Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Gearhead Delights > DIYS Modifications

DIYS Modifications DIYS aka Do It Yourself Projects - mostly gear modifications

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Hacking Nikon L35AF lens for Leica M?
Old 01-10-2017   #1
alanchin
Registered User
 
alanchin's Avatar
 
alanchin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Baltimore, Brooklyn, Detroit
Posts: 7
Hacking Nikon L35AF lens for Leica M?

I read here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...d.php?t=148987

and in more detail: https://filmosaur.wordpress.com/2015...made-easy-not/

Used a 35mm f/2.8 out of a Nikon L35AF into an Industar I-50 housing, but with a lot of work shaving it down...

So, would this be easier on a Jupiter 12 LTM lens that is already rangefinder coupled and correct lens-to-film plane distance for a 35mm?

I realize the optical designs are completely different...thoughts?

THANKS!
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #2
02Pilot
Malcontent
 
02Pilot is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 1,096
What will matter is where the aperture is in relation to the optical block. There's no space between the glass elements to allow the aperture to function, and the whole thing is encased in plastic anyway. I don't have a J-12 anymore, so I can't measure it for you, but if the aperture is far enough back it might work. I have a feeling, however, that it won't be; remember that the I-50 body I used is collapsed, putting the aperture well inside the body.
__________________
-------------------------------------------------------
Any man who can see what he wants to get on film will usually find some way to get it;
and a man who thinks his equipment is going to see for him is not going to get much of anything.

-Hunter S. Thompson
-
http://filmosaur.wordpress.com/
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #3
Alfonso B
Registered User
 
Alfonso B is offline
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 73
I adapted one to a Kiev J-12 as it's shorter to begin with. Used a cheap 6-bit conversion flange. I don't know if you would be better off starting with a l39 lens body, I had to machine most of the parts and make 2 from stock (flange to lens barrell adapter, RF cam). Regardless of J-12 style you at least have to lathe down the lens plastic bit to fit deep enough in the housing that has the aperture mechanism in it.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #4
FrankS
Registered User
 
FrankS's Avatar
 
FrankS is offline
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canada, eh.
Age: 60
Posts: 19,438
I'd just use it the way Nikon intended. It's not a bad little camera.

Now, a Minox 35 lens is a different story.
__________________
my little website: http://frankfoto.jimdo.com/

photography makes me happy
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #5
raid
Dad Photographer
 
raid's Avatar
 
raid is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 27,502
What about a Minox 35, Frank? Is its lens better than the Nikon 35/2.8?
__________________
- Raid

________________
Top 12 Images;

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/rffg...n.php?cid=7007

http://raid.smugmug.com/
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #6
Nyc Dito
Registered User
 
Nyc Dito's Avatar
 
Nyc Dito is offline
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NYC
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankS View Post
I'd just use it the way Nikon intended. It's not a bad little camera.

Now, a Minox 35 lens is a different story.
Agreed. I would feel bad cutting up my trusty L35af. although i applaud all you guys who do these conversions, love seeing new things.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #7
02Pilot
Malcontent
 
02Pilot is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 1,096
I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that the Minox lens is a Tessar-type. If so, it is probably capable of better sharpness than the Nikon, and perhaps a bit more contrast. The Nikon lens is a Sonnar-type, unusual (unique?) in such a wide focal length, and offers a unique look. That was my motivation for selecting it over other options.

Oh, and mine came from a camera of dubious operational reliability for which I paid $3 (IIRC), so don't worry about my having hacked up a usable camera.
__________________
-------------------------------------------------------
Any man who can see what he wants to get on film will usually find some way to get it;
and a man who thinks his equipment is going to see for him is not going to get much of anything.

-Hunter S. Thompson
-
http://filmosaur.wordpress.com/
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #8
douwe
Jazz and Silver
 
douwe's Avatar
 
douwe is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Amsterdam
Age: 33
Posts: 120
I am actually in the (long) process of converting the nikon l35AF 35/2.8 to m-mount. Rather than looking for the perfect donor I am taking to route of 3d printing an interface for a separate aperture, helix and the lens. Work in progress:







It's been a worthwhile approach for the minoxar lens I did earlier. The challenge is, as always, getting the infinity focus right. I'm pretty happy with the results though!

__________________
Jazz and Silver: http://jazzandsilver.blogspot.com

Last edited by douwe : 01-11-2017 at 14:06. Reason: links to pics didn't work
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #9
shawn
Registered User
 
shawn is offline
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 416
I didn't use it on a M but I hacked a L35AF lens into an Industar 69 to use on the Fujis.



Easy there as I didn't have to worry about rangefinder coupling.

