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Homemade lenses for my G1
Old 04-05-2012   #1
petronius
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Homemade lenses for my G1

Minotar 35mm/2,8 from a broken Minox 35EL, glued into a m4/3 body cap:



Examples; ooc jpgs, AWB, Auto ISO, dynamic film mode, minor corrections in PS:

f8,0:


f2,8:


f5,6:
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Old 04-05-2012   #2
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wow. aren't you a wiz ...
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Old 04-05-2012   #3
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interesting... does it focus at the distances marked on the lens?
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Old 04-05-2012   #4
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Yes, it does!
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Old 04-05-2012   #5
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Great idea, I've got a broken Minox -- how did you calculate where to fix the lens? How is the leather grip attached and how far round does it go?
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Old 04-05-2012   #6
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I used the trial and error method. The lens comes out of the Minox in two parts, the glass with shutter, aperture and distance scale and a straight tube. There are many wires to cut and you will have to remove the shutter magnets and some other gizmos on the back of the lens.
(The tiny lever that opens the shutter blades has to be glued carefully.)
I carved a hole in the body cap in which the tube sits firmly. Then I set the lens to infinity, put it into the tube and moved the whole unit carefully until I had a sharp image on the lcd. Then I removed the lens and glued the tube into the body cap without moving it. After one night I put the lens unit back into the tube and fixed it from inside with gaffer tape to keep the lens removable if necessary (Iīm a friend of gaffer tape).
The leather on the camera body is fixed with rubber cement (Pattex). It end at the hinge of the SD card door.
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Old 04-05-2012   #7
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26mm/2,0 lens removed from a Canon 110ED and transplanted into a Industar-61 helicoid:


I wrapped gaffer tape around the lens to fit the different diameters of the lens and the helicoid.

The Canonīs aperture was placed in front of the lens, so I can shoot only at 2,0; the lens focuses from 25cm to infinity.





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Old 04-05-2012   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petronius View Post
I used the trial and error method. The lens comes out of the Minox in two parts, the glass with shutter, aperture and distance scale and a straight tube. There are many wires to cut and you will have to remove the shutter magnets and some other gizmos on the back of the lens.
....
.
Thanks, that's very helpful!
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Old 04-05-2012   #9
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That canon 110 ED lens is cracking! Amazing bokeh. It wouldn't cover an APS-C frame would it? That would be a really great focal length to employ on an NEX or Ricoh GXR....
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Old 04-05-2012   #10
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It was designed for 13x17mm negatives; I presume some vignetting on a Nex.
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Old 04-05-2012   #11
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fun thread, zeno ...
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Old 04-05-2012   #12
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Thank you, Paul!

Here is another one. In 2010 I bought a Penti I with a brick of Orwo SL films. I took it on a walk some weeks ago and after the first frame the shutter stuck and something rattled inside the camera. Ever tried to open a Penti? Forget it! (Maybe Iīm too dumb, but I read about similar problems with the Pentina)
At the end I used some force, and removed the lens. Looking around in my McGyver box I found the seldom used Holga lens for M4/3, which I had modified several times. I removed the "lens" and replaced it by the Penti glass. The new lens can be stopped down, but I have to do it from the backside with a toothpick or a pen.



Examples:





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Old 11-16-2014   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petronius View Post
Minotar 35mm/2,8 from a broken Minox 35EL, glued into a m4/3 body cap:



Examples; ooc jpgs, AWB, Auto ISO, dynamic film mode, minor corrections in PS:

f8,0:


f2,8:


f5,6:
I love the way pics shooted with Minox lenses (after all it's a Tessar, isn't it) look. There's no comparison for the Zeiss glass. A fabulous idea to keep that great magnificent tiny lens working again!
Another possiblity is mating the minox lens to a M mount, to deliver the same great results...

BTW what happened to the remains of the donor minox?
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Old 11-16-2014   #14
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I'm betting the remains of the Minox got thrown out somewhere in the past 2.5 years...
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Old 11-16-2014   #15
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Great job with those lenses, the micro 4/3rds is a fun camera to work with.
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Old 11-17-2014   #16
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This is the real fun part of photography - going where nobody has been before, and achieving great results - brilliant! Quite made my day to see this thread!
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Old 11-17-2014   #17
Shirley Creazzo
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I can understand the excitement here. I so love the mechanics of stuff like this and I am envious of guys like you who understand it all, and in awe of those of you who actaully know how to do these things. The intricacies of the work and the enthusiasm of all is nice.

