View Full Version : Struggling to finish a roll of 36 exposure
bwidjaja
03-09-2010, 13:18
Hope this is the right forum to ask.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again. I have shot both 35mm and MF. As I am only occasionally shooting on the evenings or weekends, many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
I tried different lengths of film and found that 24 frames is best for general purpose, for me.
sepiareverb
03-09-2010, 13:23
Get an ND filter? I like Fuji Pro 400H and will throw an ND filter on the lens to keep shooting regardless of the light.
Reloads aren't terrible with one of the metal tail pullers (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/86403-REG/General_Brand__35mm_Film_Leader_Retriever.html). Just a note on the cassette of how far to skip when you reload and a good enough memory to be sure the lens cap is on when you reload.
mervynyan
03-09-2010, 13:27
vote for option 2 for 35mm, different backs for MF.
Personally I just tend to finish off the roll if I'm nearish the end, I bracket a bit, and maybe shoot a few things I wouldn't otherwise. Or of course, get 24 exposure rolls, but if you're not developing yourself, I'm not sure of the economy of doing that.
Roger Hicks
03-09-2010, 13:28
Use the last few frames for experiments: crazy angles, how long can you hand-hold for, macro... Force ypurself to finish the roll. Generally works for me.
Cheers,
R.
Steve Bellayr
03-09-2010, 13:28
I use 24 exposures except with Neopan 1600 which is only available in 36 exposures. The other problem you will run into is having B&W film in the camera when now you want Color. The solution is to have 2 cameras of the same model. I know that this sounds expensive but look at it this way. If, like me, you use fixed lenses then you probably have several lenses for one camera. If that camera goes down then what?
I rarely use anything more than 24 exposure rolls for this reason ... I start to get very bored towards the end of a 36 exposure roll and tend to get wasteful to finish it off!
Perhaps I should get some 256mb cards for the M8? :D
robbeiflex
03-09-2010, 13:32
I am also fairly new to shooting film, and have recently switched to rolls of 24 exposures. It's faster to get through a roll and they are easier to handle if you develop them yourself. Also, although I recently bought an assortment of film in different speeds it seems I'm using up the ISO 400s faster then the others. To me this speed has a decent trade-off between grain and versatility if you combine it with an f/2 or faster lens and a fast body, for example a CV Bessa with its 1/2000 speed.
Leigh Youdale
03-09-2010, 13:35
many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
I think we've all had this problem. Things that help me deal with it are:-
1. Many great photographers of the past only used one film type. They probably missed some shots they would have liked to get because of that, but it IS possible to select (say) Tri-X or HP5+ or XP2 and use it exclusively - yes, work within the limitations.
2. I often use two bodies (with the same M-mount). If travelling I have colour in one and B&W in the other. Otherwise, because one body has great WA viewfinder frames and the other is more standard lens framed I use the same B&W film in each.
But that's not really necessary - I just happen to like using 25mm and 15mm lenses and most regular RF's don't go wider than 28mm. I do have accessory viewfinders that allow me to swap and use all the lenses on either camera regardless of the frame lines, but it's more about convenience and quickness to use two bodies. It's much easier to carry just one body and a couple of lenses in a pocket or small bag.
3. I find my photography gets a bit aimless and spasmodic if I don't have a project to work on. If I'm just wandering around looking for "shots" I seem to find few that I can be bothered taking. If, on the other hand I have a project with a subject and I'm trying to create a small collection or "body of work" around that subject then I find I get much more focussed and plan my outings much better. And some shots, whilst not competition winners, are still perfectly useable and contribute to a collection rather than having to be "knock-your-socks-off" images in their own right.
Use the last few frames for experiments: crazy angles, how long can you hand-hold for, macro...
Coffee cups on tables seems to be popular...or get a cat.;)
Change mid-film, 2nd body or ND filter - that's what I do, anyways.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again..
Fairly new? Why not start from scratch with one film. It would help if you processed your own as well. Using one film helps eliminate distraction of choice which can really stop you cold if you let it.
More info would have helped us help you better (processing, camera, color/bw, etc).
This is EASY.
I just rewind the film, leaving the leader out. Note the frame # on the film where it was last shot at, and then when you want to use that specific film again, you shoot through the frames with a lens cap on until you arrive at the noted frame. Easy. I do this all the time.
bwidjaja
03-09-2010, 14:36
Hi all, thanks for the input and suggestions. I think i will try to narrow down film selection to at least 1 B&W and 1 Color. Right now I am leaning to XP2 unless i can start self development. For color, I am going to try some slides before deciding on one.
