens is all the way back it can be too far back for the lever to catch it properly so that it can move it forward again. The fix was easy. The square diopter lens (moving lens) was bent a tad forward. I just bent it a slight amount back from 90 degrees so that the top hit the stop slightly before the bottom. Therefore the bottom was slightly moved out when the lens is all the way back. Voila the lever has enough space to catch the moving lens properly. The amount tilted back from vertical is very slight but important at least on my camera.
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Old 04-12-2008   #78
Laika
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After the server change the images on the first page were lost so I have reloaded them. While digging around to find the images I came across these as well, someone may find them useful.

Two different types of film counter tension springs



Strap lug detail




Multi part image

1. FED2 fitted with a FED5 fixed spool (interchangeable)
2. Standard FED2 removable spool
3. Lug that holds the spool in place
4. Spool removed
5. Film loaded on spool
6. Spool and film loaded in camera

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Last edited by Laika : 04-12-2008 at 06:32. Reason: Updated images
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Old 05-06-2008   #79
wallace
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Hello Laika,

thank you for your wonderful service manual! I have purchased a FED 2 that seems to work very well. The finder is clear and bright enough but wearing glasses makes it impossible for me to see the frame. Without glasses I can't read the scales on the lens, so I'dlike to use an external finder for my 35mm and 50mm lenses. The russian finder I own doesn't fit. So do you have an idea how to solve this problem. Would the Voigtländer finders fit? (terrible, the CV finders costs as much as 5 Feds!) Can you tell me how much the internal finder shows of the actual image? How do you use the camera when shooting objects at close distance? (parallax correction). So many questions....

Wallace
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Old 05-06-2008   #80
mnmleung
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Laika, thanks for the new photos
moving_electron, thanks for getting the original photos back!
... looking for a FED-2 to take apart :-) ming
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