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Polaroid 450 with all the bits!
Old 06-20-2011   #1
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Polaroid 450 with all the bits!

Hi guys

Recently got a cloud filter, cable release and a huge case of Hi-Power flashcubes for my 450. Here are some photos taken with it:

The camera (rubbish iphone pic)




Cheers
ped
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Old 06-20-2011   #2
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Nice, I don't know what that filter is, but I have the 581 portrait lens that has goggles for the RF. I think I got it for $10. Also that flash is an important accessory; lots of Polaroid films have high shadow drop off, so get so you can use it indoors and for fill outdoors.
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Old 06-20-2011   #3
Brian Sweeney
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Very nice. The 450 was my most used Polaroid. I love the focus flash.
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Old 06-20-2011   #4
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Last week I saw a guy in Shoho NYC taking pictures with an old beat up version of this camera and did the Polaroid transfers on nice rag paper on the spot on his street card.
To bad it started raining otherwise I would have bought a shot from him.
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Old 06-20-2011   #5
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I have about 4 of those...a 360, 250, and I'll have to look at the others for model numbers.

I got some batteries for them once but the attachment buttons on the batteries broke off. Where's a good place to find the batteries for the bigger units like the 360?

I'm please that film is still available through Fuji.
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Old 06-20-2011   #6
Todd Frederick
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I have a 420 and I have batteries in the 360 but they are not working correctly. They are #532 3 volt alkalines. I bought them on-line. The attachment clamp rips out on the negative side. I need a better made battery.

I just tried the 250 (had some film in it and a good battery) and it works fine. Need batteries for the 360.

Last edited by Todd Frederick : 06-20-2011 at 17:19. Reason: added text
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Old 06-27-2011   #7
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I found my 440 (not 420) with film and good battery. I still need to find a supplier or good quality batteries for the 360. The film in the 440 was quite old and produced a very abstract image. I need to sell all but one as well as a Polaroid Sun and a One Step. The 250 has some fresh film, a good battery and produces nice photos.
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Old 06-27-2011   #8
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The 360 used built in Nicad batteries- some have replaced them with alkaline.

http:[email protected]/5195500877/

Not the easiest to work on! The 250 would be easier to work on, replace the 4.5v with 3 AAA batteries. Also- I have read that the Timer in the 360, 350, 450 can interfere with the Fuji pack film. I read that the back of the Fiji pack is thinner, and the timer pushes against it. Someone thickened the back with an old Polaroid pack. I have not run out of Pack film, so have not tried the Fuji in mine.
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Old 06-27-2011   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney View Post
The 360 used built in Nicad batteries- some have replaced them with alkaline.

http:[email protected]/5195500877/

Not the easiest to work on! The 250 would be easier to work on, replace the 4.5v with 3 AAA batteries. Also- I have read that the Timer in the 360, 350, 450 can interfere with the Fuji pack film. I read that the back of the Fiji pack is thinner, and the timer pushes against it. Someone thickened the back with an old Polaroid pack. I have not run out of Pack film, so have not tried the Fuji in mine.
I have the Automatic100, the conversion to 3 AAA batteries was easy. And I don't have to worry about battery health. I just change often.

Also I left the 2 AA batteries in my Color Pack II for about 15 years, and they were still good: amazing.
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Old 06-27-2011   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney View Post
I read that the back of the Fiji pack is thinner, and the timer pushes against it. Someone thickened the back with an old Polaroid pack. I have not run out of Pack film, so have not tried the Fuji in mine.
Yep it's a bit thicker so you have to swap the plastic back on the Fuji pack for the metal one from the Polaroid pack. Doesn't take long, but make sure you keep the metal backs from your Polaroid packs!
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Polaroid
Old 07-06-2011   #11
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Polaroid

I use a 100 and the 3 aaa's are a easy install and way cheaper to go.
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Old 07-06-2011   #12
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I found the right sized batteries for about a fiver for two, so it wasn't an issue to be honest.
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Old 08-04-2011   #13
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That's an awesome portrait! Very impressive work.

I have a 350. It's an easy mod to change the battery holder. Mine used 2x 3V cells (one for the shutter / lightmeter and the other for the print timer). I now use 2x AAA. I still have the electronic print timer, but as Fuji pack film chemistry self terminates, it's not required.


