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Old 01-14-2012   #26
Juan Valdenebro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gb hill View Post
The yellow light is your slow speeds indicator light. If the light doesn't come on then the correct faster speed will be chosen. Sounds right to me Juan.
I agree there...

I just thought the camera WOULD USE 1/30th as the last correct shutter option BEFORE showing the yellow light... But no: it just does slow speeds with the yellow light turned on... And for a brief moment where the light is almost OK... As soon as light is a whole stop below the last OK light, the shutter goes to B...

I'll have to get some foam quickly, and check, apart from light leaks, the underexposure thing again...

Thanks Greg and everybody!

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Valdenebro View Post
Maybe I should put some foam seals and do another roll to test meter and shutter... But it's not easy to do it with an AE only camera... If it shoots at 1/500th only no matter the f-stop I set, I'll have no solution...

Cheers,

Juan
You only need to open the back to check if it only fires at 1/500

To have a look at the pad, remove the top: http://www.flickr.com/photos/csaveanu/3800705784/
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Old 01-14-2012   #28
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Juan - not sure if this will help but there are some instrucitons for seals here
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html

and some seal kits here
http://camerasealkit.com/
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Old 01-14-2012   #29
Juan Valdenebro
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Thanks a lot!

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #30
Juan Valdenebro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shac View Post
Juan - not sure if this will help but there are some instrucitons for seals here
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html

and some seal kits here
http://camerasealkit.com/
It was great help indeed, Shac!

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #31
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Juan,
You might take a look at Camerafurb.com if postage to U.S. is not too pricey. They specialize in Electros. Also see this thread for info on John Goodman and Interslice seals
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...ght=interslice.
Regards,
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Old 01-14-2012   #32
Juan Valdenebro
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Thanks John...

Well, I have to insist, to see if other member owning GTNs can help:

I just did a longer test with the camera open and looking through the lens to a white wall and to a light bulb, and in "OK light" (lower than red light and higher than yellow light) I SEE NO CHANGE AT ALL IN SHUTTER SPEEDS !!! Terrible. Only when the yellow light turns on, the camera uses a low shutter speed I can hear and see.

I need GTN shooters to confirm if they see and hear changes in shutter speed BEFORE the yellow light turns on.

And, if they have the little clunk when they begin to advance film or not.

Thanks.

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #33
Juan Valdenebro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwnash1 View Post
Juan,
You might take a look at Camerafurb.com if postage to U.S. is not too pricey. They specialize in Electros. Also see this thread for info on John Goodman and Interslice seals
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...ght=interslice.
Regards,
John
Looks like camerafurb.com doesn't exist...

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #34
Juan Valdenebro
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Unfortunately I have not a single tool here (not a single screwdriver, no tweezers, nothing!), and no place around to buy decent tools either, so I can't open the camera top to look for the pad and how it is... That's why I ask other members: to be able to confirm my camera is not varying shutter speeds the way other cameras do... To be sure it's really damaged...

If it's really malfunctioning, that's too much for me... I wouldn't repair it: I'd need two (heavy) international shippings plus the technician: maybe $300 to complete $400 for a camera that can be robbed here everyday in every corner... No way. I own other 14 cameras including 6 RFs, and two fast lenses in LTM and M mount... If the camera is that bad it deserves to die... In that case I'd borrow a big hammer and smash it. A harakiri: I need to see it working well or disappearing. I need to forget about it...

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-14-2012   #35
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Juan, the proper site for Russ is Camerarefurb.com . I mispelled it in another post, and that might be where John got the info.

Another thing you might want to check is how fresh is your battery? Alkalines have a lousy drop-off curve, going down constantly as soon as you start to use them. This could be affecting your meter readings. Silver oxide and Wein cells have the steady level of power over the life of the cell, and mimic the old mercury cells in that respect.

I've heard it both ways about the POD (Pad Of Death), that it should clunk on winding, and that it should only be a dull thud. Either way, as long as the thing winds and the shutter releases, it should be good to go. All my Yashicas (except the 35 ME, which is not an Electro series camera) clunk, some a little louder than the others. Only my GTN is no longer functional, as it constantly shows under exposure, so it's due for a rebuild.

It's a bummer that your camera has problems, especially since you paid decent money for a supposedly good camera. If it hasn't been too long since you purchased it, you should be able to get some satisfaction either by contacting the seller about the condition of the camera, and requesting a refund, or you could go through eBay Resolution if you paid by PayPal. Or you could join the many folks here who fix their own gear because they can't afford to have someone else do it for them. And sometimes it's a lot of fun. Not to mention the satisfaction you get when the thing works correctly after reassembly.