Shawn
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #10
alanchin
Registered User
 
alanchin's Avatar
 
alanchin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Baltimore, Brooklyn, Detroit
Posts: 7
I have a broken L35AF with a perfect lens...otherwise sure I would use the camera. Thank you all for your replies, the 3D printing route that douwe is going seems to be the best? Where is the aperture assembly and blades coming from? A USSR lens?
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-11-2017   #11
douwe
Jazz and Silver
 
douwe's Avatar
 
douwe is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Amsterdam
Age: 33
Posts: 120
You can buy an iris mechanism on ebay. I took me a while to find it but the seller has a good inventory:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321978625399...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
__________________
Jazz and Silver: http://jazzandsilver.blogspot.com
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #12
Nyc Dito
Registered User
 
Nyc Dito's Avatar
 
Nyc Dito is offline
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NYC
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that the Minox lens is a Tessar-type. If so, it is probably capable of better sharpness than the Nikon, and perhaps a bit more contrast. The Nikon lens is a Sonnar-type, unusual (unique?) in such a wide focal length, and offers a unique look. That was my motivation for selecting it over other options.

Oh, and mine came from a camera of dubious operational reliability for which I paid $3 (IIRC), so don't worry about my having hacked up a usable camera.
$3!..best bargain ive seen =) ... i guess im just imagining my working L35 getting cut up even though it works perfect. And i paid $8 some years ago haha

Maybe if i find another one for dirt cheap (is dirt still cheap these days?), i might buy it to do this mod.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #13
taomei
Registered User
 
taomei is offline
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 53
Wow, great thread! following in case mine dies.
__________________
Follow Me: Tumblr | Flickr | Instagram
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #14
alanchin
Registered User
 
alanchin's Avatar
 
alanchin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Baltimore, Brooklyn, Detroit
Posts: 7
@douwe Thank you for the link! How did you know which iris mechanism is the correct one? Also, in your photos there is the brass (?) helix...where did that come from? Are you contemplating rangefinder coupling or scale focus?

@Alfonso Yes, with a J-12 in Contax mount you have to do all that lathing -- but with the LTM version, as you mention, wouldn't the only work be getting the L35AF glass to fit in there at that correct distance once you've removed all the original glass? That is, wouldn't the existing rangefinder coupling for the 35mm focal length remain intact and correct? As we would be simply replacing one set of glass elements with another?

Thank you all for the great info and responses. Certainly the conversion to a mirrorless mount rather than Leica M would be simpler, not requiring rangefinder coupling. Perhaps this is the wiser approach -- now, just have to get my hands on a Sony A7!
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #15
Alfonso B
Registered User
 
Alfonso B is offline
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanchin View Post
Yes, with a J-12 in Contax mount you have to do all that lathing -- but with the LTM version, as you mention, wouldn't the only work be getting the L35AF glass to fit in there at that correct distance once you've removed all the original glass? That is, wouldn't the existing rangefinder coupling for the 35mm focal length remain intact and correct? As we would be simply replacing one set of glass elements with another?
I'm pretty sure the aperture doesn't sit deep enough in a LTM mount Jupiter. It would be extremely helpful if someone unscrewed his/her l39 J-12 rear element and measured the distance from aperture blades to mounting flange. We could then figure out how much the aperture housing needs to go inwards. There's ~0.2-0.5mm of shims there, but removing them isn't likely enough so some part needs to be machined. Likely the inner part of helicoid at least.
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #16
alanchin
Registered User
 
alanchin's Avatar
 
alanchin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Baltimore, Brooklyn, Detroit
Posts: 7
@alfonso: right! I actually don't own a J-12, and come to think of it, unless I find one with destroyed glass, it's rather a too high quality lens to decommission for a hacked L35AF lens, not an under $10 piece of gear...

@douwe : So it really looks like you have the potentially simplest plan? I don't own Sony full-frame or Fuji, but do have two micro 4/3 cameras. SO, my best bet is build this for micro 4/3...

I need to:

1) Get the lens out of the broken L35AF -- any advice on how to do this best?
2) order correct iris mechanism
3) order an appropriate focusing helicoid, a M42-M42 should do, or M39-M39...will hunt around.
4) DESIGN and PRINT 3D housing that screws into this helicoid -- who has the expertise for this? Douwe, would your existing design work as a basis for a micro 4/3 conversion? Would have to factor in thicknesses of adapter and focusing helicoid.
5) mount onto m42/m39 -> micro 4/3 adapter

Without need for rangefinder coupling and with off the rack iris mechanism and focusing helicoid, this should just be 1 3D print, relatively simple?

