Ricohflex (Super or others) samples, thoughts, advice?

[maddoc]

The Ricohflex VII also uses A36 (push-on) filters, very handy since I can use the caps / filters of my Leitz Elmar 50/3.5 and Summaron 35/3.5

[emilp]

Originally Posted by farlymac

I was fortunate to get the leather case with mine, as it makes it easier to compose a scene. I used to own a Mamiya C330 Pro F, and it was a fine instrument. Three lenses, two prism hoods (one metered), and many more accessories were comprised in a very nice system. I didn't mind the weight, as it seemed to make it easier to steady the shot. I used a handle bracket most of the time. And I would love to have another one.

I'm thinking that I probably wouldn't mind the weight. The images coming out of those are great.

Originally Posted by farlymac

So here is a shot of my Super, and some samples from a couple of rolls I ran through it. Double exposures are really easy to do if you don't keep a rythm of wind, focus, and shoot going. Watch out for accidental tripping of the shutter.

Those are some nice crispy shots. I can see a bit of softness in the corners, but it doesn't seem go far. Maybe keeping the apertures down at f8/f11 would solve that? Either way, I wouldn't expect perfect sharpness all across with these.

Originally Posted by farlymac

Or my really favorite mistake, attempting to use the winding knob to focus.

Hahaha! I don't mean to laugh, but that one did make me laugh. And it's a great tip. I never thought of that. Of course I don't have TLR habits from other TLR's so I'd remember to focus with the gears on a Ricohflex Super, but I could see how I could make that error with a TLR that has both knobs on the same side. Maybe those Rollei guys knew what they were doing when they put them on different sides after all...

Originally Posted by farlymac

TLR's are great cameras, and they each have their quirks and weaknesses. But oh, such wondeful negatives.

I do like a wonderful negative.

Originally Posted by farlymac

ps: The Super Ricohflex uses 36mm push-on filters and hood. That's why I didn't shoot mine much, it took a long time to find a replacement set.

Originally Posted by maddoc

The Ricohflex VII also uses A36 (push-on) filters, very handy since I can use the caps / filters of my Leitz Elmar 50/3.5 and Summaron 35/3.5[/IMG]

That's good information, thanks. Finding the proper size for accessories can be a pickle with older cameras. I was very happy to find a suitable hood for my Lynx. Now to get that smudge off the rear element...

[RichL]

When I used TLR's my Mamiya C-33 was the go to camera for tele, wide angle and close ups. For most shooting while wandering streets or mountains I used a Minolta Autocord RG 1. Both are fine cameras and I wouldn't hesitate to use either one today if I weren't using a 6x6 folder.

[shadowfox]

Ricohflex?
Now you get my attention.

I *love* Ricoh TLR's.
I have a Super Ricohflex, went through a Diacord (which I sold because it's very nice cosmetically and fetched way more than I put in it), then I got the Ricohmatic 225 which I still use to this day.

Here's a write up I did about the Super Ricohflex.

And here's another one on the Ricohmatic 225 equipped with a Rollei close-up filter.

And finally, one of my favorite from the Super Ricohflex:



If you need a CLA on your Ricoh TLR's (any of them), consider Mark Hansen in Oregon: http://www.zeissikonrolleirepair.com/

[emilp]

Originally Posted by RichL

When I used TLR's my Mamiya C-33 was the go to camera for tele, wide angle and close ups. For most shooting while wandering streets or mountains I used a Minolta Autocord RG 1. Both are fine cameras and I wouldn't hesitate to use either one today if I weren't using a 6x6 folder.

I may well decide to do something like that eventually - one for wandering and one for the specialized tasks.

Will, thanks! Clearly there's nothing wrong with the contrast coming from those lenses. And those are some great sharp shots with the Rolleinar attached. Tempting stuff.

[je2a3]

Hi Emil,

Just uploaded test shots taken by these two cameras after a DIY CLA. Both had frozen focus due to the dreaded dried green grease. Surprisingly the younger Super Ricohflex shutter was hanging at 1/10 but a Naphtha bath + judicious use of a blower fixed it. As farlymac and others stated the lens is an A36, so I used a SOOGZ + 12585 lens hood for the test.

I also liked the geared focusing design and found the pics taken by the camera in the internet appealing. I did a lot of research to ascertain that if things go wrong DIY revival was within my abilities. The VF is not as bright as a Yashica-Mat but is a bit brighter than the Rolleicord III. Since it only has a triplet, I wasn't expecting Xenar or Yashinon resolution wide open. However I still liked what it could do at f5.6. It is a very basic design, speeds limited to B,10-200, no double exposure prevention and red window film counter. The Super Ricohflex has the "auto stop" wind feature but just learned how to use it after the test roll.

