Rolleinar?

[Richard DeYoung]

[UI have a complete set of Vivitar Oarallax correcting closeup sets for a bay 1 lens. they are as follows:
Number 1 permits focusing from 39 to18 inches
Number 2 permits focusing from 18 to 13 inches
Number 3 permits forucing from 13 to 8 inches.
The last time I used them was about 3 years ago and they worked fine.
Will sell the whole set including the leather cases (3) and the instructions for $50.00
Richard DeYoung
rcd7112@windstream.net

[wallace]

$50 is a fantastic price! I had to pay more for my set...

wallace

[raid]

I have the three Rolleinars for the 2.8 models, but I hardly evry use these optics. This thread has encouraged me to put them to use.

[uhligfd]

The Rolleinar are diopters that correspond to their index or number:
Rolleinar 1 = 1 diopter, i.e. the infinity focus is shifted to 1/1 meter = 100 cm; the Rolleinar 2 is a 2 diopter lens, so the infinity focus point is shifted to 1/2 meter = 50 cm. And for the Rolleinar 3, infinity shifts to 1/ ... well, did you get the simple math? --- to 1/? meter (Solution 1/3 meter = 33 cm).

And since the Rolleis have a closest focus distance of 1 meter (= 1 diopter), the Rolleinar 1 will focus down to 1 + 1 diopter (Lens full extension plus Rolleinar 1 diopter addition) = 2 diopters or focusing from 1 m to 50 cm.
The Rolleinar 2 from 1/2 (50 cm) to 1/(2+1) = 1/3 meter= 33 cm (2 diopters from the Rolleinar 2 plus the 1 from lens board extension).

And the Rolleinar 3 from 1/3 m to 1/4 m = 25 cm.

Now you can also add two diopters such as the 1 and 2 to get object distances from the front of the lens between 1/(1+2) to 1/(1+1+2) meters or from 1/3 m = 33 cm to 1/4 m = 25 cm etc.

Diopter arithmetic is so simple! The prismas on the viewing lens will line up and there is much fun to be had here. Enjoy!

Minimal object distance from front of lens with all 3 Rolleinars is 1/(1+1+2+3) = 1/7 m = 14 cm. With an 8 cm (80 mm) lens that is almost a 1:1.6 reduction and produces an image of a size 9 by 9 cm square in reality on the MF film.

[ellisson]

I just acquired Rolleinar 1 and 2 sets. Each set has 3 parts: A prism with the black rim, and two identical thinner lenses, which I assume are the diopters. I think one of the diopters needs to be attached in front of the prism on the viewing lens, and the other diopter goes on the taking lens. Is this the correct set up? Thanks!

[Nathan67]

Originally Posted by ellisson

I just acquired Rolleinar 1 and 2 sets. Each set has 3 parts: A prism with the black rim, and two identical thinner lenses, which I assume are the diopters. I think one of the diopters needs to be attached in front of the prism on the viewing lens, and the other diopter goes on the taking lens. Is this the correct set up? Thanks!

Yes, you need one Rolleinar on the taking lens and one on the viewing lens, in addition on the viewing lens you need the Rolleiparkeil (prism). be sure to orientate the red dot on the prism at the top...

Really easy to use.. enjoy!

Nathan

[Nathan67]

oh , I see that you ask if the diopter goes in front of the prism.. no its the other way around... the diopter on the viewing lens first, then the prism...

[ellisson]

Nathan,
Yes, that is what I meant, first the rolleinar, then prism on the viewing lens.

Thank you for clarifying this! Now to try it out!

Gary

[jbielikowski]

Could anybody can help me to indetify with bayonet got my rolleiflex? According to serial number and appearance it should be 3.5 C, it has Tessar lens, so it should be bay I, but I'm not sure. Here's the picture of it.

[Wayno]

Your Rolleiflex seems quite unusual. If it has a Tessar lens it should be bay 1, but your camera shares some characteristics with the 3.5E model (which were fitted with Planar/Xenotar lenses and are bay 2 size). It has the nameplate and strap hangers of the 3.5E model, and the bayonet size and spacing also looks to be the same as the 3.5E. I mightn't be remembering all of this correctly, but it does seem a bit weird to me.

