Reading a Gossen Luna Pro

[Morca007]

Recently, I was lent a Gossen Luna Pro meter. I'm keen to be able to use it properly, but I can't seem to figure out how to read it properly. It is an older one, and has only ASA for film speed (which as far as I know, is analogous to ISO in terms of numbers).
Now, either the readings it is giving me are off, or I do not know how to read it correctly. Both of the in camera meters on my N80, and FG read roughly the same (~1/30 at 1.8), while the meter is telling me an EV of 10. On the dial, this corresponds to roughly 1/500 at 1.8.

Is it off, or am I simply reading it wrong?

Right now it is loaded with two 1.5v batteries (both reading as full).

[nikon_sam]

The number that the pointer points to (upper window) is NOT the EV number...it is the number used it the window above the LW/EV window...some of the older camera use EV numbers so you can play with different shutter/aperture combinations...

Hope this helps...

[Morca007]

Hmm, so, the number in the upper (top of the meter, with the needle pointing to it) window is what I should be setting the number in the second lowest (yellow, has three arrows pointing in, green, empty circle, red, empty circle, and yellow triangle) to get the exposure data?
And the LW/EV window on the bottom is an entirely different data set?

[Doug]

Well, no help to you I'm afraid, but this is why I prefer the "null-reading" versions of the Luna Pro, like the Luna Pro SBC and Luna Pro F. Just turn the calculator dial until the needle is centered in the display. Also prefer those that use a 9v "transistor" batter rather than the mercury cells.

[vrgard]

With the Gossen Luna Pro you transfer the number from the scale at the top to align with one of the three markers at the bottom. The green ring marker is for use with a 7.5 degree spot attachment. The red ring marker is for use with a 15 degree spot attachment. And the yellow triangle marker is for use with no spot attachment at all (in other words, just regular use). I have an electronic copy of the manual if you want a copy. Just shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you.

-Randy

[venchka]

Randy covered use and his offer of a manual is very nice.

Next, get rid of the 1.5v batteries. Buy Wein cell zinc-air batteries. 2 of them. Place them in the Luna-Pro. Read the light. I say this because the 1.5v batteries will throw your readings all over the place depending on the light level. I have a Luna-Pro and it runs on 2 Wein batteries. It always matches my M5s running on mercury cells and my Weston Master V running on no batteries.

If you can find 625 size mercury cells buy them.

The sliding white dome is for incident readings. Slide right for reflected readings. Slide left over the sensor for incident readings. Press the rocker switch forward for low light scale. Press it back for bright light scale. Or the reverse. I can't remember & my meter is in the other room. Small numbers = low light, big numbers = bright light.

It's a decent meter. Quirky and battery challenged but very useful.

[vrgard]

Wayne is right about the problem using regular batteries with the Gossen Luna Pro. Wein cells are one solution. Gossen makes another solution that is a custom made battery adapter. It seems to work well. Here's the B&H web page about it: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...older_for.html

-Randy

[venchka]

Thanks, Randy. I didn't know about the adapter. On the other hand, the Wein cells are almost a year old and going strong. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

[vrgard]

Wow, Wayne, I didn't think the Wein cells would last that long. I thought they'd run out after a few months so assumed the adapter would be cheaper in the long run.

-Randy

[nikon_sam]

Originally Posted by vrgard

With the Gossen Luna Pro you transfer the number from the scale at the top to align with one of the three markers at the bottom. The green ring marker is for use with a 7.5 degree spot attachment. The red ring marker is for use with a 15 degree spot attachment. And the yellow triangle marker is for use with no spot attachment at all (in other words, just regular use). I have an electronic copy of the manual if you want a copy. Just shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you.

-Randy

I was just going to add this info but it's been done...Thanks Randy...
I have two of these Luna Pros and a third one that uses the Null setting...I prefer the Luna Pro SBC (Null Meter) for two reasons...First it's easier to use and second it uses 9v batteries which I can get anywhere...

[venchka]

Originally Posted by vrgard

Wow, Wayne, I didn't think the Wein cells would last that long. I thought they'd run out after a few months so assumed the adapter would be cheaper in the long run.

-Randy

As near as I can remember, I got the meter last Oct-Nov. OK, 8-9 months. Admitedly, I don't use the meter a lot. However, they haven't gone bad from just sitting either. I think it would be worth buying a pair and see how long they last for you. If you use them up quickly, then go to the adapter. Also, search in camera repair here at RFF for an idea on how to use CHEAP 675 hearing aid batteries where a 625 is called for.

[Morca007]

Thanks for the help everyone, I think I'll go with the Wein cell, since I don't own the meter.

This thing ought to be very helpful with the Holga.

[mike goldberg]

Re: Batteries... I use the Wein cells in my OM-1, and they're great. My Gossen Luna Pro [bought used], came with two 625's.

In taking Incident readings, am I supposed to stop down? I tend towards overexposure. The zero adjustment appears to be OK in the meter, with the
needle below the '1' in the low scale, when tested in total darkness.
Thanks, mike

[Doug]

Originally Posted by mike goldberg

In taking Incident readings, am I supposed to stop down? I tend towards overexposure. The zero adjustment appears to be OK in the meter, ...

Not sure I understand, Mike, about stopping down. You'll want to set the film speed on the meter so that suitable negatives result from proper use of the meter. Ideally, for incident readings, you'll walk over to the subject and point the meter (the diffuser dome) straight at the camera, neither tilted up nor down. The dome should then be in the same exact inflow of light as the side of the subject the camera will shoot.

If the subject is inaccessible, or if the subject is in exactly the same light as the camera, approach the ideal as best you can. The meter's calculator dial will give you a series of equivalent exposures using different pairings of shutter speed and aperture. Stop down the lens as desired and use the shutter speed suggested for that aperture.

Did I manage to answer your concern?

[mike goldberg]

Thanks, Doug and all above,

What I conclude in incident readings is: I may not have been pointing the meter from subject to camera... rather, somewhere in between. When not sure, it pays to bracket, and/or compare with a camera meter that I know to be accurate.

[Michael I.]

http://www.marquis-kyle.com.au/lunasix02.htm

[Xmas]

Even if you are young and have good eyesight you may need a torch (flashlight) unless the street lighting is good.

When you get down to one on the meter it is dark, and the calculator is more difficult than the galvo pointer/needle.

Noel

[venchka]

Originally Posted by mike goldberg

Re: Batteries... I use the Wein cells in my OM-1, and they're great. My Gossen Luna Pro [bought used], came with two 625's.

In taking Incident readings, am I supposed to stop down? I tend towards overexposure. The zero adjustment appears to be OK in the meter, with the
needle below the '1' in the low scale, when tested in total darkness.
Thanks, mike

I found the instructions somewhere online, C.R.S. is acting up so I can't tell you where, and it said to remove the batteries to set the meter at ZERO.

[venchka]

Here you go: The 675 to 625 trick.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...133#post588133