Rollei 35

[jsrockit]

Just bought one of these... anyone a fan here? Which flash are you using with it if you are using a flash?

[petronius]

I´m a fan; no flash for my Rollei 35!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_dOwuInT_GLk/STRRidmzLWI/AAAAAAAAEEc/OOhKMUdZpog/s1600/Unbenannt-7.jpg

[Sonny Boy Havidson]

I am too! Now that my Tessar one is dead, I just bought a 35 SE that is on its way to CLA as these cameras (deserve it and) tend to suffer from wrong slow speeds.

It just tend to enjoy this camera more than my Leica III f.

[Phantomas]

I'm a fan too. Got a made in Germany one that needs fixin (shutter). When it works it's a great camera with nice lenses. Take-everywhere camera with style.
No flash for me either.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3548/3388832610_4893eff843.jpg

[SteveM]

I've had my Rollei 35 SE since new in 1984 and it's never let me down. The light meter has been accurate enough for slides, and the portability make it an easy camera to take anywhere. I guess it's come through long use of this camera that I've grown used to 40mm in preference to either 35 or 50mm. With regard to flash, I have used it with my Vivitar 283, but it is very awkward - flash with small camera attached. It works, but this is not a good camera ergonomically to use with flash.

Steve

[Brian Sweeney]

I have the 35TE with the Tessar. The lens is sharp and contrasty. Hard to find the battery, I need to make up something. The only thing that drives me crazy is how the lens collapses. Advance the film, press the release, then collapse the lens.

I tend to favor my Leica CL with a Nikkor 5cm f2 or Canon 50/1.5 on it.

[micromontenegro]

Mine work all the time! The only flash that makes sense (IMHO) is Rollei's own 100 XLC- almost all others are bigger than the camera itself.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll309/micromontenegro/Rollei-35s.jpg

[Walt G]

I've had various models over the years, right now I use a 35B.
@micromontenegro: I never heard of the "C", what is that? A "B" without meter?

Anyone know where to find lens caps and hoods for the 3.5 lens? (24mm I think)

[chikne]

What you need is a Vivitar 285

[Al Kaplan]

The first "real camera" that I bought for my son was a Rollei 35. Within a year or so he'd talked me into getting him a Leica CL, 90mm Elmar-C, and a 21mm Cosina Voigtlander lens. The stuff mostly sits unused these days while he and his wife shoot digital.

My pick for a versatile flash for smaller cameras is the Vivitar 2500. It looks just like a miniature 285, complete with tilt, zoom head, uses two AA cells, has two auto ranges plus manual, both a hot foot and a standard Vivitar synch cord socket. A flip-up ultra wide adapter was made for it but finding one now might be a problem. A few companies make diffusers to fit.

http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com

[michaelbialecki]

I used a Rollei 35 for a couple of years...it was my only camera at that time....I took it with me to Europe on a backpacking trip for a year...it never failed me...I also got published for the first time with that camera (magazines in America, Brazil and Germany)....that camera taught me a lot about photography.....I also have the Rollei flash that came with it....I had an original "hard plastic" hood for it, but it broke because of user error...I ended up finding a rollei rubber hood for it later on.....sadly, it hasnt seen much use in about 10-11 years....it is sitting somewhere in my parents house.....I also have an original yellow filter for it that I would use for Black and White...lovely camera indeed

Dublin, Ireland
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2416/2232329250_cdf22b1748_b.jpg

cheers, michael

[micromontenegro]

I've had various models over the years, right now I use a 35B.
@micromontenegro: I never heard of the "C", what is that? A "B" without meter?


Yep, thre rarest "normal" 35.

[jsrockit]

Oops, I meant specifically small rollei flashes. Which is the smallest and best fit for the 35?

[Al Kaplan]

The smallest best fit is the teensy Rollei flash but you really need to hold the camera upside down because the camera is designed with the flash shoe on the bottom. Otherwise the shadow over peoples' heads looks strange. I think that the one I had was a 15-B. That was a long time ago!

[jsrockit]

I won't be making photos of people that much and I won't be using the flash all of the time. However, there are multiple rollei flashes... not just one.

[coelacanth]

I'm a fan although mine broke and went to a new home. (RFF member intends to fix it)

I'll be getting another one when the timing is right.

Rollei 35 (German Tessar), hand held, dark bar, no flash
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3198/2944080454_df72db31c3.jpg

[micromontenegro]

Oops, I meant specifically small rollei flashes. Which is the smallest and best fit for the 35?

