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Old 12-29-2006   #26
Uncle Bill
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I had an OM-4 but it developed expensive shutter issues so I parted company with it in a trade with my Tech for an OM-1md, and I got a motordrive to go with it. Its when the repair almost cost the same as what you paid for the body.

I want an OM-4ti, the metering is brilliant good and I miss that. When I got cash......
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Old 12-29-2006   #27
giellaleafapmu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mw_uio
Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
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Hi,

I have an Olympus OM4 (not the T one...) and it is a great camera, the price however could be a bit lower, at least that was true for me in Bogota' (not too far away from where you are compared to other people writing in this newsgroup).

Since I bought mine not too long ago and I had the chance to look at many ones before buying I would recommend you check the slow times in automatic. I am not sure why but almost all the cameras I saw measured properly and were precise in manual mode but made slow times in automatic veryyyyyyy slooooooowwwwwww....yahwn! A repairman told me that this is a common problem and even adviced me not to bother but I could use this "defect" to ask for a discount

The only real situation in which this could be a problem is if you like to put your camera on the floor of a church aiming to the roof and would like to have times in the 5--10 seconds range but I found out that with some bracketing (done by changing the iso-setting) I could get usually at least one reasonable exposure even with my camera which indeed has the problem I mentioned.

Giella lea Fapmu
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Old 12-29-2006   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferider
Are you sure you tried with film ? I have never had this problem on the
various OM bodies that I tried, but when you play with the camera in
automatic mode without film, it slows down the shutter by several stops
since the OTF measurement is calibrated towards light reflection
from film (instead of the black pressure plate).

Just a thought,

Roland..
Giella, my experience and comment is the same as Roland's. Put in a roll of film and the "problem" will go away.

If I were you, I would NOT take an Olympus (or any other camera) to that repairman.

ScottGee1
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Old 12-29-2006   #29
Trius
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Roland and Scott are correct. Yes, there could be a problem, but without film the OTF metering is using the black film pressure plate for reading the exposure, which is quite different than the reflectance of film. Also note that the reading before exposure is read off the shutter curtain, which has a pattern of white rectangles on it. This pattern is designed to provide centre weighted (I think) metering and exposure information in the viewfinder. I'm not sure how the spot metering works with the pattern.

Whenever I shoot in very low light with an OM-2, I am sometimes surprised at the length of the exposure, but the exposure generally is correct on film.
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Old 12-29-2006   #30
giellaleafapmu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottgee1
Giella, my experience and comment is the same as Roland's. Put in a roll of film and the "problem" will go away.

If I were you, I would NOT take an Olympus (or any other camera) to that repairman.

ScottGee1
Mmmmmh, that's an interesting statement and it is probably what happened. In any case I have a few little doubts.

Let's say that the camera measures light from the reflection on the curtains' pattern she (for some reason I tend to call cameras by "she" instread of "it") doesn't know whether there is film or not. I then shoot (I cannot change this one for "take a photograph" or "expose film") and she measures from a pressure plate instead of a film. Could that give a 5x change in the exposure only for a long exposure even when I am pointing at a greycard? Maybe it could if the camera knows about reciprocity low but it seems to me a bit strange... Also, why should this happen only from time to time (here I don't have a real test or a statistic but I think this is what it happens with my camera, I shall check more carefully)? Of course, I tend to believe you more than anyone else (expecially since I never had any problem with real photographs) but it sounds a bit strange that "that repairman" would have said something so badly wrong since he did repair several cameras of mine and I always got very clean works for which I had never anything to regret (he is an official deler and repairman of Olympus by the way) and also since I bought the camera from a friend and I just gave it to him asking about the problem without even saying that I was considering buying...

Anyway, whatever the case, I already have the camera which in fact gives to me no practical problem and, even if I (and or the repairman) am wrong, it makes no harm to check the slow speeds (mmmmh, all right, with film inside ) before buying.

Giella lea Fapmu
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Old 12-30-2006   #31
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Oh, talking about long exposures reminds me... I have a pinhole body cap with a hole of 0.1mm. It's actually too small to be a perfect pinhole. I measured the distance to the film plane and it's about 5cm, so I tend to call it my 50/f512 lens. I could use that power of 2 to calculate the exposure time, but instead I just rely on the OM-4T's auto-exposure. It comes out just perfect on slide film ! I once doubled the auto-exposure time to compensate for the Schwarzschild effect but the picture that the camera had timed came out much better. Very impressive metering system.

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Old 12-30-2006   #32
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well I have a rather basic question, but maybe a OM-4 can help with that.

I'm shooting a lot of concerts and opera stuff in the last time. Well I'm using a Minolta XE for that purpose, which has center weighted metering. It's always a lot of guessing and experience (which I do not really have) to get the right exposure. So does a spot meter really help with such situations? Well if that would be the case I'm thinking about switching from Minolta to Olympus. And the camera of the choice would be a OM-4T(i).
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Old 12-30-2006   #33
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giellaleafapmu: An incorrect battery could also be in play here. If someone put in something other than a high-drain silver-oxide battery (e.g., not an SR44W or 375/303), then yes, that behaviour could be expected.

The only way to REALLY tell is to either have an experienced Olympus technician check it out, or try it with film... with a proper fresh battery, of course. The only OM that doesn't use the SR44W battery type, AFAIK, is the OM-1, which used the mercury PX625.
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Old 01-02-2007   #34
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Archie,

I've used my OM-4T using spot metering to take pictures at a concert. The way I worked was to take a few measurements of the heads of the musicians (all causasian types, whose skin colour is pretty close to 18% grey) and then to fix my exposure at that, i.e. setting the camera to manual exposure at those values. The exposure came out great on all pictures. So yes, spot metering is a good tool in concert photography. But you can also buy a separate spot meter and to the same.


