Go Back   Rangefinderforum.com > Cameras / Gear / Photography > Digital Cameras > Sigma / Foveon Cameras

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

Old 07-08-2013   #41
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by darya151 View Post
This thread is really helpful. I'd really like to get a DP but at the same time, I'm a bit boggled by the workflow. It seems that SPP is not really difficult, but slow. I haven't used a post processing app like Lightroom or Aperture or others (suggestions welcome!), I'm a bit apprehensive, yet still quite interested. Slow is fine, just not quite sure how to get started. Which is best and clearest for someone new to the process?

The work posted by the DP cameras is incredible. The monochrome's are deep, rich - haven't seen any digital that renders in this way. So, it is worth the work. Suggestions appreciated!

Many thanks,
Darya

I bought ACDSee Pro 6 for about ninety dollars from memory and it's all I use aside from SPP. It's realtively easy to learn (LR does my head in) and the interface is extremely good IMO. There's none of this import export bullsh!t it just opens whatever files/folders you want to work on.

I've been using their software for about ten years now and can't praise it enough for what it can do and how much it costs. I recently downloaded a trial version of capture one pro which I messed around with for about a day then went straight back to my favourite.
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #42
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
One thing u could do is to download some raw files from the web.. Even if they are the small ones, at least u can play w/ them and c how the to create a work flow that would make sense to u before u buy a camera.

Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sigm...&client=safari

I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #43
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
One thing u could do is to download some raw files from the web.. Even if they are the small ones, at least u can play w/ them and c how the to create a work flow that would make sense to u before u buy a camera.

Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sigm...&client=safari

I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.

Gary

One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee.

Foveon workflow is unusual!
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #44
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee.

Foveon workflow is unusual!
Couldn't agree more. But I think people need to figure out some basics first before they start doing batch operations.

I find a lot of stuff can be run thru the batch processing engine, but there are some that need some tender care thru spp.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #45
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
Couldn't agree more. But I think people need to figure out some basics first before they start doing batch operations.

I find a lot of stuff can be run thru the batch processing engine, but there are some that need some tender care thru spp.

Gary
Definitely ... once I've flitted through the jpegs to decide which are keepers I go back and deal with the selected raw files on an individual basis before converting them to 16 bit TIFFS.

Do we love our Sigmas or what! (everybody cheer)
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

spp noise reduction and sharpness
Old 07-08-2013   #46
dfatty
Registered User
 
dfatty's Avatar
 
dfatty is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 575
spp noise reduction and sharpness

in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.

after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.

i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.
__________________
Dean
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #47
Eric T
Registered User
 
Eric T is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
I know some have had sharpness issues w/ the dp3m. I was thinking about my comment about being too light. Since these cameras have no image stabilization like a p&s, any slight movement at the time of shutter release is really going to be magnified especially when using LCD in conjunction w/ that 50f2.8 lens.. For the dp3m, u may need to add both weight and a higher than normal shutter release then normal for u? Or do u use it on a tripod? Those w/ dp3m can u comment?

Gary
Gary,
In my experience, the DP3m is the sharpest of the three DPxm cameras. But all of them are incredibly sharp. I try to always use a tripod with these cameras. Not so necessary with the SDIm and an image stabilized lens (as expected).
__________________
Eric Triplett in sunny Florida
These days I shoot mostly with Sony A7R, Canon M3, and Leica T.
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #48
clear2000
Registered User
 
clear2000's Avatar
 
clear2000 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 65
This link(google doc) may be helpful to anyone who is interested in the DP series.
A great overview and many useful tips. I have the DP2S and the DP2M, and Iím very pleased with these cameras.

https://docs.google.com/document/pre...urvjECTScdgyhw
__________________
Flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #49
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfatty View Post
in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.

after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.

i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.

I export from SPP with noise reduction and banding at the minimum setting when using this method based on blue channel priority. The default setting is quite destructive to a file that doesn't need it IMO.

I noticed that 'saved settings' seem to ignore this area and automatically defaults back to the middle setting. (annoying)
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #50
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
From 1600 on down I use minus 2 for both noise settings.. I also start using the blue channel starting at 1600 though. By 3200, I will starting using the noise settings at their default value.. It seems the longer the exposure time, the more u need to depend on the blue channel game once u get into 1600 and above.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #51
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
From 1600 on down I use minus 2 for both noise settings.. I also start using the blue channel starting at 1600 though. By 3200, I will starting using the noise settings at their default value.. It seems the longer the exposure time, the more u need to depend on the blue channel game once u get into 1600 and above.