Check with Jon Goodman about the seals (there is a thread in the Repair forum with his e-mail address, something about 'What happend to Interslice?'), and if that doesn't solve your problems, just take things one at a time. Sometimes it's just a simple little thing that either breaks or makes a camera. Get a copy of the manual if you don't have one, and study it for any hints as to what is supposed to happen when you operate the camera. They don't all work alike, and some have some really odd quirks.

PF
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Old 01-14-2012   #36
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Hi Juan,

I believe that the "thunk" sound issue gets blown way out of proportion. As you have already noticed, some people will swear that the thunk means a good POD, while others claim it means that it most definitely needs replacing. I have been following this issue myself for a good long time, and know of many people who have perfectly functioning cameras with, and without, the thunk. Some say theirs developed a thunk after replacing the POD; others had the thunk vanish after a replacement. Go figure!!

I say just go ahead and replace the light seals, load up some film and see what is what. For the record, my GSN makes a rather loud "thunk" long before the wind lever reaches the halfway mark. By the way, even IF your POD needed replacing, it is not difficult to do. If you are not confident doing this yourself, you can get a camera shop to do it for you; in fact the procedure is usually included in the cost of a regular CLA.

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Old 01-14-2012   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Valdenebro View Post
Thanks John...

Well, I have to insist, to see if other member owning GTNs can help:

I just did a longer test with the camera open and looking through the lens to a white wall and to a light bulb, and in "OK light" (lower than red light and higher than yellow light) I SEE NO CHANGE AT ALL IN SHUTTER SPEEDS !!! Terrible. Only when the yellow light turns on, the camera uses a low shutter speed I can hear and see.

I need GTN shooters to confirm if they see and hear changes in shutter speed BEFORE the yellow light turns on.

And, if they have the little clunk when they begin to advance film or not.

Thanks.

Cheers,

Juan
Have a GS, yes I can see/hear changes in shutter speed before yellow light turns on (yellow light turn on at 1/30, so there should be 4 stops; 60, 125 250, 500 to red light)

Advance film: Yes a clunk and then click,click,click......
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Old 01-15-2012   #38
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The 'Thunk' should be of metal striking rubber. If the rubber pad's gone it should sound like metal striking metal. I wouldn't worry too much about it yet as this is a solid rubber pad, not foam.

My GSN does weird things in low light at F/16. The shutter will stay open until I either turn the camera to a light source or re-tension the shutter.
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Old 01-15-2012   #39
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I have several of these cameras.

I wrote up a short article on how to test a Yashica Electro.

The lights. Sounds like your lights work properly; that's good.

The shutter. Yes, you can definitely distinguish 1/15th from 1/125 or 1/500th before the yellow light comes on. Juan, if you set the camera to B, does the shutter hold open as it should? In this camera, electronics energize a magnet to hold the shutter open for anything longer than 1/500th, especially B. This should be easy to see. If not, then you have a 1/500th camera until fixed. You can shoot sunny f/16.

The cluck on film advance. In all my good Electros, I hear a definite clunk as I move the film advance lever. I hear that some Electros still work without the clunk, but the clunk is correct and a good sign. No clunk means the POD should be replaced.

If the camera only works at 1/500th, then either the POD or the electronics are bad, or both. I had a GTN that only did 1/500th; after a couple of tries, I sent it to Mark Hama who has replacement parts.

Hope this all helps.
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Old 01-15-2012   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
My GSN does weird things in low light at F/16. The shutter will stay open until I either turn the camera to a light source or re-tension the shutter.
First, are you sure it's weird and not correct. The GSN/GTN will hold the shutter open for 45 seconds when needed. Have you tried waiting it out?

I had one Electro the gave good exposures at every f-stop except f/16 where the exposures were 3x too long. In the Electros, there is a resistor for each f-stop which is selected by a sliding switch as you move the aperture ring. Maybe a dirty switch will resolve by exercising the aperture ring. Maybe it's a bad resistor. Maybe you don't want to use f/16
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Old 01-15-2012   #41
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Yes I've tried, it wouldn't close the shutter even after a minute and a half.
I've had the front of the lens off and cleaned the sliding contacts, but to no avail.
It's not really an issue as I never shoot at f/16 in low light. It appears to work fine in normal light though.