Ducky, i just noticed that you are in Dallas area. Actually i took a film photography class in a community college to get access to the dark room. But I always seem to be busy during the lab open hour. So maybe you can show me self development at home...
coelacanth
03-09-2010, 14:49
I have several bodies with film loaded all the time, but most of them are b/w at 1600, some 400 & 3200 (use 4x ND filter to reduce the speed when needed), maybe one color.
I do what filmfan said all the time as well, although I have no problem finishing a 36 exp roll. When I need to empty the camera for servicing, checking something, or quickly do some testing done without opening a new roll, I rewind film with the leader out. Make sure you don't do this multiple times and know that your camera won't bent/damage the leader part too much.
Bob Michaels
03-09-2010, 15:12
Why is there some obligation to use film to the end of the roll? Film is about the cheapest part of photography. And that is without regard to if you process it yourself or have someone else do it for you.
Silva Lining
03-09-2010, 15:18
I develop my own, and though I don;t normally have too many problems finishing a roll (My two kids can be willing models :) ) I'll occasionally just remove the film if I've taken say 24-30 exposures, especially if I really need to use an alternative film...
Hi all, thanks for the input and suggestions. I think i will try to narrow down film selection to at least 1 B&W and 1 Color.
No. Just rewind the film with the leader out. Probably the simplest solution to the simplest problem.
ChrisPlatt
03-09-2010, 15:24
I too prefer to buy film in 24 exposure rolls for the same reasons mentioned here.
Chris
One of the reasons I enjoy shooting more digital is just this.
I cannot recall how many times I either had a roll of film developed with half of it still unused or I took multiple crap images just to finish it off so I could get it developed. I did the calculations and found that probably every good image I used cost me about $10 after accounting for film cost, developing cost and the negatives I threw away because they did not turn out well enough or because I used them up on "nothing" images just for the sake of finishing the roll.
I do now keep one film roll on the go in whatever is my current favorite film camera and am willing to leave it in the camerra till it is eventually all exposed - the main problem with this strategy being that I iwll oftne forget what type of film it is and its speed, so I still run the risk of losing some images.
Hope this is the right forum to ask.
I would say I am fairly "new" to film photography as I only recently started shooting film again. I have shot both 35mm and MF. As I am only occasionally shooting on the evenings or weekends, many times i am not able to finish a whole role of 36 exposures. And then the next time a photo opportunity comes along, I wish I had a different film (usually speed) in the camera. Question is:
1. Do I just need to standardize to 1 type of film and work within the limitation?
2. Have films in multiple bodies?
3. Other suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
No to the highlight - once you start your own development, experiment to find `your' preferred film.
regards,
CW
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
coelacanth
03-09-2010, 15:47
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
I'm using 5x7 and shooting 35 frames on a 36 exp. roll. (I can't find binder that can hold 10 6x7 shots though. :( )
I use one body per lighting condition, mainly one for overcast and one for contrast with shadows. Into these I load just what I want to shoot, usually 15 frames that load up quickly and good to the last frame thanks to my Bobinquick bulk loaders. I do this is because I like to shoot the roll, develop, and proof soon after shooting, and tailoring exposure and development of the film rolls to the lighting conditions makes for more satisfying printing.
Two rolls of 15 fit nicely on an 8x10 proof sheet.
xwhatsit
03-09-2010, 16:09
Well I just bought a Canon Demi (original, with the selenium meter) so I'm going to have even more trouble!
One of the reasons I use MF!
I don't take a lot of pictures- sometimes it takes me awhile to get through 10!
Like Film Fan and a few others have said, I have noted the frame number and wound film back into the cassette. I still do sometimes but I have also accidently double exposed a few rolls. Once some irreplaceable shots in Europe. Unless you are attached to a particular camera, a better way is own multiple bodies. At today's prices this doesn't have to be expensive. In addition to a few inexpensive fixed lense rangefinders, I have a few older manual Minolta SLR's, bought very cheaply on eBay. I know Minolta doesn't get a lot of respect, but most of the lenses are high quality and the cameras are very durable. If you want to experiment and have a lot of fun with different types of film, this is a good way to go.
