Multiexposure!

[ulrich.von.lich]

Hello everyone,

I really like the concept of multiexposure. When being used properly, the results can be interesting.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thegroundabove/3508875417/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chamoz/2493555912/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tony_haupt/3197787570/
..

But I have noticed it's often a feature of the cheapest cameras. My $20 Holga has it. None of my expansive 35mm SLRs has it. Why?

And if light hits the same part of the film many times, would it be the same as hitting the part once with cumulated time?

Ex: exposing a film to the light source 3 times, 5 seconds each time. & exposing the film to the same light source, 1 time only, 15 seconds.

I tried emerging a few photos with digital and some parts of the final frame were totally blown out. I guess it's the reciprocity failure who is helping here.

I appreciate your thoughts!

Best Regards,
Tony

[sojournerphoto]

Film's highlight behaviour means it's more forgiving than digital. You might try using overlapping layers in photoshop and screen blending mode. You can also use masks or the blending options to pull back the highlights.

Here are a couple I've been playing with by overlapping the frames to shoot a panorama. Both shot with Voiglander R4m (I think) and Biogon 25 2.8 on Portra 160VC. I've got a couple of prints that are 10 inches high and pretty wide:)

Mike

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2624/3882872072_a2301c31f7_o.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3480/3882872282_4ae24029e4_b.jpg

[rya]

With film, yes: you can roughly add up exposures to equal one full exposure. With a loss of contrast you could also just stack negatives.

With digital I would be inclined to take proper exposures and layer in photoshop (or gimp, etc).

Edit: Stack negatives in the darkroom.

[Wahoo]

Maybe not quite what you're looking for but here's an old'n - I call it ' Village of the Damned ' :)

PS Notice the old Standard Vanguard and the bus ?


http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q26/Erewhon_Man/7b001c31.jpg

[sojournerphoto]

Maybe not quite what you're looking for but here's an old'n - I call it ' Village of the Damned ' :)

PS Notice the old Standard Vanguard and the bus ?


http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q26/Erewhon_Man/7b001c31.jpg


Excellent and a John Wynham reference

Mike

[Seeker]

The Nikon FM had multiple exposure (I found out by mistake, very subtle button!). Not sure about the subsequent FMs

[Keith]

I prefer to do multi exposures with the camera on a tripod shooting a set scene ... then move key elements around in between exposures. Often up to three exposures!

This tends to give a ghostly effect to the objects or person who is changing position.

My Bronica RF645 is an ideal camera for this sort of thing. This is a triple self portrait I did a while ago.


http://wheelie52.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p234616839.jpg

[valdas]

All my Contax SLR cameras have it, but not Leica RF... Sure, you always can do it in PS, but it's different, you don't have that unexpected result. I know some people doing an interesting "double exposure" project - shooting in one part of the world and sending unprocessed film to friends to the other part of the world to shoot the same film second time. Then you develop and see what you get...

[pevelg]

http://wheelie52.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p234616839.jpg

Great image. How did you expose for this?

[uhligfd]

The Nikon film cameras, TLRs etc etc all have (had) multiple exposure capabilities. In digital, it makes little sense to include on camera because you can so easily do this by editing/merging files on the computer.

[Gumby]

None of my expansive 35mm SLRs has it. Why?


Why, you ask... because you have the wrong SLRs for that application. You need to go shopping!

[pevelg]

Bummer, my first multi-exposure attempt is quite inadequate!!!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2662/3933308844_11fdef38cf_b.jpg

[David William White]

Hello everyone,

But I have noticed it's often a feature of the cheapest cameras. My $20 Holga has it. None of my expansive 35mm SLRs has it. Why?



Some SLR's have a handy transport release lever so you can cock the shutter without winding on...but...you can always use the transport release button on the bottom (used normally for rewinding) to accomplish the same thing. So any camera that has a release for manually rewinding can do multiple exposures.

One effect that Freeman Patterson was really good at was circular swirling of flower beds. He'd do 10 exposures (rating 100iso at 1000), rotating the camera about the optic axis.

[urban_alchemist]

Just playing around: Hasselblad 503CW (quite a complicated procedure, but still doable)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2731455405_166a80521e_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3270/2624589675_46d2ea8e33_o.jpg

[Wahoo]

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h18/Ray_Tube/img910-1-2.jpg

[chilohm]

For me, it's all about strong angles.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/3130771984_650e505fb6.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3130768720_59f9157795.jpg

[rxmd]

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/downscaled_F1010006.jpg (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=77856&ppuser=4985)

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/downscaled_F1000028.jpg
(http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=84461&ppuser=4985)

First one taken with a Kiev 4AM, second with a Canon T90.

My Leica has multiple-exposure capability. So does the Kiev (the 4AM does, the 1948 doesn't), but with the Kiev it's tricky as it only works at the end of a roll and may trash the perforation. In SLRs both my "expensive" SLRs have it (Nikon F2, Canon T90), the medium-end AE-1 doesn't, at least not reliable. However I find I'm not using it all that often, I find it difficult to get predictable outcomes.

[Krzys]

With a canon-ae1 (and most cameras) push in the button on the bottom plate for rewinding when you advance. The film should stay stationary while you cock the shutter.

[rxmd]

With a canon-ae1 (and most cameras) push in the button on the bottom plate for rewinding when you advance. The film should stay stationary while you cock the shutter.

On the Canon AE-1 in particular (at least the AE-1P) it doesn't work that easily. In order for it to work, you have to wind up the film inside the canister first so that it doesn't have slack. Then press the rewind button. The film may still move a little. You can either hold it back with the rewind crank, or watch the rewind crank how much it moves and wind it back slightly. Registration will not be perfect, frames may be off a little, and if you hand the film to a lab with an automatic processor the different registration may throw off the cutter so that it hacks through some negatives. BTDT, I've had this happen several times.

[icebear]

Also with a Leica M it works - wasn't my intention though ;)

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=96463&ppuser=6650
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/Guggenheimx2.jpgGuggenheim, multi exposure

[rxmd]

Regarding double exposure at the end of the roll: with the Leicas I find that the wind mechanism tends to tear the film off the spool in the canister. The old Kiev does, too, the 1980s 4AM doesn't. I used this a couple of times to get multiple exposures, but it's not that reliable:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/Angle.jpg (http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=115750&ppuser=4985)

The only Leica where mid-roll double exposure works for me is the M5.