Gary
When you use the loop you realise that the sensor actually produces quite a lot of noise at ISO 400. The difference when you use the blue channel even at this ISO is quite marked!
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #52
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
When you use the loop you realise that the sensor actually produces quite a lot of noise at ISO 400. The difference when you use the blue channel even at this ISO is quite marked!
I actually have not noticed significant noise at 400 when shooting b&w... color is a different issue.. i tend to use the default noise setting by 400 if i am shooting color. Guess I am not looking hard enough.

back on topic, b&w... But starting at 800 I do notice it. So far I have been ok w/ what I have seen when shooting b&w. I rather have more tonal quality.. And good sharpness and live w/ the noise. But by 1600, the noise is getting to me..

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-08-2013   #53
darya151
Registered User
 
darya151 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 113
Keith and Gary, thanks so much for your help and guidance! I am still wrestling with a purchase of a DP; your advice is sound, I am going to try the suggestions! For all the frustration some have voiced about the Sigma cameras, this forum has initiated experimentation, creativity, engagement with artistry and process, sharing resources.
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #54
mingkookoo
Registered User
 
mingkookoo is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
Great thread, just watched the SPP video Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.

Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.

Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?

http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camer...n6952512500643

It's around $95 USD, too much?

On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.

While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .

Thx
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #55
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
It looks like a variation on the real right stuff L bracket and grip that I use w/ my dp Merrill cameras. The main difference is the bottom plate on the rrs goes all the way across vs the half plate that is showing on the web page.

http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.as...igmaDP&key=cat

I guess I would wonder about any imbalance related issues when u lay down the camera on a flat surface.

I find that for me these cameras are tooo light and I don't really want to completely change my shutter release technique. So I went w/ more mass to dampen the shutter release cycle. I also found that the rrs grip placed my finger at a better location for a bit softer release stroke. I would think the longer the lens the more this can become an issue.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #56
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Quote:
Originally Posted by darya151 View Post
Keith and Gary, thanks so much for your help and guidance! I am still wrestling with a purchase of a DP; your advice is sound, I am going to try the suggestions! For all the frustration some have voiced about the Sigma cameras, this forum has initiated experimentation, creativity, engagement with artistry and process, sharing resources.
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
The more the merrier . We all learn from one another.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #57
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by mingkookoo View Post
Great thread, just watched the SPP video Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.

Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.

Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?

http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camer...n6952512500643

It's around $95 USD, too much?

On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.

While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .

Thx

It looks pretty good for the price IMO and probably worth a try ... if it doesn't work out I'll give you fifty dollars for it!

Composing with an LCD on a camera with this focal length is a recipe for disaster in poor light IMO and I use an accessory viewfinder so I can brace the camera against my head in situations where hand held is the only option. The finder I use is one of the old variable Leitz type that has parralax adjustment so I can get the framing extremely accurate with practise.

I have the overpowering desire to get out and use the DP3M today and it's raining cats and dogs!
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #58
mingkookoo
Registered User
 
mingkookoo is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
@ Gary: Thx for your info. You are so right, the sigma is pretty light . If it is more hefty I'm sure it would make it more steady with the longer focal length.

The product looks very similar to the RRS's. By the way do you have a Pic of your merrills with the RRS setup?

thx
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #59
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Sigma SD1m w/ 50f1.4 alongside my DP1m and DP2m



Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #60
mingkookoo
Registered User
 
mingkookoo is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
They look quite nice on the DpMerrills. At the moment I can't afford to get the RRS setup though

If someone decided to try the less expensive similar grip from Japan I would love to hear about their experience with it.

By the way Gary, lovely Foveon trio you have and thanks for the pic
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #61
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
It looks pretty good for the price IMO and probably worth a try ... if it doesn't work out I'll give you fifty dollars for it!

Composing with an LCD on a camera with this focal length is a recipe for disaster in poor light IMO and I use an accessory viewfinder so I can brace the camera against my head in situations where hand held is the only option. The finder I use is one of the old variable Leitz type that has parralax adjustment so I can get the framing extremely accurate with practise.

I have the overpowering desire to get out and use the DP3M today and it's raining cats and dogs!
I would tend to agree that a camera w/o any stabilization, the longer the focal length, u need to either use a ovf to create a better three point hold or maybe even something like a hoodman... I think Jon was going to investigate this. I tend to go ovf approach just because it is smaller, but a hoodman can also provide a more accurate picture plus the three point brace. When u add the extra weight from a grip setup like rrs, it all helps.

I think the dp2m is the longest les u can get away w/ using the LCD handheld.