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Old 01-03-2007   #35
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thanks peter,

well the only problem is that you are much slower with a separate spot meter, as in concerts light situation changes really fast.
I'm using a minolta xe at the moment which is quite a huge monster. and as I'm also doing much street shooting, a smaller (and black) camera would be my preference
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Old 01-03-2007   #36
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I would say 400$ is fair if without dent, even that dent is very slight, it makes the camera away from intact , and that makes different when you want to sale it.
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Old 01-03-2007   #37
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Not specifically related to concerts, I would put the dilema from my personal angle.

With my Sekonic spot meter I near absolute security for any camera I may use, and obviously those without meter. A spot meter gives also a kind of "integrative" reading for tele lenses, where whatever is not spot simply doesn't.

On the other hand, and I repeat I am very subective here, the OM4 (ti or not) is the only camera with which I would dare to get out without a spot meter, whenever I need absolute security. But of course I am talking about "absolute" security and in daily life I use to use simple cheap camera readings and have a small digi in my pocket.

So in conclusion, either with a spot meter or the OM4 (ti or not), you will be dressed to kill - if this is what you are looking after.

Cheers,
Ruben

Last edited by ruben : 01-03-2007 at 02:13.
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Old 01-03-2007   #38
giellaleafapmu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archie
thanks peter,

well the only problem is that you are much slower with a separate spot meter, as in concerts light situation changes really fast.
It does not in most classic music concerts...

Anyway, I am not sure a separate spot meter is really that slower but I am also not sure it is much cheaper than a second hand OM-3, OM-4...

Also, most good spot meters are larger in size and look like a gun (or an hairdrier).

Giella lea Fapmu
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Old 01-03-2007   #39
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Giella: You make a good point about the appearance of a spotmeter. It today's climate, carrying one can be problematic, unless it's a Weston Ranger 9.
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Old 01-04-2007   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trius
Giella: You make a good point about the appearance of a spotmeter. It today's climate, carrying one can be problematic, unless it's a Weston Ranger 9.
In Bogota' it could even be dangerous...

Giella lea Fapmu

PS
I use a Gossen Lunasix 3 with the 7 degree "almost-spot" attachment, it is not too bad but I don't think it is better than the OM-4 internal spot meter.
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Old 01-04-2007   #41
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No, I'm sure it's not better, probably not even as good. The real advantage, as has been stated, is the OM-4's ability to store readings, plus the highlight and shadow buttons. Highly flexible, but elegantly simple.
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Old 01-04-2007   #42
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Trius

I thought you do a couple of high, a couple of averages and a couple of shadows and provided you remembered to memorise - shoot with a motor, click click click?

I never remember to memorise... well hardly ever...

Noel
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Old 01-04-2007   #43
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Noel,
In my mind I do not associate my OM4 (and Ti) with machine gun shooting, although it is perfectly possible, technically. If I need to machine gun shots I will pic the OM2 (n or not) and quickly compensate the "auto" with the exposure compensating button at the top.

The multi spot metering is for me more associated with the exposure thinking state of mind. You may spot 2 or three times in manual mode, the camera will both show your spots and average the exposure, but then you should shift that averaging either for the black/dark/shadowed tones or the contrary. In my opinion you can spot 8 readings if you want but you will be messing up or playing rather than thinking.

Cheers,
Ruben

PS: I am also counscious you were just kidding in your upper post, but a militant of Maitani like me cannot afford loosing new recruits.

Last edited by ruben : 01-04-2007 at 08:17.
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Old 01-04-2007   #44
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Ruben

I apologise I did not mean to annoy.

I have had an OM1 from '78, it needs a new prism (foam rot),... 2x winders,... etc.

At a wedding I use 2x OM1 or 2x OM4 each with a winder, one 35mm the other 50 or 85mm and I have been known to hold down the button in continuous like an Uzi, for the whole 36. Always wanted a (2x) motor(s) for the power rewind... think of the fun I could have then.

Normally I'm forced to 400 ASA but take fast and slow primes along just in case.

Since I use chrome I normally only spot meter on the brides dress once and memorise, if I remember...

Noel

P.S. lots of the OM4 (whem new) and on were sold with a pager 'film' in the gate so that the meter worked properly...
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Last edited by Xmas : 01-04-2007 at 11:14.
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Old 01-04-2007   #45
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Sold one of mine couple months ago for $450 with 50mm 1:1.4 - the condition is near new. You can get one on Ebay with similar price, keep in mind a slight dent on a titanium armor is a pretty "heavy" impact! ... good luck










Quote:
Originally Posted by mw_uio
Today, I looked in a shop and found a Olympus OM-4T in champange in excellent shape, a slight dent on the prism. Inside super clean. The lens on it is a 50mm F1.4. Glass is super clean. The price on it for $400 USD. Is this a good deal, or is this high? It is so tempting, yet $400 on some film would go a long way also.....should I?

Cheers

Mark
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Old 01-05-2007   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmas
Ruben

.....Since I use chrome I normally only spot meter on the brides dress once and memorise, if I remember...

Noel

Noel I don't follow, don't you have a "memory" button around the shutter release, lasting for up to 1 hour time?
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Old 01-05-2007   #47
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Ruben

Having spot metered there is too much temptation to trip the shutter, before anything else, frequently I forget to push or pull the rotary 'reset' or 'memorise' control, frequently one wants a photo of situation not a delay.

The OM1 is better for this, especially if you turn off the meter.

Noel
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