Hope this helps and good luck!

[mike rosenlof]

I've been using Mamiya TLRs for 30 years now. I think well of them.

I suggest that if you just want to try out if the TLR, waist level, square works for you, get a Yashica 124G. It's not the cheapest, but if you decide you don't want to keep it, it will sell reasonably easily, and you're close to even.

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

[PMCC]

Originally Posted by mike rosenlof

The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

Minolta made the "Paradjuster" for the Autocord to provide precise parallax compensation for close up work.

Here it is: http://www.crocuta.com/yashica/paradjuster.html

[emilp]

Originally Posted by je2a3

Hi Emil,

Just uploaded test shots taken by these two cameras after a DIY CLA. Both had frozen focus due to the dreaded dried green grease. Surprisingly the younger Super Ricohflex shutter was hanging at 1/10 but a Naphtha bath + judicious use of a blower fixed it. As farlymac and others stated the lens is an A36, so I used a SOOGZ + 12585 lens hood for the test.

I also liked the geared focusing design and found the pics taken by the camera in the internet appealing. I did a lot of research to ascertain that if things go wrong DIY revival was within my abilities. The VF is not as bright as a Yashica-Mat but is a bit brighter than the Rolleicord III. Since it only has a triplet, I wasn't expecting Xenar or Yashinon resolution wide open. However I still liked what it could do at f5.6. It is a very basic design, speeds limited to B,10-200, no double exposure prevention and red window film counter. The Super Ricohflex has the "auto stop" wind feature but just learned how to use it after the test roll.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Thanks! Also, nice product shot there of those two.

[emilp]

Originally Posted by mike rosenlof

I suggest that if you just want to try out if the TLR, waist level, square works for you, get a Yashica 124G. It's not the cheapest, but if you decide you don't want to keep it, it will sell reasonably easily, and you're close to even.

The problem is, those are so trendy now the price is almost the same as a Mamiya 330f or 330s. And for the same money, surely the 330s are a much better value. But there's no doubt they are good performers, I've seen a lot of great shots taken with them.

Originally Posted by mike rosenlof

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

I already have a number of SLR's (though in practice I really only use my Nikons most of the time), so it's not that I lack the capability. By closeup, I don't mean macros, just closer than the usual three or four feet that seems to be the standard for most TLR's. It seems to me that the square format works well with close shots, and being able to do it looking down into the large screen would help. Crouching and squinting, not so smooth.

Of course I suppose one could get a similar experience with a Pentacon Six with a waist level finder. But if you're going to already look down anyway, might as well have a TLR. That's my random theory anyway.

Speaking of getting in close with SLR's, I do have a Yashica Dental Eye III - one of the few great relatively undiscovered secrets in camera deals. I'm looking forward to playing with that one. Can't beat a 100mm Macro with a built-in ring flash all for just over $100 (when I got it a few months ago), or from the looks of things, just over $200 now that word is slowly spreading.

Originally Posted by PMCC

Minolta made the "Paradjuster" for the Autocord to provide precise parallax compensation for close up work.

Here it is: http://www.crocuta.com/yashica/paradjuster.html

Nice, good to know!

[farlymac]

The Mamiya 330's have an automatic paralax indicator in the viewfinder to keep you from cutting off the image when you are only a few feet away. But for closer work, a paramender is great to have. Don't know why you don't see any generic models around, just Mamiya or Minolta.

Minolta also had a nifty B30 polarizing filter that bayoneted over both lenses (called an Autopole), so you could see the effect in the viewfinder. Worked great on my 124G. Alas, I sold it with the camera, and the guy I sold it to probably never used it.

PF

[Dan Daniel]

Originally Posted by farlymac

Don't know why you don't see any generic models around, just Mamiya or Minolta.

Dual lens caps from Yahsicas, Minoltas, and Rolleis being interchangeable tells me that the lens spacing is the same on these various models. Meaning that at least the Minolta Parajuster could be considered 'generic' for a whole series of cameras.

Not certain if the Rolleiflex Bay II and Bay III lens center distances are the same.

A ruler and simply raising the head will work. Or a spacer of some sort using various quick-release plates and brackets? Not as slick as the Minolta spring-loaded feature...

[emilp]

Originally Posted by farlymac

Minolta also had a nifty B30 polarizing filter that bayoneted over both lenses (called an Autopole), so you could see the effect in the viewfinder.

