Old 05-27-2017   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoetuff View Post
So re-appraising the whole of this, I'm thinking a slide copier and bellows set-up from the old days would be the ticket. Thoughts?
I use a macro lens instead of the bellows set up.
The macro lens allows me to use AF.
But the end result would be the same.
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Old 05-30-2017   #202
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This is an excellent, in depth tutorial:

http://www.mfphotography.ca/michael-...digital-camera
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Old 05-30-2017   #203
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Fuji TX-1, 45mm, Velvia 100

D750 scan.

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Old 06-02-2017   #204
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Like all my other 'scans', it took 1/125 sec to 'scan' this image thanks to using a dslr

Leica M7 + Summaron 35 w/goggles, Kodak BW400CN

Scanned with D750

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Old 06-02-2017   #205
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Huss - I really have to thank you for getting me going again with this digitizing.
I've invested in a slide copy and bellows attachment and am using my Sony A7ii w/Nikon Micro Nikkor 55 f2.8 lens.
Here is that same guy (my brother) shown in post #57 of this thread a couple years later when he was at college in Texas. I 'scanned' this with the above setup.
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File Type: jpg DSC08900 (Small).jpg (39.8 KB, 41 views)
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Old 06-02-2017   #206
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That looks great! The 'scan' and the memory!
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Old 06-02-2017   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
Great shot!
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Old 06-02-2017   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
Like all my other 'scans', it took 1/125 sec to 'scan' this image thanks to using a dslr

Leica M7 + Summaron 35 w/goggles, Kodak BW400CN

Scanned with D750

Great stuff. I guess DSLR scanning is viable, lol.
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Old 06-06-2017   #209
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Minolta XK, Rokkor 35-70 3.5, Portra 400

D750 scan in 1/125 sec.

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Old 06-07-2017   #210
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Rolleiflex 2.8E, Rolleinar 1, Fuji NPS 160 exp July 2000

Nikon D750 scan

As I used a lightpad to illuminate the 120 film, this 'scan' took 1/15 sec.
Still significantly quicker than using a traditional scanner.
Crop of eye to show detail/resolution of DSLR scan:

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Old 06-08-2017   #211
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Nikkormat FT2, 35mm 2.8 non AI, Portra 400, D750 scan

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Old 06-11-2017   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huss View Post
This is an excellent, in depth tutorial:

http://www.mfphotography.ca/michael-...digital-camera
Following the method and using the Action set in the above tutorial, I want to see if I can get reasonable color from color neg film.

But, I have a slightly different strategy:
- Use flash, not incandescent light for the exposure, help offset the orange mask
- Using a Beseler Dual-Mode Duplicator with a Di-Chro head, adding cyan/magenta trying to completely offset the orange mask (so R, G, B are all balanced when I photograph the negative). With "white" light, the red channel clips first, leaving blue and green with narrow histograms.
- Ignore the image, resolution, and quality below, this is just a test for reasonable color

Here are my specifics:
- Set the di-chro for Magenta +15, Cyan +50 to offset the orange mask
- Set camera ISO 100, lens at f/4, gives good exposure, good histogram
- Trigger the (high-voltage) flash through a Wein Safe-Sync

Result is a RAW file I can convert at 4500K with very little tint, whites are white. Add a bit of clarity, and give it a full histogram, just like any scan.

Then use the Action set in the tutorial. Further adjustments: In Levels, move center slider to right. In Curves, some adjustment. Result is "close enough" and I think a good base for fine tuning. The bricks really do have a purple cast. I have white, red, and green that are close enough. This method might really work.

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Last edited by ColSebastianMoran : 06-12-2017 at 07:09. Reason: Di-chro control is Cyan. Updated with better scan, with adjustments.
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Old 06-11-2017   #213
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I shot my second roll of Washi 120 rice paper film the other day ... for details, see:
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/s...1&postcount=13

They were scanned with the Leica SL using a BEOON and Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm lens. Here's the capture setup:





Here are a couple of the scans, rendered with a customized Camera Calibration Profile in Lightroom that automates the inversion and gamma correction processing.





(There are six more on the page linked above.)

Because the Washi 120 film is paper and tends to be wavy/curly after processing and drying, I made a channel under a glass plate to pull the film through. I used Art Tape to secure everything in position for the capture, which takes a few minutes but allows me to make the captures themselves in about 1/10 the time: just pull the film through the channel and snap a photo of each frame. All exposures were made with Daylight white balance, ISO 50 @ f/8 @ 1/8 second, using the SL's electronic shutter and the Leica SL app on an iPad to eliminate any camera movement.

G
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Old 06-12-2017   #214
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Love it Godfrey and thanks for sharing your set up.
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Old 06-12-2017   #215
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Got to thank you, Huss, for recommending the 60mm 2.8 AFS. It's made the entire process ridiculously easy since the AF locks on perfectly. I got one and since then its taken the guesswork out of focusing. The lens is also insanely sharp.
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Old 06-14-2017   #216
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You're welcome Stompy! Yeah the Nikon 60 2.8 AFS is perfect for this work.

Nikon F6, 50 1.2 AIS, Portra 400, D750 'scan' w/ 60 2.8 AFS

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #217
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From a rainy day in Tokyo, 2010, with new-to-me Yashica GX. Fuji 200 color neg film.



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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
From a rainy day in Tokyo, 2010, with new-to-me Yashica GX:



What's not to like? Those are great.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #219
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Nikon D750 scan of Portra 400

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #220
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Fuji TX-1, 45mm, Fuji Velvia 100

D750 scan (2 shots of the film merged in LR)

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #221
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Here's one more from same Fuji 200 roll in Tokyo. Crummy light, overcast, down in the gorgeous Happo-En Garden.



Camera-scan with Sony A7. Invert, then Curves Option-Auto "Find Dark and Light Colors," and "Snap Neutral Midtones" (Thanks, Huss, for this!) Adjust exposure/contrast gives a reasonable image, as good as the mini-lab. Then more fiddling.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #222
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Minolta SR1s, Rokkor 55 1.7, Kodak BW 400CN

D750 scan



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Old 1 Day Ago   #223
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I am finding there is a learning curve to the post processing.

This is on Ilford Delta 100, developed normally in Rodinal at 1:50. Shot with my Nikon S2, "scanned" with my D7000.

I'm not sure which is best. Of course, one of my "issues" is I think whatever looks good on one monitor looks different on a different one.

First is converted to a positive, then minor tweak of the curve to increase contrast:



This is with a greater increase of contrast:



For this one, I fooled around with the contrast slider. Note the grain in the sky:

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Old 1 Day Ago   #224
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Another one. Nikon S2, Jupiter-12, Ilford Delta 100:

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Old 1 Day Ago   #225
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One more. Same details as above.

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Old 1 Day Ago   #226
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Last one for today. S2 and 8.5cm Nikkor, Delta 100:

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