P.S. the resulting photos are not too shabby either!!!
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Old 03-26-2016   #18
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Update:
The lens of the Lomo LC-A and the lens of a Canon Dial halfframe camera (both FUBAR!)
The lenses were glued into body caps and fitted with tiny magnets in the back that can hold waterhouse stops.
Not as clean as the actual Minitar from Lomography, but a bit cheaper!











Examples will follow (these are older conversions, ca. 2012/13, so I have to find the pictures first!)
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Old 03-27-2016   #19
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Thank you Helen!

Pictures from the Minitar:





The waterhouse stops make shooting into the light a sometimes surprising experience!
I got similar effects with homemade pinhole cameras.
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Old 03-27-2016   #20
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I wish I could manage such conversions. You are talented.
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Old 03-27-2016   #21
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Thanks again Helen!
Raid, you should see the buckets and buckets filled with dead cameras ... ;-)

Today I slaughtered a broken Ricoh R1 and adapted it on my G1.
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Old 03-27-2016   #22
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Good for you! Creativity is not achieved by repeating same methods over and over.
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Old 04-11-2016   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raid View Post
Good for you! Creativity is not achieved by repeating same methods over and over.
hmmm... philosophically, I don't know if I quite agree with this... I'm just thinking creative process here... but over my lifetime, I "wasted(?)" a lot of time with projects like this and in the end I'm not entirely sure that it has actually helped me achieve greater creative results. Part of me thinks it's more a separate fetishization which I occasionally have to indulge in and leave it at that.

Currently, I am loving the simplicity of shooting only my E-P1 with Oly 25 set to f5.6 and landscape orientation mounted on tripod... so the repetition of this method frees me to concentrate on everything within my frame... still leaving infinite photo possibilities, but removing some complications...

Just thoughts... everything subject to change of course!
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Old 04-11-2016   #24
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Petronius, very cool work!

Since my Minox 35 GL miraculously still works, I won't be taking the lens off it for a similar experiment, but if I find a broken one, I'll definitively give it a try!

When I got my Oly 25, I gave my gf my Sigma 30 since the FL's were too close to keep both (and the 30 pairs really well with her P20), but a tiny little 35 could be a nice addition to my kit (sitting between my 25 and 45) and I have always loved the performance from those Minox lenses.

Before I start looking for a broken Minox (no shortage of those!), just want to get your assessment of overall across the frame performance. At f5.6, how are the corners?

Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2016   #25
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Raid, Mark, in my opinion the most positive aspect in trying things out is the fact that you get the ability to deal with failures and to transfer found solutions on new problems.
I often wished to have the ability to shoot with the same kit a long time. My wife does so and I admire her for that ability.
But gear-wise for me itīs more like Oscar Wilde said "I can resist everything except temptation."

Talking about the Minotar: I have to look for a picture that fits your needs, if not I will shoot some brick wall;-) Stay tuned!

Today I received a Industar-69 - more fun to come!
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Old 04-12-2016   #26
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"I can resist everything except temptation."

Hahaha! Right!

Can't wait to see what you do with your Industar-69! A fun lens and handles well on m43 bodies!
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Old 04-12-2016   #27
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Hey, I just came across this little write up I did for modifying the I-69 for use on m43... you might find it useful. (Other links I've found were not helpful!)

Since there seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the modifications needed to make the Industar-69 compatible with a Micro 4/3 camera, I am providing these notes on how to do it. Unfortunately, I did not visually document the procedure when I modified my own lens because I didn’t realize that it would seem so complicated to others or be useful to anyone at the time.

But here are the steps I performed:

1) Loosen the three set screws in the focusing ring.

2) Lift out the focusing ring.

3) Unscrew the lens block from the lens mount.

4) Remove the focus limiting screws.

5) Sand or grind down the raised lip on the inside of the lens mount. (This is what prevents the lens block from retracting into the body enough to achieve infinity focus.)

6) When you think you have removed enough material – and you don’t need to remove that much – clean everything off, screw the lens block into the mount, attach the lens to the camera using an appropriate LTM adapter and check if the lens block will focus to infinity on the camera. If it doesn’t, remove, disassemble and remove more material from the lens mount until you get infinity focus. Note that you do not need to attach the focus ring at this point.