I tend to go a min. Of 2x the efov for the shutter speed. Since the efov in this case is a 75.. That would mean min. Of 150th. So I would use 250 as much as possible until I was forced down to 125th or 60th.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #62
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
I would tend to agree that a camera w/o any stabilization, the longer the focal length, u need to either use a ovf to create a better three point hold or maybe even something like a hoodman... I think Jon was going to investigate this. I tend to go ovf approach just because it is smaller, but a hoodman can also provide a more accurate picture plus the three point brace. When u add the extra weight from a grip setup like rrs, it all helps.

I think the dp2m is the longest les u can get away w/ using the LCD handheld.

I tend to go a min. Of 2x the efov for the shutter speed. Since the efov in this case is a 75.. That would mean min. Of 150th. So I would use 250 as much as possible until I was forced down to 125th or 60th.

Gary

I find that provided I can find something to lean on I'm fine ... standing and swaying is the danger because you don't even realise you're doing it!

I've had decent results from my D700 down to 1/8 sec.
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-09-2013   #63
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
When I was shooting night shots and iso 800 was max I had, it was pretty common to be wide open and shooting at 1/4 or 1/8.

I tend to look for light post or sign post or anything else that was anchored to the ground.. But normally would tend to place it against that object instead of leaning my body against that object.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-15-2013   #64
helenhill
a Click in Time...
 
helenhill's Avatar
 
helenhill is offline
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 5,103
i found this site to be quite Informative...
https://docs.google.com/document/pre...urvjECTScdgyhw
__________________
Flickr.

A Lover of Leica M's...
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-15-2013   #65
mingkookoo
Registered User
 
mingkookoo is offline
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
Nice find Helen, thx
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-15-2013   #66
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
I did some very interesting tests with the DP3M this afternoon. I was curious to see just how much detail this little camera can resolve in ideal conditions ... ie on a tripod at ISO 100 focused on objects around twenty kilometers away. (Brisbane city high rise)

The eye opener for me was how soft the lens is at f11 and f16 ... detail just disappears at f16 and is not a lot better at f11. It really starts to improve dramatically at f8 and appears to be sharpest at f3.5 and f5.6 ... I'll post some samples later.

Those two apertures are seriously not worth using if you're shooting landscapes from a tripod.
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-16-2013   #67
dfatty
Registered User
 
dfatty's Avatar
 
dfatty is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
I did some very interesting tests with the DP3M this afternoon. I was curious to see just how much detail this little camera can resolve in ideal conditions ... ie on a tripod at ISO 100 focused on objects around twenty kilometers away. (Brisbane city high rise)

The eye opener for me was how soft the lens is at f11 and f16 ... detail just disappears at f16 and is not a lot better at f11. It really starts to improve dramatically at f8 and appears to be sharpest at f3.5 and f5.6 ... I'll post some samples later.

Those two apertures are seriously not worth using if you're shooting landscapes from a tripod.
good to know, i wouldn't have imagined that it's noticeably worse at f11. i'm aware of diffraction at smaller apertures but f11 doesn't seem that small when you're shooting landscapes.
__________________
Dean
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-16-2013   #68
Eric T
Registered User
 
Eric T is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 704
The SD1m isn't bad at f/11. This was taken at ISO 100 at 18mm (using 18-250mm lens).
The site is Cedar Key, Florida, last Saturday night.
SDIM1195 - Version 2 by ewtriplett, on Flickr
__________________
Eric Triplett in sunny Florida
These days I shoot mostly with Sony A7R, Canon M3, and Leica T.
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-16-2013   #69
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric T View Post
The SD1m isn't bad at f/11. This was taken at ISO 100 at 18mm (using 18-250mm lens).
The site is Cedar Key, Florida, last Saturday night.

I hate to seem picky Eric but that image is so big it's totally unviewable!
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-24-2013   #70
j.scooter
Registered User
 
j.scooter's Avatar
 
j.scooter is offline
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Toronto-ish
Posts: 869
Just found out they released an update to SPP a little while ago. http://www.sigma-dp.com/download/photopro.html#windows
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-27-2013   #71
jarski
Registered User
 
jarski is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,305
holy geeez that pic above blows this whole page out of proportions!! how is it even possible

anyways, some tips about working with SPP as raw pre-processor and in conjunction with LR. doing batch edits can become handy. link.

to apply automatic lens corrections in Adobe ACR/LR to TIFF's exported from SPP: link.

Quote:
a Raw-specific lens profile can be "kludged" so as to be perfectly usable with TIFF, JPG etc - which is far better than nothing.

