Getting into home development

[MaxFrank]

As the local photo store asks €3.95 for a roll of 120 film to be sent out to a Fuji lab and the pro lab asks €6.75 per roll for development I have been thinking about developing myself.
I still have most of the film I got when I bought my Mamiya RB67 secondhand, about 18 rolls of FP4, 2 Delta 100 and 5 Acros 100. After I have finished these films I will probably switch over to just Acros 100 for long exposures and Tri-X for the rest. Due to the few quantities of Velvia 50 I shoot and the difficulty of E-6 processing I will probably get them developed. Also I might start doing some C41 processing in the future.

I pretty much know the items to get; filmtank, thermometer, clips to hang film, wetting agent, bottles to store mixed chemicals (is it possible to cleaned out bottles for this, Spa for example), funnels and measuring jugs, syringe and a big box for waterbaths and storage.

What I'm not so sure about are the chemicals. Which ones to choose from the many varieties. So far Rodinal seems the cheapest and easiest as it is one shot, but D76 or ID11 are also good beginner choices I have read. Only thing I don't know about the last two is if they are one shot or multiple use. Ilford or Kodak stop and fixer are also pretty okay right? When do you know when they are exhausted?

[BobYIL]

First to know: It's one of the easiest things to do in photography; cooking tomato soup is far more difficult than developing film.

For new starters as well as experienced photographers, D76/ID-11 has always been an excellent choice as it can be used as one shot or multiple use depending on preference and it keeps very well and quite economical too. BTW, almost all B&W films can be developed in it; suitable also for push and pull developing.

Ilford or Kodak fixers are all first class products, when you buy one read the instruction sheet or Ilford and Kodak sites are full of pdf files to provide detailed information on any of such products. Take your time to read them carefully, you will find the answers to all your questions better than we members could be supplying here in a few lines.

[Gabriel M.A.]

Originally Posted by BobYIL

First to know: It's one of the easiest things to do in photography; cooking tomato soup is far more difficult than developing film.

How do you cook your tomato soup?!?

[BobYIL]

Originally Posted by Gabriel M.A.

How do you cook your tomato soup?!?

Not out of the can sort of course! I know two different recipes and they both require fresh ingredients..

[isuperfish]

How would you keep the temperature constant?

[charjohncarter]

Be consistent, same everything every time, unless you are not satisfied with your results. Then cange ONLY one variable at a time.

[maddoc]

One initial advice (Due to my profession - chemist -), I would highly recommend to buy dedicated plastic bottles for storage of photo chemicals and not use any kind of food container ... (especially if you have kids around....).

Depending on the amount and frequency you are going to develop the usage liquid developers to be diluted for "one-shot" working solutions (Rodinal, HC-110) might be more economical and easier to use than powder-based developer. Also, if you decide on buying tank / stainless steel reels instead of plastic then calculate some practicing time until you can spool the film into the reels without problems. Plastic reels might be easier to use for a beginner but need to be cleaned carefully and have to be absolutely dry prior to spooling the film.

A thermometer, stop-watch (or the Iphone devchart appli), a changing bag (large !) are necessary and some beaker, a funnel, and the chemicals.

Initially, use only one developer until you get good and reproducible results.

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

All developers should be treated as 'one-shot', no matter what the manufacturer says. Never, ever, reuse developer. All you're doing is introducing possible inconsistencies to save pennies. Literally pennies. Developers are all CHEAP on a per-roll basis.

D-76 is a good general-purpose developer. Maddoc's suggestions above are all good,especially about buying new plastic developer bottles.

[brbo]

Originally Posted by Chriscrawfordphoto

All developers should be treated as 'one-shot', no matter what the manufacturer says. Never, ever, reuse developer. All you're doing is introducing possible inconsistencies to save pennies. Literally pennies. Developers are all CHEAP on a per-roll basis.

I disagree. At least for me 15 EUR vs. less than 1 EUR per one C-41 film is NOT just a few pennies.

So, I reuse. No matter what some say about reusing developers.

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Originally Posted by brbo

I disagree. At least for me 15 EUR vs. less than 1 EUR per one C-41 film is NOT just a few pennies.

So, I reuse. No matter what some say about reusing developers.

