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Originally Posted by ped
Interesting. How do you equate the f stops on a standard meter (f2-22) for the lens on the Polaroid?
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On the manual models the camera is marked as expected with the normal shutter and aperture markings. On the automatic models it's not so clear. I assume the large marks are 1 stop increments, but they could be half stop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ped
Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?
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Yep. I shoot a bunch and then find somewhere quiet (and not windy!) to sit down and peel the prints apart. I then let them dry for a few minutes otherwise they stick to each other.
A really good indicator I use is after you peel the print, it will start to curl slightly and then straighten out again as it dries. When it is flat it is dry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mooge
yeah I've heard about that "self termination" stuff as well but if that is the case then why does Fuji give us those temperature/time tables? there's also no mention of self-termination in the data sheets that Fuji have on their site (if I recall... maybe I'm wrong).
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Yep, I guarantee you it 100% self terminates. The chemical reaction still needs to happen and this is effected by the temperature of the print. The guide printed on the sleeve is the minimum development time. The longest I have waited to peel a print is about 15 minutes. I wouldn't wait much longer as the chemistry starts to dry on the print which leaves marks.
Just checked the datasheet and Fuji don't recommend longer than 8 minutes...
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If development times are shorter than specified or longer than 8 minutes, undesired photos may result.
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Hope that helps 