Polaroid Land Camera Battery Mod by zzpza, on Flickr

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Sweeney View Post
Also- I have read that the Timer in the 360, 350, 450 can interfere with the Fuji pack film. I read that the back of the Fiji pack is thinner, and the timer pushes against it. Someone thickened the back with an old Polaroid pack. I have not run out of Pack film, so have not tried the Fuji in mine.
First time I used the Fuji pack film in a Polaroid camera it was a nightmare. In mine it wasn't the timer that was causing a problem, it's the two big springs that push on the film pack. As the Fuji ones are plastic which bends there was too much tension on the film pack meaning that it was nigh impossible to pull the print out once exposed without opening the back of the camera slightly. There are 2 solutions. The first, as mentioned was to swap the metal back from a Polaroid film pack on to a Fuji one thereby spreading out the force of the springs. Obviously this would have to be done each time you put a fresh film in. The 2nd solution is to remove the springs. As I plan to only use Fuji film packs in this camera, I removed the springs. I don't have any pressure problems anymore. I was a little concerned about the location of the film plane, but all looks OK. Here's an example pic after the conversion.


Polaroid 350 - 002 by zzpza, on Flickr
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Old 12-13-2011   #14
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Great to hear from other Land Camera fans. I'm changing the back of the fuji packs currently, but I'll take a look at removing the springs next time I open the camera up. I'll give you a shout if I have any problems.

I just received a #561 portrait kit which I'll have a play with later today!

Cheers
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Old 12-16-2011   #15
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zzpza I still have two Polaroid packs left but from then on I'll use Fuji only so I'll want to remove the springs you mention.

Is it the vertical metal arms in the photo, just to the left of the timer?

Cheers

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Old 12-21-2011   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
zzpza I still have two Polaroid packs left but from then on I'll use Fuji only so I'll want to remove the springs you mention.

Is it the vertical metal arms in the photo, just to the left of the timer?
You are correct, have a look here:



They just snap off. Be careful of sharp edges!

Last edited by zzpza : 12-21-2011 at 07:52. Reason: Clarity
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Old 12-21-2011   #17
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Brill, thanks - so now the Fuji packs are fine? Are Polaroid ones now unusable/too loose? Suppose one could put a block of foam behind the pack.
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Old 12-21-2011   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
Brill, thanks - so now the Fuji packs are fine? Are Polaroid ones now unusable/too loose? Suppose one could put a block of foam behind the pack.
I've only ever used Fuji packs in the camera, so I can't comment on how it works with Polaroid ones. This mod totally resolved my problems using Fuji packs, but I have heard of other people still having pressure problems and having to remove the timer from the back of the camera also.
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Old 12-21-2011   #19
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Thanks, I'll give it a try then. I'm quite expert in switching the backs in the dark now but I'll be pleased if this works.

I'll let you know - thanks for the help!
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Old 12-21-2011   #20
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This is great. To see fellow Polaroid shooter here.

I'm going to use my 195 Polaroid at a Christmas dinner this weekend.
Need to get some Fuji 3000 ASA film.
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Old 12-21-2011   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowfox View Post
...my 195 Polaroid...
<drool>!

I would love a Polaroid I could manually set the exposure on, but they are all too expensive
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Old 12-21-2011   #22
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Very nice. Do you use a normal meter?
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Old 12-22-2011   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzpza View Post
<drool>!

I would love a Polaroid I could manually set the exposure on, but they are all too expensive
Trust me, I know.
Waited for a long time till I find this one with the price I can justify, pristine with cover, close-up adapter. They go nuts with the price nowadays on ebay.



It's a big hit in parties because people nowadays don't expect to see a nice B&W prints coming out of an old camera like this.



Sample prints that I took at my friends' Silver Anniversary celebration.
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Old 12-22-2011   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
Very nice. Do you use a normal meter?
Yes, just like with any other manual cameras.
The 3000 ISO film makes shooting indoors a breeze.
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Old 12-22-2011   #25
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Interesting. How do you equate the f stops on a standard meter (f2-22) for the lens on the Polaroid?

I realy like the 3000 speed film. It has superb shades and has something I haven't been able to get from 35mm or digital. And you're right, nothing beats pulling a print out of the camera.

Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?

ped
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Old 12-22-2011   #26
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Hi Ped,
For the manual cameras such as the 180 or 195, the exposure with a meter is just as with any other manual camera. I have a Gossen Lunasix F with EV values, so setting exposure with my 180 is very simple. With the 180, the f/stops range from f/4.5 to a pinhole f/90!

