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Rolleinar?
Old 06-06-2007   #1
Kyle
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Rolleinar?

Anyone using the Rolleinar close up attatchments on their Rolleiflex? I'm really intrigued by them, but I don't want to drop the money on them if they're junk and just degrade the image quality too much. I've done some searching, but mostly I just find information about them, not any user experiences. I'm really loving the TLR way of seeing things. I've only had my Rollei a couple of weeks, but haven't shot this much in a LONG time. Its too bad my local lab isn't able to scan 120, but my plan is to get a flatbed soon anyways, so its not an issue. The Rolleinar attatchments seem like a good way to keep experimenting with the 6x6 format.

Also, just to clarify, there are three seperate Rolleinar kits for each different bayonet mount, correct? My Rolleiflex uses Bay II, are there three Rolleinar attatchments I can get or only one? Hopefully that makes sense...
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Old 06-06-2007   #2
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Yep, three different strength Rolleinars for each bay size. #1 is good for close-up portraits and #2 & #3 focus progressively closer.

I love 'em, image quality is good. Stick one or two in your bag & the Rollei becomes a very versatile rig. Here's a few examples (first one is a print scan so quality isn't that great):

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Old 06-06-2007   #3
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I've got the Rolleinar 1 in Bay II. The little I've used it I've not seen a degradation in the image. It's a good accessory to have. If memory serves me, there are two versions of the Rolleinar. The old model has 3 parts, the newer model just 2.

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Old 06-07-2007   #4
Kyle
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Thanks for the input, guys.

Wayno, great shots there. The expression on the child's face is great!
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Old 06-07-2007   #5
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The thicker piece (this may be in 2 parts) which corrects for parallax goes on the viewing lens, the thinner on the taking lens.

Rolleinar 2 on Rolleicord Vb (Bay 1) - shot in colour, B&W converted and soft focus added in Photoshop.

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Old 06-07-2007   #6
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Very nice, Nick!

Now I'm going to need to pick up one of the Rolleinar sets...
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Old 06-07-2007   #7
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If I'm not mistaken, Richard Avedon did most of his portrait work with a Rolleiflex and a Rolleinar.

JT
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Old 06-07-2007   #8
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That's a great portrait Nick! Here's another Rolleinar shot from a few days ago:

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Old 06-07-2007   #9
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Perhaps it's a bit blasphemous to say here (Rolleis tend to have a similar following to leicas in terms of purist attitudes) but I've used a Yashica bay 30 close up filter on my Rolleiflex when I had one. I now use the Yashica Close Up filter sets (I have a #1 and a #2) on my Minolta Autocord and I really like the results. The Yashica filters only came in Bay I (Bay 30 is the same thing) so it may not be the option for you, but they're much, much cheaper (I think I paid $12 for each and the image quality is quite good).

Here are a couple of shots I took in Costa Rica last summer (with the Rollei):

http://www.andrewroy.com/node/364
http://www.andrewroy.com/node/357

And one closer to home:

http://www.andrewroy.com/current/lookingandseeking/17

Sorry for the links but, I've never inserted an image into a post (I'm sure it's easy to do, I'm just lazy right now).

Just my two cents, but I'd say don't be afraid to try a non-Rollei brand (if they exist in Bay II or Bay III is another question) and whatever brand you choose, the close up filters add some fun to shooting TLR (which is already one of my favorite ways to shoot).
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Last edited by andrew : 06-07-2007 at 17:45.
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Old 06-07-2007   #10
Wayno
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Nice Andrew - btw missing an "h" at the start of your second link. I had a Walz brand set that I passed on to somebody else & he's getting great results with it, so there's another option.
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Old 06-07-2007   #11
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Thanks Wayno, and I fixed the typo (and another one I found). I've heard that the non-Rollei/off brand tele and wide adapters have more image quality issues than the close up filters, but I've never used any.
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Old 06-07-2007   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew
I've heard that the non-Rollei/off brand tele and wide adapters have more image quality issues than the close up filters, but I've never used any.
Me neither, and the Rollei ones (Mutars?) cost a million dollars... That's when I reach for the Mamiya C330
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Old 06-07-2007   #13
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Bud Green has some fab stuff on Flickr with all three Rolleinars, I think. Those photos are what made me start looking for them.