Take your time, read. Maybe you will find the answer around post number 7

:rolleyes:

[jsrockit]

Take your time, read. Maybe you will find the answer around post number 7

:rolleyes:

Yes, that is ONE option... there are a few others. I am sorry if my question is so annoying that you have to roll your eyes, but I want to hear from others who have used a few different rollei flashes. Is that ok sir? Are you really that upset that I didn't take your suggestion as gospel?

[FrankS]

i have a couple of small rollei flash units that seem to be made for the rollei. one is fully manual, the other is a thyristor type with an auto setting that makes life easier.

rollei models:
35 - original made in germany, tessar lens f3.5
35t, 35s -meter needle on top deck, tessar f3.5 and sonnar f2.8 lenses
35te, 35se - meter led's in viewfinder, tessar and sonnar
35b - cheaper triotar lens and cheaper more plastic internals
35c - like b with no meter?
some more expensive classic and fancy metal finished and commemorative models

[micromontenegro]

Yes, that is ONE option... there are a few others. I am sorry if my question is so annoying that you have to roll your eyes, but I want to hear from others who have used a few different rollei flashes. Is that ok sir? Are you really that upset that I didn't take your suggestion as gospel?

Nope, that is not an option, that is the answer to your question. If you chosse to ignore it, tant pis pour vous. I just though you were asking :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: :rolleyes::rolleyes:

[Tin]

I used to use the Braun 17B flash on the Rollei 35 as well as other small cameras, if you can find a working sample. There were two version---one manual only and one was automatic. I don' remember the model number of the automatic version though. Perhaps it was called 17BC.

[David Murphy]

I like them. I now own a 35S (Singapore-made), but I've also owned the 35T - both are fine cameras and you can carry them in your pocket. The Sonnar is as sharp as any lens in its focal length class - very impressive.

Some tips: Read the manual carefully -- these are not K1000's. Be sure to pay attention to the film loading process exactly and to remember to cock the shutter before trying to collapse the lens. Most particularly one should thread the film leader all the way through both slits of the take-up spool as shown in the manual.

These cameras are easy and fast to repair (by techs that is) and the meters can be recalibrated to accept alkaline cells (or just blow off the meter). Here's some stuff from my Sonnar using color print film:

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-06.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-07.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-11.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-12.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-14.jpg
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/Untitled-Scanned-17.jpg

Here's one from the Tessar model I used to own using Agfa 400 color print film (as best as I recall):

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss218/wanchaiboy2/rff3/ScanImage7red.jpg

Here's a link to a manual:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rollei_35/rollie_35/rollie_35-true-htm_page1.htm

[Renzsu]

Thanks for that link to the manual, I've had some issues with the shutter being cocked, I wasn't used to that so I wondered if I broke it. I just need to get a cell for it..

One question, my lens has some play in it when I extract it.. is that normal or is it supposed to be very rigid?

[Jaans]

Could anyone tell me what the difference is between the Tessar lens and the Sonnar lens?

How do they render black and white especially. Which lens can procure more shadow detail? Which is more contrasty? etc

Thanks in advance>

[Al Kaplan]

The Tessar is a three group four element design, and has less reflective surfaces inside, so it tends to be more contrasty than the more complicated Sonnar design with more elements and internal surfaces. But things aren't that simple! The reflectivity of the diaphragm blades can affect contrast, as well as whether a lens is uncoated, single coated, or multi-coated.

If you want shadow detail then you must expose for the shadows. There's no free ride here! Without that minimum exposure there'll be no picture! The problem is really one of how well the lens can handle highlight detail without blocking up the highlight areas.

"Contrast" consists of two things: overall contrast and micro contrast. You can have just the right relationship between the light and dark AREAS in your photograph while one lens will clearly render the texture of the threads in a fabric while another lens won't. This isn't a matter of resolution. The lens with lower micro contrast might, and often does, have the higher resolution.

http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com

[jsrockit]

i have a couple of small rollei flash units that seem to be made for the rollei. one is fully manual, the other is a thyristor type with an auto setting that makes life easier.



Which model works best in your opinion?

[FrankS]

definitely the auto thyristor one. the rollei unit model is 121bc but there are tons of similar small 3rd party and other camera make flash units available. the rollei unit offers no special functionality that others don't have. look for a small unit with an auto setting. (one or 2 f-stops)

btw, if anyone has an unused konica hexar af hx-14 flash, please contact me.

[D.O'K.]

Great cameras.

For flash, consider an Olympus T-20 unit or similar. Although this renders the camera much bulkier, it juts forward from underneath and thereby doubles as a really excellent grip for the left hand!

Indeed barring a tripod this is the most stable hold I know of for the camera (although ironically it confers no advantage, given that when flash is used camera shake isn't a problem).

Another minor benefit of the eccentric under-camera flash position is that, if one is taking pictures of people wearing hats, their eyes don't come out in shadow...