Here's another option if you process your own B&W. Open up the camera back in your darkroom, cut the film and wind the exposed half onto your processing reel. Recut the leader on the unexposed side and you now have a a roll of homemade 15 or 20 exposure. This way you get to change films and you get to see your exposed shots a lot sooner.
Wow, guess I'm in the minority here... I have no problems finishing off 36 exposures
I'm with you..
I plan ahead so I can finish a 36 with no problem.. Sometimes the last few frames are the best...
KeithCostin
03-09-2010, 18:55
I've done that "leave the leader out" rewind trick a few times. It works, as long as you keep good notes!
scottwallick
03-09-2010, 19:02
Use the last few frames for experiments: crazy angles, how long can you hand-hold for, macro... Force ypurself to finish the roll. Generally works for me.
I agree with Roger. This always appealed to me since, well, I was makin' pictures.
Bob Michaels
03-09-2010, 19:11
A contrasting view:
I seldom finish a 36 exposure roll because when I get to close to 30 frames and there is a break in the action, I rewind and put in a new roll. I never want to find a subject and only have 1-2 frames left on the roll. My photo style is such that my photo ops disappear while I would be changing film. If I am shooting something that will wait, I won't be shooting 35mm. It will be MF.
While I burn a lot of film and edit out 96-98% of what I shoot, I don't feel like I have wasted many frames. I still can learn something from each reject even if it is only not to waste my time on that subject again.
I don't enjoy shooting 36-roll exposures for the most part, however, some of my garbage-shots-just-to-finish-the-roll shots have turned out decent :)
I'm going to start using 24x too. Main reason, I can't find a binder to hold a 36x negative page.. (6x6 rows).
Print File archival preservers 35-7 will hold 6 frame negs with 7 rows. I use the last row to insert a paper with negative information..
rdeleskie
03-09-2010, 19:37
24 is probably the ideal number of exposures for me. I tend to get impatient after that and want to see what I've done (the last dozen shots on a roll of 36 always seem to take the longest).
Having multiple cameras loaded with different kinds of film helps with the problem of matching the film stock to the lighting conditions/subject. I usually take two cameras with me when I'm specifically out to shoot: a full-sized rangefinder or SLR (shhh), and a compact (Contax TVS or Leica Minilux), one loaded with B&W (usually 400), the other with colour (ideally slower and/or slide film). I'll mix up the lens too (e.g., if I take the Minilux, I'll grab a 25 and 90 for my Bessa R3A; or put a fast 50 on the Bessa and take the TVS). I usually stick to my main camera, but I have the second in case something screams colour (or black and white as the case may be), or wide angle or whatever. The goal isn't to be covered for every situation, but to have creative options. One advantage to having rolls going in multiple cameras is that one of them is always getting close to the end, which mitigates my impatience somewhat.
Dave Wilkinson
03-10-2010, 00:01
One of the reasons I enjoy shooting more digital is just this.
I cannot recall how many times I either had a roll of film developed with half of it still unused or I took multiple crap images just to finish it off so I could get it developed. I did the calculations and found that probably every good image I used cost me about $10 after accounting for film cost, developing cost and the negatives I threw away because they did not turn out well enough or because I used them up on "nothing" images just for the sake of finishing the roll.
I do now keep one film roll on the go in whatever is my current favorite film camera and am willing to leave it in the camerra till it is eventually all exposed - the main problem with this strategy being that I iwll oftne forget what type of film it is and its speed, so I still run the risk of losing some images. My situation exactly!.....I sometimes have three or four cameras with part exposed film - and have forgotten what is on them!:D
36exp only, for me. For color I pay same $1 eq. to get roll developed no matter how many frames it has, same for self-processed B&W - time and water are same for 12, 24 and 36exp rolls.
Can't finish couple of frames? Shoot something you don't normally, try new combination of speed/dof, push lens to extreme, or make a self-portrait. I'd love rolls with 50 frames :)
24exp is a good film length for me, hence I load my own. I shoot one camera and one lens at the time. I think it's more fun that way.
Ronald M
03-10-2010, 02:44
I load from 100 foot rolls, 90% are 24 EXP, or 24 turns on the crank. Then i do a few 12`s and 36`s. I can cram 44 into the brass cassettes.
I advance to a clean frame, make note of the frames exposed and mark the film in a dark room on the clean frame. Rewind and develope just the amount I used.
My bench is marked with distances for different exposures and how long they should be.
Film requires your own darkroom.
oftheherd
03-10-2010, 04:05
This is EASY.