I have the Rolleinar I in Bay III for my 2.8F but haven't really played with it much. I paid $40 for my set, seen here (is it possible for me to post this photo in more threads? not sure):

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Old 06-07-2007   #14
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I have the Rolleinar 1 in Bay I and the Minolta equivalent (which yields really nice results with an Autocord). I've been using the Rolleinar 2, Bay II with the 3.5F this past week to take floral closeups. I probably should have put the camera on a tripod but the closeup attachments are so darn convenient it's fun to just get out there and shoot. I need to find a 1 or 2 in Bay III now, for my new to me 2.8E.
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Old 06-08-2007   #15
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Anyone wanna sell me a Rolleinar?
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Old 06-09-2007   #16
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I have the Rolleinar #1 in Bay I and Bay III for my 2 Rolleis. I haven't found any significant image degradation in practical shooting but as with any lens attachment there must be some if you've got a test bench or are into shooting charts. Most of the aberrations are probably near the edges so if I'm shooting something with detail throughout I'll tend to stop down some. Portraits aren't a problem wide open, except that from a perspective standpoint (facial proportions) I prefer to hang back some and crop most of the time.
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Old 06-10-2007   #17
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wow Melanie your 2.8F is absolutely beautiful!
What about parallax?
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Old 06-10-2007   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolleistef
What about parallax?
The framing is corrected by the prism in the viewing part of the Rolleinar, but you still have to be careful because of the different perspective of the two lenses. What you see on the ground glass is not exactly what you get on film.
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Old 06-10-2007   #19
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oh there's a prism? How does it work?
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Old 06-10-2007   #20
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The part of the Rolleinar that goes on the viewing lens has a prism (as well as the close-up lens) that allows the viewing lens to achieve the same framing as the taking lens (this is why that half of the Rolleinar is much thicker than the other half). The viewing part of the Rolleinar has to be correctly oriented (red dot on top) for the prism to work correctly. The prism does a pretty good job of correcting the parralax error, but as I noted above it's not perfect because the two lenses still have a different perspective on the subject.
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Old 12-25-2009   #21
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Do we need to compensate the exposure when using these Rolleinars ?

I guess maybe increasing 1EV is correct??

Anyone knows about this?

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Old 12-25-2009   #22
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No exposure compensation needed with Rolleinars. They work just like diopters. No extra extension "ring", no darkening. Just standard exposure.
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Old 12-25-2009   #23
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I love mine!... I have all three and don't see a difference in sharpness... here's one taken with the #2 on my 124g:

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Old 12-28-2009   #24
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A shot with a Rolleinar (I think it was #2).

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Rollinar Closeup lens
Old 12-28-2009   #25
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Rollinar Closeup lens

It is my understanding that there are 3 different sets of Closeup attachments (mine happen to be Vivitar.)
Lens set 1 is focusing between 18 and 39 inches
2 is for 13 to 18 inches
3 is for 8 to 13 inches.
Mine work great when I have used them.
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Rollinar type lens
Old 12-28-2009   #26
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Rollinar type lens

[UI have a complete set of Vivitar Oarallax correcting closeup sets for a bay 1 lens. they are as follows:
Number 1 permits focusing from 39 to18 inches
Number 2 permits focusing from 18 to 13 inches
Number 3 permits forucing from 13 to 8 inches.
The last time I used them was about 3 years ago and they worked fine.
Will sell the whole set including the leather cases (3) and the instructions for $50.00
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Old 12-28-2009   #27
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$50 is a fantastic price! I had to pay more for my set...

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Old 12-28-2009   #28
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I have the three Rolleinars for the 2.8 models, but I hardly evry use these optics. This thread has encouraged me to put them to use.
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Old 12-29-2009   #29
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The Rolleinar are diopters that correspond to their index or number:
Rolleinar 1 = 1 diopter, i.e. the infinity focus is shifted to 1/1 meter = 100 cm; the Rolleinar 2 is a 2 diopter lens, so the infinity focus point is shifted to 1/2 meter = 50 cm. And for the Rolleinar 3, infinity shifts to 1/ ... well, did you get the simple math? --- to 1/? meter (Solution 1/3 meter = 33 cm).

And since the Rolleis have a closest focus distance of 1 meter (= 1 diopter), the Rolleinar 1 will focus down to 1 + 1 diopter (Lens full extension plus Rolleinar 1 diopter addition) = 2 diopters or focusing from 1 m to 50 cm.
The Rolleinar 2 from 1/2 (50 cm) to 1/(2+1) = 1/3 meter= 33 cm (2 diopters from the Rolleinar 2 plus the 1 from lens board extension).