The way to do this is to make a duplicate copy of the profile (.lcp) concerned - changing its filename slightly to suit. Then in a text editor, in this copy, change the line which refers to "CameraRawProfile" from True to False. That's it!
tried it with ACR and worked nice!
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-27-2013   #72
louisb
Registered User
 
louisb's Avatar
 
louisb is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 232
Can anyone provide any advice about ring flashes, or indeed any flash set-up when using the DP3M for macro type work - mainly outside, e.g. flowers and insects.

LouisB
__________________
"I shoot what I like and I like what I shoot"
Latest book "Ampthill" now available
My Flickr stream
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-28-2013   #73
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
I have to say I'm pretty un-impressed with the CV 75mm finder ... it's not accurate at all from left to right. Centre something in the finder and it's nowhere near centre in reality ... the fifty year old Leitz variable finder I've been using up until now is totally accurate in comparison.

I'll probably do some sort of adjustment to the mounting plate of the CV with a file to get it in line but that is pretty slack IMO.
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 07-29-2013   #74
Keith
On leave from Gallifrey
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Keith is offline
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,305
As a folllow up to my previous post I realigned the 75mm finder today with a file and a lot of patience. I re-angled the front where it pushes up against the end of the hot shoe and angled the corresponding area at the rear to allow the whole thing to twist a degree or two then put a little packing in to keep it in place. It's important for these things to be fairly precise because when looking through the finder you're assuming the position of the focusing square and if the finder isn't right you're going to have a lot of trouble getting correct focus. Optically it's a great finder but obviously not enough care is taken with alignment .. at $140.00 I would have expected better from Cosina.
__________________
---------------------------
flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-16-2013   #75
dfatty
Registered User
 
dfatty's Avatar
 
dfatty is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 575
nothing earthshattering but i recently got the voigtlander 40mm optical viewfinder and it works very well on the dp2m. i wear glasses which causes my eye to be a little behind the viewfinder, which ends up giving very close to exact framing compared to the LCD. as others have mentioned it's nice having the confirmation light on top.

still waiting for the dp3m to drop in price in the US, i'm frankly astounded that it hasn't by now. and while i thought the price drops for the dp1m and dp2m were permanent (thought i read that somewhere), they're back up to original retail price.
__________________
Dean
  Reply With Quote

Old 08-16-2013   #76
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Last time I think they drop the price around maybe thanksgiving or Christmas time frame.

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Sigma Photo Pro SW processing guide
Old 02-02-2014   #77
GaryLH
Registered User
 
GaryLH's Avatar
 
GaryLH is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,186
Sigma Photo Pro SW processing guide

For those who maybe interested. I came across this today. I have not read thru it, just took a quick glance thru.

http://sigma-rumors.com/articles/sig...cessing-guide/

Gary
__________________
Panasonic LX100, Sigma Foveon, Fuji X and Panasonic CM1
  Reply With Quote

Old 02-03-2014   #78
Chrisrw
photomonkey
 
Chrisrw's Avatar
 
Chrisrw is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Seattle
Posts: 242
thanks for the added info Gary.
Has anyone tried Iridient Developer yet?
I actually don't mind the slowness of SPP, I am so happy with the images and the b&w conversion that there's not much for me to do in LR. I find myself more intentional with my DP2M anyway. I merely consider it as a faster process compared to film developing and have rarely considered my film cameras since getting it.
__________________
photomonkey

  Reply With Quote

Old 02-03-2014   #79
noimmunity
scratch my niche
 
noimmunity's Avatar
 
noimmunity is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lyon/Taipei
Age: 54
Posts: 3,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryLH View Post
For those who maybe interested. I came across this today. I have not read thru it, just took a quick glance thru.

http://sigma-rumors.com/articles/sig...cessing-guide/

Gary
Another thanks from me!
__________________
jon 小強


flickr
Flickr
  Reply With Quote

Old 04-14-2014   #80
Spanik
Registered User
 
Spanik is offline
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,334
Got the DP1m now a month and can't make up my mind. I get fabulous photo's and terrible ones at the same outing. Glorious colours and horrible ones in the same light. Great skin tones and blotchy red ones in the same settings. Can't get grip on it yet.

Could it be the lightmeter? When looking at the exif I see 1s&f8 at iso400 and 1s&f8 at iso 800 right after each other when I was testing the iso "look". Shouldn't be right.

Problem is, should I get a DP2 or DP3 while it lasts?
  Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 16:13.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

All content on this site is Copyright Protected and owned by its respective owner. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.