I have a 250 also, and that has f/8.8 as the wide open exposure. I'm not sure what the other aperture is (you get to pick two). When using my Metz 450 flash on "auto" mode, I usually set it to f/8, and then set the ISO to about 64 to compensate (with Fuji 100 films).

At the current time, I peel apart the individual images one at a time. I still time development with a timer. Polaroid makes a nice mechanical one that clips to the camera strap (#128), but any small kitchen timer will do.
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Old 12-22-2011   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?

ped
yeah I've heard about that "self termination" stuff as well but if that is the case then why does Fuji give us those temperature/time tables? there's also no mention of self-termination in the data sheets that Fuji have on their site (if I recall... maybe I'm wrong).

the cold clip is a pretty okay place to put a print (once it's dried a bit... and don't put a fresh print into a book, it'll stick to the paper!) but I'm also wondering how to deal with multiple photos or even where to put the negative if I want to keep it.

speaking of the cold clip, can I use that for shooting sub-zero? or just above zero? because otherwise I can't really shoot outside for another... four months?

(so 120 it is!)
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Old 12-23-2011   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
Interesting. How do you equate the f stops on a standard meter (f2-22) for the lens on the Polaroid?
On the manual models the camera is marked as expected with the normal shutter and aperture markings. On the automatic models it's not so clear. I assume the large marks are 1 stop increments, but they could be half stop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ped View Post
Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?
Yep. I shoot a bunch and then find somewhere quiet (and not windy!) to sit down and peel the prints apart. I then let them dry for a few minutes otherwise they stick to each other. A really good indicator I use is after you peel the print, it will start to curl slightly and then straighten out again as it dries. When it is flat it is dry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mooge View Post
yeah I've heard about that "self termination" stuff as well but if that is the case then why does Fuji give us those temperature/time tables? there's also no mention of self-termination in the data sheets that Fuji have on their site (if I recall... maybe I'm wrong).
Yep, I guarantee you it 100% self terminates. The chemical reaction still needs to happen and this is effected by the temperature of the print. The guide printed on the sleeve is the minimum development time. The longest I have waited to peel a print is about 15 minutes. I wouldn't wait much longer as the chemistry starts to dry on the print which leaves marks.

Just checked the datasheet and Fuji don't recommend longer than 8 minutes...

Quote:
If development times are shorter than specified or longer than 8 minutes, undesired photos may result.
Hope that helps

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Old 12-23-2011   #29
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Great, thanks chaps. That might make shooting a few shots in a row much easier.
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Old 12-25-2011   #30
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The self-termination stuff is great info to have. I've got a couple of the el-cheapo Polaroid Pro-Packs with the big flashgun handle, they're fun to use if you don't mind popping the flash.

I think I may sell my Instax 500AF and step up to a better peel-apart Polaroid, I like them better than the integral film.
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Old 12-25-2011   #31
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Happy Polaroid Xmas everyone!

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Old 12-27-2011   #32
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Ha, cool dog!

Quote:
Originally Posted by zzpza View Post
Because of this pic, I noticed all the dust in the lens, so took the 'lens board' apart and clean the lens. This web site shows how to take the camera apart, but I would offer a word of warning. The PCB for the electronics is a flexible one, with the wires coming from the battery soldered to a floating section of the PCB. I think I disturbed them when I took the camera apart (or they had a dry joint) as when I put it all back together the shutter no longer worked. I had to dig out the iron and rejuvenate a few of the connections. All appears fine now and I have a clean lens to boot.
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Old 01-03-2012   #33
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Ok I took the springs out and she's working brilliantly.

Took delivery of a box of film today. Here she is also with a box of flashcubes. I've attached the portrait kit and cloud filter. Oh and cable release.
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Old 01-03-2012   #34
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Nice
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Old 01-03-2012   #35
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Inspired by your kit photo, I had a look at a well known online auction website (I don't know this board's policy about linking to auctions) and someone is trying to sell what looks like an identical shutter release cable for 70/$110!

I think I'll modify my camera to take 'normal' shutter release cables.

I guess this is a 'hipster' tax?
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Old 01-03-2012   #36
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Yeah I know I spent ages looking for one that wasn't a rip off... I found one bundled in with some other stuff in the end I think. You could fairly easily modify a cable to work though I think.
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