Regards,
D.

[David Murphy]

The Tessar is a three group four element design, and has less reflective surfaces inside, so it tends to be more contrasty than the more complicated Sonnar design with more elements and internal surfaces. But things aren't that simple! The reflectivity of the diaphragm blades can affect contrast, as well as whether a lens is uncoated, single coated, or multi-coated.

If you want shadow detail then you must expose for the shadows. There's no free ride here! Without that minimum exposure there'll be no picture! The problem is really one of how well the lens can handle highlight detail without blocking up the highlight areas.

"Contrast" consists of two things: overall contrast and micro contrast. You can have just the right relationship between the light and dark AREAS in your photograph while one lens will clearly render the texture of the threads in a fabric while another lens won't. This isn't a matter of resolution. The lens with lower micro contrast might, and often does, have the higher resolution.

http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com

The Sonnar is also one stop faster than the Tessar - handy for available light. While the Sonnar is definitely sharper especially at faster f-stop settings, the Tessar is an entirely capable lens and makes nice pastel-like "impressionistic looking" images with good contrast and color. Tessar models are less expensive too. Some prefer the Tessar, I like both!

[David Murphy]

Thanks for that link to the manual, I've had some issues with the shutter being cocked, I wasn't used to that so I wondered if I broke it. I just need to get a cell for it..

One question, my lens has some play in it when I extract it.. is that normal or is it supposed to be very rigid?
One retracts the lens (from a perspective of facing the camera) and turns the lens clockwise to lock it. It should be well-defined in position with very little play at that point. If it is not, it needs adjustment. I pay $50-65 to have a Rollei 35 serviced (I get discounts) and it is well-worth if you want a solid one. This includes a meter recalibration to use alkaline cells.

[iamzip]

I have a couple small Rollei flashes, I think I have the 121BC and the Beta 2. I've also got a small Voightlaender that was meant for their 110 camera.Check out www.rolleiclub.com, they have a pretty good listing.

Phantomas, what is wrong with the shutter? I purchased one off eBay, and the shutter would sometimes close completely but bounce back open a little. I opened it up, and found that the spring which snapped it shut had broken. Replaced it with a spring I made from a guitar string. Not the easiest thing, but if you're mechanically inclined, it's doable.

[Renzsu]

One retracts the lens (from a perspective of facing the camera) and turns the lens clockwise to lock it. It should be well-defined in position with very little play at that point. If it is not, it needs adjustment. I pay $50-65 to have a Rollei 35 serviced (I get discounts) and it is well-worth if you want a solid one. This includes a meter recalibration to use alkaline cells.

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot tonight.

[kkdanamatt]

[quote=coelacanth;1189660]I'm a fan although mine broke and went to a new home. (RFF member intends to fix it)

I'll be getting another one when the timing is right.


I just received your (now mine) German Rollei 35. The condition was not what I had expected. It's much better! I was also pleasantly surprised that the distance scale is marked in feet, rather than in meters. Thank you.
It's now at the Rollei "hospital"...a long time friend of mine was trained at the Rollei Factory in Braunschweig and he's repairing the film advance lever. I plan to use a regular PX625 battery because the Rollei technician said that he can adjust the meter to compensate for the difference in battery voltage between 1.35v. and 1.5v.
Does anyone know whether this light meter adjustment is a wise thing to do? He hasn't yet performed the tweaking of the light meter. I don't plan to shoot slide film, so readings within a 1/2 stop are fine.

[FrankS]

sounds like a good idea to me.

[Jaans]

The Tessar is a three group four element design, and has less reflective surfaces inside, so it tends to be more contrasty than the more complicated Sonnar design with more elements and internal surfaces. But things aren't that simple! The reflectivity of the diaphragm blades can affect contrast, as well as whether a lens is uncoated, single coated, or multi-coated.

If you want shadow detail then you must expose for the shadows. There's no free ride here! Without that minimum exposure there'll be no picture! The problem is really one of how well the lens can handle highlight detail without blocking up the highlight areas.

"Contrast" consists of two things: overall contrast and micro contrast. You can have just the right relationship between the light and dark AREAS in your photograph while one lens will clearly render the texture of the threads in a fabric while another lens won't. This isn't a matter of resolution. The lens with lower micro contrast might, and often does, have the higher resolution.

http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com

Thanks Al for that detailed insight into both of those lens. I often find myself gawking and wondering about the cool retro design of that camera.

Cheers,
Jaans

[easyrider]

Oops, I meant specifically small rollei flashes. Which is the smallest and best fit for the 35?