And the Rolleinar 3 from 1/3 m to 1/4 m = 25 cm.

Now you can also add two diopters such as the 1 and 2 to get object distances from the front of the lens between 1/(1+2) to 1/(1+1+2) meters or from 1/3 m = 33 cm to 1/4 m = 25 cm etc.

Diopter arithmetic is so simple! The prismas on the viewing lens will line up and there is much fun to be had here. Enjoy!

Minimal object distance from front of lens with all 3 Rolleinars is 1/(1+1+2+3) = 1/7 m = 14 cm. With an 8 cm (80 mm) lens that is almost a 1:1.6 reduction and produces an image of a size 9 by 9 cm square in reality on the MF film.
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Is this the correct set up for the Rolleinar 3-piece sets?
Old 05-02-2010   #30
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Question Is this the correct set up for the Rolleinar 3-piece sets?

I just acquired Rolleinar 1 and 2 sets. Each set has 3 parts: A prism with the black rim, and two identical thinner lenses, which I assume are the diopters. I think one of the diopters needs to be attached in front of the prism on the viewing lens, and the other diopter goes on the taking lens. Is this the correct set up? Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2010   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisson View Post
I just acquired Rolleinar 1 and 2 sets. Each set has 3 parts: A prism with the black rim, and two identical thinner lenses, which I assume are the diopters. I think one of the diopters needs to be attached in front of the prism on the viewing lens, and the other diopter goes on the taking lens. Is this the correct set up? Thanks!
Yes, you need one Rolleinar on the taking lens and one on the viewing lens, in addition on the viewing lens you need the Rolleiparkeil (prism). be sure to orientate the red dot on the prism at the top...

Really easy to use.. enjoy!

Nathan
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Old 05-02-2010   #32
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oh , I see that you ask if the diopter goes in front of the prism.. no its the other way around... the diopter on the viewing lens first, then the prism...
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Old 05-02-2010   #33
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Nathan,
Yes, that is what I meant, first the rolleinar, then prism on the viewing lens.

Thank you for clarifying this! Now to try it out!

Gary
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Old 05-03-2010   #34
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Could anybody can help me to indetify with bayonet got my rolleiflex? According to serial number and appearance it should be 3.5 C, it has Tessar lens, so it should be bay I, but I'm not sure. Here's the picture of it.

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Old 05-03-2010   #35
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Your Rolleiflex seems quite unusual. If it has a Tessar lens it should be bay 1, but your camera shares some characteristics with the 3.5E model (which were fitted with Planar/Xenotar lenses and are bay 2 size). It has the nameplate and strap hangers of the 3.5E model, and the bayonet size and spacing also looks to be the same as the 3.5E. I mightn't be remembering all of this correctly, but it does seem a bit weird to me.
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Old 05-04-2010   #36
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It definitevely is a 3.5C, have a look at camera #27 on that page :
http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tl.../all_TLR.shtml

Then Bayonet 1, as for any 3.5 tessar!
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Old 05-04-2010   #37
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That's right, I'd forgotten that the 3.5E is also known as the 3.5C. But... it should have a Planar/Xenotar and be bay 2 shouldn't it? The MX-EVS (or K4B - camera number 8 on that Rolleiclub link) is similar and has a Tessar (or Xenar) lens, but as I mentioned it has a different nameplate, strap hangers, etc.

Did any of the 3.5C/3.5E's come with a Tessar from the factory?
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Old 05-04-2010   #38
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Thank guys, I wasnt sure what rolleiclub shows because with the 3.5C they have spec of 2.8 version. the list of serial numbers also wasnt unanimous, one say 3.5C and two 3.5E. Wayno it's making photos and that's most important
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Old 05-04-2010   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbielikowski View Post
Wayno it's making photos and that's most important


Yes, correct. I suspect that the Tessar has been retrofitted to your camera. As long as it's been correctly installed that's all that matters. If you want Rolleinars, a lens cap or a lens hood I suspect that bay 2 will be the correct size, but it would pay to measure or try before you buy.
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Old 05-13-2010   #40
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http://www.photoshelter.com/c/clive_...00OZimsIrQAq0/

Rolleiflex 2.8 [same age as me] with rolleinar
All shot during a transatlantic voyage aboard "Seabourn Spirit" during November 2009.
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