[rolleistef]

It definitevely is a 3.5C, have a look at camera #27 on that page :
http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tl.../all_TLR.shtml

Then Bayonet 1, as for any 3.5 tessar!

[Wayno]

That's right, I'd forgotten that the 3.5E is also known as the 3.5C. But... it should have a Planar/Xenotar and be bay 2 shouldn't it? The MX-EVS (or K4B - camera number 8 on that Rolleiclub link) is similar and has a Tessar (or Xenar) lens, but as I mentioned it has a different nameplate, strap hangers, etc.

Did any of the 3.5C/3.5E's come with a Tessar from the factory?

[jbielikowski]

Thank guys, I wasnt sure what rolleiclub shows because with the 3.5C they have spec of 2.8 version. the list of serial numbers also wasnt unanimous, one say 3.5C and two 3.5E. Wayno it's making photos and that's most important

[Wayno]

Originally Posted by jbielikowski

Wayno it's making photos and that's most important

Yes, correct. I suspect that the Tessar has been retrofitted to your camera. As long as it's been correctly installed that's all that matters. If you want Rolleinars, a lens cap or a lens hood I suspect that bay 2 will be the correct size, but it would pay to measure or try before you buy.

[anglophone1]

http://www.photoshelter.com/c/clive_...00OZimsIrQAq0/

Rolleiflex 2.8 [same age as me] with rolleinar
All shot during a transatlantic voyage aboard "Seabourn Spirit" during November 2009.

[Wayno]

Great series Clive!

[Mudman]

With the Walz version of the Rolleinar

[jbielikowski]

Rolleinar 2 with bay I just arrived... and now I know 3.5 C does not have bay I, Tessar was misleading. Nevertheless 15mins and some cardboard made it fit.

[Wayno]

Aha, so it is bay 2. I was pretty sure that you're camera would originally have been fitted with a Planar or Xenotar. It sounds like you've used a bit of ingenuity to make the bay 1 Rolleinar fit.

[MISH]

my rollinar set #1 bay 1 does not have one that is thicker than the other both are the same ...did they ever come from Rollei like this or did someone put two of the taking filters together (it did come in a nice Rollie case)

[Thomas78]

There are two different versions available.
The older version consist of two rolleinar, one for each lens and a "rolleiparkeil" (a prism) for parallax compensation, so there are three pieces.

The more modern version has a rolleinar for the taking lens and a combination of the prism and a rolleinar in one piece, the "Heidosmat-Rolleinar" for the viewing lens.

[Darkhorse]

I've been out with the Autocord today in an effort to alleviate desires for other MF systems. I ended up on the coast again (because I didn't want to pay $15 to park where I wanted to go) and I used my Rolleinar 2 a fair bit. I thought I'd post them here to help give an idea of what they can do. They're tremendously helpful and make a TLR a lot more versatile.

Excuse the size. Hey, it's medium format. Big negs rule. TMAX 100 in HC110 Dil B.



This one is cropped a bit as well:

[froyd]

According to the Rolleinar DOF char, at 19 3/4" it seems like I would need f11 to have 3" focus zone (enough fot tip of the nose to back of eye socket). Are all those gorgeous rolleinar portraits I see on the web really shot at f11 of greater?

[Costo Kim]

rolleinar I on rolleiflex 2.8c plarar


201004-203-rollei28c-400tx-00 by Costo, on Flickr

[Spavinaw]

For those using Rolleinars or similar devices, heed Wayno's words, "What you see on the ground glass is not exactly what you get on film". I was doing a product shot with colored paper background. Everything looked good in the finder when I took the shot, but when the film was developed I found that the taking lens lens was looking slightly above the background paper. Bummer as it was a slide. Remember this, parallax is only corrected at the point of focus. This is true with any parallax correcting finder, not just TLR's. However, there is a cure for this. A Paramender or similar device is a short pole that mounts between a TLR and a tripod. The length of the pole can be changed a distance just equal to the distance between the centers of the taking lens and viewing lens. First compose the picture with the camera in the lower position. Then raise the camera to the upper position. Now the taking lens is exactly where the viewing lens was, and it will take exactly what the viewing lens saw!