I have one of the original 35s. Bought in Germany in 1969. Still works. I brought if to the last RFF meeting.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26287055@N02/

I use the flash off the camera with a sync cord. A little awkward sometime but the small packages is easy to carry and works well. The flash is an old Braun.

[jsrockit]

I have one of the original 35s. .

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26287055@N02/



These are from the Rollei? They look much more "modern" and clear than many other Rollei pics I've seen.

[Silver4ever]

I love my Rollei 35S! Actually, I have two: Kodachrome 64 goes into one, Agfa APX 100 in the other. I usually carry them in a fanny pack while commuting by bicycle or cycling for pleasure. These are great manually operated cameras with fantastic optics, and they also accept filters!

Although I don't use them with flash very often, I have a Vivitar 252 unit which nicely complements the size of the Rollei 35. (They are great for fill flash, too, because of their leaf shutters.)

I didn't know how attached I had become to the little Rolleis until last weekend when I was using my Leica M2 and instinctively began flailing the air with my left thumb to advance the film!:eek:

Here's a photo I made on Kodachrome 64 last September while cycling:

http://www.kodachromeproject.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=91

[FrankS]

These are from the Rollei? They look much more "modern" and clear than many other Rollei pics I've seen.

not sure what rollei pics you've seen, but a good rollei35 is capable of quality indistinguishable from leica, imo.

[Rob-F]

OK you guys are going to get me back to thinking about the Rollei 35, just when that bit of GAS had gone into remission. I have been interested off and on since I bought a copy of Stephen Shore's book of pictures photographed entirely with a Rollei 35.

It does have its drawbacks. Left-hended wind. A system of exposure measurement and setting that one fellow described as a "dog and pony act." Takes a battery you can't get anymore, necessitating a conversion.

Still . . . it's so appealingly small, and just plain cute!

[batterytypehah!]

Takes a battery you can't get anymore, necessitating a conversion.

You could always go for the B model. I just bought reala_fan's and I'm surprised how useful that tiny selenium cell is. Except in low light, of course, but I think all Rollei 35s are best used for daylight shooting.

The Triotar models don't get the respect, but in fact they are surprisingly less quirky than the Tessar and Sonnar. Conventional speed and aperture rings, lens lock and frame counter in more intuitive spots. But, yes, you still wind left-handed. I got used to that very quickly, although it does make one-handed operation impossible. I never bother with a flash.

[Walt G]

The Triotar models don't get the respect,..

The Triotar of the 35B is fine for me.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74916&d=1258510213

74916

[ZeissFan]

The B, C and LED models have the Carl Zeiss Triotar -- a triplet. It's a decent lens but not as good as the Tessar or Sonnar.

Also, I've found those models with the Triotar to have way too much plastic in their construction.

[ZeissFan]

Walt. Nice photo.

[easyrider]

These are from the Rollei? They look much more "modern" and clear than many other Rollei pics I've seen.


Yes. My Rollei 35 f3.5 Tessar. The developer store did the scans and they have a bit of dust.

The lens has always been ultra sharp. Bought new in 1969. Never been in a repair shop. Used heavily when my kids were small. Has a few dents in it.

[naql]

I have 4 Rollei 35s: 2 Rollei 35 S (one with a broken meter), a Rollei 35, and a Rollei 35 B. I use my good Rollei 35 S the most now but for the longest time I used the classic Rollei 35 all the time. They are great cameras and have a nice solid feel except for the B because it is mostly plastic.

I found the hardest thing to get used to is scale focusing but you get the hang of it after a while.

Also as far as batteries go I use Wein MRB625 Zinc Air batteries in mine so I don't have to get the meters calibrated for alkalines. I got them from B&H here: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html

[Mablo]

Bought a Rollei 35 T for a travel camera. Found it at the local repair shop, nicely CLA'd and battery calibrated etc. 6 months warranty too.

I hastily shot a test roll and when I look at the photos I am flabbergasted. My photos are tack sharp!

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4303959115_78e955fab5.jpg

[Vincenzo Maielli]

I always liked the Rollei 35 concept, but only recently i have bought a very mint Rollei 35S; irreparably, i felt in love!
I think that any little flash work with the Rollei 35 cameras.
Ciao.
Vincenzo

[leicapixie]

Own one. Slightly smaller model, due to numerous falls. No battery reqd. as meter in-operative, no proper slow speeds. Black paint still reasonable. Using it more and more, with my Digital Point and shoots..Very sharp images, sometimes excessive contrast! That's the Tessar.Great camera, a gift from my late Dad.

[Jack Conrad]

Mmmm, tasty...
The Rollei 35 has to be among the best looking camera's ever.
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac358/jackconrad/Cameras/dcf57a44-1.jpg