Fomapan 100

[JimL]

Hi,

I've just bought 100ft of Fomapan 100 and put it into my Watson loader.

This is the first time that I have used Foma film and I am intending to use D-76 and Rodinal. Any advice on development and EI would be great.

Thanks,

Jim

[dkapp]

I always use the Massive Dev Chart (http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html) as a starting point. They have fomapan 100 listed there w/ D70.

I haven't had any personal experience w/ that film yet. You'll have to let me know how you like it.

Dave

[Roman]

I like Foma 100 at EI 80 in Rodinal 1+50, 9:30 min.

Roman

[titrisol]

Foma 100 (120) is pretty awesome as EI80 in Rodinal 1+100 for 20 or 25 minutes

[JimL]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I might not get the time to try it for a couple of weeks but I'll let you know how I get on.

Jim.

[Roman]

Ooops, sorry, just edited my message - the 6:30 was a typo, should have been 9:30!!!

Roman

[JimL]

Thanks for the update Roman.
Is that time for enlarging or scanning? I only print in the darkroom and my enlarging set up gives quite low contrast so I prefer a little more contrast in my negatives. It makes it easier to give my prints the "impact" we all strive for. I don't always get it but I try!

[Roman]

That's for printing in a darkroom - and I have an enlarger with very soft light as well!

Roman

[JimL]

That should save me some testing. Thanks again.

Jim

[JimL]

Well, I finally got around to trying out the Fomapan and I'm impressed. Rodinal at 1:50 and 1:100 dilution gave sharp, crisp negatives that printed great. D-76 1+1 gives lovely prints with rich, creamy light tones and plenty of shadow detail. Well worth trying!

Thanks again guys for your help.

Jim.

[darkkavenger]

Maybe you can czech (er check) their site ;)

http://www.foma.cz/Upload/foma/prilohy/F_pan_100_en.pdf
this english sheet should tell you all you want to know. :)

I'm using foma chemicals and paper, great results! But i don't develop my films yet..

[JimL]

Thanks for the info.

I'm so impressed with Foma film I'm going to have to try their paper next!

[Roman]

Well, what a coincidence, I'm right at the moment taking a break from printing in my darkroom - and Foma papers are my most-used ones...

Fomaspeed Variant glossy is my 'quick'n'dirty' RC paper, for work prints, previews, mass prints for friends, etc. Actually, it is even good enough for 'serious stuff', though I like Agfa Multicontrast and Forte Polywarmtone even a bit more. The Foma Variant has better max density than Ilford MGIV (admittedly, I'm one of the few persons who does not like Ilford's finest at all...), but the same characteristic of compressing lighter tones a bit (good for dense, contrasty negs, like from pushed films, but you have to be careful to get brilliant prints wiht regular negs); the base is a bit thinner than other papers, and dry-down is also a bit stronger (so make your prints lighter than you would with other papers).

My favorite FOma paper, though, is Fomatone MG - a warm-tone paper that comes in both FB and RC versions; THE BEST paper for lith printing, very easy to work with, no pepper fogging, luscious reddish-orange highlights; but it is also great for 'regular' printing - not as warm a s Polywarmtone, you can even make it look neutral black with some developers (I use Tetenal Eukobrom for that); if developed in a warmtone dev. (like Agfa Neutol WA, which I use), it reacts very well to selenium or gold toning (better than Agfa MCC/MCP, but not as enthusiastically as Polywarmtone).

Haven't tried Fomabrom yet - though I might, since Forte Polygrade is hard to come by at the moment.

Roman

[lushd]

Hi - if it's of any help at all I have used this stuff and really like it. I have developed it in Rodinal, for 6.5 mins (I think, faulty memory may be playing here) at 1:25 dilution, exposed at 50 ISO. This gives a fantastically sharp image with a great range of tones and good shadow details. I moved on from this as I was put off by the amount of grain I was getting, although I know more dilution would help with that. After a bit of experimenting I have found that 3-5 mins in Aculux 2 gives a negative I really like if you expose at about 80 ISO. But it's all preferences and I only scan at the moment - this recipe makes the scanning easy by giving a relatively thin neg. I don't know what would happen if I tried chemical printing.

Donald

[PaulN]

Well, I finally got around to trying out the Fomapan and I'm impressed. Rodinal at 1:50 and 1:100 dilution gave sharp, crisp negatives that printed great. D-76 1+1 gives lovely prints with rich, creamy light tones and plenty of shadow detail. Well worth trying!

Thanks again guys for your help.

Jim.

Any chance that you can scan some prints/negatives and post some pictures? I'm still experimenting with the various types of film and would love to see your results.

[JimL]

Hi,

Paul, as I don't have a scanner I am unable to post any of my results. I can, however, give Foma 100 my unreserved recommendation. It is surprisingly sharp, fine grained and gives lovely tonality, especially skin tones. I like it as much as FP4+ and can think of no higher praise!.
Like Donald I have abandoned Rodinal because of the grain and now use D-76. EI 64/80 1+1 11 mins @ 20C. As stated above my enlarging set up gives quite low contrast so I tend to develop to slightly higher contrast than most people. I'd try starting about 9 mins.

I would be interested to know how you get on if you decide to try it.

Jim.