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gilpen123
01-19-2010, 00:59
I plan to use my 35s on an M3 and wonder what most of you with M3 are doing. Is it the 35 with goggles or the 35 bright line finder? I plan to use the finder as it seems easier to mount on and off than the 35 goggled. Also, it does not make the M3 any bulkier. Will the 35 finder be usable/applicable with the IIIf?

Benjamin
01-19-2010, 01:04
The brightline finder is bound to be brighter, putting more glass in front of the viewfinder is only going to give you a dimmer view.

I also can't think of any reason why you shouldn't be able to use the same finder with your IIIf.

Best of luck.

Austerby
01-19-2010, 01:26
Of course the crudest way is not to use either - use the M3 finder for focusing then make a best judgement for framing based on your experience of the 35mm fov. It won't work for precise framing of subjects but I've found it remarkably easy for eg street photos where the 35mm effectively becomes a "wide 50mm". You know where the centre of the image will be from looking through the viewfinder and therefore you allow a bit extra room around it and there's always cropping of the image available later to sort out mistakes.

Naturally, a viewfinder, goggles or an M2 are much better at the job with a 35mm but this technique can work well.

gilpen123
01-19-2010, 02:01
I actually have not tried using the whole M3 VF as my 35 frame. How is it in close shots? At times I want to bring only 1 camera and the 90 frame of M3 is very useful for me.

hans voralberg
01-19-2010, 02:07
Not very useful, but will do in a pinch. I really recommend getting a hot-shoe VF though.

SamStewart
01-19-2010, 02:50
i just put a little piece of duct tape over my frameline projector or whatever it is called. blocks out the frame lines and i just use the whole finder.

LeicaM3
01-19-2010, 03:16
It is very easy to estimate. Shoot a few rolls with a 35 on the M3 and you will have learned.
I have done it that way for over 20 years.

Actually, due to the superb VF, when I shoot shallow or low light, I grab the M3 over the M2/MP/M6 to use with a 35.

johannielscom
01-19-2010, 03:28
Of course the crudest way is not to use either - use the M3 finder for focusing then make a best judgement for framing based on your experience of the 35mm fov. It won't work for precise framing of subjects but I've found it remarkably easy for eg street photos where the 35mm effectively becomes a "wide 50mm". ...


I shoot the M3/35 combo like this all the time when shooting in the streets. I think outside the 50 frame as well, and anything outside the viewfinder is 'gefundenes fressen' ('found spoils'). Additional benefit: increased DOF and easier shooting when people walk up to or away from the camera.

If anything more adequate is required, I use an old Accura (Nikon-type) universal zoom viewfinder that covers all focal distances from 28 to 135.

gilpen123
01-19-2010, 03:43
I think I'll give it a try and see if I'll be happy with the result but I guess anything inside 2-3 meters may be difficult to get an acceptable frame.

Austerby
01-19-2010, 04:20
...I guess anything inside 2-3 meters may be difficult to get an acceptable frame.

Quite so - for anything close I imagine the goggles would be more accurate than a separate viewfinder. It all depends on what you're taking photographs of, but a little experimentation should show you which option is best for you. Rangefinder frame lines are never particularly precise anyway.

time
01-19-2010, 04:38
I use 35mm without any goggle-ting on it?
Why do you need that? Just use your imagination and experience to adjust the framing.

gilpen123
01-19-2010, 05:04
I imagine a headless portrait, half body lengthwise and rule of corners.....just joking. I'll definitely give it a try.

BTMarcais
01-19-2010, 07:22
One other thing to consider, if you're doing any shooting relatively close-up... with the goggled lenses, close focus is RF-coupled down to .65 meters.

-Brian

goodtimes
01-22-2010, 10:24
Sam your idea to block of the light illumitating the VF window is great.
Gotta try that. Thanks

payasam
01-22-2010, 10:34
Gil, for 17 years from 1985 I used an M3 with a permanently mounted SBLOO finder, which has a secondary dashed line to indicate field of view at near distances. In ten days or so I shall have another M3 with a 35mm finder: this time a Nikon finder as the SBLOO has become absurdly expensive.

MISH
01-22-2010, 12:35
this might not be the most popular reply around here ..... but I love my goggled 35 ...... works great for me and if you are buying Leica glass it is much cheaper than a ungoggled counterpart from that era..... plus makes the M3 even a better looking camera IMHO

gilpen123
01-23-2010, 01:37
Yes the SBLOO now is around $250-300. I just got an M6 so I can now use my 35s.

Gil, for 17 years from 1985 I used an M3 with a permanently mounted SBLOO finder, which has a secondary dashed line to indicate field of view at near distances. In ten days or so I shall have another M3 with a 35mm finder: this time a Nikon finder as the SBLOO has become absurdly expensive.

__hh
01-23-2010, 01:47
I actually have not tried using the whole M3 VF as my 35 frame. How is it in close shots? At times I want to bring only 1 camera and the 90 frame of M3 is very useful for me.

Gil,

I had the same dilemma as you :) I ended up ditching the M3 and got a .85x M6 w/ MP finder upgrade.


Hung

Rob-F
01-23-2010, 02:01
I have the 35mm Voigtlander finder. I use it with my IIIc, and it also works fine on my M3. It does slow you down a bit, having to go from the rangefinder to the separate accessory finder. If that is not a problem, then there is no problem.

gilpen123
01-23-2010, 02:20
Hung, I've been hunting for the M6 0.85 w/ MP finder upgrade for some time. I got the M6 LHSA Black Paint and will use my 1.25 magnifier for 90. If you go MP later on please do let me know if you plan to let go of it.

chrispiper
01-23-2010, 09:44
+1 for the goggles

I was in the same boat and decided to go with the goggled 35 Summaron f/2.8. For my style of shooting, going back and forth from a finder would be too slow. I was apprehensive of the bulk of the goggles, but really it's not that bad. Yes it is bigger than the lens by itself but it's not that much more. On the digital side I shoot a Canon 1D series so it's all relative. If you've shot a DSLR with a zoom there's no comparison - a M body with a 35 is tiny.

As for the finder being dimmer, perhaps, but frankly I don't even notice it. Don't let that scare you off. The close focusing is a nice bonus too as I like to get up tight.

I got a "bargain" grade lens at KEH and am very pleased. While I'd love a second M body to dedicate to 35, that will have to wait. For now, my M3 handles 35, 50 and 90 and I'm happy.

Chris

David Charlwood
01-23-2010, 11:26
I have a 35/f2 Summicron (#11108 / SAMWO) with goggles for my M3 - no problem at all - quick and easy. I certainly would not exchange the M3 for a M2 just to avoid the goggles. Hope this helps.:)