Thoughts? THANKS!
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #17
Austintatious
Registered User
 
Austintatious's Avatar
 
Austintatious is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Shadow of Pikes Peak, USA
Posts: 326
That lens on the L35AF must be pretty good ! There is one on the bay for $195.00 !!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142233269085...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
__________________
My gallery

RF's : Bessa-R, Kiev 4AM ,FED II, Yashica Lynx 14,Yashica GT, Yashica Lynx 5000 , Olympus XA, Argus C-3
Other :Minolta XD-11, Yashica FX3 super2000, Yashica-Mat 124G, Rolleicord Va
Digital :Nikon D50, Sony NEX 6, Panasonic LX-5
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #18
douwe
Jazz and Silver
 
douwe's Avatar
 
douwe is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Amsterdam
Age: 33
Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanchin View Post
@douwe Thank you for the link! How did you know which iris mechanism is the correct one? Also, in your photos there is the brass (?) helix...where did that come from? Are you contemplating rangefinder coupling or scale focus?
Well, since I took the donor l35AF apart, I could take a look at its shutter/aperture mechanism. The shutter/aperture blades sit in front of an opening with a certain diameter. I assumed this diameter forces the maximum aperture to f/2.8. The iris that I bought has a larger diameter, so I should be fine.

Interestingly, the lens in the L35AF moves when focusing but the shutter and aperture are stationary. This would perhaps explain some of the reports of fairly heavy vignetting: the closer the lens focuses the farther it moves away from the aperture behind the optical cell. Just a theory on my part...

The helix I took from a broken yashica electro 35 GT. The post-mortem wasn't pretty. It's a nice sturdy and wide helix though. I'm still looking for a helix that is wide and has little travel. I have a fuji tiara 28mm f/3.5 lens that is my next candidate for conversion!
__________________
Jazz and Silver: http://jazzandsilver.blogspot.com

Last edited by douwe : 01-12-2017 at 15:25. Reason: It's late and I killed a bottle of bordeaux with a friend of mine
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #19
douwe
Jazz and Silver
 
douwe's Avatar
 
douwe is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Amsterdam
Age: 33
Posts: 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanchin View Post
@alfonso: right! I actually don't own a J-12, and come to think of it, unless I find one with destroyed glass, it's rather a too high quality lens to decommission for a hacked L35AF lens, not an under $10 piece of gear...

@douwe : So it really looks like you have the potentially simplest plan? I don't own Sony full-frame or Fuji, but do have two micro 4/3 cameras. SO, my best bet is build this for micro 4/3...

I need to:

1) Get the lens out of the broken L35AF -- any advice on how to do this best?
2) order correct iris mechanism
3) order an appropriate focusing helicoid, a M42-M42 should do, or M39-M39...will hunt around.
4) DESIGN and PRINT 3D housing that screws into this helicoid -- who has the expertise for this? Douwe, would your existing design work as a basis for a micro 4/3 conversion? Would have to factor in thicknesses of adapter and focusing helicoid.
5) mount onto m42/m39 -> micro 4/3 adapter

Without need for rangefinder coupling and with off the rack iris mechanism and focusing helicoid, this should just be 1 3D print, relatively simple?

Thoughts? THANKS!
You are besically spot on. The critical part is to figure out how close the lens needs to be to the sensor. You'd need to adjust the 3d print according to the thickness of the helicoid and the flange-to-sensor distance of fourthirds.

In short:

~35mm + thickness of 3d print = 4/3 flange-to-sensor + thickness helicoid

hope that makes sense!
__________________
Jazz and Silver: http://jazzandsilver.blogspot.com
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #20
alanchin
Registered User
 
alanchin's Avatar
 
alanchin is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Baltimore, Brooklyn, Detroit
Posts: 7
More research progress:

There is a M42 to micro 4/3 focusing helicoid:

https://fotodioxpro.com/products/m42-mft-p-macro

So that reduces one step -- the unit of lens + iris mechanism just needs to screw into this helicoid (if it's not too thick to achieve infinty -- I've written Fotodiox asking them to tell us the thickness of the adapter).

@Douwe : are you willing to share the design of the 3D mount that you've made? As a starting point for this?

THANK YOU
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #21
nhchen
Nathan
 
nhchen is offline
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Austintatious View Post
That lens on the L35AF must be pretty good ! There is one on the bay for $195.00 !!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142233269085...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Wow I've got three or four of these lying around somewhere and I only paid less $10 for each of them! And they all work too!

Nathan
  Reply With Quote

Old 01-12-2017   #22
B-9
Devin Bro
 
B-9's Avatar
 
B-9 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,496
Same here, they are actually only worth 10-15$, that listing is asking the moon.

I grab them all day for 2-5$ and they are hard to move at 15$

Once upon a time, I was getting 45$, Canon has a similar model that also would catch 20-30$ now I have a hard time giving them away for postage.

No shame in scalping the lens from a working camera.
__________________
Made in Michigan

RangefinderGuy @ Instagram
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 21:18.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.