I just rewind the film, leaving the leader out. Note the frame # on the film where it was last shot at, and then when you want to use that specific film again, you shoot through the frames with a lens cap on until you arrive at the noted frame. Easy. I do this all the time.
Hard to believe it took 16 replies to get to this solution. I have done this often. Just remember to mark the canister that it is a partially exposed roll, and what frame you stopped on (don't rely on your memory or you will double expose things). Learn to always load your film to the same point, perhaps where the film leader ends, or whatever works for you. When you reload the film, leave the lens cap on, select the smallest aperture and the fastest shutter speed.
Works for me when I don't want to have two bodies with me.
Expanding a bit on what Filmfan and Oftheherd suggested;
When you want to remove a partialy exposed roll, first check the frame counter and note the number of exposed frames.
Rewind the film slowly until you hear a "click" which will be the sound of the film leader popping out of the takeup spool slot. At this point, the leader will be sticking out of the cassette two or three inches depending on the width of the camera you are using.
Stop rewinding and remove the film. Record on a slip of paper "exposed X. Start X+1 or X+2. Either put the paper inside the film cannister or secure to the roll with a rubber band.
When reloading the roll, make sure the lens or body is capped and advance to frame X+1 or X+2.
If you are using slide film be sure to tell the lab to visually check the film when cutting it because the registration will likely be off past the point of the original shots.
I've been doing this for over thirty years and it works very well.
Oh. and if you do accidentally wind the leader back into the cassette, you can get it out with a piece of Dymo Label tape.
If you're not sure how to do this lemme know and I'll explain it in detail.
shadowfox
03-10-2010, 05:34
I have a suspicion that the reason you're struggling is not technical.
Where are you in Dallas? (DFW Metroplex is a big place)
There's a couple of us here who likes to shoot film on weekends.
If you'd like to learn to develop film by yourself, I can show you. I'm writing the material for a film-photography workshop, so I'm not just pulling stuff out of the air :)
jsrockit
03-10-2010, 05:59
I'd say that if you struggle to finish 36 exposures, you need to rethink why you are photographing and what a good photograph is. Look at well known photographers work and go see some exhibits / a museum. That should help.
For some reason a roll of 36 will stay in my camera forever but I can pump through a roll of 24 in an hour. The quality of film matters too, for cheap film I will just bust through it.
bmasonoh
03-10-2010, 06:25
I usually go into it with the mentality that I'm going to finish the roll in one setting for the reasons you've mentioned. When I started shooting film I initially was more conservative with my trigger finger but if I know I'm going to finish the roll then I tend to find things I might not have originally shot.
Buy 100' roll and load your own. That way you can determine how many exposures per roll you want.
Best regards,
Bob
I have a suspicion that the reason you're struggling is not technical.
Where are you in Dallas? (DFW Metroplex is a big place)
There's a couple of us here who likes to shoot film on weekends.
If you'd like to learn to develop film by yourself, I can show you. I'm writing the material for a film-photography workshop, so I'm not just pulling stuff out of the air :)
Good thinking, Will, maybe some of us can plan a day once this &^*&^%# rain stops.
Good thinking, Will, maybe some of us can plan a day once this &^*&^%# rain stops.
rain isn't bad for taking pictures :) better than blazingly harsh sunlight? but that is better than complete darkness. Some say - there's no bad weather, just inappropriate dress.
shadowfox
03-11-2010, 06:56
Good thinking, Will, maybe some of us can plan a day once this &^*&^%# rain stops.
Couldn't agree more, George.
I'm going to call the folks at the NTFP flickr group (http://www.flickr.com/groups/dfw_metro_argosy/) and see if we can arrange a shoot day while the humidity is still low. I'll keep you posted.
David 11084
03-11-2010, 13:09
All very complicated and such angst and ingenuity! I simply load 36 exposure film (always B&W) and use it...always the same lens/body.
I don't claim any great success; but I'm happy.
David
I am shocked, shocked am I.
Only four posters mentioned multiple cameras. We're missing a great opportunity here.
"Honey (note gender neutral term), I've just figured out how to save money on film. I'll just buy another camera.":D:cool:
robert blu
03-12-2010, 01:50
I use 36 exposure films. When I have 5-6 frames left I finish the film just shooting in relax anything around me. Many times it happens thaty the best pictures in the film are the ones made just to finish the film! The power of being relaxed :)
robert
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