One of those would definitely be nice to have. Getting a quality B + W polarizer was one of my smarter photography investments.

[shadowfox]

Originally Posted by mike rosenlof

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

Depends on how close you want to be to your subjects.
I find that the Rolleinar and its Rolleiparkeil counterpart does a good job maintaining the framing consistency for subjects that are not closer than a foot away.

[KoNickon]

The Rolleinars are indispensible tools; no need for a Parajuster/Paramender tripod attachment. Bayonet I Rolleinars will fit Rolleicords, Autocords, Yashicamats, and Diacords.

[farlymac]

Okay, now we are talking about two different approaches to the same problem. The reason Mamiya designed the Paramender is, because of the bellows extension you have with the C220/C330 models, you don't need close-up lenses. With a Rollei style body of rigid lens mount, there was not enough movement to focus closer, so the auxilary lenses made more sense.

And on the interchangability of accessories, besides the lens centers being standardised, most of the cameras had the same size bayonet mount of B-30 (30mm), or Bay-1 as it's most commonly called these days. Then Rollei started making cameras with larger aperture lenses, and Bay-2 and-3 came about to accomodate them.

PF

[Armoured]

I've used and own a Mamiya, Diacord, an Airesflex, Rolleiflexi (both a 3.5 and a 2.8 model), and an Autocord. They can all take great and very sharp pictures with character. The Autocord and Diacord are actually my favourites, but I echo what others say: the Mamiya's are huge, the others all very nice in the hand, build quality on the Autocord is excellent (Rolleis too but everyone expects that). Main thing is to find something in good condition at a reasonable price.

I would not torture yourself about which one: go with whatever one you can find for not too much cash and try it out. If it turns out that you really like TLRs, you'll have plenty of time to indulge yourself later in more equipment.

The Mamiyas are the only ones I'd say to not get unless/until you're sure it 'works' for you. They are so big you won't just take it with you for a walkabout. Or at least I don't. The others are not quite pocketable but not intrusive; I find a smallish TLR ('cord size) gets in the way less than your average DSLR with a lens. The squarish box format lays against the body without getting in the way.

I also am in the camp that says don't bother with many accessories, at least at first. A lens hood is the only accessory that's really essential.

[charjohncarter]

Originally Posted by Armoured

I also am in the camp that says don't bother with many accessories, at least at first. A lens hood is the only accessory that's really essential.

That is correct. They maybe hard to find; but it is worth the look.

[emilp]

Originally Posted by Armoured

I would not torture yourself about which one: go with whatever one you can find for not too much cash and try it out. If it turns out that you really like TLRs, you'll have plenty of time to indulge yourself later in more equipment.

Well it's not really torture, more over-thinking it, which alas is not unusual for me. Luckily usually it works out for the best in the end.

[maddoc]

Inspired by this thread, I went actually out using this camera again

Shanghai GP3 / HC-110 "B" (Waltz A36 yellow)

[emilp]

Nice! Not bad for a Chinese camera. I give you most of the credit, but it does look like the lens does a decent job of being sharp all the way to the corners. At least the upper corners anyway - there seems to be a bit of softness in the lower corners. Do you remember what the aperture was on this one?

[maddoc]

Japanese Camera, I used the Ricohflex VII About the soft corners in the lower part of the frame, focus was close to infinity set and the lower part of the frame is out of the dof of the focal plane. Aperture was f/5.6.

[Austintatious]

Here is a shot from my VII. They are somewhat primitive but a lot of fun to use.

Master of the Road by carlosyashinon, on Flickr
And here is the Ricohflex in use.

Ricohflex Model VII by carlosyashinon, on Flickr
I need to take it out of the cabnet and use it more, but alas.....too many cameras !

[emilp]

Originally Posted by maddoc

Japanese Camera, I used the Ricohflex VII About the soft corners in the lower part of the frame, focus was close to infinity set and the lower part of the frame is out of the dof of the focal plane. Aperture was f/5.6.

Whoops. I had a long day so my barely-working brain spotted "Shanghai", ignored the rest, and translated it into "Hey, that Seagull camera did surprisingly well!"

5.6, not bad! Gotcha on the focus explanation. That makes sense.

[emilp]

Originally Posted by Austintatious

Here is a shot from my VII. They are somewhat primitive but a lot of fun to use.

I need to take it out of the cabnet and use it more, but alas.....too many cameras !

Thanks for posting those! Those cable shutter releases seem to be a pretty essential accessory for many TLR's at any kind of lower shutter speeds, even when handheld.