7) After you achieve infinity focus, disassemble, give everything a final cleaning, grease up the helicoid and screw the lens block into the mount and attach to the camera and replace the focus limiting screw (optional).

8) Focus the lens on an object out at “infinity.” In reality a few hundred feet is good enough – think distant telephone pole.

9) With the lens block focused at infinity, slip on the focus ring and line up the focus mark to the infinity mark. When you are convince the two are both set correctly, tighten the focus ring set screws. Note that for FSU lenses, these screws are made from inferior steel and you have to avoid over tightening or they will snap!

10) At this point the focus scale on the lens is calibrated for the lens when mounted on a Micro 4/3 camera and will achieve infinity focus, but due to a peculiarity of the I-69 lens design, the aperture mark will be off (the two are coupled by design and only correct when calibrated for a Chaika camera and even then the setting is suspect!).

11) To correct the aperture scale marking, open up the lens all the way and use a Sharpie to add a mark to the silver aperture ring in front of the f2.8 mark.

12) You now have an Industar-69 perfectly calibrated for your Micro 4/3 camera.

13) Enjoy!
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Old 04-12-2016   #28
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I'm always surprised by your ability to work out things like this...I would never imagine to try something similar...
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Old 04-12-2016   #29
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PS With the I-69, I found that if you only put one of the focus limiter posts back in that you will end up with closer focusing ability! Really, I just like using the scale focusing pictographs when shooting mine though. This is the only "alt lens" that stays in my camera bag!
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Old 04-13-2016   #30
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Mark, thank you for the writeup.
There are some shorter methods that donīt require grinding:

1) Some people say: Test the I-69 first. There are copies that will focus to infinity from the start (Maybe the quality control was a bit ... ahem!)

That didnīt work with my lens so

2) In youtube I found this method: I loosend the three tiny (TINY) screws, removed the focus ring; I removed the stopping screw in the lens mount, then mounted the lens to the camera and focused to infinity (it worked with my copy). After that I rescrewed the focus ring - done.
The close up ability is great, but I have to be careful not to unscrew the complete front.
Tomorrow I will do some test shots, but I seem to have a quite "soft" copy.
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Old 04-13-2016   #31
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I made a few body cap lens for my Pentax 6x7. I actually use them. It is fun for special effects; especially the Brownie Hawkeye Flash lens. Yours look much better than mine. I had trouble with the 'hole making' in the cap.
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Old 04-13-2016   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petronius View Post
Mark, thank you for the writeup.
There are some shorter methods that donīt require grinding:

1) Some people say: Test the I-69 first. There are copies that will focus to infinity from the start (Maybe the quality control was a bit ... ahem!)

That didnīt work with my lens so

2) In youtube I found this method: I loosend the three tiny (TINY) screws, removed the focus ring; I removed the stopping screw in the lens mount, then mounted the lens to the camera and focused to infinity (it worked with my copy). After that I rescrewed the focus ring - done.
The close up ability is great, but I have to be careful not to unscrew the complete front.
Tomorrow I will do some test shots, but I seem to have a quite "soft" copy.
Lucky you! Though the grinding was very simple anyway.

I think they are all "soft" copies! Also, the FSU mono-coatings are all crap so some of the softness is just flare. Dramatically boosting contrast and careful sharpening make mine kind of usable, but I mostly use mine for night photography because sharpness isn't much of an issue the way I use it for that.

Can't wait to see some real examples... cuz', yeah, the 100% crops are all going to look like crap!
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Old 04-16-2016   #33
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I had a meeting and used some free time to get some shots with my new Industar-69:

[IMG]P1320941 by petronius, on Flickr[/IMG]

More will come. The pictures ar mostly ooc, some have slightly corrected curves.
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Old 05-17-2016   #34
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I have some new photos from the I-69 in my flickr, this time in B&W:
P1330263 by petronius, on Flickr

Aperture wide open and exposing for the shadows is a new experience for me - I like it!
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Old 06-01-2016   #35
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Petronius, I checked out your I-69 album on flikr. Some nice images! I think the ghosty lens works best with the pastoral and domestic shots in this set. Nice! Making me think I have to go out shooting mine some more!
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Old 06-10-2016   #36
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Here is an album with some more Minox Minotar photos.
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