I'm talking about black and white. Color systems are designed for reuse and replenishment and actually work better when reused and kept in regular use.

[Fotohuis]

I'm talking about black and white. Color systems are designed for reuse and replenishment and actually work better when reused and kept in regular use.

Correct, for small developer tanks use B&W in one shot and I think a liquid concentrate is easier then any powder developer.
A good choice for slow and medium speed films: Rodinal/R09 one shot. And for medium and high speed films: HC-110 or D74 (a new, modern type developer).

For C41, Fuji-Hunt (Rollei Digibase C41) is very easy in use. But you need some temperature control on 37,8C/100F which is the biggest problem in C41 color negative development. For a C41 working solution 270ml-300ml in rotary (Jobo) development you can re-use 4-6 (2x2 - 3x2) C41 films without any problem.

When having a Jobo processor you can also do B&W. HC-110 and D74 is not really any problem but Rodinal (a high acutance developer) is less suitable for rotary development. This type developer needs less agitation.

In stop and fixer the easiest way is a liquid concentrate too. For stop based on Citric Acid with indicator (1+19). For fixer, any rapid fixer (1+4) will do it. For regular B&W films you do not need any hardener too. It only slows down the wash step.
Further you need a wetting agent to prevent drops and stripes when drying the film. Depending on the quality of the tap water it could be possible that you need destilled water too. The parameters of tap water can vary in a pretty wide bandwith.

[Roger Hicks]

[quote=Chriscrawfordphoto;1873647]All developers should be treated as 'one-shot', no matter what the manufacturer says. Never, ever, reuse developer. All you're doing is introducing possible inconsistencies . . . QUOTE]
Dear Chris,

Unless you use fully seasoned developers.

Cheers,

R.

[zauhar]

If no one said it yet, get Samigon reels. Getting the film in the tank was the most frustrating and error-prone part of the process when I started out.

Developing film is the both easy and fun, once you get the hang of it. Temperature control is not that big a deal - in the Summer my tap water i almost exactly 20 C, and in the Winter it is easy to set up a water bath and keep the temp constant to better than 1 C.

Randy

[Roger Hicks]

Originally Posted by zauhar

If no one said it yet, get Samigon reels. . . .

Dear Randy,

Or better still, Hewes.

Cheers,

R.

[zauhar]

Originally Posted by Roger Hicks

Dear Randy,

Or better still, Hewes.

Cheers,

R.

Roger, you mean stainless?

I have tried less expensive metal reels that I got as part of someone's darkroom kit, and find them totally unusable (well I CAN get the film on, provided I am in full light).

Maybe I shouldn't comment unless I have used a better reel of this type, but from my perspective the Samigon reels are almost trouble-free, provided they are dry - don't you think they are better for a beginner?

Randy

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Originally Posted by zauhar

Roger, you mean stainless?

I have tried less expensive metal reels that I got as part of someone's darkroom kit, and find them totally unusable (well I CAN get the film on, provided I am in full light).

Maybe I shouldn't comment unless I have used a better reel of this type, but from my perspective the Samigon reels are almost trouble-free, provided they are dry - don't you think they are better for a beginner?

Randy

Cheap metal reels are worthless, as your experience shows. Hewes is a brand of EXPENSIVE metal reels. They're about $30 each. They're worth it. They load extremely easy and they're made of heavier, thicker wire so they're quite durable.

[mike rosenlof]

Not trying to discourage you, but cost is not usually the best reason to get into home processing. Consistency and control are. What will you do with negs after you have developed the film? Scan, print yourself, or have somebody else print? To comment on some of the follow-ups: A water bath is great for consistent termperature. If your space is normally cooler than you want your developing temperature, you can get a fairly inexpensive aquarium heater. I think stainless steel reels are the way to go. In 35mm, Hewes are great. I'm less fond of their film clip for 120. IMHO, don't get too hung up on developers, anything now available commercially is pretty good. If not, it's been gone from the marketplace for years. Pick something that you can find easily and worry about consistency and control more than trying some other variety of soup. Look at the datasheet for your fixer. They list capacity, usually in square inches or 8x10 equivalent. Keep count of how many rolls you process. Unless your volume is pretty high, mix about 2liters at a time and discard after about six months and you're probably fine.