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06-03-2012
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#1
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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More Un Modern Architecture
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Jeff
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06-03-2012
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#2
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ɹoʇɐɹǝpoɯ moderator
back alley is offline
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what tripod did you use...
very nice, as usual!
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06-03-2012
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#3
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ɹoʇɐɹǝpoɯ moderator
back alley is offline
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just a crazy thought...but it might be beneficial to see a colour rendition as well...for comparison...
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06-03-2012
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#4
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by back alley
just a crazy thought...but it might be beneficial to see a colour rendition as well...for comparison...
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colour is for the unwashed masses. I prefer the pretend silver

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Jeff
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06-03-2012
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#5
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ɹoʇɐɹǝpoɯ moderator
back alley is offline
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but the alberta blue sky along with alberta white clouds can be unreal at times...
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06-03-2012
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#6
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BobYIL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Fried
colour is for the unwashed masses....
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Hmmm.. good to know..
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06-03-2012
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#7
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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yes, true. The better the blue is, the better the gray is though.
one more for comparison. I really don't think I would have made any of these images if I had known they must be colour. For example, had I been out with a camera loaded with velvia, I would have shot entirely different subjects. I intended B&W from the beginning. When I shoot family snapshots, I think in colour and then as such don't often convert to B&W.

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Jeff
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06-03-2012
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#8
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobYIL
Hmmm.. good to know..
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a joke Bob.   
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Jeff
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06-03-2012
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#9
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thomob is offline
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beautiful photos!
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“Photography deals exquisitely with appearances, but nothing is what it appears to be.” Duane Michals
www.photique.posterous.com - dedicated film and vintage camera blog
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06-03-2012
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#10
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v_roma is offline
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These are really great. Why the -1EV? Just highlight protection?
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06-03-2012
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#11
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v_roma
These are really great. Why the -1EV? Just highlight protection?
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basically yes, it blows highlights in scenes like this. It's really no different than any other camera; that is to say you learn the quirks of how how it meters and combine that with preferences on how one processes film or digital files and you develop working methods. Generally speaking I always have it set to -1 or -2/3 all of the time.
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Jeff
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06-04-2012
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#12
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v_roma is offline
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I was just surprised by how much you were underexposing but it certainly makes sense in scenes like the ones in the photos above (i.e., bright sunny days). And the X100 files are certainly malleable enough (at low ISOs at least) that you can bring out the detail in even very dark shadows. Thanks and, again, very nice work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Fried
basically yes, it blows highlights in scenes like this. It's really no different than any other camera; that is to say you learn the quirks of how how it meters and combine that with preferences on how one processes film or digital files and you develop working methods. Generally speaking I always have it set to -1 or -2/3 all of the time.
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06-04-2012
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#13
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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The other benefit to underexposing is that you get density in the sky. You really do have to underexpose the sky in order to get the blue to appear as it looks; and I also need that deep blue to get the grey tones in the sky that I want.
Aside from all of that, I also think the meter on my X100 is off by 1/2 to 2/3 of a stop based on my tastes and how the raw files convert in Lightroom. It's just part of really learning a particular camera and making it do what you want. No different than learning the quirks of any particular camera/film/developing combo.
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Jeff
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06-04-2012
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#14
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Registered User
v_roma is offline
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Yes, makes sense. I don't usually underexpose since I can typically pull back quite a bit with the X100 in post-processing but, to be honest, there are times when I do get some ugly blown highlights that I can't recover and I rarely get those deep blue skies except when using a polarizer. If you don't have anything against filters, you should try using one (the cheaper linear kind works fine for mirroless cameras). In addition to helping quite a bit with skies, it also removes some glare/reflections from glass, foliage, etc and might help with the kinds of shots you're going for (not that you seem to need any help  ).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Fried
The other benefit to underexposing is that you get density in the sky. You really do have to underexpose the sky in order to get the blue to appear as it looks; and I also need that deep blue to get the grey tones in the sky that I want.
Aside from all of that, I also think the meter on my X100 is off by 1/2 to 2/3 of a stop based on my tastes and how the raw files convert in Lightroom. It's just part of really learning a particular camera and making it do what you want. No different than learning the quirks of any particular camera/film/developing combo.
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06-04-2012
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#15
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Registered User
peterm1 is offline
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An old building on the wharf used for many years as a maritime museum in Port Douglas
P1010062a by yoyomaoz, on Flickr
Derelict building Adelaide Hills
DSC_4745b by yoyomaoz, on Flickr
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06-05-2012
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#16
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v_roma
Yes, makes sense. I don't usually underexpose since I can typically pull back quite a bit with the X100 in post-processing but, to be honest, there are times when I do get some ugly blown highlights that I can't recover and I rarely get those deep blue skies except when using a polarizer. If you don't have anything against filters, you should try using one (the cheaper linear kind works fine for mirroless cameras). In addition to helping quite a bit with skies, it also removes some glare/reflections from glass, foliage, etc and might help with the kinds of shots you're going for (not that you seem to need any help  ).
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I have never used a polarizer, but you are right it would probably be beneficial for me. What kind exactly should I be looking for?
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Jeff
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06-05-2012
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#17
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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Very nice Peter. I like the soft feathery look of the palm leaves
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Jeff
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06-05-2012
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#18
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Registered User
v_roma is offline
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I think SLRs require circular polarizing filters for AF and metering to work properly (that's my understanding, at least). Mirrorless cameras like the X100 can use the relatively cheaper linear polarizer variety. The one I got for mine was a B+W (49mm Linear Polarizer Multi-Resistant Coated).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Fried
I have never used a polarizer, but you are right it would probably be beneficial for me. What kind exactly should I be looking for?
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06-11-2012
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#19
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Registered User
Deep Fried is offline
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