I have yet to check the accuracy of the exposures on this camera. Planning to do so, after a loaded Signet 35 runs out of film somewhere this week.
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Old 01-15-2012   #42
Juan Valdenebro
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Thanks again, friends!

sig: definitely I have no shutter speed changes except when the yellow warning comes,

Sebastian: I just checked B... The shutter stays open as it should be, but the yellow light turns on ALWAYS when B is set and I press the shutter, no matter if I aim to a source of light at ISO1000 and f/1.7...

No speed changes=underexposure, as I saw on my first roll. No clunk what? If the rubber pad was gone, I should have a wild clunk, but I have nothing... Bad electronics maybe... I guess not an easy repair.

I think the camera is good for nothing... I won't argue with the seller after two months... Thanks a lot everyone!

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-15-2012   #43
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Another discovery: the shutter makes a clear click a millimeter before actually shooting... After that click it is possible to advance film no matter if the shot wasn't taken! It is also possible not to advance film, and after a while the shutter can be pressed again (this time there's no previous click) and the shot is taken... (?!)

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-15-2012   #44
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To clunk or not to clunk, that is the question.

I've replaced the POD in two cameras so far. A GSN and a GS.
Both times it went from a faintly emasculating click to a satisfyingly masculine clunk. A clunk worthy of the heft of the camera in question.
I think you have a shriveled POD that needs replacing.
If not, (which is quite possible) my guess would be a dirty contact.

I hate thinking of that poor old camera getting thrown in the trash. Arrrgh...

Please Juan, for the love of everything sacred, find a worthy kid or an old gas afflicted sucker somewhere that likes to tinker and give it them. Don't throw it out.

Some old photogs soul might be trapped in it.

This is why I much prefer the older 1000 and 5000 series Yashica's. Less bs, full manual... and the shutter buttons are so much smoooooother.
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Old 01-15-2012   #45
Juan Valdenebro
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Quote:
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I hate thinking of that poor old camera getting thrown in the trash. Arrrgh...

Please Juan, for the love of everything sacred, find a worthy kid or an old gas afflicted sucker somewhere that likes to tinker and give it them. Don't throw it out.

Some old photogs soul might be trapped in it.
Hahaha! That was great, Jack!

I just sent a message to camerarefurb.com explaining the behavior, and asked them if the no clunk at all & sticky 1/500th seem familiar to them and if they think they can fix it...

I wasn't able to kill the camera...

I can't just lose the battle! I must fight! I wouldn't really forget it: I'd just remember the problem, AND also remember my crime!

So I'll wait for their answer... Finally, that will be the only way to know how it feels to shoot a well working GTN...

Thanks for your kind words, Jack!

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-15-2012   #46
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Juan, summarizing: The lights work, you have only 1/500th on Auto, and the shutter does stay open on B. There's a click before the shutter fires, and you can advance the film at that point. You don't hear the characteristic clunk on film advance.

This makes me think the POD is bad and the electronics are OK. Definitely repairable for less than $100 in the US and probably in Europe as well. Good luck with your camera.
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Old 01-15-2012   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSebastianMoran View Post
Juan, summarizing: The lights work, you have only 1/500th on Auto, and the shutter does stay open on B. There's a click before the shutter fires, and you can advance the film at that point. You don't hear the characteristic clunk on film advance.

This makes me think the POD is bad and the electronics are OK. Definitely repairable for less than $100 in the US and probably in Europe as well. Good luck with your camera.
That's it exactly, Sebastian...

Camerarefurb has a more than decent price: $60, so I guess I'll pay more for the international shipping (twice) from and to Colombia: but the big risk is the camera can be stolen, especially when sent back... Well, I'll take that risk... I might be lucky this time...

Cheers,

Juan
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Old 01-15-2012   #48
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[Looks like camerafurb.com doesn't exist...]

Juan, I am sorry for the typo on my part. I see you have the correct name now, camerarefurb.com. As you say, they have "more than a decent price" and they do very nice work.
John
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Old 01-15-2012   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble View Post
...

I had a similar problem like you with my Yashica TL Electro. I had replaced the foam but there was a light leak visible in some of my photos. It took a few days to finally figure out what the problem was, On this SLR there's also a foam seal cushion under the lens of the eye-piece....if that goes, it lets light in in at the top just behind the shutter curtains.
Thanks, that's good to know. I have a couple of those old work horses. I also still have a Yashica TL Super that I haven't used in longer than I have used either of my TL Electros (One is the black model). They are still good cameras.
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Old 01-18-2012   #50
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Wow. I didn't check the forum in a while, and I completely missed participating in this post!

I want to thank everyone for their kind words. I really appreciate it!

Juan, click on the link at the bottom of my signature for a POD explanation. It should make things a little clearer for you.

Russ
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